Winterization Video

[MDuncan]

Here is a video to help show you how to winterize your Oliver Travel Trailer. Note there are two valve configurations depending on the year model that can be seen at the 27 sec and 35 sec time frames in the video. Hope this helps!

 

 

[Spike]

Thank you, Matt and John, for this helpful video. I hope that someone can answer this question.

 

We are the proud owners of a 2017 Elite II and live in SE Arizona where we don't experience many hard freezes. I have read posts from other Oliver owners that suggest that one can keep the water from freezing in the trailer's plumbing by keeping the interior warm (someone suggested setting the thermostat at 40 degrees) and opening some of the hatches (under the twin beds and/or dinette seats, for example) when expecting a freeze. This is, so far, what we are planning to do, but I am hoping to get confirmation that doing so will suffice to protect all the plumbing.

 

I would like to know whether you can confirm that this process is sufficient. I would also appreciate receiving any additional suggestions for protecting our Ollie’s plumbing. Thank you.

 

--Jeff

[MDuncan]

Jeff,

 

I'm not the one to accurately answer this question but I will ask and either update here or have someone with more expertise answer this.

[Mike and Carol]

Thank you, Matt and John, for this helpful video. I hope that someone can answer this question. We are the proud owners of a 2017 Elite II and live in SE Arizona where we don’t experience many hard freezes. I have read posts from other Oliver owners that suggest that one can keep the water from freezing in the trailer’s plumbing by keeping the interior warm (someone suggested setting the thermostat at 40 degrees) and opening some of the hatches (under the twin beds and/or dinette seats, for example) when expecting a freeze. This is, so far, what we are planning to do, but I am hoping to get confirmation that doing so will suffice to protect all the plumbing. I would like to know whether you can confirm that this process is sufficient. I would also appreciate receiving any additional suggestions for protecting our Ollie’s plumbing. Thank you. –Jeff

Jeff, having lived in Sierra Vista for years I know the lowest temps you will get are about like what we experience here in San Antonio. On those days it gets below freezing, even into the mid to low 20s, I just turn on a small space heater and open the hatches under the rear dinette and beds. It usually gets above freezing during daylight hours.

 

We like to be ready to go year round and since the south Texas weather isn’t severe we can safely skip winterizing. If I was back in Sierra Vista I would do the same thing. Mike

[Spike]

Thanks, Mike. I know that you are familiar with the winters here in SE AZ. Good to know that you think we'll be ok with just heating the interior when we expect some freezing. I can remember only one or two days--from living around here for about 30 years (where does the time go?)--of the temperature staying below 32 degrees during the day. We will, however, be relying on the gas furnace, I think, to keep it warm; as of now, we don't have a way to hook Ollie up to shore power. Since we took possession of our Ollie in June and live in this area, we haven't yet checked the efficiency of that furnace. We'll be taking a trip soon, when we may get a chance to see if it actually functions. I appreciate your input--always.

[Spike]

Jeff, I’m not the one to accurately answer this question but I will ask and either update here or have someone with more expertise answer this.

Thanks, Matt!

 

 

[ScubaRx]

...Jeff, having lived in Sierra Vista for years I know the lowest temps you will get are about like what we experience here in San Antonio. On those days it gets below freezing, even into the mid to low 20s, I just turn on a small space heater and open the hatches under the rear dinette and beds. It usually gets above freezing during daylight hours. We like to be ready to go year round and since the south Texas weather isn’t severe we can safely skip winterizing. If I was back in Sierra Vista I would do the same thing. Mike

 

Yep...

[Foy_Mirna]

Thank you Mat and John,

 

Videos like this make a big difference in understanding care and maintenance for our travel trailers.  While delivery-day orientation and the manual are great tools, it is seeing the steps in order that really help, especially for items that are done infrequently.  A suggestion, if I might. Just as many of us have a checklist for arrival and departure, it would be helpful to have a care and maintenance matrix based on model, mileage traveled, months and conditions that references these type videos.  While I am sure I can dig through the manual and ask other owners here in the forum, having a matrix for quick reference and recording care and maintenance becomes a value tool for original and future owners.

[MDuncan]

I was thinking there was a quick reference made at one point for care and maintenance, but not 100% if it has been updated according the model/year. I'll double check and have the team put something together. We are working on an entire "how-to" video series that will include everything covered at delivery, plus frequently asked questions. We will try to have these done within the month. We have shot several videos, but have not had time to cut/edit them. We will be adding them to our Youtube channel as we complete them.

 

The team is also working on a new "ticketing" system for service/warranty issues so we can track any issues our customers may have. It will allow owners to submit issues, view the status and allow our management team a better understanding of manpower needs. Our forum here is a great tool to learn from our customers and make our trailers better, but we don't always have a lot of time to read through all the posts. The ticketing system will be just a better way of handling our service/warranty needs of our customer with quicker response times. We hope to get the ticketing system live within the next few weeks. Included in the ticketing system will be a knowledge base of frequently asked questions & answers that we can build upon as "service & support" tickets are completed.

 

Hope everyone has a great weekend!

[donthompson]

Matt, thanks for the update. I didn't comment on my service issues because I'm convinced the shortcomings are the result of growing pains, not a lack of commitment to servicing customers. I'm very encouraged by your comments/report. Oliver Travel Trailers is a great company, has great employees, builds outstanding campers and now appears to be on track to manage the extraordinary growth it's experiencing. Please pass along my appreciation to everyone involved and keep the members of the forum informed of how this process evolves.

 

Don

[MDuncan]

I will post about the new ticketing system when it is ready to go live. I'll also probably email all owners with more information as well.

 

Thank you everyone for your patience while we get the systems in place.

[MDuncan]

Care and Maintenance Checklist... I was wrong. We did a Setup checklist and Pre-Travel checklist but not one for maintenance.

 

The current owner's manual has a section for care and maintenance that I have extracted and can be viewed below.

 

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Checklist/Care-and-Maintenance.pdf

 

We will make something more formal if needed.

[geO]

Being that I'm a visual learner I really appreciate "how to" videos. Can you guys show how to lube theVIP 3000 POWER JACK? The instructions in the manual are unclear to me.

 

thanks George

[topgun2]

Matt -

 

Instead of just doing a video on lubing a jack, how about a general lube video.  This might include the jacks, the EZ Flex suspension system, doors, waste valves, Bull Dog hitch, hinge mechanism on the Maxx Air Fan, window slides, etc.

 

Bill

[Commanche]

And don't forget the mechanism where the crank handle fits in to extend the awning. Mine was making a loud noise and a little shot of WD40, actually I used a lube spray they use for garage doors. It quieted right down.

 

Stan

[MDuncan]

Thank you all for the input.

 

We will be posting all types on Maintenance & Care videos along with our How-To video series that will be more on the general features of our travel trailers. We will be posting them as we get them and hope to have most done within the next month or so.

[Buzzy]

Matt,

 

Thank you for the video on winterizing.  It is that time of the year, here in New Hampshire, when I need to consider winterizing Ollie.  Upon review of the video, and a comparison with my notes from last year, I do have one question.

 

Last year I performed one additional step.  I removed the strainer bowl on the inlet side of the water pump, emptied water from the bowl, cleaned any debris from the metal screen, and reinstalled.  At the time, I did not notice the replacement of water with RV antifreeze within the bowl.  I assumed the bowl might freeze.  This past spring all was good from my winterizing and I assumed my actions did no harm.  Was that an unnecessary step in the process?

 

Thank you,

 

Buzzy

[John E Davies]

Good video but I have some comments.

 

Draining the standard water heater: relieve the pressure at the valve, then close it again. This traps air so the water does not gush out all over your legs when you remove the anode. Then step away and open the valve for a full drain. Using a flush wand, flush the sediment from the heater, (then blow out any residual water if you have compressed air), then reinstall the anode (or a new one). Close the pressure valve.

 

Partial winterization: the vulnerable parts of any RV plumbing system are the ones that penetrate or are very close to the outside of the hull. Instead of pumping (undrinkable) antifreeze into all the service ports, use compressed air and a blowout fitting to blow the water out. Include the outside shower in this process. This way you can keep the fresh tank full and the system functional, but have little or no water in the outside lines. This is only good for mild winter temperatures when the cabin is kept heated. Make sure that you regulate the pressure to no more than 60 psi, and if your fitting has a restrictor in it, drill it out to allow more air flow. The restrictor is there to hopefully prevent damage when a lunatic hooks up unregulated 140 psi shop air to the fitting!

 

Fresh, gray and black tanks: these should be emptied before a full winterization. A tank can withstand a little layer of frozen water at the bottom, but a full tank can freeze solid and rupture. The black tank should be kept wet enough to prevent the crud at the bottom from hardening. The other tanks do not need to have water in them.

 

**** IMPORTANT NOTE ****** Unless your trailer has the latest fresh water pickup tube modification, the fresh tank cannot be emptied without tilting the tongue WAY up high. When level, there are 12 gallons that are trapped and unusable due to the location of the factory pickup opening. That opening feeds both the pump and the drain pipe. Tilting will get most of that extra water out. If you have the new pickup tube that comes in from the top, you can run the fresh water pump to scavenge any remaining water.

 

Composting toilet: service the pee tank by emptying and cleaning it, do not add vinegar until warm weather returns. Blow out or flush with AF the unused water supply line that is dead ended at the valve behind the toilet. This line can be disconnected and capped under the vanity to eliminate this messy requirement.

 

Liquids in the lockers, fridge, cabinets and drawers: remove everything that can freeze, including cleaning sprays and canned goods. Don’t forget the drinking water hoses, and water filter and regulator, if you have these!

 

Some people don’t bother to use antifreeze in the plumbing but instead just blow all the water out. Air cannot freeze and any small amount of residual moisture will probably not hurt anything. Maybe. There are no guarantees with this method. Regardless, the sink and floor traps need to have AF poured down them. Make sure you blow air through ALL the lines, by cycling all service valves. If a section of line is left with water in it, that part might freeze. Blowing out the system will dump more water into the gray tank, so leave draining that tank until the last step... You can use a bucket to catch all the water coming out of the faucets, so that it doesn't go into your gray tank.

 

In the video AF is sprayed directly on the ground..... really?!! Use a bucket so you don’t track it everywhere, especially into the cabin. It is non toxic but very messy! Hose off any spilled stuff.

 

Buying antifreeze: any hardware store has this for less than 3 bucks per gallon, don't pay inflated prices, especially for the stupid Camco 30611 "concentrated" package - two bottles of concentrate, just add water to make 2 gallons, $20! I also have a bridge for sale.

 

Antifreeze 101: AF WILL crystalize at about +12 F but it will not solidify and expand until about -50 F. So don't be alarmed if very cold AF appears slushy. That is normal. Unless it has been diluted with residual fresh water that did not get flushed out, which is bad. More volume of AF is better when winterizing. An extra gallon will give better protection.

 

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1144

 

I keep Mouse in an insulated but unheated garage. I plan to use compressed air for a partial winterization, but keep the fresh tank and inner plumbing serviced and ready for use in the event of a winter emergency.

 

Deviating from Oliver’s instructions may result in plumbing damage due to freezing which will not be covered under warranty!

 

There are some other steps needed for putting your Ollie to bed for the winter, but that should not be part of this thread.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[John E Davies]

I removed the strainer bowl on the inlet side of the water pump, emptied water from the bowl, cleaned any debris from the metal screen, and reinstalled. At the time, I did not notice the replacement of water with RV antifreeze within the bowl. I assumed the bowl might freeze. This past spring all was good from my winterizing and I assumed my actions did no harm. Was that an unnecessary step in the process? Thank you, Buzzy

 

Hey Buzzy, if you used the water pump to suck AF through the outside suction port, it _had_ to go through the filter bowl...... so I am having a hard time understanding why you did not see it there. It certainly doesn't hurt to remove the filter, that would be a normal time to service it anyway, if you have been filling up from unknown sources like campground wells without using an external filter on the hose.

 

Could you have turned the system back on and sucked some fresh water out of the tank afterwards? Or had you drained that tank already?

 

There are a lot of different circuits and valves in this system, it is kinda hard to understand what is going where in all those lines. For this reason alone I like compressed air since you can just flip valves back and forth while adding air at each outside port in turn. That way you will know every single line has been cleared. If you are truly anal (I am not quite there) you could blow out the lines, then add AF. A few extra minutes and some extra AF sure beats having to replace a split line, a ruptured water pump, or worst of all, a split tank.....

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[Mainiac]

We used to winterize 40+ units, at a campground we used hang around, every fall. We blew out every one with air(we also did the supply hoses just to be sure) and then added antifreeze. It is a process that, so far, has never failed us. Air alone can leave just a enough moisture to gather, freeze, and maybe split a line.

 

We watched the Oliver video, and then pulled out the owner's manual. There seems to be differences between the two. Also we found multiple errors in the manual. If you have never winterized  your Oliver before I would suggest, before gathering everything, you do a dry run. Just so you know where the right valves are, and switches(we tag them while we were there). An example is, in multiple places, it is stated that you need a 1 1/8" socket--- what I really need is a 1 1/16" socket to pull the anode. Switches and layout have been updated, but evidently the manual they gave me had not been. I had been led to believe that during sales talks and brochures that you drop a hose into a bottle of antifreeze, turn on the pump, and voila - unit was done. Evidently not so, now you need a hand pump to do a couple of places and no one around here carries them.

 

We have started a checklist, a step by step guide if you will, for my particular unit. Two side notes: we always turn all valves back to standard operating positions when winterization is complete. So that it is ready to go at a moment's notice. The other is, we opened the compartment toward the back from the pump compartment. We found the heater hose had some strange kinked bends in it. We did straightened them out. We probably will shorten the hose a little and support it better. The idea is it will allow easier airflow to the passenger compartment, and after all, that is where I live.

[SeaDawg]

We've never needed a hand pump to winterize. Have we missed something?

 

I'm curious. I know we have an older trailer....

 

PS I know we show a Florida address, but we winterize every year in NC., In the fall.

 

Preventive

 

What did we miss? And what should we add?

 

Sherry

[John E Davies]

We’ve never needed a hand pump to winterize. Have we missed something? I’m curious. I know we have an older trailer…. PS I know we show a Florida address, but we winterize every year in NC., In the fall. Preventive What did we miss? And what should we add? Sherry

The video tells you to pump AF through the city water, tank fill and black flush connections, to ensure that those short sections of the system are protcted; since none of them are on the pressure side of the water pump, they will not get filled otherwise.

 

PS any auto parts store will sell you a fluid pump designed to go into a bottle of gear oil. There is no reason not to use it with AF, but I would clearly mark it so you don’t get mixed up. You just need to add an adapter nipple and fitting onto the hose to connect to the female water hose fittings on the side of the trailer.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

 

 

[rideandfly]

Thanks for the fine video!

 

Winterized Ollie with RV AF last Sunday.

 

Used an inexpensive, not previously used with tranny oil :) , Pennzoil transmission/differential style hand oil pump, when pumping AF into city water, fresh water, and black tank flush inlets.  Adapted the outlet pump hose to a male threaded garden hose fitting for connecting to the Ollie.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mainiac]

SeaDawg: We found the pump online at HomeD. $16 and free shipping if picked up at the local store. We also found it for $32 on Amazon, but they said "free shipping" included. Guess where the rip off happens? Maybe retail isn't dead.

 

This unit included the garden hose fitting and hoses. Think Camco, so probably any CampersW might have, if you have one near by. It is shown in use at Oliver University, if you can get it to turn on...

[John E Davies]

$17 Amazon Prime.

 

Use the Camco RV Hand Pump Kit to antifreeze directly into your RV waterlines and supply tanks. Kit includes flexible connecting line with city water connection

 

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36003-Hand-Pump-Kit/dp/B0006IX7YW

 

That is probably about the same cost as fabricating one from parts. And certainly less painless, if you can wait two days for one.... I just ordered mine.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA