Length of Sewer Pipe Extension Needed

[aquestell]

I am picking up my Legacy Elite II in July. The information I am asking may already be in a posting somewhere, however I have not yet seen it. The question is, if I want to add a sewer pipe extension to the bumper area where the pipe comes out of the trailer, how long an extension do I need so that the pipe is closer to where the bumper opens?

[Mike and Carol]

I can’t answer with a specific number since our trailer is over in the storage. But, the way I do it is to keep the sewer hose connected all the time while we’re on the road. With the recess it allows storing the hose in the bumper without disconnecting. If you brought the pipe out further you’d have to disconnect in order to close the bumper. It makes it easy when we have a FHU site to just drop the bumper and connect to the campsite sewer. Mike

[aquestell]

Thank you very much. I too will plan on leaving the hose connected. I was just curious if doing a short extension would bring it closer to the edge of the bumper opening so you wouldn't have to reach in so far to hook it up or disconnect it if you ever need to.

[Mainiac]

The secret to sewer hose is to buy the Best that you can find. Nothing spoils a trip worse than remembering a ruptured hose or an unplanned disconnect. We leave our longer hose hooked up all the time. (We also have 2 shorter hoses and extra fittings we carry, because it seems CG usually put their sewer connections just beyond where I plan on them being). By leaving the hose hooked up there is also less chance of having a tab lock come loose. We do check it occasionally to make sure that the tabs are full seated. We also are thinking about converting to cam lock fittings as they are more secure and easier to use. We will still carry some tab fittings to fit various adapters and our blue tank, as well as that short section of clear pipe. The clear section may not be pretty in use, but lets you know when the black tank is clean when flushing.

[Commanche]

I put a extension on our pipe, can't remember if it was 12 or 15 inches, picked it up at Camping World. Without that extension it's a real pain to hook up, and if you don't get it on quite right, NOT GOOD. Probably best to just keep it hooked up.

 

Stan

[Rumline]

We also are thinking about converting to cam lock fittings as they are more secure and easier to use.

Are you referring to the Lippert Wastemaster, or just using cam-lock fittings on a different hose?

 

 

[Mainiac]

Thinking of using standard cam fitting. Of course that will depend on if we can get a good seal/fitting on the existing hose. The limiting factor is that the storage area is so small. Would love to modify the rear bumper, but haven't thought that through yet. Thinking a step to clean or adjust the rear cam might be nice, but can't interfere with tail lights or emergency window opening. Maybe more time on the road to think about it...

[Bruce W]

It would be nice if they would make the bumper deeper.

[Pat Maundrell]

We have our Oliver on Order so I can't actually see the Rear Bumper Storage but I know its dimensions 48" wide left to right, 20 1/2" front to rear, and is 6" high and have seen some pictures of it. I am thinking of utilizing this area for some extra CLEAN storage for our Zip Dee Chairs.

Their dimension are 24" wide, 23 1/4 long and with two of them stacked on top of each other are only 3 1/2 tall. As you can see I need another 2" front to rear for these Chairs to fit. Hopefully,  I can make an adjustment somewhere to find the 2 extra inches. 

Lastly, I'll need to install a divider between the Chair side of the storage compartment and the Sewer drain side to keep things sanitary. If this is successful it will be of sufficient use!  

[John E Davies]

11 hours ago, Pat Maundrell said:

We have our Oliver on Order so I can't actually see the Rear Bumper Storage but I know its dimensions 48" wide left to right, 20 1/2" front to rear, and is 6" high and have seen some pictures of it. I am thinking of utilizing this area for some extra CLEAN storage for our Zip Dee Chairs.

If you never drive on an unpaved road, then that compartment might stay only a little dirty. If you should happen to drive on a maintained gravel or raw dirt forest road, or even a long stretch of “under construction” highway, that space will become choked with dirt. Being in a low pressure area directly behind the tires, it will never, ever be a clean area, unless you can figure out a good way to completely seal it off, including any drainage openings. It would have to be close to 100% air tight. 

A great spot for your chairs, clean and easy to access, would be strapped down inside a good rooftop carrier like a Yakima Skybox, on top of your TV. That is where mine go. My box is a Carbonite Lo, so it will clear my garage doors; a taller one would provide more useful volume, but it would not look so very cool.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited February 19, 2021 by John E Davies

[BackofBeyond]

9 hours ago, Pat Maundrell said:

We have our Oliver on Order so I can't actually see the Rear Bumper Storage but I know its dimensions 48" wide left to right, 20 1/2" front to rear, and is 6" high and have seen some pictures of it. I am thinking of utilizing this area for some extra CLEAN storage for our Zip Dee Chairs.

Their dimension are 24" wide, 23 1/4 long and with two of them stacked on top of each other are only 3 1/2 tall. As you can see I need another 2" front to rear for these Chairs to fit. Hopefully,  I can make an adjustment somewhere to find the 2 extra inches. 

Lastly, I'll need to install a divider between the Chair side of the storage compartment and the Sewer drain side to keep things sanitary. If this is successful it will be of sufficient use!  

Pat,

I think you will find your idea unworkable in practice. Once the sewer hoses are stowed - there is not much real usable area left. I leave my hoses connected to the drain pipe, and push them into the area. I roll my water hoses up, connect them to themselves, and the fitted into the curbside area. Additionally, the area is not all that air and water sealed/secured. See JD's description.

RB

 

[Frank C]

Pat,

Ditto to John and Russell’s comments.  That bumper storage area is not roomy, clean nor sanitary.  The “Stinky Slinky” drain hose (minimum 20’ needed, I carry 30’ to reach at some campgrounds) takes up almost the entire compartment.  And even if you have the composting toilet, you’re still connecting that drain hose to empty your gray tank, and that means you are still connecting to the sewage dump connection at a campground or rest stop, so the end of the hose is still in contact with sewage from other campers that connected right before you.  So you should treat the bumper storage as an unsanitary area.  And it does get a lot of road dust/dirt accumulation as well just from normal driving.   I only store the drain hose & connectors and the drain hose supports in that area.   Potable water hoses, water filters, etc. all get stored in the either the basement storage area or back of my truck under the bed cover.  

Edited February 19, 2021 by FrankC

[John E Davies]

I really like this pic, it illustrates the disadvantages of a rear entry door in a truck camper (or Airstream nest). Not everybody drives over what the Aussies call bull dust, but this shows why your bikes get so nasty back there. OTH I have been on busy gravel USFS forest roads where the dust is so bad by mid summer that it is like ankle deep talcomb powder on the shoulders, and it completely coats the trees for hundreds of  yards downwind... you definitely don’t want a campsite close by.

Vortex generators would help a lot, but only if you never slowed below 30 mph😬

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited February 19, 2021 by John E Davies

[Alberta and Randy]

Would someone please show me/tell me what is used to connect their stinky slinky to the drain pipe that also allows the rear bumper to close?  I don't know the names of the components we currently have on our trailer (2015 LEII #67) but if the hose is connected to the drain pipe the bumper does not have clearance to close (see attached picture).  I keep reading about people doing this but I haven't figured out how yet.  Thanks much.

[AlbertNTerri]

As far as I know when the hose is hooked up then the bumper remains open

[Trainman]

I did replace my factory sewer hoses with the Camco orange and black ones, they accordion out and will stay where you pull them out to, the factory Camco ones stay flexible all the time and much harder to work with. I do carry two 10' hoses with me all the time and a selection of hose ends for different hookup. Also the sewer hose ladder to provide down hill flow of the waste, plus everything you carry back there get dirty from dust, etc. and I wash it out everytime I use the trailer when I get home. All being said, I wouldn't use the area for much more then sewer stuff.

trainman

[Townesw]

@Alberta and Randy You have an earlier hull number. It looks like your pipe extends out further. I have hull 313 and the pipe does not extend that far out which allows me to leave the hose connected when the bumper is closed. At some point in production they must have shortened the length of the pipe inside the rear bumper area. 
 

[Mike and Carol]

5 hours ago, AlbertNTerri said:

As far as I know when the hose is hooked up then the bumper remains open

I never remove my hose from the bumper connection and the bumper closes fine.  There should be no need to disconnect the hose to close the bumper.

[Mike and Carol]

9 hours ago, Alberta and Randy said:

Would someone please show me/tell me what is used to connect their stinky slinky to the drain pipe that also allows the rear bumper to close?  I don't know the names of the components we currently have on our trailer (2015 LEII #67) but if the hose is connected to the drain pipe the bumper does not have clearance to close (see attached picture).  I keep reading about people doing this but I haven't figured out how yet.  Thanks much.

Is there some kind of extension on this or does it look like it came that way from the factory?  I have hull 135 and the connection is far enough back that I can just bend the hose and the bumper closes easily.  Mike

[John E Davies]

10 hours ago, Alberta and Randy said:

 

That is out a lot further than normal. If you want to move it forward, it would be very easy to cut out a section of the black pipe inside the hull and reconnect it with a glued ABS coupling. Access is fine underneath the false floor in the cargo area, which is held down by a few small screws..

Also, make sure the big rubber grommet is in place, mine was never installed right and the waste pipe flopped around and a very large amount of dust entered the cabin there. There should be almost no motion at all.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2821-how-to-waste-pipe-plastic-dust-grommet-not-secured-pipe-moves-around/

I recall that a member cut a great big hole in the bottom aluminum plate and used a 90 degree elbow so the hose would exit out straight down, and the bumper could then be closed while connected. I prefer not to have a hole there. A full timer who spends months connected might prefer that mod.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[mossemi]

 

35 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

I recall that a member cut a great big hole in the bottom aluminum plate and used a 90 degree elbow so the hose would exit out straight down, and the bumper could then be closed while connected.

@Landrover mentioned that mod in his for sale posting.  Follow the link below:
 

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7121-2019-legacy-elite-ii-for-sale-in-ocala-florida/#comment-77148

Mossey

[Alberta and Randy]

Rechecked our setup - looks like original equipment,  no extensions. So we will have to do the mod if we want the capability to leave the hose attached during travel.

Thanks again for the education.  I was hoping for magic.  Lol

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, Alberta and Randy said:

Thanks again for the education.  I was hoping for magic.  Lol

Abracadrabra! Kazaaaam! Go out and recheck, maybe it is fixed now.

John Davies

Spokane WA