Bathroom Vanity Cubby Modification

[Frank C]

One of the great features of the Oliver trailer design is the fast and easy (no tools needed) access to ALMOST all of the plumbing, heating, and electrical systems through the hatches under the dinette seats and the beds, or by removing the kitchen cabinet drawers.  One area that’s NOT readily accessible is the area under the bathroom vanity, even though there is plumbing, electrical, and furnace ductwork all tucked inside the vanity.   The storage cubby in the front of the vanity is screwed AND CAULKED in place by Oliver at the factory, so access is a bit more complicated than the other areas.

I recently needed to get into that vanity area for some inspection and maintenance, and after completing that I wanted to make future access easier (no tools needed and no caulking).  I know some owners have replaced the storage cubby with a hinged marine access panel, but I didn’t want to lose the cubby storage.  So here’s a detailed description of a simple modification I did, along with links to the parts used.   Access is now fast and easy.  

No-Slip Clip-On Barrel Nut, for 0.025" to 0.15" Panel Thickness, 8-32 Thread Size

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/94850A111

 

#8-32 x 1" Thumb Screw Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FZVLZKD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

uxcell Edge Trim U Seal Extrusion, Silicone White U Channel Edge Protector Sheet Fits 0.5-2.5mm Edge 3Meters/9.84Ft Length https://a.co/d/1uWUZB3

 

Molex -3 Match Set - (3-Pin) w/14-20 AWG, Wire Connector - 2.13mm D, Latch Lock, MLX https://a.co/d/gapvioi

 

[Patriot]

13 minutes ago, Frank C said:

One of the great features of the Oliver trailer design is the fast and easy (no tools needed) access to ALMOST all of the plumbing, heating, and electrical systems through the hatches under the dinette seats and the beds, or by removing the kitchen cabinet drawers.  One area that’s NOT readily accessible is the area under the bathroom vanity, even though there is plumbing, electrical, and furnace ductwork all tucked inside the vanity.   The storage cubby in the front of the vanity is screwed AND CAULKED in place by Oliver at the factory, so access is a bit more complicated than the other areas.

I recently needed to get into that vanity area for some inspection and maintenance, and after completing that I wanted to make future access easier (no tools needed and no caulking).  I know some owners have replaced the storage cubby with a hinged marine access panel, but I didn’t want to lose the cubby storage.  So here’s a detailed description of a simple modification I did, along with links to the parts used.   Access is now fast and easy.  

No-Slip Clip-On Barrel Nut, for 0.025" to 0.15" Panel Thickness, 8-32 Thread Size

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/94850A111

 

#8-32 x 1" Thumb Screw Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FZVLZKD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

uxcell Edge Trim U Seal Extrusion, Silicone White U Channel Edge Protector Sheet Fits 0.5-2.5mm Edge 3Meters/9.84Ft Length https://a.co/d/1uWUZB3

 

Molex -3 Match Set - (3-Pin) w/14-20 AWG, Wire Connector - 2.13mm D, Latch Lock, MLX https://a.co/d/gapvioi

 

Very nice job and attention to detail! 👍🏻👍🏻

[Katjo]

52 minutes ago, Frank C said:

One of the great features of the Oliver trailer design is the fast and easy (no tools needed) access to ALMOST all of the plumbing, heating, and electrical systems through the hatches under the dinette seats and the beds, or by removing the kitchen cabinet drawers.  One area that’s NOT readily accessible is the area under the bathroom vanity, even though there is plumbing, electrical, and furnace ductwork all tucked inside the vanity.   The storage cubby in the front of the vanity is screwed AND CAULKED in place by Oliver at the factory, so access is a bit more complicated than the other areas.

I recently needed to get into that vanity area for some inspection and maintenance, and after completing that I wanted to make future access easier (no tools needed and no caulking).  I know some owners have replaced the storage cubby with a hinged marine access panel, but I didn’t want to lose the cubby storage.  So here’s a detailed description of a simple modification I did, along with links to the parts used.   Access is now fast and easy.  

No-Slip Clip-On Barrel Nut, for 0.025" to 0.15" Panel Thickness, 8-32 Thread Size

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/94850A111

 

#8-32 x 1" Thumb Screw Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FZVLZKD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

uxcell Edge Trim U Seal Extrusion, Silicone White U Channel Edge Protector Sheet Fits 0.5-2.5mm Edge 3Meters/9.84Ft Length https://a.co/d/1uWUZB3

 

Molex -3 Match Set - (3-Pin) w/14-20 AWG, Wire Connector - 2.13mm D, Latch Lock, MLX https://a.co/d/gapvioi

 

 

[Katjo]

@Frank C Brilliant!!!

[1Lessworker]

Wow really nice, thanks for all the pictures. It will help when I do mine!!

What edge seal did you use?

[Frank C]

34 minutes ago, 1Lessworker said:

Link is in the original post. 

[dewdev]

57 minutes ago, Frank C said:

 

Frank C.

Great post - Thanks.

For the wiring, did you just crimp each wire connector, or did you soder each wire connection?

Have you seen any leaks around the edge seal?

[Frank C]

1 hour ago, dewdev said:

Frank C.

Great post - Thanks.

For the wiring, did you just crimp each wire connector, or did you soder each wire connection?

Have you seen any leaks around the edge seal?

I just crimped the pins of the Molex connector onto the wires.   And so far no leaks when I water tested it. 

[Mike and Carol]

That’s some great work!  Now on my to-do list.  Mike

[Minnesota Oli]

Frank

I think you hit a home run with this mod and also in the write up. Thanks for sharing.

Paul

[rideandfly]

Frank,

Great modification! If Oliver is not doing this, they should!!!!!!!!!

Also on my to-do list!

[Cameron]

I never would have thought to do this until I read your post and now I feel I must do it. And I can, thanks to your super detailed instructions with parts and photos. 

[csevel]

Love this..wish I would have done this after repairing the courtesy/puddle light in the bathroom!  Great work and on my list too!

[MnM]

This is a  fantastic mod.  Both your work and your documentation for us all is super!  Thank You!

[hobo]

On 8/17/2022 at 5:00 PM, Frank C said:

Link is in the original post. 

Frank,  What bit did you use to chamfer the holes in the fiberglass?  Also, I assume you did that step before you enlarged the hole to 1/4"? 

[Frank C]

15 minutes ago, hobo said:

Frank,  What bit did you use to chamfer the holes in the fiberglass?  Also, I assume you did that step before you enlarged the hole to 1/4"? 

Countersinking/chamfering drill bits are available at any hardware store (Lowe's, etc.).   And yes, holes were chamfered with the countersinking bit before enlarging the hole diameter (see photos in original post for sequence of steps).

[hobo]

2 minutes ago, Frank C said:

Countersinking/chamfering bits are available at any hardware store (Lowe's, etc.).   And yes, holes were chamfered with the countersinking bit before enlarging the hole diameter (see photos in original post for sequence of steps).

Thanks.

[Frank C]

15 minutes ago, hobo said:

Thanks.

Here’s a picture of the type of countersinking bit I used first on the fiberglass to clean up/chamfer the gel coat surface.  This one has a small enough diameter drill bit (1/8”) to fit through the original hole, so only the chamfered section of the bit touched the fiberglass to create the chamfered edge on the gel coat layer.   Then after chamfering I used a 1/4” bit to open up the clearance hole through the fiberglass. 
 

[hobo]

9 minutes ago, Frank C said:

Here’s a picture of the type of countersinking bit I used first on the fiberglass to clean up/chamfer the gel coat surface.  This one has a small enough diameter drill bit (1/8”) to fit through the original hole, so only the chamfered section of the bit touched the fiberglass to create the chamfered edge on the gel coat layer.   Then after chamfering I used a 1/4” bit to open up the clearance hole through the fiberglass. 
 

Thanks for the pic.  Perfect.

[John Dehne]

Nice job and write up. I also will add this to the list. 

[John Dorrer]

On 8/17/2022 at 2:42 PM, Frank C said:

One of the great features of the Oliver trailer design is the fast and easy (no tools needed) access to ALMOST all of the plumbing, heating, and electrical systems through the hatches under the dinette seats and the beds, or by removing the kitchen cabinet drawers.  One area that’s NOT readily accessible is the area under the bathroom vanity, even though there is plumbing, electrical, and furnace ductwork all tucked inside the vanity.   The storage cubby in the front of the vanity is screwed AND CAULKED in place by Oliver at the factory, so access is a bit more complicated than the other areas.

I recently needed to get into that vanity area for some inspection and maintenance, and after completing that I wanted to make future access easier (no tools needed and no caulking).  I know some owners have replaced the storage cubby with a hinged marine access panel, but I didn’t want to lose the cubby storage.  So here’s a detailed description of a simple modification I did, along with links to the parts used.   Access is now fast and easy.  

No-Slip Clip-On Barrel Nut, for 0.025" to 0.15" Panel Thickness, 8-32 Thread Size

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/94850A111

 

#8-32 x 1" Thumb Screw Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FZVLZKD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

uxcell Edge Trim U Seal Extrusion, Silicone White U Channel Edge Protector Sheet Fits 0.5-2.5mm Edge 3Meters/9.84Ft Length https://a.co/d/1uWUZB3

 

Molex -3 Match Set - (3-Pin) w/14-20 AWG, Wire Connector - 2.13mm D, Latch Lock, MLX https://a.co/d/gapvioi

 

I have to remove this because one of the bolts holding the propane housing to the trailer came off or was never installed properly. I have to access this area to install the washer, locking washer, and nut on the backside. Also, I want to check the duct work as we get little hot air. Oliver said it was due to the distance from furnace to the bathroom vent. There is some merit to that. Did you cut any of the duct off?  I purchased the silicone edge stripping to use instead of re-caulking.  Will that keep the seal watertight? Appreciate any feedback.

[Frank C]

57 minutes ago, John Dorrer said:

I have to remove this because one of the bolts holding the propane housing to the trailer came off or was never installed properly. I have to access this area to install the washer, locking washer, and nut on the backside. Also, I want to check the duct work as we get little hot air. Oliver said it was due to the distance from furnace to the bathroom vent. There is some merit to that. Did you cut any of the duct off?  I purchased the silicone edge stripping to use instead of re-caulking.  Will that keep the seal watertight? Appreciate any feedback.

Hi John, so far the silicone edge seal has been watertight, but I also have a shower curtain setup I made that covers part of the vanity as well, so it’s not getting a lot of water running over the cubby anyway.   And I did not make any changes to the ductwork in the vanity at all, just cleaned up the wiring a bit as shown in the original post. 

[AndrewK]

John Dorrer, I used butyl tape to seal the edge all of the way around and trimmed off the excess with a plastic razor blade.

It creates a very clean edge without having to use caulk.  

I really dislike the caulk and try not to use it if at all possible.

Andrew

[John Dorrer]

Thanks guys

[dewdev]

I find that the McMaster barrel nuts have a thinner gap (thickness) than the thicker panel they go on. Trying to force them on the  thicker panel makes the nut portion not straight on. This does not let the Thumb screw go straight in and thereby going in at a slant and is also very hard to engage in the nut. It likely does not seal the hole as the washer does not seat flat.

Any ideas on correcting this situation short of make the panel thinner? 

Is there another type of nut that could be used?

Thanks