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Replacing Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000W Inverter


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Recently, my inverter stopped working and wouldn't power on.

Here is what I found so far (long story, feel free to skip and go to installation section below)

  • The trailer was parked in at my property with shore power and the inverter was working when we were back from camping trip a few weeks ago. Over the weekend we found that the breaker was tripped and narrow it down to problem with the inverter.
  • When on shore power, either the breaker at the shore power or main breaker underneath the dinette seats would trip unless switched the breaker of the inverter to off. The inverter screens didn't show anything for both remote and on the inverter itself located under the street side bed.
  • When not on shore power, inverter didn't power on. Checked the voltage at the DC positive and negative terminal at the inverter using digital multi-meter and confirmed that there's ~13V at the terminal.
  • Tried to reset the inverter by cutting DC power using the 2 red button switches near the inverter and confirmed using digital multi-meter that there was no DC at the terminal. This also didn't work. The inverter wouldn't power on when restoring power to it.

I decided to submit a ticket and Jason and I agreed that there's an issue with the inverter itself and I had to contact Xantrex.

After submit a ticket to Xantrex, the technician recommended updating firmware and that didn't help. Xantrex agreed to send me a new one because it's still under 2 year warranty. 

Installation

I got most of the information below from Oliver and it's specific to my 2021 LE2, please contact Oliver to confirm if you have a different model year.

  • Disconnect Shore Power from the camper.
  • Flip the 30A Main Breaker to the OFF position (located in the AC Breaker box under the Dinette)
  • Flip the 25A Breaker for the Inverter to the OFF position. 

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  • Trip the 200 or 300A Inverter Breaker located under the street side bed access panel area. The breaker is located up & under next to the side of the battery box.

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  • Remove the inverter cover in order to gain access to the wire connections. The 120V wires on located on the left with the 12V connections on the right, pictured below.

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  • Once the cover is removed you will need to disconnect all 4 wiring connections inside the inverter. As a precautionary measure, do not let the wires contact each other. 
    With shore power removed & the Inverter breaker tripped there shouldn't be any power but it is best to be safe just in case you got in a hurry and skipped or missed a step.

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  • Make note of the 120V Wires once you disconnect for which one is the AC In and which one is the AC Out
  • Disconnect the ground wire located on the top edge of the inverter.

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  • Remove the screws securing the inverter to the white AP1 board. There are two screws located on the bottom and two located on the top. You may see other screws that are securing the wires to the white board but it is not necessary to remove them when replacing the inverter unless you are installing new wires. See screws pictured below as reference.

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  • Follow the steps in reverse to install the new inverter.
    • Mount the inverter on the white board & secure with the 4 screws
    • Connect the ground wire
    • Connect the 12V Wires. Red is positive & Black is Negative.
    • Connect the 120V Wires. Be sure to connect the AC In & AC Out wires correctly. 
    • Reinstall the cover
    • Reset the Inverter Breaker by pressing the leg by in.
    • Turn inverter on at the inverter itself (not the remote display) and verify 12V to 120V operation through the inverter.
    • Turn the inverter off at the inverter
    • Flip the 30A Main & 25A Inverter breakers back to the ON position.
    • Connect shore power to the camper and verify charge state through the charger to the batteries. It may take a minute or two for it to engage.
  • Once the inverter has been installed you will need to check the settings and set it based on your battery type
  • The only settings that are changed by the Oliver factory are: #02 ,#05, #20, #24 & #28, based on your options, and are in bold font below

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Xantrex Customer Support: 800-670-0707

Oliver Service Department: 888-526-3978 

 

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2021 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #854
2021 Ford Expedition Platinum

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  • The title was changed to Replacing Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000W Inverter

Sak, thanks very much for the detailed instructions and annotated pictures. Those are always most helpful! It is very time consuming to write up this sort of post and edit the pictures. FYI everybody …..

“Remove the screws securing the inverter to the white AP1 board. There are two screws located on the bottom and two located on the top”

There have been a number of owners who have found one or more of those screw holes stripped, and some like me have found that white board partially or COMPLETELY pulled away from the mounting surface (failure of the epoxy bond). I do not think that those four dinky little sheet metal screws are strong enough for that much weight, especially when going  over rough roads. I drilled completely through mine in four places and installed longer machine screws, flat washers and nylock nuts.

This is something to be aware of, keep a close eye on the boards where they are attached,  and on the mount screws of all these components.

Thanks again, great post!

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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We also discovered today that our inverter has completely pulled away from the wall mounting surface, as a result of the epoxy failure.  It's free floating in the compartment but is still working.   My question:  Do I need to unplug all the wires connecting the inverter, re-attach the white board to the wall with new epoxy then reconnect the wires, or just re-attach the board with the inverter still attached to it?  I'm obviously no expert there...

Thanks and I appreciate any advice.

Doris and Bill

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22 minutes ago, BillandDoris said:

We also discovered today that our inverter has completely pulled away from the wall mounting surface, as a result of the epoxy failure.  It's free floating in the compartment but is still working.   My question:  Do I need to unplug all the wires connecting the inverter, re-attach the white board to the wall with new epoxy then reconnect the wires, or just re-attach the board with the inverter still attached to it?  I'm obviously no expert there...

Thanks and I appreciate any advice.

Doris and Bill

Take out the unit completely (disconnect battery power first!!!)

I sanded the surfaces with rough paper, cleaned the board and wall surfaces with alcohol, and reattached with JB Weld. You should be able to figure out a way to brace the panel overnight, wedging in a trimmed piece of wood will work, or a large adjustable clamp, if if is deep enough to reach. That will get you back to where the factory did it. Do you trust that heavy inverter to stay on with those tiny short screws? Not me.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-10-oz-Pro-Blister-Epoxy-8281/308472730

Drill out all the holes clear through the wall, install appropriately sized stainless machine screws, washers and locking nuts. Place the heads where they are visible (put the nuts inside). 

Slot (cut) the lower holes in the inverter so that you can preinstall those lower washers and nuts and simply lower the unit down onto them (they are kind of hard to reach). Reinstall the inverter. Now it cannot possibly fall off. Open a service ticket, Oliver needs to know that this is a problem!

Please add your TV and trailer info to your signature so we know what we are talking about…. and please start a new thread with pics.

John Davies

Spokane WA

  • Like 4

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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Thanks John, I was dismayed to discover Oliver would attach such a heavy unit with what looks like liquid nails!  And thanks for the link to Home Depot.  We don't do too much off road camping with the trailer but we do drive on plenty of lousy roads in the west.  Sunbaked, washboard, gravel, dusty, wavy, cracked, filled with potholes.  Up and down mountain passes, narrow, steep grades, cold and hot weather.  I wonder if the unit fell off the wall when we camped out during a recent cold spell and the temp fell to 26 degrees? 

Anyway, thanks again, and I'm going to send a service ticket as you suggested.  It's a total pain to have to re-install this unit because of cheap installation.

Doris and Bill

Santa Fe, New Mexico

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks JD. 

Early this summer as part of our LiFePo4 upgrade, I replaced our OEM 2K inverter with a 3K Renogy.  As you know it is a LOT larger and heavier than the OEM 2K unit.

I drilled out the four mounting holes, and added supplemental wood supports to accommodate the longer Inverter and to bring the four 3K mount holes in line.

I too was concerned about the weight and poor support.  Some JB weld and through the bunk vertical wall went four SS bolts, SS Fender Washers and 1/4 X 20 bolts with nylock nuts.   Yep I trust JB Weld, but I trust it more with thru-bolting with SS bolts and fasteners. So yes, if anybody wants to look, you can see under the street side bunk rail two of the four attachments. 

PS:  Used he same approach on the mounting of the Victron 12/12-30 charger under the street side front dinette seat facing aft. 

GJ  

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Tug:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Trailer Tow, FX-4, 4X4, Rear Locker

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