Inexpensive Helpful Modifications

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Here are three mods/aids that have been made on our Ollie.  The first was done by the previous owner, it’s a handy way to grab and close the door.

Much easier to find and grab.

The next was simple and driven by my inability to remember where the fresh water tank drain valve was located.  I fastened two bright yellow zip ties onto a water line above the valve.  The tails stick straight up and are easy to see.

The third was because I like to sleep with minimal sheets and blankets, and when my posterior touched the interior wall, it was chilly.  I split one of my old Ensolite backpacking pads down the middle and tucked the halves between the mattresses and inner hull.

[MAX Burner]

Not so inexpensive - but a couple quick and easy modifications installed this morning:

1.  We became tired of hassling with the curly safety wires during hitching operations.  Found some sturdier chains and hooks on Amazon, a 3/8" steel spacer, a grade 8 - 5" x 3/8" bolt and nylock, and with @topgun2's suggestion some 1" wire comb and a couple zip-ties - voila, new safety chains for about $65.00:

 

 

2.  The key pad numbers on our keyless "RVLock" started peeling off a few months back.  The standard configuration is a thin numbered membrane over the keypad area.  For an extra $5 for a total of about $22 including shipping we received an upgraded pad.  It should really be the standard pad unless someone wants to regularly replace the thin membrane all the time.

The thin membrane before I started peeling it off completely with needle nose pliers:

 

A judicious application of GOOF OFF to remove the residue of both the weather gasket and the thin membrane:

 

The new fully rubberized number keypad neatly replaced the original white gasket:

 

Carefully removing all the residue from the original weather gasket with GOOF OFF, replaced same with provided new weather seal:

 

New rubberized keypad should last awhile longer than the original...

 

Thoroughly cleaned off door surface area and mounted repaired keyless locking mechanism:

One and done - good to go:

Cheers!

[SeaDawg]

@Wandering Sagebrush, so often, the simple path can be the best.

Thanks for sharing.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Here’s a suggestion for making the dinette more comfy.  Not exactly elegant, but it does a reasonably good job, and you don’t get in trouble for stealing a cushion from your significant other.  It’s just an old floating boat cushion…

[Ronbrink]

On 9/16/2023 at 11:31 AM, Wandering Sagebrush said:

It’s just an old floating boat cushion…

Good idea! I like nestling up in the dinette seat corner, but the window shade is not comfortable to lean against. Gonna look at the ‘white’ boat seat cushions for the fix. Thanks

[Dave and Kimberly]

Great idea !   Another game changer is a magnet mounted right there at the same light ... positioned just right to catch and hold the bathroom door open when you want.    I got the idea from Topgun.   First tried Command strip... but it didn't hold up so I eventually broke down and screwed it into the fiberglass.

[MAX Burner]

34 minutes ago, Dave and Kimberly said:

First tried Command strip... but it didn't hold up so I eventually broke down and screwed it into the fiberglass.

We used @topgun2's magnet mod, too!   We placed a strong magnet on the inside of the dinette seat compartment with silicone tape and screwed another magnet on the corner of the door.  This way, there's nothing "showing" on the outer gelcoat of the dinette seat...  Holds the door open nicely.

[topgun2]

50 minutes ago, Dave and Kimberly said:

I got the idea from Topgun.

To be fair -

I believe it was Mike & Carol that first had the idea of mounting the one door magnet to the bottom of the bath door and the other magnet to the INSIDE of the dinette seat nearest the bath.  This arrangement provides just enough "holding" power for the bath door, hides one of the two magnets for a cleaner look and is easy to do.

The one that I used is similar to THESE.

Bill

[MAX Burner]

"BRAVO ZULU" goes out to @Mike and Carol and I stand corrected!

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

The one that I used is similar to THESE.

We used the same ones, Bill.  Thanks for the clarification...

Cheers to inexpensive and effective mods - great post idea, @Wandering Sagebrush! 

[Mike and Carol]

Our trailer is 8 years old.  We had it ceramic coated by the CGI team last year and the fiberglass looks as good as or better than new.  Unfortunately, the outlet covers on the 110 outlet and back jack switches had turned yellow.  The plastic chrome bezels around the tail lights had lost their shine.  So, while this isn’t an easy “mod” it is an easy and inexpensive  maintenance project.  I ordered new Furrion outlet covers and six new chrome light bezels and had them all replaced in about 15 minutes.  All are available on Amazon.

Furrion Outlet Cover

Light Bezel

 

Old and new.

This looks much better than the yellow version.

 

Old and new.

 

New bezel on top, old bezels in the middle and bottom.  

[topgun2]

For those that have a bit of time on their hands AND want to save a couple of bucks too:

Take those "yellowed" outlet covers off, clean then really well, wipe with alcohol and then given them a couple of coats of Krylon white spray paint.  Let dry overnight and put them back on.

I did mine this way about two years ago and there have been no signs of the yellow reappearing.

Bill 

[MAX Burner]

16 hours ago, topgun2 said:

For those that have a bit of time on their hands AND want to save a couple of bucks too:

This is a great hack!  We do the same here...

[jd1923]

I'm with @Mike and Carol for under $20 each, never liked parts painted over! Spend half that amount on paint anyway. And thanks Mike, I just added these to my wish list!

[jd1923]

Along the theme of "Inexpensive Helpful Modifications" thank you @Wandering Sagebrush I had shown this in my water pressure upgrade topic, but it certainly belongs here. How about a real outdoor shower?

Buy a pair of these (or you can purchase one). Hang one high above head height and hang the second one lower to wash your dog(s). Only the clear plastic mount stays taped to the Oliver and the bracket fits in the shower cabinet! They come in white. Still an inexpensive mod, even though with the crazy inflation seen over the last 3 years, the single now costs what I paid for a 2-pack just 3 months ago! JONKEAN 2 Pack Handheld Shower Head Holder with 2 Hanger Hooks, Strong Adhesive Shower Head Holder, Adjustable Shower Wand Holder Wall Mount, Bathroom Waterproof Shower Handle Holder No Drill Need - Amazon.com

[Wandering Sagebrush]

We have one. 😊

[Geronimo John]

On 9/15/2023 at 10:11 AM, MAX Burner said:

We became tired of hassling with the curly safety wires during hitching operations.

Some time ago we had posts about a F-350 and SOB trailer being hung by their safety chains.  That visual and our shared distain for the curly safety wires have put this on to do list for sure.  If you have an extra few inches of chain, I would suggest the following considerations:

 

First, the shear strength on a 3/8 grade 8 is between about 5,000 to 7000 pounds.   Your chains are rated at 24,000 pounds. Excellent chain choice!  Gold Stars.

In an emergency situation, likely the trailer chains will not come tight at the same time.  As such, one chain will absorb the initial impact loading.  If it breaks the bolt, then the other chain will basically follow the path of the first (Stay connected to the TV) as the thru bolt will fall out.  Then Ollie will exercise the break away switch.  To better utilize the capability of the chains more bolt strength would be warranted.  Recommendations in order of how much you believe any of the above follow:

A.  Replace the 3/8" thru bolt with two shorter bolts. That way if the impact takes out one side, you are still connected.

B.  If you have an extra 3" of chain, you could anchor the end of the chain to the Bulldog bolt above and then down to your two 3/8" bolts you have installed.  Chain hardware would be needed as I doubt that the chain will pass on a 1/2" bolt. 

C.  If you have more length than that you could run the chain to both bulldog bolts.  And of curse to the two 3/8" bolts.  More chain hardware likely needed.

D.  Or, if you are a John D., you would machine two spanner bars running from the two bulldog bolts and connect to the spare 3" of spare chain to your two 3/8" bolts.

PS:  I'm deep enough into the rabbit hole.  Personally I'll put on my to do list Option B is smarter chain guy knows of good hardware to connect a chain to the 1/2" bulldog bolts.  

GJ 

[Ronbrink]

9 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

A.  Replace the 3/8" thru bolt with two shorter bolts. That way if the impact takes out one side, you are still connected.

My OTT came equipped with individual shackles, but an upgrade to grade 8 chain is something to consider, as well as extra length to further attachment. That said, it was an easy task to upgrade my SoloSkiff trailer with 3/8” Pewag square security chain, so it’s only fair that the Oliver gets equal treatment! 

 

[Ronbrink]

A dozen simple mods!

*  Denotes pending or completed mods inspired by other owner’s, with full credit and kudos to those individuals. Thanks!

*Convenient umbrella holder: Not my idea or pic, but a great one I plan to do.

*Collapsable hanger: Added suction cups to a length of pool cleaning pole. Great for drying towels and clothing; SS hooks for shoes, trash bags and such.

*Propane tank lock: A couple of holes are drilled in alignment into existing parts to accommodate a long shank padlock; a security cable can be added to further theft deterrence. 

*Drain holes in awning support brackets: Drilling holes to facilitate proper water drainage on earlier OTT models. 

Propane auxiliary hose: This is a regulated hose extension that can easily be deployed by removing the round screw cap on the tank cover. It has an inline valve and conveniently stowed coiled atop the tank of proximity. 

*Tethered screw cap: A wire tether ensures the cap will not be lost if one fails to reinstall upon removal or it vibrates off in transit. And yes, that duplex outlet is another mod, but of the ‘more expensive and difficult to install’ category!

Additional USB ports: Easy to achieve by upgrading some of the existing interior duplex outlets with USB capable outlets where needed the most. 

Handy squeegee for the wet bath: HASKO hook accessary used to hang this tool for convenience of use. I put a clear bumper bead on the wall where the handle end makes contact to protect the fiberglass. 

Backup plan!: Extra this and that for ……,  well you know!

Sanitary bags at hand: A convenient roll dispenser for general use, especially if one is in the ‘no paper in the black tank’ camp! Moving on!



*Spray bottle: Staged below the TP holder and hung on a Command Brand spray bottle hanger. Great way to not only conserve water, when the toilet needs a little extra attention after use, but also fill space in the black tank. 

 

Handy toilet brush: Another use for those magnets widely used to help hold the shower door open when in camp. 

 

 

[Galway Girl]

Just did a whole series of articles on mods/accessories here on our Hull 505 *Galway Girl* blog fyi.

link:  Galway Girls Blog

7

[SeaDawg]

5 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

*Convenient umbrella holder: Not my idea or pic, but a great one I plan to do.

We have the manual deployed awning. That's where we keep the pole/handle, as it was an ingenious addition by Oliver. 

Great use of space for those of you with an electric awning!

I like the bar on your screen door, too.

Nice mods

Keep us apprised as you go forward!

[rideadeuce]

Used this… works great at well.

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/soum5-7a-4342-8-southco-magnetic-door-amp-window-holder-proud.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT_O4-HN0s5M1liP7fmVfmVecLki9siUfmoB1nRFs7Tt5uhGItsAC_BoCxC4QAvD_BwE

 

Edited June 12 by rideadeuce

[Steve Morris]

On 1/15/2024 at 10:59 AM, Ronbrink said:

Tethered screw cap: A wire tether ensures the cap will not be lost if one fails to reinstall upon removal or it vibrates off in transit. And yes, that duplex outlet is another mod, but of the ‘more expensive and difficult to install’ category!

Ron, where did you grab the AC supply for this modification? I’ve got two matching outlet covers, one for the front like yours and one in/near the basement. Thanks!

I did the tether last year when I almost left the cover behind…

[Ronbrink]

8 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

Ron, where did you grab the AC supply for this modification? I’ve got two matching outlet covers, one for the front like yours and one in/near the basement. Thanks!

I did the tether last year when I almost left the cover behind…

My 2020 OLEll had three blank breaker spots in the electrical panel. I installed a 30A breaker in said panel to power the forward exterior outlet, as well as an interior outlet at the rear dinette seat next to the panel. The interior outlet also has USB ports. Does this answer your question?

[Steve Morris]

57 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:

Does this answer your question?

Yes, thank you!

[Ronbrink]

14 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

Yes, thank you!

Please be advised, the breaker installed was a 20A not the 30A as mentioned in my reply. At the same time a second 20A breaker was also installed in the panel and wire routed to the nightstand where two desktop receptacles with USB ports were mounted atop that table, then further routed under the curbside bed to the receptacle shown in my January 15 post above, A dozen simple mods!, Additional USB ports. I stage a small dehumidifier in the galley on the stovetop cover and its’ wire can now be run down the wall and along the mattress for power. A third 20A breaker installed provides an auxiliary receptacle inside the rear seat hatch for miscellaneous use; light, fan, etc.

Nightstand AC/USB outlets very handy for staging/charging electronics.


Dehumidifier cord off counter as opposed to leading upward to the under cabinet outlet; makes for a cleaner look.

Dehumidifier cord/plug below curbside twin bed.

Miscellaneous duplex outlet inside dinette hatch on left. The receptacle box to the right is an expansion of the Xantrex setup to enable use of the LFPs to power the Dometic a/c.

Edited June 13 by Ronbrink