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Gentlemen, Thank you for bringing this topic to light. I apologize if you have written emails to our Sales Staff that have remained unanswered. I have spoken to our General Manager and he has spoken to one of our attorneys and is waiting to hear back from another attorney that specializes in this area of the law. In the meantime, we would like to thank you for bringing this to our attention and for all of your efforts. We will post updates here when more information becomes available.

We've been full timing in our Oliver since Nov of 2017. Here are some pics of storage solutions that work for us. It took a while living in the Ollie to really determine how we would use the space so I would caution you to give yourself some time. [attachment file=0311191047.jpg] [attachment file=163145] [attachment file=163148]

Corcomi, I am sorry to hear about your troubles. First, is your Truma still in warranty? See my post about my Truma repair, and the extended warranty. I would fight them if they claim that your warranty is void because you did not remove the filter when you winterized. I do, at least when it is relevant. Before winterizing, I did read the friggin manual, and as Overland pointed out, the Instruction Manual we were provided did NOT say to remove the filter. So you did follow their instructions. This is the Instruction Manual that Truma provided to Oliver, and that Oliver provided to us. If their instructions were incorrect, then they screwed up. This is from the Instruction Manual: [attachment file=Truma Instructions.png] I don’t know where that Truma document on Oliver University came from. When I google the title of the document (AG_Maintenance_and_Winterization Truma) or the first sentence of the document, my only hit is at Oliver University. When I go to the Truma US website and search for Winterization, I only find this page, which states "Step 4: Truma recommends storing the filter cartridge separately while the system is winterized." [attachment file=Truma Web site.png] Notice the language? Recommends. Not You Must. I called Truma when my AquaGo had problems. Again, see my post here. Once they found out I was under warranty they suggested shipping a new unit, and having a local service person install it. I didn’t like the sound of that plan, as it is reflective of our throw-away society. I would rather try to repair something before replacing it. So instead, I had the local service person open up the unit and try to fix it. If it could not be repaired, then Truma would send me a new unit, and I might be liable for the cost of the service tech's time on the repair attempt. But he was able to repair it. I am telling you all of this because of the amount of time it took for the repair, and how the guy you talked to on the phone may look at the situation. It took time to remove the AquaGo, to open up the unit, to repair it, and to reinstall it. Opening up the unit took the most time, repairing it took the least time. It would have taken much less service time to simply replace the unit. I am sorry, but I don't trust this guy. It sounds to me that he does not want to bother trying to repair it, but would rather just install a new one. Probably gets a sizable commission on the sale of the new unit, too. I would talk to Truma headquarters, or a different service rep. I have winterized my trailer three times without removing the filter, and for two of the winterizations I have not had “a broken water line that cannot be repaired.” (I don't know about this past winter, as I will be taking Ollie out of storage soon for a trip to Moab.) It sounds like Overland’s experience is similar, and if you have Hull 275 you have probably winterized at least once without this problem. Probably others on the forum, as well. Good luck with it!

I found exactly the same situation on our OOII when we got to Winnipeg for the Boler Rally last summer. A fellow that had been viewing the trailer noticed it and alerted me to it. I don't know which would be worse, 4 mph on a steep mountain road or 65 mph on the interstate. I'm glad that neither of us had to find out.

Hey, all. Prepping to go full-time after my Elite II pickup in late April. I have a spec sheet provided by Oliver which has measurements but perhaps someone can share pictures of the various storage cubbies in their E2? The ones on the site really just show the doors of the cubbies but not the shape + contour of things inside. Even better if this prompted a discussion here from folks who have advice on what they've settled on for dividing/organizing the various storage cubbies. Nothing exotic planned for storage needs on my end: clothes, dishes, and similar. Thx!

Well folks, here is a story that i hope you all learn.... I watched the winterization video on the Oliver University probably 5 times to make sure that i understood the instructions. I proceeded to follow them to the T. But there was a very small step that the video didn't mention; that is that on the Truma Instant water heater when you pull down the yellow tab to drain the water completely and inspect the water filter, YOU MUST NOT PUT THE FILTER BACK IN... you need to keep it out for the winter. By the way the Truma manual which you must access on the Oliver University website, step 5 on winterizing the water heater does mention that. But who reads all the manuals on every component in the rig... right? So this week when i took out the Ollie to go to my first outing, when i tried to start the instant hot water, i got water coming out of the unit. Called Oliver and they promptly got me a Truma dealer 3 hours away from my home base. After explaining to the tech what was happening without hesitation he asked "Did you remove the filter when you winterized?" Of course not i said. Well you have a broken water line that cannot be repaired and you need a NEW WATER HEATER. He states that this is very common that people dont take out the filter and the pipes expand or whatever... Mind you this is an authorized TRUMA repair RV facility. So if you want we can order you a new one and of course it is not covered by warranty and we need a down payment of 1200.00 dollars, plus installation separately Remember that they were listed when i bought the unit at 1299.00. Morale of the story.... trust but verify....

GrumbleandTwist, I think I've got your photos corrected. Let me know if they're right. Great idea on the dirty clothes hamper by the way.

This one appears to have been dropped from my last post. These are stacking bins for produce in the cubby next to the pantry.

I don’t know of longer bolts, but you should probably at at least replace all the nuts with new ones, so you are sure of their self locking ability, and also peen the exposed threads - Use a big center punch to put two or three craters in the threads right next to the nuts. They will act as a secondary “safety” and also as a visual clue if the nut is backing off. If you are truly anal like me, you should remove every single bolt, one at a time, to inspect them, and make sure lube is getting where it is supposed to.... it is a ton of work and it might make sense to just buy and install a brand new bolt kit. Make sure the bushings are OK. John Daveis Spokane WA

I check mine for torque every other time I grease the zerks. They don’t normally loosen but it can happen.... HOWEVER! Each bolt has a short area of ridges or splines underneath the head, that bite into the steel of the mount holes to prevent it from spinning. At least that is the concept. It is VERY important to hold the head with a big combination wrench when tightening the nut using a socket and torque wrench, to prevent the bolt from rotating and tearing off the steel inside the mount hole. The mount is mild carbon steel, the bolts are hard. I think the system design has proven to be reliable, most of the time, but incorrectly torquing the hardware can cause problems. I guess it would be smart to carry an extra equalizer and hardware, just in case, plus the required tools to change it out. It would not be easy. I have never heard of a properly torqued nut just falling off, there must have been a defect or the wrong kind of nut was installed. Proper lubrication is critical, even the EX Flex system might fail if run dry. How is this for scary? Geronimo John, we need to know how you got back down that fire road.... with more pictures if you have them. Where you able to fix it yourself or did you call Billy Bob’s Mountain Top AAA? One great thing about an Ollie - it will easily fit on a flat bed wrecker. John Davies Spokane WA

I appreciate the comments. I have had a general Umbrella Liability rider just about forever, it is currently $1,000,000. I don’t recall the exact premium amount, it is not exactly cheap. I have no clue how much a court case could award a damaged buyer, but I bet it could be many times that. I should ask my agent about increasing it. A waver sounds good. I will try to speak with sales tomorrow when I am stuck at home during our next @#$&* snow storm... John Davies Spokane WA

Here's Dexter's EZ Flex installation instructions for EZ Flex assembly installed on my Ollie. Look at page 3 lines 13 & 15 for torque values. https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/default-source/dexteraxle/product-documentation/installation-instructions/059-867-00_ez_flex_complete.pdf?sfvrsn=16 Dexter EZ Flex components can be purchased from E-Trailer, too.

Kathi, if you look on Oliver University (the last menu item under Travel Trailers on the website) you’ll find several downloadable PDFs for various dimensions for your trailer. Here's a direct link to the main measurement index.

I've been putting the filter back in also. I'd read the manual but didn't catch either where it said to leave it out. No damage, so maybe I've just been lucky. One thing I noticed after a short overnight freeze is that even though I thought I'd let the unit drain for a while, there was still a good bit of water in the filter area when I opened it up again the next morning. In fact, the next morning the filter was encased in a block of ice. After that, I discovered that there's a secret stash of water in the unit that will only come out if you open the relief valve while draining it. Now that I've been doing that I haven't noticed any water in the filter area the next day. I wouldn't be surprised if that isn't the real culprit, since I can't see Truma's tolerances being so tight that just having the filter in there would cause something to break. I mean, it's just a mesh basket after all.

EZ Flex Service Check: This past summer, I had Ollie going up a very steep four mile section of mountain road to a boondocking site. My tug was in first gear, 4-Low, rear axle locked, center diff locked. That section of road takes me an hour to transverse. Any suspension failures on this road would be a serious problem. Upon arrival, I was setting wheel chocks and noticed that the EZ flex heart bolt locking nut was gone, and the bolt itself was 85% out of the fixture. The only thing holding the EZ Flex in place was the weight of the trailer and a couple of threads. See the pictures below. Now as part of my lube process for the EZ Flex, I recommend you look carefully at the nut to ensure that it is in place, and that you have threads extending past the top of the nut. This could have been a nasty failure. These are "shackle bolts", and I have yet to find longer ones that I could double nut for safety and peace of mind. If you know of a supplier that has some, please let me know. Thanks

KWR - I certainly would want to watch the total amount of weight that you are loading on the "shelf". Surely the "Solo" should not weigh that much, but the Yeti 75 could get fairly heavy (loaded). Bill

To often we don't take the time to acknowledge a job well done. This week I dropped the trailer off at Oliver Service for several days of adding options and fixing a couple small items. I dropped it off on Tuesday morning after spending an 18 degree night sleeping behind the sales office (Thank you to Oliver for allowing this) and picked it up on Thursday. I was met Tuesday morning by both Jason and Richie to go over the list of things to be done. We went over each item since we were adding a few options (cell booster, WiFi booster, front basket, deck plate installed for access, purchasing Hypervent and purchasing several items for spares) that we did not have installed during the build. Also haveing 2 small items fixed that needed attention. Upon returning on Thurday Ritchie met me and went over the list of everything that was done to make sure nothing was missed then took me to the trailer to look over everything to make sure I was satisfied. I want to thank Jason, Ritchie, Justin, Bryan, and everyone else in service that I did not catch thier name that worked on or assisted with the trailer (including the young man that assisted with moving the trailer). Guys this is service done right! Your customer service and workmanship is something not found too often anymore. Its obvious these guys take pride in thier job. I am known to be kind of a picky person since I have been in a service business for 41 years. Oliver Service far exceeded my expectations and I want to say THANK YOU for a job well done!

@ Bill: Umbrella coverage riders are common and relatively inexpensive. I carry one due to living on a mountain side and also participating in extreme sports. I suspect that OTT owners tend to be a bit better off financially than most, and as such a would have resources that ought to be protected from such legal entanglements. Hence dropping a dime to ask their insurance carrier about an umbrella and its cost is worth more than a quarter. @ John D: Liability waivers are effective in the majority of states. We use them at 99.9% of our hang gliding and paragliding sites as a result. So far they have been effective in court scores of times. In my case, a pilot while on tow made critical errors and crashed. My Texas waiver was reviewed by USAA and they stood behind me as a result. The law suite was filed not by the pilot that crashed, but by his medical insurance provider OVER his objections. Same likely will happen to the OTT owner with the face plant incident. The lady likely will admit she was not rendering due care and fell. But her insurance company will go after the trailer owner and OTT as well. A liability waiver would at least even the playing field.

I have an unused pair of the doors (hatches). I was going to install myself and modify the compartment. By the time my unit was finished, the factory had modified how the compartment was laid out and had changed the wiring harness in there. They had added a 2 1/2" deep electrical box for the stabilizer jacks. This did not allow the tanks to move forward easily enough to justify the process. Also they had upgraded from a male/female umbilical plug from the tug. It was replaced by a heavier duty cable that would have to be moved. Maybe I will tackle the project someday, but I see diminished returns for effort at the moment...

John - I'm not a lawyer nor am I an insurance expert. However, I have been down this road before regarding liability issues (not directly with my Oliver though). While I'd be interested in hearing what someone with "expert" knowledge has to say on the subject, it would seem to me that in today's world it is prudent to have personal general liability insurance in addition to the normal home owner's and vehicle insurance that I assume virtually all Oliver owners carry. I doubt very seriously that Oliver Travel Trailers would be in a position to "cover" the insurance or costs for any of us that chose to show our campers to anyone - to include prospective buyers and/or referred contacts. Of course, if someone was injured while touring my camper I would assume that they would sue me and anyone else connected with the "showing" and this would include the entity with the deepest pockets - Oliver. I would also assume that a court would take into account both intent and possible negligence in any decision that they would render. Given some of the "crazy" decisions that we all have read about - who knows. But, within the bounds of my financial resources, I try to cover my liabilities as best I can while at the same time living my life in a sane and prudent manner and do not expect Oliver to cover insurance costs for things that they can not directly control. Bill

Steve As you probably know those are the same one that Oliver uses on the cabinet in the bathroom of the Elite II. This is where I first talked about them. There no modifications to the doors themselves. The holes were simply cut into the sides of the propane housing and the doors were glued in place. They have traveled 30 or 40 thousand miles with no issues. To cut the holes, I made a pattern of paper and taped it onto the sides. Using a hole saw, I drilled 4 holes for the corners. I don't recall the exact size for the hole saw, but I will be happy to look at them and let you know if you need that info. I drew lines along the edges of the 4 corner holes to connected them into a vertical rectangle. I then used a jigsaw to cut along the lines. If you need additional info, please feel free to ask. Interesting about your screen name, I once had a personalized license plate that was SCUBAS. All my technicians at work called me Scubasteve.

My bracket is 5 3/16" deep by 8 ¼" wide. About the other table styles, yes, I looked at the marine pedestal tables, but I thought that the Lagun was more versatile and easier to remove. And as it turns out, we don't ever take it down - we have good access to the beds with the table folded, and since my wife sleeps facing the wrong direction she uses it as her nightstand.

We went with the standard/king configuration. We use the rear of the trailer as the "head" of the bed, so although one doesn't have to crawl over the other, we do have to crawl into the bed.