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I have found my solution for the awkward plastic shower curtain supplied by Oliver when you purchase the full curtain track. I purchased a new fabric curtain, very thin and light weight. Then this is what I did: 1. Layer the new curtain flat on the floor with the plastic Oliver curtain on top. 2. Then I made allowance for finishing the edges. It must be doubled to hold the grommet. (See last photo) and cut the new curtain using the plastic curtain as my pattern plus finished edge allowance. 3. I used the existing little suction cups from the plastic curtain and attached them in the same position on the new curtain. 4. Next I placed the position of the grommets and attached them. (You can purchase a kit on line/practice first) 5. The only thing to do was check the length and shorten if necessary then hang. They are not quite perfect but they look better when not in use, they do the job and dry very quickly.

John, I gotta disagree. We went to Badlands NP last year and it was gorgeous. In western SD, I also recommend the Black Hills, especially Custer State Park. Pictures from Badlands:

I would echo the previous comments about western South Dakota. The Black Hills/Custer St. Park/Mt. Rushmore region is not to be missed if you haven't been there before. As for Yellowstone, try to avoid the Memorial Day weekend holiday (from Friday through Sunday). The park fills up with local and regional visitors. Memorial Day itself is not a bad day to check into Yellowstone, since most of the "locals" who occupy the park that weekend head back to their homes to go to work on Tuesday. Actually, anytime that week is not a bad time to be there with regard to crowds. However, be aware that you'll be in high elevations, and any type of weather can occur there that time of year (cold front with blizzards, or sunny and 70's in the daytime---it all can happen). It looks like you'll be heading west on I-90 from South Dakota, then south at Livingston, MT, on HWY 89. If that's the case, you'll be entering the park at the north gate at Gardiner, MT. If you truly are looking at just two days in late May for Yellowstone, camping is typically better on the north or west side of the park, as those areas receive less winter snowfalls and have typically melted out to a greater degree than the east and south regions of the park. If it were me, and I wanted to stay "in the park" as opposed to one of the gateways, with my entry point at Mammoth, I'd shoot to reserve two nights at the Madison Campground (14 miles east of the park's west entrance at West Yellowstone, MT). This is a concessioner-operated campground (Xanterra) and is reserve-able. If I actually had only one day to see the park, I would drive the "Lower Loop" of the park clockwise, from Madison, to Norris, to Lake, to Old Faithful, then back to Madison. That will afford you the opportunity to see most of the major sites in the park, and then you'll be positioned to exit the west gate on your way to Oregon. That loop drive will take you all day to complete (if you take time to make stops/take short hikes, and see much of major features). The reason I suggest the "clockwise" route is that you should reach the Canyon area mid morning when the lighting on the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone/Lower Falls is the best--truly spectacular. Likewise, you most likely won't reach the Old Faithful area until late afternoon, but that's good because most of the "midday" visitors to that area will be heading back to their various villages/gateway communities for the night. Thus, you'll miss the most crowded part of the day, and again, the late afternoon lighting is best in the geyser basins and through the Fountain Flats area. In case you haven't looked these up at, the NPS campground schedule can be found HERE And, here is a schedule for the Xanterra campgrounds: 2020 Campground Dates Campgrounds Opening 8am Closing 11am Bridge Bay Campground May 15 September 7 Canyon Campground May 22 September 20 Fishing Bridge RV Park Closed Closed Grant Village Campground June 5 September 13 Madison Campground April 24 October 18 Sorry for the lengthy comments, but hope they help. Have a great trip!!!

I am OK with Shark Bite push fittings, other than their extreme cost, but much prefer their excellent crimp type rings. They are stainless ratcheting and dead easy to install with their tool. They will work with any standard pex fitting and can be removed with a twist of a pair of pliers. They are about $5 for ten rings. This type of ring is perfect for home and irrigation use, up to 1” diameter. https://www.sharkbite.com/products/stainless-steel-clamp-ring If you go with the push fittings be sure to follow instructions as to seating depth. Use their pipe cutter to get a square clean end and BEVEL THE END. If you don’t, it might cut the oring and possibly leak. They say you can reuse fittings but I personally would not trust it. I have made perhaps 150 pex and irrigation connections over the years. The only leaks resulted from push to install fittings. One proved to be very costly to repair. I would never ever use one in a hidden location like inside a wall! John Davies Spokane WA

Hello all, My name is John and I currently own a 2018 Casita Liberty Deluxe, which my wife and I love. We may be full timing soon and might be in need of a slightly larger FG trailer. We really want a 4 season trailer. The Olivers seem to be the best but are very expensive. We've not seen one yet but are impressed with the reviews and the pictures/videos. I'll need to start with an upgraded tow vehicle. We are looking at the 2019 Nissan Titan king cab. If our home sells we'll probably go to Tennessee to visit the Oliver factory and make our decision then. Thanks for the add to your website 🙂

Thanks John 🙂

Welcome. Unless you are especially attracted to the 2019 Titan, you should check out the 2020 model, it is completely redesigned inside and out with more power and much better tech. For full timing with an Elite II the XD version would be much more suitable. https://www.tfltruck.com/2019/11/2020-nissan-titan-and-titan-xd-hold-the-line-on-towing-specs-between-9370-11000-lbs-news/ John Davies Spokane WA

Hi John. We sold our house, ordered an Ollie and have put over 30,000 miles on ours in 17 months. It is built like a tank and tows like a dream. It is perfect for full timing and seeing our beautiful country. Oliver’s don’t seem to be built to a price point which is rare now a days. In my opinion nothing on the market can touch it in quality not to mention the service you receive at any price. Try to make the Oliver rally in May. We did before ordering ours and it was so much fun and informative.

Hi John, welcome! I highly recommend a factory tour. You will learn a great deal and understand why Oliver’s are more expensive. A Nissan Titan should do fine as a TV. We’re currently camped just south of Durango, CO and it got down to 15 degrees last night. We were quite warm, we are not winterized and had no issues. Four seasons verified! Mike

Don't know. They have a price list on their website that says ~$5 per fitting, but Fergusson may have it cheaper.

Don’t forget if Oliver installs it, it will carry their warranty and that is worth a lot. I chose to install solar myself to save some money. I must say for the time and aggravation, I don’t think it was worth it and wished I had Oliver install it. Andrew

Mainiac's idea is a good one - I use a sleeping bag. However, I also have a fitted sheet under the sleeping bag and even a mattress pad under that. There are a number of "posts" here on the Forum that discuss various sources for sheets that fit. However, mine was just a plain old twin mattress sheet that was altered slightly to fit the slightly smaller size of the Oliver mattress. With the mattress pad I use four ( one on each corner) of those elastic sheet tighteners to take up the slack. https://www.amazon.com/Suspenders-Adjustable-Fasteners-Grippers-Mattress/dp/B07BLPWKDS/ref=sr_1_9?crid=NJ12MPTHLHXQ&keywords=elastic+sheet+corner+fasteners&qid=1579357449&sprefix=elastic+sheet%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-9 Bill

Yes, those guys in Service are amazing. I had a small spot (about 1.5 inches in diameter) on the roof that needed repair. After they were done I can't really tell exactly where the damage was. However, just as with a re-painted car, many times the color simply will not match exactly and in the right light it will look different either due to the color or the sheen as Overland points out. Bill

Initially I slept with my head under the TV/by the nightstand/at the stern. But, the nightstand and curve of the shell restricted my elbows when I wanted to put my hand(s) under my head. So, I switched positions and now my elbows are happy. Bill

Welcome to the group, and congrats on the new Ollie. I think you'll still want an inverter generator. They produce cleaner power that's kinder to your electronics, and control boards of your onboard equipment. The ac is about the only thing that I doubt you could manage without a bigger generator than a Honda 1000i, which is light, easy to use, and very quiet and efficient. And, probably the kuerig, but I don't know the wattage, as I don't own one. There are other ways to make a great cup of coffee without electricity.

I really have no interest in revealing what I sold my Oliver for, or any of the other things I've sold previously. I agree that it is interesting to someone in the market, but the tools are there already to understand the general market conditions and to watch listed items enough to get a good idea of the pricing. It really is nobody's business, beyond the buyer and seller involved in the transaction. And I have no obligation to try to influence any negotiations for anything sold in the future. When my sale is complete, my interest in the market is mostly gone, and future sale prices are not my business. Market trends yes, but not specific deals. Do your own research. Make your own deals. If you are interested in a particular model, watch for them to show up in the classifieds. Look at the year, the equipment list, and general condition. See how long it takes them to sell and how the asking price may change during that period. Take into account how rare they are and where they are located. Balance the benefits and problems associated with buying new vs buying used. This is simple market research that is outside the actual negotiations. Negotiations are not done in public. The final agreed to price is an acceptable compromise to both parties and has factors that often don't fit a simple chart of market values. Such as selling to a friend, selling because of health issues, or financial issues. Sending it to a "good home", or selling it in a hurry. Again, it's nobody's business but the two parties involved, so keep the negotiations between the buyer and seller. Don't share the price with the general public unless both parties agree that it is OK to do so. Another annoyance is the demand by people to know "why are you selling it?". Should I be expected to convince a buyer that it's OK for me to sell something, or reveal personal information, before we can enter into a negotiation? Finally, if someone is interested in buying something from another person, they should attempt to develop a personal connection with that person. This is the best path to getting more information and getting the best price. Be polite. Don't try to low-ball with an insulting offer, take responsibility for your decisions, instead of just scoffing at the price. For example, instead of putting it down as too expensive, suggest that it is beyond your budget. Instead of pointing to every flaw and making a big deal of it, simply say you might keep looking for one that will require less work. Or just share that you prefer a different layout. During communications, especially with texts, always identify yourself and say hi. Don't just go to the cold message and expect everyone to know who you are, or care. I often don't bother to respond to unidentified texts as I think they are rude. Rudeness doesn't make me want to negotiate. But if someone identifies who they are and says Hi, I am glad they got in touch.

Up on the Roof.... Spend the last few days up on the roof of #145 waxing and checking seals. Found that the MaxxAir fan seals were cracked and worn. Removed the old and applied new sealant. I used Loctite PL Marine Adhesive Sealant. It was a bit expensive..... about $9 for this small tube. But went on very easy, dried quick and appears to be a tough, durable seal. Pics attached.... Be careful up there. Scotty

Nothing goes in our sink drain that would cause a clog. Dishes are scraped and wiped clean, and we use a strainer on the drain to catch anything else. Something in our plumbing is defying the laws of physics.

We have had the hypervent since we took delivery of our Elite II. Never had an issue with condensation or mold. In my opinion, hypervent works very well.

I took delivery this past August and had the exact same curbside light problem as Overland. I never saw water inside the trailer but, when I arrived a my destination after driving the last four hours in the rain, both porch lights were so dim I had to turn them off and on a couple of times to see if they were even working. The attaching screws on the rear light had been sealed but the wire penetration had been over looked. I assumed water had gotten in and shorted the wiring somewhere because the lights worked again after a dry day. An actual water leak was the vent fan in the bath. One of the two hood screws wasn't/couldn't be tighten down all the way due to a mfg. defect in the fan assembly. Also, the foam seal was deformed and only partially effective but the leak was definitely coming from the screw because it only occurred when the trailer was stationary. These were both relatively minor issues I took care of myself.

We have Hull #135 and don’t have any leaks. We picked up in May 2016. I tried the drip guards around the windows but had bad timing with a weather change before the adhesive set (80 degree weather to 30 degree weather in 12 hours). Some of them curled up so I took them all off. I also removed the drip guard behind the awning as all it seemed to do was collect leaves and twigs and other debris that made cleaning a chore. Mike

FrankC - I really do not see a design issue here. Virtually all RV's have holes in them that must be sealed in some manner - usually caulk. One of the benefits of the Oliver design is that with an inner and outer shell, there are times when any leak through the outside shell will simply "flow" between the shells and out the scupper holes in the bottom. There is virtually no wood to rot, mildew or grow fungus on either. While some of the leaks reported here on the Forum were more than likely caused by the lack of proper sealing at the factory during production, many others have been caused by a simple lack of proper inspection and/or maintenance by the owner. Of course, either way a leak is a leak and can be very frustrating to find and stop. Your mention of Dri-Dek has almost nothing to do with leaking. In fact, it has more to do with the Oliver being so sealed and tight that moisture/humidity simply can not escape from the interior without measures to reduce it. Primarily this product has been used under mattresses so that the moist air emitted from our bodies can escape from under the mattress. However, there are a number of ways that this "problem" has been attacked. Insulation directly under the mattress, simply lifting the mattress to ventilate that area each day, sleeping while in a vertical position (just kidding), have all been used for this purpose. Finally, the sliding windows on Olivers can leak for a couple of reasons. If the windows were not properly installed, if the "weep holes" are not clear or if there is a huge amount of rain directed at a window, can all cause leaks. Of these the most prominent is the maintenance of the weep holes. I own an Elite II, hull number 117 and have been fortunate enough to have never had a leak (that I know of). I check all places where water could enter at least once a year, repairing as necessary, and clean my window weep holes at least a half dozen times a year - particularly when I've camped under some shedding trees or driven down some nasty dirt roads. Most of these same maintenance procedures should be taken with all RV's and since the Oliver has no seams those potential points of leakage are eliminated as compared to all non-molded fiberglass trailers. Bill

Composting toilet - just buy it, you will fall in love with it. Put all paper products into a small 3 gallon flip lid wastebasket. It fits neatly between toilet and vanity. Spritz the front bowl area two or three squirts after peeing. The vinegar kills the odor and rinses the bowl. Poo is not an issue, normally it drops straight down onto the compost. If you get the runs your toilet will not like that. For your height issue, there is a floor ledge that sticks out in front of the base. Climb up, set your feet there and no worries. Or you can get a small step and stash it behind the toilet when not in use. My wife is 5'6" and has no problems. For a boondocker the NH toilet is simply wonderful, just get used to the quirks. Not having to find an open dump station and wait for fifteen minutes is priceless. If you camp off season, this is a huge factor since many close down when freezing night time weather arrives. Around here that means late October. Plus it saves a bunch of your potable water. If you decide that you hate it, sell it on Craigslist for $400 and buy a flush toilet. All the plumbing and the tank is in place. Installation of a standard RV toilet would be very simple. Camera; you NEED a backup camera when solo, no question. It is not just for backing into a site. It is useful in heavy traffic too. You might want to invest in a different system. I already use and really like the Garmin RV660 gps and I mounted a Garmin backup camera. The gps will accept up to four wireless camera inputs. Resolution is low but entirely adequate. ... https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=w0sjNmRQFR3N58uLaMpMR8 http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-install-a-garmin-bc-30-backup-camera/ Hot water heater: get the standard unit, leave it turned off until you need some hot water. Turn it on for fifteen or twenty minutes and it heats up enough for one person. It is cheap to replace or service and is generally very reliable. We just run ours 24/7. It does not use that much propane and we have the big gas tanks.... if we do plug in, it switches over the shore power if the outside switch near the bottom is turned to "ON". John Davies Spokane WA

Jaque - I hated the part of ordering that you are going through now. So many choices and trying to think of all the possibilities versus the monies being spent. I went with the standard toilet. I too travel much of the time solo. When not boondocking there are virtually always toilets nearby for poo. When boondocking I have a shower tent and a collapsible toilet that uses those bags Heather mentioned. That system works great, uses no "on-board" water and is easily disposed of. On long trips, I do carry a small "blue" portable tank in the event I need to make more room in the black tank - just be careful to not put too much "stuff" in the portable tank so that I can lift it to a regular toilet for emptying if necessary. While intriguing, I found the composting toilet to be expensive and uncomfortable versus the benefits. I didn't go with the factory camera system for two reasons. First, I thought that it was a bit expensive. Second, I simply didn't want another screen in the cockpit of my truck. At delivery I added a small camera located in the upper half of the spare tire cover that transmits signal via WiFi to my tablet or phone. It works great except for when it rains - the camera picks up too much road spray to see tailgaters. The water heater is another one of those return for the money things. Basically $1,000 for instant gratification? Like KountryKamper, I too believe that the winterization is no big deal and servicing while on the road is easier. For small things like dishes, I simply heat water in a pot on the stove. For showers I almost always use a solar shower and the shower tent I mentioned above. This is a great way to save water, room in your grey tank and propane that would have been used to heat the water. When I really do need to use the shower in the camper I do not allow the water heater to heat the water to its maximum. I posted a thread some time ago on my system of using a meat thermometer with remote readout to monitor the water heater temperature and turn off the heater when it hits about 106 degrees. Then when taking a shower I do not need to mix cold water with the hot to get the correct temp and I can take a shower easily before the water starts getting too cold. I will edit this post if I can find a link to that thread. Finally, I'm no help to you regarding the generator. Almost always when I have needed air conditioning I have been able to use a campground that had electric hookup. Even camping this summer out West when daytime temperatures hit highs of 108 degrees, the lack of humidity plus the decline in temps overnight provided easy sleeping. Other than that the solar panels kept my batteries fully charged each day. Good luck on these "final" decisions of yours. Either way you decide on virtually any of the options, I'm sure that you will be happy with your Oliver. These campers are just so easy to travel with. Bill

Never a problem with the .02 cents here - the more the merrier. Rugged - yes. 4 season - yes. -20 degree F - (in my opinion) no. Or, did you mean simply 20 degrees F? There are not many places in the continental US that get to -20F, at least for very long. I simply can't imagine trying to camp in that temperature. Heck, the coldest I've ever been in was -16 and the door seals on my BMW were very stiff. I guess that in the event you were stuck out someplace and the temps did get that low, you could get away with the procedure that you describe, but I sure would not want to do that for very long. Bill