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I was looking at the new owners photos taking delivery. I noticed that Oliver went back to break away chain’s instead of cables. If so, good change out,

Traveling at night is not safe for man nor beast. We were returning from a wonderful trip to California to admire the ocean and red woods and frolic with some friends. Our plan was to take three days to travel from California to Denver. When we passed Green River, WY on the second day, I (under the influence of that dumbing agent called testosterone) decided to drive into the night so we could reach Denver without having to camp in the beautiful Water Pocket Fold area near Green River. At about 9 pm traveling 65 mph on I-70 through Silverthorne, CO (one hour from home) a moose decided to introduce itself to our Grand Cherokee. All I remember is hearing a bang and seeing a moose’s head smash into the passage side door window where Marcia was setting. The Jeep instantly moved about 4 feet sideways, all power shut down (lights, engine, power steering, power brakes) alarms and warnings started flashing and blaring, the side airbags deployed, and Marcia screamed. How I kept the Jeep and trailer from crashing is still a mystery. After making sure Marcia was not hurt too bad, I focused on coasting the Jeep about a mile to the Silverthorne exit, which included a construction zone (two lanes narrowed down to one). Luckily, I had enough momentum to get off the exit and into a Safeway Parking lot. I learned that it is very, very hard to steer and brake the Jeep pulling a 6,000 lbs trailer when the power steering and brakes are no longer working. The long and short of it is that the Jeep was totaled, the Oliver was fine, moose was killed, and Marcia had minor bruising from the airbags. I really feel bad about the moose. I hope this lesson on the stupidity of driving at night during our travels doesn’t fade as time passes.

Camping certainly does not come without its challenges. 👍🏻😊

There are now companies that make "Andersen style" blocks https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Yellow-Stabilizer-Jack-Support/dp/B076BRXLL4/ref=pd_sbs_263_4/146-3628680-5199367?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B076BRXLL4&pd_rd_r=71c9b40e-198c-475a-b9ed-9cbd9f75047a&pd_rd_w=E3FuD&pd_rd_wg=fXUek&pf_rd_p=7cd8f929-4345-4bf2-a554-7d7588b3dd5f&pf_rd_r=5JHMKC2MAS7W7H987HJN&psc=1&refRID=5JHMKC2MAS7W7H987HJN And "Andersen style" ramps https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-2-Pack-Camper-Leveler-Handles/dp/B076X5W1LZ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=CW2VBL2WAZ9K&keywords=andersen+levelers&qid=1581523807&sprefix=andersen+%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-8 that are much less expensive as compared to the Andersens. Bill

There are good reasons for picking a flush toilet over a composting one, but ease of use is definitely not one of them. It may seem that way, since it's a foreign routine to learn, but in practice, it's nothing. There's real work involved with a flush toilet. I've counted my blessings many times while watching people at the dump station dealing with sewage. In fact, the most annoying thing about composting toilets is having to wait at the dump station behind someone who doesn't have one, just to fill up with water. 🤢 🤬 😛

That's a subject of some debate. I suggest you search for some older discussions on the matter. LOL, also a very good question. We only carry chocks and blocks. The chocks you'll need no matter what, and whatever blocks you use for the jacks is up to you. We have the lego style, which I think are too heavy and bulky, but they work. I like the Andersen bucket style blocks, but I refuse to buy anything from that family. Our blocks have a spot in the back of the truck bed by the tailgate and our chocks go into one of the storage bins on our Leitner rack, along with a mallet to help knock them loose from under the tires when packing up.

Mark, I was like you before picking up our Oliver. Never pulled a trailer, and had never visited a dump station. I did a bunch of research online, and here are some of the pearls of wisdom from my notes. To answer your specific questions: The whole process probably takes 10 minutes. I have rarely had to wait in a line to dump at state and national parks, which is where we mostly camp. Sometimes there is a small line, and as @Mike and Carol said, be prepared to that you can be as quick as possible. If you want a composting toilet, by all means get it; but I would not make that decision based on long lines for tank dumping. Also, with a composting toilet you will still need to dump your grey tank. You don't need to dump the black tank every time you dump your grey tank. You want to let your black tank be at least 3/4 full before dumping, and you want to have your grey tank pretty full, to use the grey water as a rinse for the sewer hose. If you are dumping the black tank, then do it first. Then the grey tank which provides the rinse water for the sewer hose. There are a lot of forum threads on what is the best type of sewer hose, but everyone agrees that you want to have a clear plastic elbow so that you can visually see that the water is clear and thus the rinse is complete. If you are going to do a black tank rinse, you should do it after the black tank dump, and before the grey tank dump. I read somewhere that one should rinse the black tank every other time you dump the black tank, and I usually follow that advice. Like @Mike and Carol said, if I am going to do a black tank rinse, I will do it twice. Also you want to buy a dedicated black tank hose that is a different color than your fresh water hoses. You should also get a Y-connector so that you can connect your black tank hose to the campground water supply without disconnecting the fresh water supply. I saved some links when I was researching on best dumping practice, including this website, and two YouTube Videos: The Oliver design makes all of this easier, as there is a dedicated water inlet for the black tank flush, and the rear bumper is designed to store your sewer hoses. You probably do not want to do your first tank dump in a situation where people might be waiting, where perceived peer pressure might force a mistake. Dump your tanks the first few times at a campground with full hookups, so you don't have to hurry. Make yourself a step-by-step checklist. Don't stress about it! Soon you will be a pro!

Good evening from Florida's beautiful Big Bend. We are new to the group our build date is scheduled for tomorrow. Picking up Hull 620 in mid April. Looking forward to beginning our Ollie journey!

The chains/cables being discussed here are designed to be able to keep the tow vehicle and trailer attached to each other in the event of some type of failure of the hitch system (i.e. the hitch receiver, the hitch itself, the bulldog coupler assembly, the front of the frame of the trailer, etc.) This is why these are sometimes referred to as "safety chains/cables". Bill

I agree wholeheartedly.

??? I don’t find the cables to be a problem, I do like how they stay off the ground and don’t rattle. I do not like how you cannot crisscross them under the ball. What especially was the issue with your cables? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Good morning guys. Yes the state of Tennessee now requires that any trailer manufactured in TN have safety chains. Thus, the switch back to chains. - Phil A.

We did not choose the composting toilet as an option for our current option/build sheet for a lot of reasons and some of which were mentioned above. For our needs using a black tank far out weighs the work and effort of all that is required in using, cleaning and maintaining a compost toilet. There are a few very interesting YouTube University videos on the composting toilets you may want to watch before deciding on one. I usually use the term “do a deep dive” when suggesting due diligence or research on a topic. In this case I won’t.

Hi, Nan. I want to find a way to do the lagun mount in the small dinette, that won't be in the way, and will allow me to use the small dinette tabletop as a standup , counterheight, foldout top for prep and work. I think i may have figured it out. The issue is the small space, and no access for backing plate and bolts on an older trailer on the street side. Our south side compartment is chock full of electronics,chargers, etc.. I may be able to mount it on the north side, outboard, and still have room for our legs under the table. We keep the big dinette set up as a bed. The small dinette is our only indoor table. Maybe, Another few mornings of coffee in the trailer, thinking and sketching, will get me there. And then, time . This year, we're upgrading 200 watts of solar on the trailer to 400, and adding 600 watts solar and a hardtop bimini to the boat. We've exhausted time, mostly on the boat, with solar and a dozen other repairs and upgrades to our 40 year old fiberglass boat. And, weve had dozens of northern houseguests-friends and family- very welcome visitors who have interrupted the processes, but we wouldn't have it any other way. I'll look forward to your photos of Foy's table top. He does such beautiful work! We're so fortunate to have him in our group. Sherry

Once, when leaving a private campground, there was a line at the dump station. I asked the host if I could use an emptied full service sewer site to dump? He said sure, it all goes to the same place. Not sure all host would see it that way, but it doesn't hurt to ask, and they might like the idea that you don't hold up the line. Usually they like to empty the campsites early so they can clean and get ready for the next influx. Make sure you "police" the site so they feel good about letting you do that. Leave it nicer than you found it...

Dumping is such a great topic! 🤪 We’ve never had much of a problem. These are things I try to keep in mind... If I’m going to go to a dump station where there may be others I ensure I’m ready with everything handy before I get there. I put my gloves, flush hose and sewer hose end where I can get them quickly and not have to unload my basement to get to them. If there isn’t a line I always do a black tank rinse or two after dumping black. If there is someone waiting it’s pretty easy to judge of they will mind if you do a rinse. Of course, that’s assuming there’s a hose hookup available. A frustration last trip at a state park was that there was a rinse hose but it had no screw end and it was one of those elevated things so I couldn’t reach to unscrew the short hose and attach mine. If we’re at a full hook up site, then there is no problem at all, just do your dumping at your leisure! If my black tank is not very full, I use the black tank flush to fill it to about 80% then dump. Once empty I fill the black tank to about 80% and dump again. It’s usually pretty clear but usually do it a third time and it’s always clear. Then I dump the gray tank. It helps the gray tank to drain faster if the tongue of the trailer is a bit higher than the back. I’ve never had an issue with impatience from those waiting to dump. Occasionally there will be someone who makes a mess and doesn’t clean up well which can be aggravating. We’ve met some interesting folks while waiting to dump! It’s also good to remember that there are other places to dump. Pick up the Allstays Dump app. On our way home last week after staying at a COE campground with no hookups and no dump station we dumped at a rest stop on I-10 in Texas. Clean and nobody there. Mike

Oh this sounds like fun!

I agree, it's 100% a better location, and making the brackets would be a breeze for Oliver to do. This mod is a lot like the flip up counter extension - once you've lived with it for a trip then you can't imagine the trailer without it.

I am hoping enough people keep posting about adding the Lagun table on the side and Oliver makes it a option. I have seen some beautiful craftsmanship added to the Lagun set up. Very nice!

Perhaps a mini-rally in Western NC? Or, at the very least a "meet-up" at 12 Bones? Bill

I'm actually surprised at the number if people in rvs who have chaged out to nature's head and other composting toilets. They make so much sense on boats, where pumpout can be difficult to find, and awkward. Jo, you can change out later, if you find the rv dump system isn't to your liking , or doesn't meet your needs. It's not that hard, as I've read. We still have the standard toilet and dump system, 12 years in. I'm totally onboard with the nature's head, but til something breaks, we'll stay with what we already own and have. I've seen the nature's head, at shows, love the simplicity, and ine day, I'm sure one of the heads on the boat, at least, will be converted. Dumping isn't rocket science, nor is it as bad as Robin Williams made it look. If this is your first rv, take a bit of time to discover your camping style, and what works for you. Ditto on the portable rhino/ blue boy. We've never felt the need for one, in 12 years of camping without hookups.

Jason Walmsley migrated the forum to a new platform last October. The forum is so much better, faster, better features, and much better search tools. However, I have found that many of the links I had saved to forum pages no longer work. Sometimes I can find them by using the Forum Search box with the words from the title of the post (which are found in the link). Sometimes that does not work, and that seems to be the case with the bullnose hitch lock. But I did a google search and I think I found John Davies' original post on a website called sourcesoftsolution, https://forumtest.sourcesoftsolutions.com/topic/1331-bullnose-hitch-lock/ .

As local hosts who are showing our Oliver 2-3 times a month, I finally built this list of some of the top items people buy for their new Oliver. Maybe this is useful to pending/new owners: Click the link to go to the Amazon list...which includes comments for each item with regards to how it works or fits for Oliver trailers: Oliver Trailer Outfitters list on Amazon Craig & Rose Hull 505 -Galway Girl

Friends of ours bought a screen room in the early 2008 days. It was a huge production to install it, and break it down. They only wound up using it if they stayed somewhere at least a couple weeks. Changed my mind on the whole screen room idea. We bought a separate screen structure, which was a little less of a pain, but we still didn't use it. I'd highly recommend looking at a quick deploy screen room like a clam. Sherry

Is this screen room for the Dometic what you were thinking about? https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/climate/rv-awnings/rv-awning-accessories/dometic-veranda-room-_-164343 Bill

Bill that is correct regarding the igniter, easily removable without removing the entire enchilada out of the compartment. At the time though for what ever reason I was convinced the issue was most likely with the sail switch, rather than igniter. At least in my case, there were other extraneous and very good reasons for removing and repairing some issues due to some very poor installation methods. It is worth noting the entire casing due to the wobbly mounting frame below did not provide for a stable installation which might have created more shock and rattle to the internal parts than was necessary or desired. Also worth pointing out, with two calls to the Suburban tech support for clarification on certain issues I found them to be extremely helpful. The people went to great lengths to explain the wiring, installation and other things regarding the furnace. Also if you notice in the photos I have applied some heavy duty red tape, (not to be confused with the tape inside the furnace) to the cutout hatches. Those openings have some raw exposed fiberglass rough edges and after cutting my arms and hands a few times I finally resorted to taping the edges each of those access hatches. Made a huge difference and would encourage anyone else to do the same. Thanks

You can make your own plastic scraper.... buy a scrap of 1/4” or 3/8” thick plexiglass at Lowes and cut it with a saw to a handy size, say 2” wide by 4 “ long. Use a belt sander to sand a 45 degree cutting edge on one side (run the belt away from the cutting edge so melted plastic does not build up there). Curve the sharp ends if you want to eliminate gouging. Curve and radius the end that goes in your palm so it is comfy. When the scraping edge gets dull, touch it up on the sander. I have scrapers of various sizes in my tool box that are over 40 years old, made from scraps of busted aircraft windshields and windows. They last forever.... well, almost. If you know an A&P, ask him to save you a piece of broken window. Plastic scrapers can quickly wreck pretty gelcoat, I don’t recommend using one unless there is no other way. Always use a lubricating solution, either soapy water or a mild solvent that won’t attack the plastic. Dry scraping just scratches! John Davies Spokane WA

This year we have taken 2 - 5000 mile trips and during each we have had people tailgating us or riding in the left lane next to the trailer trying to figure out what brand the trailer is. Sometimes this has happened in major traffic like going through the Boston area and I find it very nerve racking. Since the rear Oliver sign is not lighted up during the daytime and our trailer has the older smaller graphics, I decided to add a "Oliver" and "Made in Tennessee" to the spare tire cover so hopefully people will stop tailgating. Had them made at a local sign shop. ?

That is so true. I specifically asked for no side graphics - I did not want the two Nike Swooshes, but did want the name. At delivery I discovered that they left off the name. I got so tired of people asking if it was some kind of Casita, that I ordered the logos and put them on last week. I do like the look with no stripes but with the Oliver name. John Davies Spokane WA

I think that there just might be a bit of apples and oranges here. Of course, I could be the one that is a bit confused - not that it has ever happened before. I was unaware that "Sharkbite" made what appears to be "regular" plumbing supplies versus the ones that Mountainborn talked about in his original post - those are fittings that basically do not need tools such as crimpers and stainless/copper bands. I believe that ScubaRx is talking about the latter while DavidS is talking about the former. For an emergency kit, the tooless Sharkbite fittings make a bunch of sense and are less costly too (considering the cost of the tools involved, unless of course you happen to already own them). Either way the bottom line is the same - be prepared. Bill