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Well I’m sold. Nothing but artisanal pipe cleaners for my Ollie. 😛

Personally I go with Dr. Grabow pipe cleaners. Then again that’s my last name and I do have a PhD. No relation. The plant is inSparta NC and the name was “borrowed” randomly from a dentist in Chicago. They started up during WW2 when briar wood from Europe was hard to get. They substituted mountain laurel. They are sort of known as low-end pipes. Oh well.

Topgun2, that's a good thread over on fgrv. Thanks for the link. Patriot, I don't know why a search on "first aid" comes up with nothing. Didn't work for me, either, in various combinations. Here's a link to an old thread on First Aid kits that you may find useful. I, too, think it's helpful to build your own, but a small commercial kit isn't a bad place to start. We have several kits we've built, in various sizes and complexity, that we carry, depending on the trip. Red cross is currently offering a small discount on many of its online classes in first aid and cpr for anyone who wants to take a refresher course, but doesn't need a card. https://www.redcross.org/take-a-class/online-safety-classes/all-online-classes And, American Heart Association sells a cpr home training kit, complete with Mini Anne dummy, online. https://cpr.heart.org/en/cpr-courses-and-kits/cpr-anytime Thought I might mention these, since some of us have some time on our hands these days... Sherry

I enlarged the weep holes and added rain gutters above the windows, so I will just have see what happens once we get back to actually using Ollie. My back up are towels inside - to wick up the water......... those sideways, wind driven, rains are going to drive water inside - regardless. Its the design - stupid (me) . Of course I'm looking for a source for "Artisanal" towels, not to be out coutured by Overland. 😉

I believe it was John Davies that did a post about first aid kits a number of months ago. Perhaps he will chime in on this topic. Back (way back) when I was a life guard I was jealous of the couple of other guards that got a chance to use their training for CPR. All I ever got was the chance to swim blankets out into the surf in order to provide a cover for those ladies that had lost their tops in the waves 😁. Bill

Thank you! This is awesome! You have a gift for accurate technical writing and precise documentation. This will be big help to a bunch of us. Thanks again.

EDIT 04/14/22: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6781-how-to-service-your-rear-electric-jacks/ I have never opened up a jack, they are all starting to get a little loud so I decided to service the front one. I don't remember them being this loud when new: .... Oliver Tongue Jack Operating Sound Here is the manufacturer page: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Component_Manuals/Stabilizing_Jacks/vip3000_Electric_Jack_Manual.pdf The rear jacks are similar to the tongue jack, except they do not have the plastic cover with light and switches. For the tongue jack only, can open up the gearbox area without removing the head, but you are supposed to lube the drive pin where it connects to the vertical tube, so you might as well unbolt the top and take it to a workbench. Unplug the 30 amp slo-blow fuse inside the waterproof holder. Cut any tie wraps. This is the 12 volt power wire, the ground happens through the jack body and trailer frame. NOTE: there is another fuse in back under the street side bed, I am not sure why there are two fuses. Can anyone comment? Use an Allen wrench and unscrew the three countersunk set screws a couple of turns - they are spaced along the base of the head unit. Lift the head off and set it aside. Here is the drive coupling down inside the tube, with the factory lube. It looks fine. Here is the head socket, showing the pin that fits down into that coupling: FYI it is possible to drive the pin out. There is a 1/4" access hole in the side of the cavity. I did not want to disturb it, for fear of damaging the plastic bearing support behind to it. You need to get some slack in the wires so you can slide the cover assembly out of the way. Remove the rubber boot/ nut that holds the Up/ Down switch into the cover, pull it in and let it dangle: Remove the yellow ground wire and pry out the rubber grommet that contains the three wires. Slide it up toward the switches. This will allow the gearbox cover to slide upwards. Remove the other three bolts. CAREFULLY wiggle the lid and pull it off. John Davies Spokane WA

Last fall we had a condensation issue with the fan that caused the lid drive motor to open and close on it’s own without use doing anything. I pulled the fuse and after we returned home I removed the circuit board and took care of any water issues with all electrical parts. The fan has been working correctly since then until last weekend. After removing the circuit board, I ran a bench test on all of it's functions, I discovered the lid drive motor circuit was putting out a constant close signal. Because of this constant close signal that is why the motors gear assembly broke, it just kept trying to close the lid. Since we have had the trailer almost 5 years I just order a complete new unit from Camping World. I will salvage all of the old parts that are worth keeping.

We spent a little more time with the options. * Wife says she can see best out of the options in this order: GM HD, Ford Super Duty with adjustable pedals, and GM 1500s. I think she just likes driving a huge truck 🙂 * The highest payload for the 1500 (with tech+diesel) is in the Chevy LTZ - Found one with 1600lbs.. GMC only offers the diesel in the AT4 (100lbs less GVWR) and Denali (many heavy options, and often come fully loaded with ultimate package). * Between the Chevy and GM HD: we prefer the GM based on the front end look, the amber side markers (more visible in the PNW gloom), and the multipro tailgate is the easiest to use step out there. If we got a crazy deal on the Chevy, we'd probably be fine with that too. * GM HD trucks in the 2500 series are actually very usable. CCSB has a GVWR of 11,350 lbs (whereas most 3/4 tons top out at 10k). Our example was in the mid 3000s of payload with a Diesel. The 3500 CCSB is 12,100 lbs GVWR. So it does give some extra headroom, but it isn't as necessary as Ford/RAM where the 2500 diesels may be under 2000lbs of payload. * Within the GMC line (SLE->SLT->AT4->Denali) we like the AT4's appearance the best. In the HD line the AT4 doesn't actually have anything above the SLT X31 or Denali in terms of offroad prowess - same ride height, springs, hill descent, tires, etc... What the AT4 does have is a chrome delete which makes me a fan. Seems other people agree as the AT4 has no rebates, but the SLT and Denali do. End result? Denalis are cheaper than AT4s. * Generally we prefer lighter colored vehicles for visibility, but the AT4 does look good in black, but the white storm trooper look is also nice. But at this point, it's cheaper to buy a Denali and swap in the AT4 grill. But, since I am cheapo I'll probably just get an SLT+Tech+X31 and call it a day. When I find my first elk or deer, it'll be time to swap.

Interestingly, there is presently a "First Aid" discussion going on over on the FGRV Forum. If you are interested: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/rv-first-aid-kit-s-91919.html Bill

Interesting topic. I have always carried some sort of first aid kit, its my Boy Scout training - at an early age. I have found over time, the need to update the kits, is forgotten - mostly due to lack of use - a good thing. I have probably updated my original "wilderness" kit 3-4 times, and similar to the travel kit. Given our new paradigm I probably need to review what we have in the various kits. If I were honest, I'm behind here. The mention of training really hits home, I'm positive some relearning would be in order for me and mine. Preparation is the best preventative I've discovered, certainly keeps "fate" at bay. As I have been told - Failure to plan, is a plan to fail - I prefer to put together my own kits, and keep them stored in waterproof containers, in individual segments, so I can take the essential's on hikes, and such, and yet still have a large comprehensive kit if needed. I have a small ancient kit - updated -just for short hikes near the house, it goes in the backpack - just in case. Haven't needed it since I started carrying it, problem is, I don't carry anything when I run. Living on the edge...... has its risks.

😂 Bill, you were the man for the job!

We got this one just before we went to Hohenwald to pick up our trailer. About $40. We haven’t had to use it much, fortunately! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DQY776/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A basic kit gives you most of what you may need bandaids, etc. i also carry over the counter items alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, triple antibiotic ointment, also over the counter meds aspirin, Tylenol, Benadryl etc. your kit should ad any personal items you may need. Speaking to your local fire station or Ems service also helps. I have been seriously considering a portable AED not only for myself but for anyone who might need it. Help sometimes can be a long way away.

Not sure you might need such an expensive kit, unless you have the training to use? At Sportsman Guide you can get some military surplus kits that are relatively extensive, there is usually even surgical kits. We carry a small kit in the cabinet, plus a kit in the truck. Plus a small bottle of Peroxide. We have added EMT scissors and a curved tip pair to the kit. Tweezers were added, along with Kling. One later addition has been finger/thumb bandages. Again, get a kit, see what it has and then adapt to your needs, expertise, and destination.

I can't answer that, Jason told me that the service department uses white grease on it. Sometimes it gets a pretty heavy side load, I think it would benefit from something slippery between the two sleeves. There is a lot of chatter about this on RV forums but nobody seems to have discovered a wonder lubricant. Maybe dry is best.... John Davies Spokane WA

That does look a bit different. Will be interested in what you find tomorrow. Good info. Mike

For those that like SUVs, here's my review of the 2018 Navigator L (fancy Expedition MAX): I got fairly good gas mileage, 10-16 MPG depending on conditions. Towing with the Andersen was awesome, without the Andersen it felt more bouncy. Upside: 222" long - 18.5' fit in our garage great. For comparison the F150 (that it is based on) is 232" long (5.5' box) or 244" long (6.5 box super crew). I could press a few buttons, the seats fold automatically, and I can fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood in. Press buttons again and the rear seats fold up and I can take 8 people to town. The Navigator/Expedition are built on the F150 Frame but with independent rear suspension. The navigator adds some electronic damping. Probably the best riding vehicle I have been in. Seats were very comfortable (including a decent massage function that was good at preventing hot spots). Power: Navigator has the 450 HP version of the 3.5 Ecoboost. Power was never a problem. Generally the 27 gallon tank of the L/MAX (shorter version is 23 gallons) gets us to lunch and then our final camp ground. I like turbo engines because they are quieter than a naturally aspirated engine. I flew over passes without fatigue. It also had a 1500lbs payload, which beat the similarly equipped half tons I saw, plus it already came with a cap which would cost about 200lbs of payload there. Where it got scary: in South Dakota we had blizzard conditions with 40 mph quartering head winds. I had the "all season" Kumho tires that it comes stock with (my Blizzaks were on the other side of the South Dakota waiting for mounting for the Rockies and Cascades). The HD trucks were blowing by us, but not sure if that was the "sport all season tires" or the truck. There were also about a half dozen flipped over semis - to give in idea of how extreme conditions were. Basically it was the wrong time to be on the road, so once we found a place to overnight we stopped. Once we got the blizzaks, everything was great. Tech: adaptive cruise was great, heads up display nice to have. 360 camera was "OK", it was hard to really see how close things were. The newer GM cameras blow this out of the water. The blind spot monitor with trailer coverage was nice, it caught at least one person I didn't initially see that was driving in the dark/rain with no headlights on🤪. The pro-trailer assist was pretty garbage, it would lose the trailer, so we just used an intercom system between the wife and I and back up the trailer the old fashioned way. Why'd I sell? I had a very rare set of options (tech package, tow package, cargo package, and 8 person seating vs a console or captains chairs). Someone had to have it so they offered more than I bought it for. Other downside: Sticker on mine was something like $93k (I bought used for less). I can get a nicely outfitted HD diesel truck and a Tesla Model 3 for the same price. SUV vs Truck: This was my first SUV as I've had only trucks before. The small size was great in NYC, DC, etc... The downside is that I was much more willing to put stuff in the bed of my truck than my $93k SUV. While I could fit sheetrock, was that what I wanted to put it in? I could have used a utility trailer I guess. I never felt comfortable with propane or gasoline in the back of the SUV (drive with windows down), but throwing a generator and a gas can in the back of the truck is no problem. I Why I didn't get Toyota? The Tundra is an old platform, carries less, burns more gas, and Grade A- as long as you are fine with the price and find one with the tow package. I think the 2021 Suburban with the 3.0 Duramax and air suspension could be a pretty potent tow vehicle when it comes out and will probably eclipse the Navigator until it gets the 2021 F150 refresh parts.

A word of caution about liquid chlorine from the pool stores. It is usually in the 8 to 10% concentration of chlorine. Where as Clorox is actually sodium hypochlorite with a concentration of 6%. So pool chlorine is stronger, but cheaper. Use it with caution. Mossey

I just purchased a 2020 Tundra and will be picking up my new Ollie in late July. (I Hope). I looked at GMC and Ford. I liked the looks of the Dodge but a 2012 Jeep Rubicon that was the most undependable car I have ever bought prevented me from ever looking at another Dodge. A current friend has a new Dodge and the dealer is trying to fix a truck that has already met Lemon Law requirements. What sold be on my Tundra is that I have a 2011 Lexus 570 that has 215K and has been unbelievably trouble free. The engine is shared by the Tundra. It does lack some of the latest bells and whistles that GMC & Ford offer, but the motor just runs and runs. My cars always seem to have over 200K miles on them before I get something new, so I am accustomed to not having all the latest and greatess. Dependability was my most important factor which is why I guess the reason I am buying an Oliver. So here is my Tundra plug! I would have liked to seen what the 2021 Tundra was like but when my F150 with 267K transmission when out and my wife said "why don't you just go buy a new truck"..... you have to strike why the iron is hot.

This last month has been a really long year. Gosh, sometimes I find myself longing for those halcyon days when we just fretted about tire pressures, which vehicle was best for towing and whether propane is safe.

With the Covid 19 suggested travel restrictions keeping me home and properly distanced - I took the time to put Oliver in top shape: 1. Greased all fittings, repacked and replaced (one side) wheel bearings. 2. Verified all chassis fastener torques. includes the Dexter recall. 3. Rotated tires - front to rear, one rear to carried spare, one rear to "extra spare" . The trailer carried spare to front, and second spare to other front. (I purchased a second spare with my Oliver purchase.) So - two new tires to front, fronts now rear, spares are former rears. Basically a 13k rotation. 4. Washed and waxed Ollie. Used the Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax. I actually believe I prefer the regular Meguiar's. 5. Put a threaded "stop" on the powered antenna - it rotated around, a loose fit by design. Now it is secure and locked in place. 6. Pulled AC shroud off. Removed the bird nest detritus , waxed the shroud, replaced. 7. Added new gutters to all windows - the ones mentioned in other forum posts. I used a electric blanket to warm them up sufficiently and cleaned the surface with 3m cleaner. They are very secure - to my delight. 8. Enlarged the drain holes on the three side windows. (Just the ones on the "slide" glass) . Same rectangular look, just about 75% larger. 9. Added a bolt "stop" to the battery tray. Keeps the tray locked in place should the latch fail. I have seen one fail first hand in a friends Ollie. 10. Replaced batteries in all the remote Temp sensors. 11. Tested all the systems - except AC. Readied all systems for "GO". Sanitized the water system. 12. Thoroughly cleaned the interior, removed the excess floor glue that bugged me since purchase. 13. Bleach cleaned the window outside inserts, to almost new white condition - my new black ones are on back order...... Found my tire covers......... What did I miss? Other than a few "upgrades" I am contemplating..... RB

I think the number one annoyance with the Oliver (and probably any other trailer that uses the Dometic) is the air conditioner. Yes, it cools the cabin in a jiffy. The noise on the other hand is too much. I would give up cooling power for reduced noise. It’s difficult to sleep with it on. We were at Palo Duro State Park and the temps got to around 105 and we stayed cool with the AC on the low fan setting.... Mike

Were you able to complete all of this maintenance in the shade of the new Ollie shed?😄 Thanks for the list. Mossey

BoB - Assume that you replaced the battery in the smoke alarm? How about a cleaning and dielectric grease in the pigtail and did you check the terminals on the main batteries when you added that bolt stop? Also did you give the door lock, hinges (of all sorts) and any other movable thing a shot of "grease"? and, did you do a check of the caulking - particularly on the roof? Bill

Allstays RV Campgrounds, Ultimate US Public Campground, Allstays RV Dump, Campendium. There are a bunch of Allstays Apps, depends on how you camp.

I’ve been under my sink to realign the faucet after replacing the cartridge. Use plastic razor blades to remove old caulk from the shelf and vanity. ASI 0240 works real well to remove old caulk. ASI 335 is what I just used to reseal my shower pan. I think you’ll need one of these wrenches to keep from having to use a pair of Channellock plies which will mar your new faucet Wrench in use What it looks like under there Be sure to “clock” the faucet centerline so that it is perpendicular to the wall otherwise the wand will either hit the wall or swivel out from above the sink and the hot vs. cold adjustment will be awkward.