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And I had forgotten this one - squirrelled away on my puter thingie:

When you change your last name to Oliver?😁

Note: This is NOT factory wiring! The standard battery tray slots may not work if you install non-standard batteries, like my two Battle Born lithium 100 AH ones. Here are the two types of trays for an LE2 - the current version is on the right, it now has two latches since the single one has been known to fracture. This was posted by an Ollie member, I cannot recall his name. I hope he will let me repost it. Note the strap slot locations. Materials needed: Straps and anchors. Once source is Amazon, there are many universal strap kits of variable quality, pick one with stainless steel parts. This would be OK: .... I prefer to use known high quality parts, especially in a case like this with thousands of dollars worth of new batteries at stake. Order these Raingler straps . ... https://raingler.com/products/tie-down-strap-set-of-4. ... which are available in Mil Spec (zero stretch). I bought the 120 inch version and cut them all to fit. Shorter ones might work for you, but allow at least twice the actual length since these double back on themselves. I used three and kept the fourth as a spare. Footman loops (again, very high quality): https://raingler.com/products/footman-mount-set ...I drilled out the holes and used 1/4"x20x 3/4" stainless screws and self locking nuts. ... Stainless Philips Truss Head Screws ... These screw heads will clear the tracks if you locate and drill the holes high enough! Nuts will not clear them. Tray spacers, inexpensive, easy to cut with a power saw, flame retardant: How to drill large air vent holes in the SIDE of a PVC board - attach a scrap: For my setup, I made a 1/4" spacer strip for the inside, and a 1/2" spacer strip for between the batteries. This leaves enough room for a third battery, and I preinstalled the footman loops for that one to make its installation easy. The front and back spacers were cut to fit, to make a snug fit. Footman loop location: depends entirely on the battery type. Make sure all straps clear any cavities or openings. I chose to install one strap per battery, and also one "fail safe" strap across all of them (side to side). This way if any one strap loosens, the battery will remain secure. FYI, my new wiring design allows the batteries to be easily removed and it also eliminates the extra length of heavy cables that can cause problems. John Davies Spokane WA

I mounted a Victron MPPT controller under the street side bed, so I had a really big hole to fill where the Zamp one used to be: Super heavy duty vecro ... Velcro Professional Heavy Grade white A 2.1 amp dual USB charger mounted inside, spliced into the stereo power wire with an inline fuse: My old iPad Mini 2 will support a Split Screen (but only a Mini 4 or later will support Dual Screen, where both windows are active). My main purpose was to have an easy to view head height display for my VictronConnect App, which shows both the battery and the solar status. I can also send or receive text messages from my Garmin inReach, view map apps, or just about anything else. This unit has a cellular chip, so the gps works, but it does not have an active cellular account, so I need to be near wifi to get new new data. OTH I can download lots of maps for offline use for my Pocket Earth Pro and GAIA Pro nav apps. Even dimmed it would be way too bright at night, so it will get put to sleep. John Davies Spokane WA

Just for fun you can look at the Oliver Outfitters List on Amazon for all kinds of electrical adapters, testers, hoses, filters etc. For most items there are comments above and to the right of each item that are specific to Oliver use cases. See it here: https://amzn.to/2mAAgPO Check out reviews of campgrounds we've had our Ollie here: https://4-ever-hitched.com/around-the-northwest Craig Short Hull 505 - Galway Girl

Look for WD 40 - Specialist Dry Lub with PTFE (which is teflon). That works great and is available at most parts stores, amazon etc. This also can work on the legs of the Electric Jacks without attracting dirt etc. It sprays on a bit like any other wd40 but drys to slick teflon clear finish.

I carry a 50amp to 30amp adapter. Here’s a link to the one I purchased from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXP2R4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_9JHD89SBCVWMA30W4QEH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And I also carry a 15 amp to 30amp adapter for plugging into a standard household power outlet for those occasional Harvest Host stops that have an outlet available. Can’t run the air conditioner or microwave (don’t want to pop a breaker in the Host’s house) but it’s good for running all the DC powered accessories and charging up the battery. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QY57SNH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_AYP7J647VPGQDDPW3XM0

You don't need a surge protector, since one is built in. Oliver also supplies the 30 amp cable. I believe that they used to also provide a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter, but if they don't then that's a cheap accessory that can be useful at times. Some owners who camp in the summertime have found that the 30 amp service in some campsites can be overwhelmed by the number of campers running their AC, and as a result the voltage will drop and trip the surge protector. So they've had better luck using a 30 to 50 amp adapter and plugging into the 50 amp service. If you don't plan to camp in July heat, then I wouldn't bother. Some also carry a 30 amp extension cord. I think that's a bit bulky for something that's rarely used, and instead carry a 20 amp extension cord and use it with an adapter. You won't be able to run your AC like that, but it will power everything else and charge your batteries.

And now for something completely different... The song is The Dance by Robert Mirabal from the Taos Pueblo (fast forward past the traditional intro of you want). The dancer is Ria Thundercloud from Sandia Pueblo.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both. It would be nice not to have to deal with black water, the composting toilet was not available when our trailer was built. A composting toilet can have its own set of issues. We don’t use any chemicals, a detergent pod and a capful of Calgon water softener. Check out Geo Method, it has worked well for us the past 5 years. I’m a fan of on demand hot water. That’s all we had when we lived in Europe for 12 years. They are more complicated and can be more expensive to repair. Our 6 gallon hot water heater has performed flawlessly. I’ve replaced the anode once and the on/off switch once. We’ve never run out of hot water. If I was mainly a boondocker I would have a composting toilet installed. Our limiting factor for camping with no hook ups is the capacity of the black tank. We frequently camp in W/E only campgrounds and have to take a couple of hours after 5 days or so to go dump and then return. It can be a pain in the... black tank. Mike

Here is the set up I use instead of the propane quick connect. Simple easy to install . With a 20ft hose reaches just about anywhere. Works with all appliances and only cost about $35.00 minus the hose.

I’ve noticed something about my steps that I meant to work on but forgot about as we used our Oliver more. Use your finger to feel the top and bottom sides of the angled slot cut in the aluminum side plates. I found that one side of the slot was smooth and the other was rough. I think this was caused by the end mill making a “climb cut” on one side and a “conventional cut” on the other side of the slot. I intended to use a file and maybe emery cloth to smooth the rough side, then use a dry type lubricant on both sides of the slot. You might try this sometime to see if it helps. I also found that using both hands makes raising and lowering the steps easier.

This is true, about the electric/water connections. We have found some that are situated so it is difficult to connect to both power and water; usually it's the water bib.

Very great job again! I'll look for the main post for the project when it arrives. I'm starting my designs for a Lithium Upgrade so I'm drafting behind you. Loved that you used what I assume are MBRF fuses on each lug. Great space saving safety feature. I can wait for the main posting but I'm curious, how did you mount those red and black through terminal studs? Is there room on the backside of the battery enclosure to reach up and put on backing plates for the hole down bolts etc? When I looked under the seat of the dinette (red stud side) inside it looks like you would need to reach a hand up inside quite a ways to be where your through studs are mounted. Haven't looked under the bed side yet. CS

There are problems with microwave dish/satellite systems, such as physical interference from trees or even snow, and sometimes a heavy rain. But it is better than nothing, usually. Satellite use will be common in a few years, almost doing away with cable and fiber, or land based microwave communications. When Dish first came out, they did not allow mobile use. You had to have a landline phone connection. Well, that changed as people did away with their landline phones, and now dish and other satellite television systems are relatively easy to use and are definitely mobile. As technology changes, internet, and however we access it in a few years, or what the internet becomes, will soon have internet available anywhere in the world in a few years, probably from satellites. Cell/mobile phones use satellites. Television uses satellites, including wired systems.

I, personally, dislike silicon . But, that's a personal thing. Any decent bathroom sealant will give you a decent seal for the vanity. I personally prefer polyurethane, interior . No reason to go with uv 4000 in the bath. Imo. John's suggestion on the plastic blade is a good one.

If you use a steel blade it can damage the gelcoat, this works well and will be gentle on the finish. It is useful,for removing stickers and all sorts of other tasks. Plastic scraper Any decent white silicone sealer will be fine, you do not need to use a super duper type like on the roof. I have been using the JB Weld stuff in various colors and it works fine. Or just pick up something locally. JB Weld Silicone Sealant Tape the perimeter of the area carefully, apply the sealer, wipe smooth with a finger, then immediately remove the tape. Pretty! John Davies Spokane WA

Yeah, hose extensions for water and sewer hose are also a good idea, as Mattnan mentioned. I had a similar experience where the water connection was at the extreme opposite end of the site from the electric and sewer. I appreciate the fact that they keep the fresh water far away from the sewer connection but it did require a long water hose.

240 more satellites this month. I've read that an app is in the works to move your service address. Baby steps towards mobile service? https://www.cnet.com/google-amp/news/spacex-completes-four-starlink-launches-in-a-single-month/

We have the adapters FrankC described. We also carry a 30 amp extension cord and an extension for our waste tank hose. These are packed away in the bed of our truck. We didn't start out with these extensions but after having a spot in the FL Keys where we had to position our Ollie perfectly to have both reach we thought it would be a good idea just in case. The site in Florida had the electric at the back of the site and sewer way at the front of a pull through site that would accommodate a class A or very large trailer. We did end up needing the sewer hose at a different site. Good luck.

I thought I read Oliver was aiming for 15 - 20 a month. Which given their process - seems doable. For comparison - Once upon a time I was responsible for ensuring 50+ Saturn's headed to the customer each hour - seconds were important in those days. RB

Clumsy ? Let me explain a different way....... My old suitcase Coleman stoves are white gas only. To convert them to propane the Stansport propane converter is required. Once converted, the high pressure hose runs from the stove to the propane tank. The connection to the tank is to the "Y" connector....similar to what I see in Landrover's pic. One three point connector and one hose to the stove or any other appliance that has it's own regulator.

I did end up using the 1"x1" steel since it's galvanized, I plan on towing in winter / salt, and needed to find something useful for it. I "galvanized" it again after cutting and drilling. I'm going to keep a close eye on it and if it starts to rust, I'll take it off and replace it with aluminum. I used M5-0.8 Socket Head Cap Screws for everything. I did not use washers on the 2 bolts / screws that attach the bar to the frame. The screw / bolt head diameters are not much larger than the threaded portion of the bolt so l "hope" that's my "fuse" to protect the frame if there's a solid strike on the bar. I sure wish OTT had mud flaps standard or as an option. I already had a few "dings" in the gelcoat from driving it home after delivery that could/would have been prevented with flaps. 😞 Numerous owners have done this mod, so I'm not adding anything innovative or new here, but I know pictures are worth thousands of words and maybe will help someone thinking of doing this mod, so here they are:

I pick up my LE2 in May. I decided against the propane quick disconnects because all of my 20 year old stoves, cookers, fryers, etc have their own pressure regulators. My understanding is that they will not work unless connected to a high pressure source (can't have two regulators in series...it will lower the pressure too much). The LE2 has a regulator at the tanks so all the propane lines into/underneath are low pressure. So, what I have planned is to install a propane "Y" connector coming off one of the 30 lb tanks. One of the y connectors will go to the LE2 regulator to fuel the LE2 as normal. The other Y connector will connect to a detachable high pressure propane hose that will run to my stoves/etc. When disconnecting, I will need to turn off the tank and burn the hose length of propane....other wise the propane will escape into the air. Below is my preliminary list of components needed to convert a coleman stove with the high pressure source. No special tools needed. Priority Item Cost $$$ Desc 2 CAM59893 44 Camco Propane "Y" Adapter w/ Handwheel - Male P.O.L. x (2) 1"-20 Male 2 Gaspro conversion hose 52 GASPRO 18 Feet Propane Adapter Hose 1 lb to 20 lb Converter for 1 LB Portable Appliance to 5-40 lb Propane Tank 2 Coleman stove gas to propane converter 20 Stansport Propane Converter Option Dozyant conversion hose 40 DOZYANT 18 Feet Propane Adapter Hose 1 lb to 20 lb Converter Replacement for QCC1 / Type1 Tank Connects 1 LB Bulk Portable Appliance to 20 lb Propane Tank

One of my favorite albums...

In reverse order - I'm not too surprised with your adjustments on your brake controller. Now that things in this regard have "settled down" it is likely that little (if any) further adjustment will be necessary. I'd still keep a strong eye on that Andersen. I've never experienced ANY "settling in" of the bushings (the red things) and really don't see how these would ever "settle in". The only times when I've experienced one chain being slack is when the TV and the Ollie are not in a straight line. However, even a slight deviation from straight can produce a difference in the tension. When you have the Oliver disconnected, can you move the Andersen hitch ball manually? You can usually test this by either reconnecting the whale tail without the chains or by taking the lug wrench that Oliver provided and placing the end of it into the "pin hole" at the bottom of the hitch ball and rotate the hitch ball from side to side - it should be reasonably smooth during this movement. For what its worth - my procedure with my Andersen is exactly as Mike described above. The only times I mess with the large screws under the trailer is when I'm in a situation where I simply can not back the tow vehicle anywhere near the same angle as it was when I unhitched. Even then, I normally will use the lug wrench to manually adjust the whale tail to the proper alignment versus messing with the chain adjustments. Bill

We got a couple Front Runner Expander chairs. They seem comfortable, rugged and fold down to a very compact size (17"x17"X2.5"). They are a tad heavy at 9# each.

I see this inflatable sectional sofa in Russell's future campsite. https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/279E254D-62FE-4C83-B7E4-3222A2D4B885?ingress=2&visitId=a5ce6820-d6c0-4015-8626-d64adc2b146b&ref_=ast_bln

One of my favorite Dylan tunes and lastly, time for some Steve Earl,

As much as I always enjoy and I appreciate JD's comments - on a wide range of topic's, I must demure here - somewhat. His comments are spot on in relation to people being human and - despite best intentions, given solid training, proven processes, and perfect parts - people are at best 80% reliable. As to robotic assembly - sure - in todays assembly plants - automation is much more a part of the build - but mainly in heavy process driven areas such as the stamping, body fab and finish - in the assembly areas - robotic assembly is much harder to deploy - for many reasons. Automation is not an Oliver strongpoint. and it is expensive - for small quantities.... . People remain at the core of the process. However, my point - Quality - or more to the point - build to design intent - is a culmination of all the inputs - human and "robotic" which can be measured, controlled, and continually improved - beyond "Lexus" standards. Where Oliver has done a decent (excellent?) job - in an industry rife with shoddy manufacturing quality- they have plenty of room for improvement. Customers deserve the quality level they expect - from a premium Company - charging a premium price. It is not unreasonable for an Oliver RV to meet or exceed design intent -and the expectations of the customer. Inspection processes, (the Oliver system) while valuable, are not the panacea to a quality product. From my on site observations - for Oliver to achieve world class quality results - they must move towards a total system approach - one that was once referred to as TPS - (Toyota Production System) to which every manufacturer of note, has adopted in various measures and given their own moniker. GM, Ford, Nissan, VW, Tesla, etc. - - All have their own - you can graph - over time -industry quality improvements with the adoption of these type systems. Sure - AI, computer simulation - and the electronification of the vehicle are also huge factors in the total. (And many build 50+ per hour at a high FTQ) As Oliver has relied on their service departments to correct issues and keep customers singing their praise - the real money is in getting it right the first time. As production schedules push the process - Oliver will be forced to move in that direction - or expect the eventual decline in overall product satisfaction. At times - Oliver customers experience issues - that simply should not have made it to the customer. It happens. non the less - Oliver remains a top quality RV product. To quote Lee Iacocca - If you can find a better car (RV) , buy it," As someone on the forum has previously commented - were they younger - there is a great opportunity to supply the RV industry with quality and reliable appliances and products. As Thor and Dometic continue to buy up all the independent's - the bane of the reputable RV builders will continue to be with the "parts" they have to build with. I apologize for the length and off topic drivel - this post droned on and on. Moderator - please remove if I'm to far out there. RB

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01INZ7RY0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Mike