Leaderboard

This is the best forum that I have ever the pleasure of being a member of! Great people, excellent advice!!!

It would depend on what you're looking for, i.e. dispersed, hookups, private, etc. I lean towards no hook ups. Also, the timing of your trip. Many USFS campsites, my favorites, close for the season that time of year, so do your homework. One of my "easy favorites" is Cochiti Lake Campground run by the Corp of Engineers about an hour north of Albuquerque. Used to be open year 'round with some hookups; great showers! Quiet, easy, scenic. But, recent restrictions have made it a bit unpredictable; investigate. Loma Linda Campground, just south of Jemez Springs, NM, an hour north of ABQ, I believe is open year around. Hot springs close. First Come First Served. Joe Skeen CG west of ABQ, at the south end of El Malpias Lava Flow is open year 'round. That's about an hour west below Grants, NM. Very cool scenery. There are KOA's, Casino Campgrounds i.e Isleta, Sandia, Rt. 66, Santa Anna, if you prefer that form of camping/parking. I have never stayed at any of those, but they are close. One surprising unit is Coranado State Park in the town of Bernalillo, NM nothing fancy, but they do have hookups, State Park, relatively quiet, and only 15 mins. north of ABQ. usually packed for Balloon Fiesta. Open year 'round and conveninet. Lot to see in NM. All the best, E

The original suspensions on the 2016's is good for 12 to 15 thousand miles. At that point, the "plastic" bushings are shot and there was no way to get any meaningful lubrication into these areas. If you do not tow much this is not the end of the world as we know it (i.e. the suspension will not simply fall apart). However, all of the parts down there will continue to wear (at an accelerated rate) until a bolt or shackle or spring breaks. And, with the suspension getting "sloppier" by the mile, the ride of anything above it will become not so good. This is the same basic suspension on many other RV 's(with the notable exception of Olivers do have shocks on all four corners) but Oliver upgraded in 2017 to a suspension that could be lubricated. Many of us upgraded our older Olivers when these plastic things wore out. Using the "search function" here on the Forum you should be able to find a number of posts on this subject and on how to do the upgrade. Bill

I think there has been some question about their capacity rating, so some have upgraded to greater capacity with either larger cables or chains. Each safety cable or chain should be of greater capacity than the weight of the trailer being towed and not the combined total capacity of both cables or chains. I don’t believe Oliver would provide safety cables that were not rated for at least 7000 lbs, but I believe the Texas motto is "bigger is better" or maybe it’s "everything is bigger in Texas", so I do think it a worthwhile upgrade. And I am from Florida, so what do I know. Mossey

The auto function fridges in the newer trailers operate differently from our older Dometic units. They will select from all three available power sources, be careful it at it doesn’t select DC. Ninety per cent of all RVers run their fridges on propane while traveling. We driven >150K miles like this and I don’t ever recall a situation where we were required to turn it off.

I can't believe that right after I read your post, the next day I get a call from the manager of the place where I store my Oliver 2018 Elite II that there is some kind of alarm going off in my trailer. When I went by to take a look, sure enough it was the propane/carbon monoxide sensor. The date on the back of the sensor was January 25, 2015. This post probably saved me a bunch of time. I just took the old one out and ordered a new one. Thanks!

Like Bill, I upgraded my trailer to the Dexter after about 18 months. The old bushings were totally worn out. It’s something to check if you are buying an older used trailer. The Dexter is easy to spot. Mike

A quick call to Oliver Service will get you that battery strap. Bill

Scubarx brought up an important point on the Norcold. I, too, advise owners to manually select the power source each time. The older dometics didn't ever default to dc. The norcold will, if left in auto, and can leave some with depleted batteries unknowingly. There are a few areas where you must turn off propane tanks, not just the fridge. Many ferries require it, and some check and tag the bottle at boarding. Some tunnels, either because they're heavily trafficked, or don't have the typical little rise in the center. They're usually clearly marked, and have an alternative route, or have a pullout area to turn off tanks. Most can be avoided with planning, and if not, it's just a minor inconvenience.

The smart part of "Smart Shunt” is Bluetooth. All Victron Smart Shunt's come with Bluetooth capabilities. It’s the Victron BMV's that may or may not support Bluetooth. Mossey

Search the forum for Cradlepoint and research it in other places online for information about them. I believe Overland mentioned that there is a subscription fee as well. Also take a look at YouTube for "Mobile Internet Resource Center". They are former Oliver owners who live mobile year round and know all about mobile connectivity. Good luck, Mossey

That is great customer service, and a little unexpected IMHO; take him a some doughnuts the next time you go there. A positive review on Yelp would also be appreciated, I am sure…. John Davies Spokane WA

Here's a paragraph from Got Earplugs by katanapilot from My version of the Houghton AC install posted May 27. As a sidenote halfway through the install I thought of a different way of doing the wiring for the thermostat. If a person replaced the LCD thermostat with a older manual style you could do away with the LCD relay board. If you look at the first picture that shows a group of wires that are in a black sheath, these are the control side of the wiring for the AC. In that group of wires there are two blue wires one with a white stripe. The one with the white stripe is hot 12 volts DC and the solid blue is the wire that goes to the furnace relay board. So re-allocate the existing thermostat wires by doubling them up ,two of them hooked to the solid blue and the other two hook to the blue with the white stripe. Then at the wall hook the two thermostat wires that are hooked to blue with white stripe to the power in on the new manual thermostat and the other two to the power out. The reason I would double them up is because of they're small gauge. This would do away with having to pull wires and using the LCD relay board. Also save you having to toggle through the unusable modes (heat strip, cool) on the LCD thermostat to get to the furnace mode. By re-allocate the existing thermostat wires and doubling them up ,two of them hooked to the solid blue and the other two hook to the blue with the white stripe. Now you are able to utilize wires that are already there saving you having to run new ones. Simply switch out the thermostat with one that does not need a control board. Paul

Hey Mossey, Yup, I felt around everywhere. Looks like a simple suspension system. Drat. I can take some pics if needed. Or, maybe I should start a new thread. For the poor folk with low-end suspensions. LOL

Whichever Victron battery monitor you choose will be fine, but I think you would be the first Oliver owner to install a 1000 Amp shunt if you buy the one in your provided link. I believe most people here have used the 500 Amp shunts which run about $130. Based on my experience with Victron devices equipped with Bluetooth radios, the connectivity depends on where you place it. The Bluetooth radio with the BMV-712 is in the display, so your install with the display in the upper cabinet area has much better connectivity than mine which is in the lower hull. I doubt your charge control Bluetooth coverage is as robust as your 712. I experimented with my 712 before placing it in the lower hull and quickly realized I would be giving up at least 50% of the Bluetooth coverage if I placed below decks, but I planned on using the app and not the display from the start. I don’t think a Smart Shunt installation is viable any place but the lower hull. And the Bluetooth radio for the Smart Shunt is mounted to the shunt itself, so it’s inevitable the coverage is going to have a smaller footprint than a 712 installation with the display mounted high in the Oliver. Mossey

Sorry I did not close this thread out. I finally added the Andersen to the trailer. The RAM 1500 did have a liability statement in the manual for 5,000 lbs or more. It also took care of the porpoising that was occurring on rougher back roads and bridges. Well, not really bad bridges, but it's better. It was very easy to install. I did get the suggested chain extensions. I used 24 links, not 23 (just in case I needed it). Must have a good torque wrench and some muscles, and/or a friend. Thanks all.

Well, I found the source of of the water pump noise. I think it's this part: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-94-800-02-Water-Drive-Assembly/dp/B00UYWVB0C/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=shurflo+4008+parts&qid=1632405066&sr=8-18

I have just noticed some suspension creaking noise. My last suspension was at Oliver last September and have certainly traveled over 3000 miles since then so it is time to buy a grease gun and figure out what to do. You Tube to the rescue.

Here is a draft delivery checklist prompted, in part, by comments regarding a recent inverter-mount failure (see below). This delivery inspection checklist began with one used by NCeagle for his delivery, to which I've added items. The list is almost certainly incomplete -- what other items would you suggest to help new buyers? Thanks to Oliver for providing this educational ad-free forum, and to all of you for your forum posts that have contributed to this list. This open-dialogue forum is IMHO a huge asset to the OliverOllie Inspection Checklist (draft 4-9-2021).pdf travel trailer brand. I divided the list into two parts: (1) the actual delivery day inspection and (2) items for further inspection at DCSP. I plan on testing the list in 3 weeks when we pick up Hull 792, and will refine the list based on this experience (and with your additions, suggestions, comments, etc). The list is in pdf form. Once updated, I'd be happy to send out (or post) an xlsx version.

While I've spent lots of time in NM I am not familiar with any of the CG's mentioned above other than the state park in Bernalillo. As stated its small, quiet and a bit tight but the worst part is getting in and out of the damn thing. Access is on a very busy highway often with some construction going on. More trouble than its worth unless its for just a night or two. Sounds like you need a full hook up site closer into ABQ. Best of luck.

At the end of the season, I'll use a "Clay bar" with a lubricant (Maguires makes a great kit), then wax with "Rejex". The "clay bar" will remove a lot of grime you don't notice, but you feel; slide your fingers over the fiberglass. Using the "clay bar" produces a smooth surface to be waxed over. I highly recommend this procedure for the roof section. The roof takes the biggest beating and accumulates the most road/camping dirt. At least up there you're working horizontally. Take your time, it doesn't take that long. When you're finished you really get that "warm fuzzy feeling" knowing you're done! Sure makes a significant difference with the gelcoat over time. Try the "clay bar". It truly does not take that much extra effort and produces a superior surface to cover with wax. Best, E

Yeah, unfortunately, I think Lewis County has been one of the worst epicenters in TN. I hope Oliver has been a leader in trying to get that turned around.

Cochiti is a kind of co-op deal between the COE and the Cochiti Pueblo, and I understand it can be a contentious relationship at times. They enjoy the benefits of having the lake and the small neighboring community there, but the dam and lake itself has been an environmental pita. Anyways, the area is under Pueblo control when it comes to COVID, and they've all been pretty strict about it as have the other Pueblos. I think even Chaco as been closed due to access.

Yep, gonna have to order a bottle of that. I like living dangerously.

John, I've got a National Luna in my truck, too, and power it with a small AGM battery, which is charged from the truck while driving and also pair of solar panels attached to a rack. With that setup, I've never depleted the battery while traveling. I used a Victron Cyrix smart relay to prevent the fridge from draining the starter battery, and just allow the truck's electronics to act as the regulator for charging the house battery. And I've got a Victron BMV to monitor everything via bluetooth. It's been a good setup and made the fridge something we don't really think about. I've got a DC fridge in the trailer, but now that I've had experience with the NL in the truck, I'd keep the absorption fridge if doing it again. It's just a big drain on the trailer batteries that I wouldn't have to worry about. Propane for us seems to last forever.

There are other no option Oliver trailers out there. The base model is hardly "base" compared to most. A base model is really, really nice, imo. My experience has been, the more people who ask, the more likely something is to change, eventually. But, it can take time. Especially in these days of fragile supply chains, and covid. Considering all the new trucks sitting on lots without chips, and all the sob brand rv dealers sitting without or with limited inventory to sell, I think Oliver has done a remarkable job, keeping up, personally. It will get better. I'm sure of that.

Our son and daughter-in-law just installed Starlink at home where they don't have cell reception. She works a lot from home, and they were relying on Hughes Net, which was unbearably slow. They say Starlink is 500% faster. We are going to hold out for our Rural Electric Coop fiber, but it might be a few years before we are connected. As for mobil data, we still rely on cellular for connectivity on the road. Most always we have service around towns and plan our needs accordingly. Sometimes it's a pain, but that's life!

Our previous RVs have had Dometic absorption fridges which defaulted to LP when set to "Auto". The Norcold default is 12v; we always choose the power mode and never set to Auto. In our experience, the Norcold fridge does a much better job of cooling than the Dometic in our Leisure Travel Van. However, the Norcold lacks one feature the Dometic had - it had an audible alarm if the burner failed to light, after a certain number of attempts or the door was left open. The only indication you get of no LP supply, when in LP mode, is an error code on the display. I wish it had an audible alarm. What we do is set an alarm for the remote temp sensors we use in the fridge, to let us know if the temp gets above 40 degrees in the fridge and 25 degrees in the freezer.

We’ve stayed at Cochiti Lake COE, too. We tried to go back a year or two ago but it was closed due to the NM COVID shutdown. It looks like it is open now. Nice campground. We’ve stayed at Kirtland AFB too, but you have to be military or retired. Mike

I know that due to some health related issues the Service department is currently a bit shorthanded. I'd like to think that this is the reason that they have declined your request. I doubt that within the next two weeks things will change very much. If you can wait, I'd suggest dropping Jason Essary an email ( jessary@olivertraveltrailers.com ) and mention that you'd like them to do this install for you. Include what you have said above! Good luck. Bill

Congrates on taking that first step in really joining the "family". These absorption fridges are most efficient when using propane. Running them on electricity (12 volt or 110 volt) requires the heating of an element (kind of like a space heater) and that takes a fair amount of a limited resource when on 12 volt. Assuming that it is not too hot out and you are not driving too far then it just might be simple to turn off your fridge during those circumstances. I've only done that a couple of times though. The problem is - you risk spoiling food and you have to remember to turn that puppy back on. Yes, with the larger battery capacity of the lithium it is possible that you might have enough power to not be concerned. But, you will still need to remember (I think) to switch it back to propane. I'm in the camp that simply leaves the fridge on "automatic" all the time (unless as Sherri says it is dangerous or illegal). This way the fridge is always on propane unless I'm plugged into "shore power - 110. One less thing to worry about and/or remember. Bill

I'm sorry to hear that. It would be a perfect opportunity for Oliver to see the differences in the Dometic and the Houghton. I know they haven't installed any other brands since around 2017 or so, but it's not totally surprising, but disappointing.

How long have you used it this way? Any sign of cracks around the corners? 1/4” of aluminum is too thin to support that load for a long period of time. That is one reason Oliver engineers doubled up the thickness (they really do understand aluminum structural properties). 1 Up uses a very cool anti-rattle design but it is meant for steel, and it applies a very heavy point load at just one location.. Have they commented about its suitability for use in a much softer material? As an ex-A&P technician that mod really worries me. I think you risk having the rack and bikes drop down onto the road, or worse yet, come off completely, causing an accident. At the very least you should install a stout cable lock through the bike frames, rack AND around the bumper.I am not trying to sound hysterical, I truly think that is unsafe. John Davies Spokane wA

On all of the RV's I owned prior to getting my Ollie, I had chains. Hopefully I never have to go back to the "chain side". The cables are up and out of the way both while parked (unhitched) and while underway. They are cleaner too. What's not to like? Bill

The greasing discussion pertains to the Dexter E-Z Flex suspension upgrade. Did you look at suspension connections from the inside as well as the outside? Mossey

I know of several owners that have replaced their curly cues with chains. No reason not to. I’ve thought of doing it myself. Mike

The Cradlepoint is a new option so you should ask your salesperson. Mossey

Thanks JD. I found with the rims, plastic scrappers really helped to loosen up the big chunks. A must-have for the tool bag of a fiber glass toy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091TPHSTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's like I'm at dry-dock and I'm prepping for another long voyage, which, I guess is true. Chris

If I keep too many spare parts it could cost me $60K+, for a RAM 2500. I only have a 1500 now and I'm full-timing solo these days, so can't add too much more weight. LOL A spare water pump boondocking seems like a must.

SPRAY NINE is the best cleaner I have found for the streaks. I spray it on and let it set for a few minutes then use a brush with detergent and then power wash just to rinse. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Nine-26832-Degreaser-Disinfectant/dp/B0014COKYU/ref=asc_df_B0014COKYU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309748512677&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8740241489339974550&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001872&hvtargid=pla-570918661581&psc=1

I will wait and see how this completely new Tundra platform performs in its first year before commenting on performance, handling, mpgs, towing. Having owned 3 previous Tundras I will say the reliability of all three trucks I owned was excellent and second to none. Toyota is out front in terms of reliability and dependability at least in my owner experience. Toyota also provided excellent service when any of my previous Tundras needed it. If I were to ever consider another half ton truck, the Tundra would absolutely be given a first look. I have to have reliability, my Tundras have always been very dependable and very reliable for the long haul. Cheers!

Thanks for bringing that up, @bhncb. Since the newer olivers have a thermostat controlling both ac and furnace, that's a consideration. Our older unit had a separate analog control for the furnace, and ac controls were on the inside unit of the ac, so our swap was much simpler. @IL_Travelers, I looked up current pricing at advanced rv. The $2500 is the ac unit, alone, installed, starts at $3143. That's a pretty good chunk of change, when the 13.5 low-profile unit is the same Houghton unit, same 2 year warranty. We (three people, my husband and I, and a younger friend who did the rooftop work) completed our removal and install in under two hours, without the lift and scaffold that a shop would likely have. Last time we had anything done at an rv shop, shop time was roughly $150 an hour. That's awhile ago, so probably more now. If it were me, I'd check with local rv shops to see if someone near you would install a Houghton, and offer a complete quote, including rewiring the existing Dometic thermostat, or replacing it with a simpler model for operating just the furnace. The Houghtons come with their own remote, and I don't think any of their models accommodate a thermostat. Many rv shops do ac installs. You might even find a mobile service that would come to your place. Just a thought, since you have a price difference of over $1600 plus, to work with, plus a trip to Ohio.

@Mcbcan you share why you are dissatisfied with the Tundra electronic brake controller? I have a 2020 and I am very pleased with the brake controller. I am curious to know what issues you may have had with it. There are a number of features on the 2022 model that I would be happy to have, provided they have been vetted and all work well. However, I just can't get past the new body styling. I just don't care for it. I don't like the huge touch screen either. I do appreciate the comfort and safety features of modern trucks, but I often miss the days of old when trucks were just trucks. I wouldn't want to tow with an old truck, but sometimes I really miss my 69 Chevy short-bed. No frills metal dash, spartan gauges, bench seats, oak plank bed, chains on the tailgate... oh, I can almost smell it (sigh).

So, here's an update. Tried the furnace today and realized no air coming from the vent below the sink. A quick investigation found that the duct was not connected to the furnace. The knock-out hole on the rear side of the furnace was knocked out, and that's where the hot air was coming out. No one in the factory connected it. Since I picked it up in mid-July, here are the other problems I've had. No caulking around kitchen sink, allowing water to seep underneath and drip to drawers below. Put duct tape around sink for quick fix. Need to put silicone around it. Screen door misaligned, with big gaps allowing bugs to get in. Jason suggested tweaking it to try to close the gaps. Haven't tried yet. Lettering on light switch panel rubbed off. Mike sent out new panel. Lettering on Dometic stove knobs rubbing off. Waiting for new knobs. Xantrex inverter shutting off and not rebooting due to improper programming from the factory. This resulted in a new Technical Service Bulletin (Aug. 3), and after Jason helped me change the settings, the problem hasn't returned. In another post I shared an article about the horrible (really horrible) quality of SOB RVs and the nightmares those owners are having. In that post I promised not to complain about anything related to my Oliver, and I'm trying. I guess my point here is to remind new buyers to do a super thorough check of the trailer before leaving OTT. I spent two and a half hours at OTT before leaving and thought I did a thorough check but I missed some things. For example I turned on the AC because I wanted to make sure it really could run off the lithium system, but I didn't turn on the furnace. I will say that I'm very happy with the trailer and all the components. The composting toilet is easy peasy. The lithium pro package works great. The Norcold fridge is big and cold. The suspension takes rough roads like a champ. The KTT bed is super comfy. The windows seal tight. Yesterday and today I gave it it's first wash and wax, by hand. What a job. My arms are sore! But, with a little elbow grease I got all the bugs off and with the marine wax got the hull shining.

That is air in the system…. Or a failed impeller. If it doesn’t go away after running water from both faucets, the outside shower and the toilet, you need another pump, or you can rebuild your impeller section. I would replace the entire assembly, then open up the old one, if it is repairable you can fix it and keep it as a spare. This is a typical kit, it costs almost as much as an assembly, The rapid cycling indicates a leak, perhaps from the pump check valve. Perhaps a very small connection leak somewhere under the floor or sink. My pump cycles a fraction of a second about every 15 minutes. I have no accumulator like the later trailers which will help this. You can easily remove the pump and “bench test” it using a bucket of water if you connect extension wires to the power and ground ones. That will tell you immediately if the pump has gone Tango Uniform, or if it is something else. John Davies Spokane WA

I should probably clarify that I wouldn’t recommend towing your Ollie at 90 mph. But I did look down once while not paying attention and saw that number - and then slowed down. My experience though is that the trailer tows very well at any legal speed limit.

John, Have a pin sitting on my desk. It only has one hole for grease for the bronze bushing. During EZ flex kit installation, followed Dexter instructions for direction to point pin's grease hole, but still need to take a little weight off of one of the pins for it to take grease. Looks like a 1/8" hole. https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area/content_media/raw/059-A45-00E-ZFlexInstructionSheet.pdf

You can ask Oliver for their Delivery Checklist that they use to be sure they cover everything with new owners - that may include some smart additions for this list.

I believe Oliver recommends 100 pounds max load on the recommended Lets Go Aero BikeWing 1.25" rack (which you can find that weight online).... if I am interpreting their data right. ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/new-bike-hitch-capacity/ A call to Howenwald would clarify. I personally find the idea of hanging floppy cargo off that very small receiver MORE than a little disconcerting. The back end of your Ollie is a pretty violent location when you hit a big bridge dip at 65 mph. I double strap everything in my rear rack so I don't lose cans and chocks en route. John Davies Spokane WA

Wow! This is fantastic -- so glad to see & read before we have our pick up. I have viewed a couple of videos and gone thru the manual. And, because, I am one of those people who says "and, why didn't you include xyz" [lol] I have to ask if the following could be included at some time ---- measurements of drawer interiors, measurements of overhead storage area, measurements of any storage areas. and measurements of window coverings. This would help new owners plan for needed supplies before delivery day. AND, AND :))) ---- let's get some folks to provide pictures of how they store items, how they have decorated & how they have added window treatments. I betcha there are people who have done some really ingenious things to their trailer that they may like to show others & others would definitely like to see & maybe steal???. :) The Oliver trailer video, shown at the Rally, had a snippet of a window valance. Several of us commented that we would like to see how this was done; specifically how was the curtain rod attached to the trailer side or shade. Regardless of my "ands", I do truly appreciate the time & effort it has taken for you, Matt, & your team to get all this info together & loaded onto the site. I know it ain't easy.