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There have been some posts about leaks. When you consider the number of Olivers out there it’s a minor problem that can be fixed with a little diligence. As has been stated, water leaks in an Oliver are not a major deal in that there is little to no resulting damage. Our Oliver is 6 years old, 80K miles and we’ve never had a leak. At some point I’m sure a leak will appear, but I know it’s an issue that can be dealt with effectively. If you are talking about camping with no hook ups, whether in a National Park campground or out on BLM land somewhere, the Oliver is a great place to be in those situations. I am careful about pulling my trailer where the terrain is rugged, it’s not really a serious off road/rock crawling trailer but does well on most unimproved roads and flat desert. Mike

Dry Camping vs. Boon-docking are maybe two different things....which are you planning? DEFINITION: Boon-docking - No Hookups, no designated campsite, go off road to find a spot in a desert/forest/mountains with some ruts etc to get to the chosen site. The road may be a fire service road that is pretty bumpy, rutted, not maintained. Dry Camping - No Hookups , paved or maintained gravel road getting to and even at the campsite. May or may not have water near by, pit toilets. Site has a designated number or space with markers (rocks/boulders/posts) for where to park the trailer. Maybe a fire pit and table. Considerations: For Boon-docking: In an Oliver Size & Ground Clearance: The Oliver is perfect fit as it's width and length make it very agile even in older small campgrounds. Ground clearance is very good with no plumbing hanging down below the trailer to snag You still need to be careful for rocks and steep slope changes mostly for the back bumper The suspension for the Oliver is pretty good for moderate off road use. *(There are better suspensions on other types of trailers) Water & Sewer: Water tank and Grey Tank are both limited to 30Gal, but has a standard boondocking port to suck in water from a bladder or tank. Black Tank is 18gal which is about 5 days for 2 ppl Option of a Composting Toilet for an Oliver to make off Boon-Docking a much longer experience. Electrical & Solar: With our Dual Lithionics 315 Batteries (630AH Total) and Solar we've gone 8 days without any sun and still had power. New Trailers are shipping with more solar wattage and use new Victron control systems Hope your search is useful and let us know what you decide. Our Blog is here if you are interested in use cases, pictures etc. https://4-ever-hitched.com Craig Short

We "boondock" in our E2. The hitch, ground clearance, tire size and suspension system make our Ollie very maneuverable in the rolling desert hills. Amen. Charlie

What Mike and Carol said! They are easy to tow and maneuver as well as anything else out there and far better than most. We just returned from a 10ish day trip to the Utah deserts with no hookups except one night and could have gone without that but it was there and we paid for it in a state park so why not use it. I agree with others if your'e looking for a hard core overland camper the Ollie is not the best choice but it does well enough on USFS, BLM backcountry roads as long as they are not extremely rocky and rough.

TomW - I would urge you to start reading a bit more. Not only about the Oliver - but - about other campers. Yes, ANY structure that has holes in the roof can develop leaks but with the solid fiberglass construction of the Oliver, the number of holes are generally less, the ability to relatively easily fix those holes is generally much easier and potential of damage beyond the leak itself (i.e. rotted wood, rusted frame and even mold) is virtually non-existent. Olivers have vent holes at the bottom of the camper that allow for air circulation and drainage (in the event of a leak and/or condensation). This combined with the use of materials that are mold and rot resistant further mitigate issues associated with water leaks. As a general statement - once an Oliver is properly sealed (i.e. caulked along with the use of gaskets) and maintained the likelihood of leaks is extremely small. With regards to nimbleness and maneuverability - just compare its size to other campers. Note the Oliver's width. Note comments about the Oliver's stable tracking and look at its aerodynamic shape. Bill

Thank you SeaDawg and TopGun2. You two are why I love owning an Oliver. I will follow your suggestions and report back.

There are simply not all that many ways for the bowl to fill. 1 - pour fluids in from the top 🙄 2 - fluids come up from the bottom 🤢 3 - fresh water fill valve is defective. 4 - foot pedal is either defective or stuck (as SeaDawg suggests). #'s 1 & 2 are not very likely. # 4 is a bit of a problem in that how would one "un-stick" it other than playing around with it (i.e. operate it numerous times and see if that cures the issue). # 3 is the most likely cause- I'd try opening the valve by fully stepping on the pedal a number of times as there just may be a small piece of debris in the line that might clear. Past this its off to YouTube to learn how to replace the valve and possibly the foot pedal which operates it or take the camper in for service. Good luck! Bill

UPDATE: Operator error. Apparently hubby pulled the hose out of the liquid in the bucket while in boondocking mode, with the pump running. This caused vapor lock that could only (and easily) be solved by hooking up city water to the boondocking port. This “flushed” the system and the pump works just fine. We still plan to travel with a spare pump. It’s kind of critical to boondocking for us. Now to find and correct our propane leak…

Our Grandchildren call me Paw-Paw! 👍 I had to work hard "with throttle control" to get that number towing a 4900 pound LE2, my goal was 15MPG towing Ollie with the 2022 Tundra. When we tow on interstates in TN, we get a little better MPG, wonder if it's their pavement composition with less rolling resistance. Shooting for 16MPG when we travel in TN, will see! 🙂

The rear egress window is made by Lippert Components and the seal is a different profile than the Hehr number you ordered. If your original seal looks to be like this picture, it is made by Steele Rubber Products (p/n 70-3825-255 ) and is readily available from a number of internet retailers in a fixed length. Alternatively, you can order it directly from Steele (steelerubber.com), where it is also available by the foot.

Any travel trailer is going to leak at some point, because roof penetrations are unavoidable. The more critical question is: "What will get damaged when a leak occurs?" We have an Elite II on order precisely because we are concerned about water damage inside the trailer. My wife and I were persuaded by the Oliver double-hull design, complete with scupper holes in the bottom hull to allow any water that gets between the two hulls to drain out. We also like that there is little wood inside the trailer (just the galley cabinet) to be water damaged. We considered an Airstream, but were not interested in the plywood subfloors still used on many models, along with the much more extensive use of wood inside the trailer. Like all trailers, Airstreams have roof penetrations for AC, fan, vents, etc., so leaks will eventually develop. Once wood products behind walls get wet, they will develop mold and rot. Google "replacing an Airstream subfloor" to find out how many Airstream owners have gotten to deal with mold and rot in their subfloors. No thanks. Check out forums for other travel trailers, and you will find hundreds of horror stories about water damage resulting in rot and mold in the mass-produced "stick and staple" trailers. You will also learn that post-sale customer service from those companies falls far below the high standard set by Oliver's outstanding Customer Service Department. The results of our research persuaded us that if potential water damage, including avoidance of mold and rot, is a top priority the Oliver is an excellent choice.

That accident is terrible, I cannot image going through this. So glad you, your wife and cat are o.k. I am just throwing this out there, so don't you all attack me. I have looked at these pictures for a couple days, and something just keeps bugging me. I keep going back to the man in that truck and looking at his head cocked to the side and looks tilted back slightly that just looks odd to me. And is his left arm draped over the steering wheel or holding the steering wheel? I showed these pictures to my husband, and I said why is his head cocked to the side like that and look at his left arm on the wheel. And he immediately said, look at the cell phone. What cell phone? If you look under his chin, you see the sliver of black that looks like the top of a cell phone. I said that may explain why it has been bothering me about why his head is cocked that way. Does anyone else see to top of a black cell phone (look right under his chin)? Is holding that cell phone up with his right arm, across his chest, to read it? His head cocked at that angle to read a text, and head slightly back like you would do to focus his eyes on what he is reading? Did he have his cell phone in his right hand, held up, against his left arm that is on the steering wheel? Is it possible for the police or Insurance company to get cell tower records that would have a record of cell phone activity in that exact location, at that exact time of the accident? I know they can track pings if they have a cell phone number. But not sure if they can do this without a cell number to track. If so, there is your guy. Or if by chance he is caught, check his cell phone records putting him at the place of the accident. Hope you recover quickly.

We also carry a spare water pump. We had ours quit once while we were on the road and couldn’t get any water flow. As it turned out, we had some rough roads and the two wires that connect to the bottom of the pump came lose. Once I figured out how and where to reconnect them all was fine. It happened a couple of years later and I got a good crimp on the connectors so now they stay. We realized a spare pump was a small price to pay for a critical trailer component! Mike

So I got a reply from Anderson this morning, very fast reply and they said that my replacement was in shipping to be shipped. Very fast service for a warranty replacement. I did send them the pics and receipt for my original purchase which you have to include on your warranty replacement request, which I did. It looks like I have to pay the $13.75 shipping charges, but they haven't ask for it yet, but I'm sure they will, that's the way things work these days. Pics of broken leveler. trainman

You call THAT driving ?😆 Just kidding! Its nice to see that there really isn't much difference between these 3.5 liter turbo 1/2 tons. Bill

Oliver is upping their game as far as off grid / boondocking ability are concerned. Mostly due to improvements in solar / battery / components etc. I think they can nibble around the edges of the overland market. Not the hard core expedition guys... who will go the 4x4 van, Earthroamer, jeep with rooftop tents, and the like. But the folks who want to get out into BLM land away from the crowded campgrounds. And still have the creature comforts that the Oliver brings to the table. Serious off grid / road capability puts you into a whole new category of vehicle, with a whole new price tag. Any choice you make will involve compromise as to capability, components and price. Do your research. Read and consider everything. I think you'll find yourself coming back to Oliver.

Now, isn't that just crazy in what's supposed to be an overlanding trailer? And they're definitely $$$$.

TomW - a personal tour, or better yet, a factory tour, will show you how fine these Ollies are. Water leaks happen, but on a scale of 1-10 they are a 2 at most. More a minor annoyance, to be fixed when you get back home, rather than a “OMG a leak, the walls are going to rot, we have to stop this right now!” Which is a 10, and very common to 99% of the other trailers in the market. Even the glass egg trailers like Casita have major worries, because they use SO much wood for the interior. Do read other brand forums for a true perspective !!! There are so few truly big problems with our trailers that we have to talk about the little stuff to stay busy…. Do keep in mind that most appliances in all trailers will not be remotely up to the standard you expect from your home units. Which is a shame, but to be expected for their cost, and the fact that the whole trailer gets rattled and shaken over tens of thousands of miles. Your home furnace could not withstand that. BTW there are a few Ollies with way more than 100,000 towing miles. Stick and staple trailers fall apart long before that. Often on the first trip. Google this term: “travel trailer broken frame tongue” or “Airstream popped rivets” or “Airstream hail damage” and weep. John Davies Spokane WA

I found my receipt for the Anderson Levelers, got online with Anderson and sent them the pics of the receipt and the broken leveler. I purchased the levelers from Walmart online and they were shipped to me direct from Anderson, I have the shipping box they came in and the shipping label tells the story. Now I'm waiting to hear from them. trainman

We probably live in the edge, but we don't carry a spare pump, even though we replaced ours once on 14 years. Maybe I should, as we're approaching that 8 year replacement mark... something to think about.

Checked MPG with onboard computer on a trip home from camping in the NC foothills today, about 70 miles towing Ollie. Speed limits ranged from 45MPH to 65MPH. I intentionally take off easy from stops and don't use cruise control while towing. Very easy on the throttle getting 15MPG today with the 2022 Tundra towing Ollie, about 2700 miles on the Tundra, so far. The on board computer has been close to MPG comparing fuel used to miles driven. It would be very easy to get less MPG if I accelerated harder from stops and was not easy overall on the throttle. Some folks on the Tundra forum with their 2022 Tundra get 15 to 16MPG not towing. I get 19MPG around town and 22MPG highway not towing, but I drive differently than some folks.

I did submit my claim after closing hours last night, so I will see it they respond by Monday, if not, I will give them a call. trainman

Many of us just call boondocking "camping". We've rarely had hookups in 14 seasons. The Olivers are great off grid trailers, properly equipped and maintained. As you can guess, we're very happy with ours. However, if you're thinking about rock crawling, or extremely rough overlanding, you may want to look elsewhere. A couple folks on here moved on from Ollies to more expensive Aussie built Overland trailers. (Actually, they're each on the second Aussie trailer, so you'd definitely get some brand comparisons. ) You could look at posts from Raspy and DonThompson to see their reasons, and if they line up with yours. However, both are still members here, and I suspect would tell you what they loved about their Olivers, if you reached out to them. As far as leaks, pretty much every camper of every brand will leak, someday, somewhere. The difference is in the resulting damage Good luck with your decision.

I hope it works out for you @Trainman. Warranty issues, these days, take a ton of patience, imo. Mist companies are suffering from reduced staff.. Best of luck!

My guess, fill is leaking. Our foot pedal sometimes sticks. My guess, yours is too, but just slightly.

We did a live aboard dive trip in 2010 on the Great Barrier Reef. One of the requirements was that every diver have a "safety sausage". An inflatable tube about 8 feet long by 6" in diameter. Easy to blow up and hold vertically above the water. One pair of divers came up a long way from the boat (after I was aboard) and inflated it and it was so easy to see. Without it.. not so much. The zodiac picked them up. I never... never.. go diving without one now. Safety equipment is a must. This is a sad story and I will admit that after the first reports of them being found I was sure it was foul play. I hope others will learn from their mistake.

Congratulations and happy travels. We were there for pickup a few days before you. Glad you survived the first night under the very intense glare of the factory lights. Despite the intense illumination, we really appreciate the on-site camping. Made our pickup much easier and less stressful.

Congratulations! 🙂

Frank: I like your approach of having two safety supports at the tire change side. In addition, I only jack up my OE2 ATTACHED to my truck. Parking brake set of course. So, should something upset the apple cart, I'll have three safety points. Nothing like having a 6,000 pound truck as an anchor. 🙂 GJ

FYI, that red southern Utah dust is full of iron, 1% + iron oxide, thus the red color, it gets on printed circuit boards and unsealed butt splices and wire terminals. Add a little moisture, like in your fridge compartment, and you can get serious corrosion, if it is a bad enough layer it could actually short things. After my trip to Canyonlands my LX450 trailer lights quit working, I opened up the split loom protecting the wires and red dust poured out, and two splices were severely corroded..They don’t mention this at the Utah or Moab visitor centers. I live the red rock country, but not the red dust. If a bunch gets inside your Ollie you could have issues. John Davies Spokane WA

I suspected sail switch, also, but surprised when furnace worked above 50. Maybe some Utah dust finally blown away after many attempts,? I doubt it's a low voltage issue, as I'm pretty sure @routlaw has lithium? Not sure. Cold temps affect la battery output more than lithium batteries. I will say, my old suburban on agm has never had these issues. But I've seen others with control board issues, as well, in newer trailers. I "think" the newer suburban furnaces have a two or three year warranty. I'd be checking in with suburban, especially since routlaw says the fridge still runs on gas. That's usually much more sensitive to propane issues than the furnace. Very helpful troubleshooting, @Steph and Dud B. Thanks.

Looks like the decision has been made.

This spring loaded one-way valve controls the grey tank ventilation. It is supposed to open under suction (like draining the tank) and close at other times (to prevent stinky odors). These are used in houses, and those are known to get plugged up. So you should perhaps check your Ollie vent every year or three.... especially if you are smelling the tank contents. You must remove the rear galley drawers - grab the two orange drawer thingies with your finger tips and squeeze them toward your palms, and lift the drawer up and out of the slides. The vent is right at the back upper corner: The little cap/ cover swivels around, you can pry it loose with your fingers to look inside. Push the plunger up and down a few times to make sure it isn't sticking. Here is what it is supposed to do: Here is an interesting comment from the Oatey FAQ about RV use: Q Is the Sure-vent approved for use in a RV? A Yes, with exceptions. When the RV is stationary, the Sure-Vent will properly vent the drains for the kitchen and bathroom. If the RV is in motion and depending on how the DWV system was assembled from the factory, positive pressure could stop the Sure-Vent from opening. I have noticed a very occasional stink when towing in especially challenging terrain - very steep grades, lots of increasing elevation change and lots of hairpin turns. I am not sure if the gases are coming out of this valve or out of the sink drain...? Or if that is even related. Amazon - Oatey 39012 1.5 in. NPT ABS in-Line Vent, Black FYI, my vent was not even visible, the sewer pipe assembly was hanging down unsupported, this thread might be worth looking at: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6721-how-to-secure-the-loose-grey-drain-vent-plumbing-under-the-galley/ At the very least, give the black pipe a shove to make sure it isn't flopping around, that motion can break glue joints. That is a whole lot of info about an obscure little device most people don't even know exists...:) I am not even sure if this is mentioned in the Owners documents. Can someone comment? John Davies Spokane WA

My neighbor has the same truck as you @CnC and it's a beauty. He loves his Hemi, too! Now I'm going to have to look up what an Air Lift bag is. Not that I'm lazy, but I'm solo, and I might want less work on occasion.

I guess it's time to report on our TV. No crew cab models will fit in our garage! That really limited our choices! A Ram Quad cab will fit in our garage - barely. I like the Laramie trim, but Ram has decided to nix the Laramie trim in the line up of 2022 Quad cabs. After a couple of months our dealer found one acceptable to us - a new 2021 Ram 1500 Quad 4x4 Laramie 5.7 Hemi eTorque with tow package. Love that Hemi ! We have pulled the E2 about a 1000 miles now. We have averaged 14.4 mpg in Arizona - that included all types of desert/mountain terrains. I typically do not drive over 65 mph. While this Ram tows well and the Ollie behaves well behind it, I'm going to add Air Lift 5000 bags. Not because it needs it, but because I'm old and lazy. We're planning three long "destination" trips this summer (almost 10,000 miles) and I'll be using "overnight pull throughs" whenever possible. In doing so, I'll simply adjust the air bags to suit the front/back leveling issue with the partially filled shallow tanks while still hooked up to the TV. Yah, I'm lazy.

It's been a heck of a week getting Ollie ready for her maiden voyage -- water pump issues last week, and now a propane leak. We had a couple of cold nights here since we de-winterized, so I opted to run the furnace overnight to make sure things didn't freeze. I noticed a distinct odor of propane this morning when I went into the camper to pack some more things. Oddly, the propane detector under the dinette was not going off, and was a steady "green". But it was definitely propane. Headed off to Home Depot to buy a sniffer, and that puppy lit up like a christmas tree as soon as I walked into Ollie with it. Huh? Checked all the fittings at the tank first, since we had recently switched over to gas stop valves, and all was good there (our leak, though, is clearly not big enough to trigger the gas stop function...). Next stop, the rear of the camper. No leak at the HW heater, but as soon I put my nose (and the sniffer) near the furnace vent, PROPANE. I called Oliver immediately, and Mike was quite surprised that we a) had a propane leak on a brand new camper, and b) that the propane detector was not sounding the alarm. He had us try tightening up the gas line connection inside the furnace compartment, but that didn't really help. Next step will be to schedule warranty service somewhere. He's also shipping us a new detector. Alas, service won't happen before our trip on Sunday, so propane will remain off at the tank. Also, fortunately, this isn't a dry camping trip, so we'll have access to electrical for HW and the fridge. We haven't converted our campchef stove to quick connects yet, so we'll be able to cook on that outside with a regular tank connection. We also ordered a Vornado ceramic heater for the chilly mornings we are expecting. Am I missing anything? New camper pains....

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-10695961/Indiana-woman-rescued-Nevada-mountainside-reveals-husband-got-LOST-following-GPS.html I have been following this for a week. They made a WHOLE lot of very simple mistakes that added up to personal disaster. They were not even able to backtrack properly in their TOAD, and that also got stuck on a side track…. Please, don’t follow your gps blindly, and never venture into the remote boonies without a satellite communicator and adequate emergency supplies. This spot is truly remote. John Davies Spokane WA