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Hi All! We are on our way to the International Balloon Fiesta and and will be staying Monday-Thursday in the VIP West (Harvest Host) area. Anyone else heading that way and/or interested in an impromptu meet-up? We are currently Airstreamers, but ordered our Ollie last week, so expectant family members. We’re full-timers and heading to Alaska next summer. We’d love to meet up with other travelers. Cheers, Jason (The Captain), Kelly (The Admiral) & Stormy (The Ensign)

I think the easiest way to think of solar is it's just another battery charger. If you don't want anything charging your batteries, include solar in your list of chargers to turn off. I have Lithium batteries as well, and I don't keep any of my battery chargers on all of the time because the Lithiums don't always like to be at or near 100% as you mentioned. Our hull #688 (2020) has a nice solar cutoff switch in the cabinet above the street side bed. Hope this helps!

For those of us who are dog lovers, IKEA has rubber coat hooks which are normally hung with a screw but a command strip will also stick it securely to gelcoat. I put one up near the bathroom door as a coat/leash holder. https://www.amazon.com/Ikea-Hooks-Mounted-Hanger-Green/dp/B01G69TM84/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=1LYH4THAC7HLH&keywords=ikea+dog+tail+hooks+for+wall&qid=1664730182&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjk0IiwicXNhIjoiMi40NCIsInFzcCI6IjIuMzkifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=ikea+dog%2Caps%2C240&sr=8-9

If you camp in humid areas where morning dews are common, wait until the trailer and your truck are wet - the bugs have soaked overnight (“hydrated”) and come off a lot more easily in the morning. John Davies Spokane WA

One of the great features of the Oliver trailer design is the fast and easy (no tools needed) access to ALMOST all of the plumbing, heating, and electrical systems through the hatches under the dinette seats and the beds, or by removing the kitchen cabinet drawers. One area that’s NOT readily accessible is the area under the bathroom vanity, even though there is plumbing, electrical, and furnace ductwork all tucked inside the vanity. The storage cubby in the front of the vanity is screwed AND CAULKED in place by Oliver at the factory, so access is a bit more complicated than the other areas. I recently needed to get into that vanity area for some inspection and maintenance, and after completing that I wanted to make future access easier (no tools needed and no caulking). I know some owners have replaced the storage cubby with a hinged marine access panel, but I didn’t want to lose the cubby storage. So here’s a detailed description of a simple modification I did, along with links to the parts used. Access is now fast and easy. No-Slip Clip-On Barrel Nut, for 0.025" to 0.15" Panel Thickness, 8-32 Thread Size https://www.mcmaster.com/94850A111 #8-32 x 1" Thumb Screw Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FZVLZKD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share uxcell Edge Trim U Seal Extrusion, Silicone White U Channel Edge Protector Sheet Fits 0.5-2.5mm Edge 3Meters/9.84Ft Length https://a.co/d/1uWUZB3 Molex -3 Match Set - (3-Pin) w/14-20 AWG, Wire Connector - 2.13mm D, Latch Lock, MLX https://a.co/d/gapvioi

1. I noticed that the rear bike receiver blocks the 2 rear red reflectors so I added a couple of red oval reflectors to the bike receiver mount. I wanted to be sure the trailer was visible when parked at night. [ALL STAR TRUCK PARTS] Oval Reflectors Red/Amber Self Adhesive Or Drill Mount Quick Mount SAE 13 DOT (Red, 2) https://a.co/d/4ormHOs 2. The electronic lock doesn't give you much to hold onto on the interior side. I can see how others lost control of the door on windy days. Didn't want to risk the same damage so I added a grab cord to the interior lock handle. On a windy day you can grab this while you open the door. I just looped it through the existing hole at the top of the handle.

We have a 2022 Elite 1. When we are not using it, I typically turn off the lithium batteries at less than 100%. Should I turn off the Solar? It seems to wake and sleep on its own , so I have never done anything. Am I missing something? Thanks for your help, Lori

One of our fellow Oliver owners/forum members, Foy Sperring, makes many items for the Oliver trailers. One of the items is a kitchen drawer organizer. We have the nightstand drawer organizer and it’s been very useful. Here’s a link to his catalog: https://drive.google.com/file/d/17XFL_5ine1WusHVKYguUBRmkj2KnJUN_/view?usp=sharing

This is probably what you're looking for:

I like the yellow microfiber from costco, and the yellow ones from restaurant depot. The ones from harbor freight and Walmart don't work as well, for some reason. I know you have a lot more bugs up your way. But I learned that trick in Alaska, where I was having trouble removing several weeks of bugs from an unwaxed rv. A nice lady at Northern energy's free carwash in Tok gave me a microfiber cloth, and voila...well, elbow grease, and voila. Maybe we'd soaked it longer with the free cold water wash? Good luck.

A hose, a bucket of water with car wash soap, a soft carwash brush, and microfiber cloths. And, topgun2's brand if elbow grease. Good microfiber cloths actually make pretty quick work of bugs, without a lot of work. (Our trailer is waxed twice a year. Prevention is the best policy, imo.)

We do too.

Elbow grease?😄 Used fabric softener dryer sheets with spray wax/detailer of your choice. Bill

To alleviate confusion, I split the three responses from Elite 1 owners to a new thread, even though each clearly identified themselves as Elite I owners. Obviously, with a different trailer, single axle and two tires, our requirements will be different. I looked through the responses to the poll, and clearly, mostly Elite II owners responded to the poll, with the vast majority running 50 to 60 pounds. I'd say the poll pretty clearly shows most Elite Ii owners are now running at the current Oliver recommended pressure, somewhere plus or minus 55. Only 2 Elite owners that I saw actually responded to the poll, so it's pretty irrelevant to the numbers.

Mike, we pick up on November 7 and chose the Truma. It was more expensive, but from what I read in the forum, most people don't like the Dometic. Oliver did a video comparing the two a couple months ago with decibel ratings. I don't know if there have been many installed yet. I don't know how the Truma compares to the Houghton. John

Steve: I posted last year another surce of what you documented. Mine only required a minor adjustment to the window track water mlanagement strips. Between your and my posts I think we have complelmentary things to look at when suspecting a leaking window area. GJ

The answer appears to be: To give us something to ponder. 🙂

Not yet. I sent my request to cooperinfo@coopertire.com on 8/18/22. Oliver should include this information in their Ollie operators manual. Great information, Thanks!

Mike, Great, going to keep a copy in my operators manual and inflate accordingly, with first pressure reduction test to 45PSI. I still have not received a reply to my email request, but I did not contact Eric either. Thanks, Bill

I also contacted Eric @ Cooper Tires with a request to provide load rating table. He sent me the attached. Note at 45 psi cold the LT rating equivalent to my Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT 225/75R/16 shows a max load rating of 1630 lbs per tire. In my case, this is more weight than I typically travel with. Cooper Contact Info: Eric Consumer Relations Specialist Cooper Tire and Rubber Company 1-800-854-6288 Monday-Friday 8:00am-5:00pm EST

John & Dave, appreciate the inflation charts. Sent a request to Cooper for a inflation chart for the Cooper Discoverer HT3 Commercial Light Truck 225/75R/16 tires we installed last year, but no reply yet. Believe this is the current tire Oliver installs, too. We keep our LE2 Ollie's ready to camp weigh around 4950 pounds with empty tanks except for full 6 gallon hot water heater that is full except for winter camping when Ollie's ready to camp weight is around 4900 pounds. Like ScubaRX, we also have 5200 pound axles that were installed when Ollie was built, Oliver ran short on Dexter 3500 pound axles, so Legacy Elite Dexter 5200 pound axles were installed that have larger bearings and brakes. We ran Ollie's trailer tire pressure at 50PSI cold for the last six years. The BF Goodrich Commercial LT tires that were original equipment & Cooper Discovery HT3 LT tires we mounted have maximum capacity of 2680 pounds each @ 80PSI. The maximum weight we have on each tire (in our situation) is only 1238 pounds each without subtracting tongue weight on TV while towing. Also thinking about reducing pressure on the next camping trip, probably 45PSI cold after discussion in another thread. I also keep a digital thermometer for checking various temps from bearings, tires, battery compartment, and anything that looks like it needs to be checked 🙂 on camping trips.

Reminder that replying to the OP is useful, however it is not responding to the poll. Please participate in the poll by checking the box and submitting your vote. It will be useful to all if we can see where we are, and the results might be beneficial to Oliver, if we can get enough data points. The placard decal on 2021 Hull 797 is exactly the same as JD’s 2017. I’ve already voted above, but I run 45psi, check frequently with digital temp gun. I have a TPMS. I have tested the tire pressure several times by running them up to 60 psi for awhile on the highway, measuring temps, then airing down to 45, and checking temps again at next rest stop. No noticeable temp increases. If you are reluctant to reduce psi this low, you could try this test yourself. If your tires do not increase in temperature, your data confirms you have made the right choice. And more importantly (as JD pointed out), it is in accordance with the tire OEM. Based on JD’s reported good performance, I’m going to try lowering to 42 psi. Running this low may not be for everyone, as we all run at different weights, speeds, and road conditions.

I keep the tires on the Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 set between 60-65 psi. I formerly ran them all at 80 psi. I think that is too high. As for running them at 55 psi, I think that is fine for most owners. The reason I run more is our trailer is heavier than most all the others (raised bed option, twin 5200 pound axles, 10 ply all steel tires, disc brakes). As has been said MANY times in the past, everyone should buy and install a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). There are many brands available, Do your own research and select one based on your personal needs and wants.

It really is confusing because everyone seems to have a different answer! When we asked the service dept at Oliver we were told recommended psi is 55.

Correct. The relay just replaces the furnace control function of the thermostat control module in the Dometic AC. The blue and blue/white voltage wires to/from the furnace go to the relay contact terminals. I rewired the green and yellow conductors in the thermostat cable to route ground to the replacement thermostat and back to the relay trigger input. The red conductor is unused. (Mine only had the three) Except for connecting the new thermostat, all rewiring is done overhead and straightforward. This may not be the cheapest solution but, considering the labor rate for a tech to pull new wires, it might be. Another possible issue “could be” the thermostat contact rating. In order to direct wire it to the furnace, the minimum rating would have to be 7.5 amps @ 12 volts DC. (I’m assuming this is an LEII furnace) It might be hard to determine for residential thermostats but your tech needs to verify this rating.

Let me preface this story by making it clear that I am NOT a hunter but I do now understand why we SHOOT deer in the wild... I never liked the taste of venison, too gamey or too wild or too something. So, I had this idea ...that I could rope a deer, put it in a stall, feed it up on corn for a couple of weeks, then kill it and eat it. The first step in this adventure was getting a deer. I figured that, since they congregate at my cattle feeder and do not seem to have much fear of me when we are there (a bold one will sometimes come right up and sniff at the bags of feed while I am in the back of the truck not 4 feet away), it should not be difficult to rope one, get up to it and toss a bag over its head (to calm it down) then hog tie it and transport it home. I filled the cattle feeder then hid down at the end with my rope. The cattle, having seen the roping thing before, stayed well back. They were not having any of it. After about 20 minutes, my deer showed up-- 3 of them. I picked out a likely looking one, stepped out from the end of the feeder, and threw my rope. The deer just stood there and stared at me. I wrapped the rope around my waist and twisted the end so I would have a good hold. The deer still just stood and stared at me, but you could tell it was mildly concerned about the whole rope situation. I took a step towards it, it took a step away. I put a little tension on the rope, and then received an education. The first thing that I learned is that, while a deer may just stand there looking at you funny while you rope it, they are spurred to action when you start pulling on that rope. That deer EXPLODED. The second thing I learned is that pound for pound, a deer is a LOT stronger than a cow or a colt. A cow or a colt in that weight range I could fight down with a rope and with some dignity. A deer-- NO Chance. That thing ran and bucked and twisted and pulled. There was no controlling it and certainly no getting close to it. As it jerked me off my feet and started dragging me across the ground, it occurred to me that having a deer on a rope was not nearly as good an idea as I had originally imagined. The only upside is that they do not have as much stamina as many other animals. A brief 10 minutes later, it was tired and not nearly as quick to jerk me off my feet and drag me when I managed to get up. It took me a few minutes to realize this, since I was mostly blinded by the blood flowing out of the big gash in my head. At that point, I had lost my taste for corn-fed venison. I just wanted to get that devil creature off the end of that rope. At the time, there was no love at all between me and that deer, but I figured if I just let it go with the rope hanging around its neck, it would likely die slow and painfully somewhere. At that moment, I hated the thing, and I would venture a guess that the feeling was mutual. Despite the gash in my head and the several large knots where I had cleverly arrested the deer's momentum by bracing my head against various large rocks as it dragged me across the ground, I could still think clearly enough to recognize that there was a small chance that I shared some tiny amount of responsibility for the situation we were in. I didn't want the deer to have to suffer a slow death, so I managed to get it lined back up in between my truck and the feeder - a little trap I had set before hand...kind of like a squeeze chute. I got it to back in there and I started moving up so I could get my rope back. Did you know that deer bite? They do! I never in a million years would have thought that a deer would bite somebody, so I was very surprised when ..... I reached up there to grab that rope and the deer grabbed hold of my wrist. Now, when a deer bites you, it is not like being bit by a horse where they just bite you and slide off to then let go. A deer bites you and shakes its head--almost like a pit bull. They bite HARD and it hurts. The proper thing to do when a deer bites you is probably to freeze and draw back slowly. I tried screaming and shaking instead. My method was ineffective. It seems like the deer was biting and shaking for several minutes, but it was likely only several seconds. I, being smarter than a deer (though you may be questioning that claim by now), tricked it. While I kept it busy tearing the tendons out of my right arm, I reached up with my left hand and pulled that rope loose. That was when I got my final lesson in deer behavior for the day. Deer will strike at you with their front feet. They rear right up on their back feet and strike right about head and shoulder level, and their hooves are surprisingly sharp... I learned a long time ago that, when an animal -like a horse --strikes at you with their hooves and you can't get away easily, the best thing to do is try to make a loud noise and make an aggressive move towards the animal. This will usually cause them to back down a bit so you can escape. This was not a horse. This was a deer, so obviously, such trickery would not work. In the course of a millisecond, I devised a different strategy. I screamed like a woman and tried to turn and run. The reason I had always been told NOT to try to turn and run from a horse that paws at you is that there is a good chance that it will hit you in the back of the head. Deer may not be so different from horses after all, besides being twice as strong and 3 times as evil, because the second I turned to run, it hit me right in the back of the head and knocked me down. Now, when a deer paws at you and knocks you down, it does not immediately leave. I suspect it does not recognize that the danger has passed. What they do instead is paw your back and jump up and down on you while you are laying there crying like a little girl and covering your head. I finally managed to crawl under the truck and the deer went away. So now I know why when people go deer hunting they bring a rifle with a scope......to sort of even the odds!! All these events are true, so help me God...An Educated Farmer

NPS put this out on social media, in a humorous attempt to make more people aware of the dangers. Every year, we see reports of folks trying to interact or take selfies with wildlife, with disastrous and sometimes fatal results . None of us, I'm sure.

Interesting, with the higher cfm capability of the 13.5 it might move the same air on low as the small does on high. That would be a 7db difference which is substantial.

I’m not sure what the actual numbers are for the two units. The screenshots below are from the user manuals and probably represent worst case scenarios…

The Recpro website has decibel rating for both the bigger one is actually a little quieter. There is a $400 price difference. Not sure how much I would use the heat pump portion of the system. Has anyone found themselves using it for heat? 13.5 unit Decibels: Indoor High speed: 56 decibels • Indoor Low speed: 47 decibels o Outdoor: 67 decibels 9.5 unit Decibels: • Indoor High speed: 54.7 o Indoor Low speed: 51.4 o Outdoor: 67.9 John

Spike installed a 9.5 btu in his elite 2. Here is some info that Spike relayed to me. unit: 9.5 • Input needed for cooling: 1370 W • Rated current for cooling: 12.6 A • Maximum power input: 1590 W • Maximum current: 14.6 A unit: 13.5 • Input needed for cooling: 1300W • Rated current for cooling: 12Amp • Maximum power input: 1550W • Maximum current: 14Amp So there's very little difference between the two units as far as power consumed to run them but you would be giving up the heat pump feature that the 13.5 has. When I tested my 13.5 for amp draw, Olivers monitor that is in the attic was reading 10 amps when the compressor was running.

Atwood and Houghton are both common in Australia, but as far as I know, neither is made there. I'm looking forward to dimetic freshjet, now available only as retrofit in USA. Eventually, US will catch up with eu and Australia.

@Minnesota Oli, and just the likelihood of being able to secure components, with today's broken supply chains, imo.

If I were a manufacturer (who has to support the warranty) I'd follow the manufacturer installation instructions to the letter. Since some of us have gone rogue, and we're on our own, we chose a slightly different install method for our 2008, not outside normal bounds, but not per houghton. A neoprene gasket of good quality, instead of silicon caulk. We will see how it works out in the long run . I wouldn't encourage any manufacturer to depart from listed install instructions. Too risky. 4 bolts hold your ac on the roof. It's really important that you get it right. And keep it right. Imo. I don't really care that the condensate runs down the trailer roof and side, as we rarely use ac, anyway. Others might. I would truly have been fine with a second fan install, and would have saved a bunch of $$$, and still would have had more room for my bigger solar panels, which we also installed ourselves.

https://www.nrs.com/ethafoam-blocks/pxkv?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=1672873107&utm_content=68835701990&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAiAp8iMBhAqEiwAJb94z0uouUdxPvFm7ihNxq3GIntqQBJiImQQFLgVrm7c6Ds00S4PuKipBxoCYU8QAvD_BwE Available in 1" or 2". The 1" thickness should work, as it is much more compressible than HDPE, and so would compress enough to leave about a 5/8" gap for the drain hose once the top and bottom parts of the unit were secured using longer screws.

Not trying to be Oliver R&D (Who ever that is at Oliver per Topgun2), but the engineer in me thinks from a structural perspective, HDPE would be perfect. However, from a vibration perspective something softer would be preferred. Sort like a rubber composite with some give to absorb vibration, but also enough dimensional stability to keep its' height. That would take some research, but such materials do exist. For example the large diameter Concrete Sewer Lines, or Blue Brute both use a "Rubberish" gasket that has bulk, some compressibility, but dimensionally stable when compressed to the desired thickness. Lets say for talking purposes, that we wanted to use a 1/2" OD tube, then the spacer/gasket may be 3/4" think and compresses down to just almost a half an inch for tube passage. Would have some sponginess for vibration, but still give the anchor bolts resistance. REALITY CHECK: All that neat engineering overkill may be needed, but then if the Houghton does not have any vibration then HDPE would be a lot easier. 🙂

So true.

@Geronimo John since you're probably heading back to Hawaii soon, I'd keep an eye out for new developments and reviews. Our houghton 9.5 is a great unit for our smaller Elite. We've not tested it in temps above the 90s. The older I get, the less I desire to test myself in those temps. There are many variables we haven't tested on our smaller Houghton, because we rarely need/use ac. I can tell you that it is very, very quiet., when I tested it at home in Florida Our install doesn't leak. That's about it. All summer, in the Appalachian mountains, it hasn't run. I've worn long pants and sleeves, all summer. I'm definitely not the person to ask about 100+ degree weather. Not my thing, and we'd be on the road, toward cooler temps, if that were in the forecast. It's about 60 here, north side of the mountain, southeast of asheville. Fall seems to be arriving early.

Can you elaborate more on the drain incompatibility issue? Reason I am asking is the Houghton unit is significantly shorter in height than our turbojet hammer mill OEM unit. As such, maybe we could use some of this height for this drain issue. One example for pondering would be to install rubber mat or conveyor belt section(s) on the roof of Ollie under the Houghton unit? It possibly could provide two benefits and still be shorter than OEM: A bit additional sound deadening. Not all that necessary with the ultra quiet Houghton, but some benefit none the less. Many older RV's use mats for this purpose. A potential access and gravity flow path to the existing Oliver installed drain system. Your thoughts? Thanks, PS: Any owners installing a new Houghton: Please send pictures of the Oliver and Houghton drain systems if you can. GJ

This Aventa unit has a cooling power of less than 8200 BTU's (2400 watts). That might work fine for an Elite, I'd not try it in our Elite II. Also, it's currently only available in 230 V – 240 V ~. 50 Hz models.

That would likely be a good choice, as Oliver already has a good business relationship with Truma. The Truma German engineering is tested in eu, long before it gets here .

Looks like a nice unit. Dometic better up their game….

Minnesota Oli I am in the process of changing from a Dometic A/C to the same unit you just installed. I see you also installed the easy start for your unit. Can you maybe provide a wiring diagram on your install? It looks like you may have made brackets to hang the easy start on? I see a junction box for the wires. Did you add that? I installed the easy start on my last a/c but it had a diagram to follow. I don’t want to screw up a new a/c so I would appreciate your expertise. Thanks. Thermostat issues for heat can be resolved using a Honeywell Pro TH 1100DV1000 thermostat. Intercept two wires that come from the furnace to the Dometic a/c control box and use two of the wires that go to the current Dometic digital unit and attach them to the Honeywell unit. The Honeywell uses double A battery that you change once a year. The thermostat just makes and breaks the connection when you call for heat and the Honeywell unit is not very expensive.

I suspect you might see an option when supply chains clear up. Right now, it's hard to get a lot of things. I know one manufacturer offered the coleman ndq quiet ac, and had to backorder, ad they could not get them . I waited two or three weeks for my model to come into stock. I can do that. A manufacturer can't. I do hope so, anyway. Right now, it's tough to find syp good lumber, electrical conduit, parts. And that's just our projects. Everything has increased exponentially in price in building materials. I never thought I'd have to pay almost 17 dollars for 10 ft. 2 x 6 boards, but I did, today. And was happy to find 20 in stock that looked good. I waited 3.5 months for common size windows, usually 3 to 7 day ship. It'll get better.

I called RecPro technical support with questions about the dehumidifier and how it functions. I sent them a graph that showed the humidity going up (or holding steady) rather than down when I used the dehumidify function. The response was that I likely had the temp set on the unit too close to the room temp. The owners manual says to set the thermostat 1 degree colder than the room temp, so I did (in Fahrenheit) - turns out it's 1 degree C and not 1 degree F. 🙂 So the recommendation was to set the thermostat AT LEAST 5 degrees F cooler than the room for the dehumidifier to operate as it should. When I followed these recommendations, I did see condensation falling off of the roof finally! Haven't had a chance to measure the humidity drop, but water is a sure sign things are working better.

And, a couple short videos, recording the sound on low from small dinette, and high from the bed. I suspect it will be a bit more quiet when I reinstall the shades, and the rest of the cushions and rugs. Sounds still echo a bit without the soft surfaces. 20210418_084422.mp4 20210418_084309.mp4

I left the dehumidifier function on overnight, instead of ac, to reduce power consumption. I don't have a hygrometer, so nothing scientific to report. It certainly felt better in the trailer than the 88 per cent humidity outside. There is a low kind of pulsing "hum" when the compressor runs, barely audible above the fan. Outside the trailer, it's also very quiet. I was hesitant to run the old unit in the sideyard, because I didn't want to annoy my neighbors. So, initially, at least, we're both happy. Let's hope it doesn't get noisier with time.

We picked up the trailer Friday, and I've been working on putting the interior back together. It's been warm and humid, so I enjoyed running the new quiet ac. I downloaded a decibel meter, and took a few readings from the small dinette area. Note the averages are "high", because the meter records every screenshot click as 81 decibels. On a few shots, you can see the bump of a screenshot being recorded on the graph. All the sound levels have been lower than normal conversations (60 db), so I'm confident we can sleep comfortably or carry on a conversation with the ac on.

My Ollie is on the road for over 100 days during the summer and washing while traveling is essential. Whether you use Rejex or Meguires Flagship Marine wax (Very similar to Rejex, but quite a bit less costly) about once a week, a wash is essential. Upon arrival at a Military Family RV Camp, I make it a point to politely ask the park manager his policy on washing of RV's. At military FAMCAMPS, it is OK about 90% of the time. However, rarely is it permissible to to wash the Tow Vehicle (TV). That said, the etiquette question still comes into play. How you wash your trailer makes a lot of difference. Some suggestions on etiquette washing that I follow are: If the trailer has mud on it, don't wash it at the FAMCAMP. I don't wash Ollie if there is any possibility of disturbing others. I try not to waste water (and protect your trailer's finish) by using a two bucket approach. I use absolutely the minimum amount of soap necessary if any! I use biodegradable soap and use it very sparingly. I make sure that is no runoff from my parking area. I make near zero sound when washing (No conversations, music, high velocity water noise, bucket bumping, are examples to avoid.) I wash Ollie at a reasonable hour, not when the neighbors are asleep. If there is any doubt, or if I do not have explicit permission, the I won't wash Ollie. If I can not wash my Ollie within these parameters, then I'll either go to the base car wash before arriving or when departing the FAMCAMP. If not at a military FAMCAMP, then I follow John and SeaDawg's advice. One final thought: Never, never ever wash anything outside of your rig at a Walmart Super-center or other establishment which has been so kind to allow us to park overnight. Frankly etiquette at these wonderful locations should be taken to an extreme, and deserves a separate thread. Welcome to our Oliver Family!