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I have been out camping in NM, SoCal and AZ since mid-Dec. Observations are as follows: AZ -While State Park campsite reservation systems have often shown no spots available, up to 1/3 of the campsites remain empty. Talking to camp hosts at several of the campgrounds they blame people who make reservations, pay and then don’t show. So no spots available but many spots empty. Frustrating! NM -State Park campgrounds continue to fill up in improved campgrounds with hookups. Where available, room remains in campsites without hookups -the “reserve, then no-show” behavior noticed in AZ does not appear to be impacting NM State Park campgrounds ability to fill the improved campsites SoCal -had no issues finding campsites in FCFS areas within Joshua Tree -had no issues finding campsites with hookups or without hookups along the I10 corridor General observation: AZ and NM seem to be about as busy as they were during the 2020/21 and 2021/22 Winter seasons. Even though the Canadians are back in full force, there does not seem to be a overload at State Park campgrounds or boondocking/BLM areas (including Quartzsite). This tells me that more people are parking their RVs and not coming out to camp this Winter. I just wish they would cancel their reservations so the rest of us can use the sites that sit empty.

Its all about the bass

My trailer is also off site at this time but it's easy to open the fuse panel under the dinette seat. my recollection: its pretty standard stuff 7.5, 10, 15, 20 and 30 amp. Seems, I recall the 7.5 amp fuse for the furnace and fan may have been a bit unique but not hard to find. I do have a larger fuse ( maybe 40amp ) under the drive side bed next to the master power re-rest and in the battery compartment (positive side cable) . Not sure is this is stock from the factory I'm not the original owner of the 2016 trailer. check the owners manual starting on page 35 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Owners_Manual/2019/2019-Owners-Manual.pdf

I have this same Rubbermaid container and unfortunately mine is not water proof at all. I even attempted using a foam seal on the lid with no success. It only holds my Andersen plastic chocks and blocks so it’s not a show stopper. I drilled small water drain holes in the bottom rear corners to allow water to drain out. It works for what I need it to do.

Thanks Dewdev and Mossemi for the Rubbermaid suggestion. That looks like the ticket for me. Cheers, Glen

I have been really mad at how noisy my furnace is, it drives one of my dogs completely nuts. I plan to do an extensive thread on the changes, but I am not done yet, and I have some return airflow testing to do using HVAC smoke matches. I used a free sound meter app on my iPhone 13 Mini, so the actual numbers are probably not real accurate. I used these settings: I set my iPhone on the street side bed platform with the mic facing the furnace grill, and I put the two fiberglass access covers and the mattress in place over the furnace. (10” thick optional mattress.) I started recording, walked to the thermostat, started the furnace, let it run for about a minute, then let it shut off automatically before turning off the recording. There were no extraneous outside noises, the test was done inside my RV garage. Here is the initial test: Here is the final test: Before the mods, the furnace was irritating and screechy. Afterwards, it sounded a little quieter, but more importantly, it was much more even and mellow. I am nor sure how to interpret the graphs, but it appears that the peak red sound levels (dBa) are reduced, and the peak blue max frequencies are HUGELY affected, the peaks drop from 3000 hz all the way down to 300 hz. (!!!) And the green average sound level goes from a crazy pattern to a mellow even one, way lower…. I think that change is what I am hearing. My dog will like it. Comments welcome, especially from an engineer. FYI, if you want to get a feel for how much nicer it can be, find a high density foam pillow and stuff it hard over your return air grill. My mods are quieter… John Davies Spokane WA

@John E Davies I really like those panels. I will be looking into them for sure. I use a company called Felt-Right for some of my applications and am thinking about putting a nice design on the ceiling of my Oliver to cut down on some of the reflective sounds inside. I think the ones you chose are more appropriate for the application you used them for. The reason I asked about the fan motor was I had an air handler in my HVAC system years ago that had a squeak in the fan motor. You could hear it at every vent in the house. I opened the unit up and lubed the bearings with some spray white lithium grease and it was totally silent again! Regards, Brian

For our Hull #1291, I purchased this inexpensive collection of blade fuses: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G33XCHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It probably contains more fuses than I will ever need for the Oliver. I store it in the "secret" compartment below the pantry, underneath the velcroed piece of fiber granite.

Brian, I did nothing to the furnace before the tests. I did open the inside service panel for a look at the flame pattern afterwards. Thanks for the analysis, what do you think of those acoustic panels? I chose that type because they are just 1/2” thick, were very cheap and got good reviews. I only used 5 complete panels, the adhesive sticks very well but I taped the edges for a little extra long term security and for maybe a little extra shielding. That big raw wall was one big sounding board before applying the panels. There is still some fan noise coming out the heat register closest to the fan - shutting it helps, but that is sort of counter productive. I think that one big blue 3000 hz spike in the first graph shows the ignitor “snapping” - it will be nice to have that much more muffled at night for every time the furnace relights. Thanks again for the helpful comments. John Davies Spokane WA

John, For sure this is a huge difference, especially in the area of “human” hearing. I am not a sound engineer but have been in communications (wireless and wired) most of my life and read graphs like this on a regular basis. The scale, db (A), is what is called “A” weighted used to match human hearing. We typically have a perfect hearing spectrum of 20-20,000 hz (perfect hearing), but it is not LINEAR. In other words, when you listen to music at a low volume, the bass and treble are perceived to be less and the ear focuses on the voice range. That is why some sound systems have a “Loudness” curve to boost bass and treble frequencies under low volume but curve them down as you raise the volume. Just a little background. By smoothing out the curve, you have removed many of the sounds in the normal speaking range, which could interfere with you processing voice and actually irritate you. You have smoothed out the lows so they will not be as disruptive. All that will be good, especially for you (humans). Dogs have a different hearing curve and they mainly don’t like the irritants in the voice and especially really high frequency (e.g. dog whistle) which you don’t seem to have. Did you do anything to the actual fan motor in the furnace? Like lube the bearing and such? Just curious. Very nice work. I have sound panels all over my radio room and my home theater/listening room and might just follow suit on those lower compartments. I will be getting the Truma and it is VERY quiet but I never liked the location of the air return with NO FILTER. I got the strangest looks down at Oliver when I asked why the air return didn’t have a filter…mine will! Cheers, Brian

When we go 60 mph, I can relax and don’t have to worry about getting around trucks, etc. very much. They go around me. The difference between a hazard coming at me at 60 vs. 70 is pretty dramatic. Sometimes I’ll be in a hurry and go 65 mph but If I want an enjoyable and safe trip, 60 is a good number for us. Also, in California, the speed limit when your towing, is actually 55 mph.

I too really like the idea of using a silver paint marker to indicate the jack input for trailer raise/lower. Makes sense to have it right there during an problem. in 2018, when Phil toured my OE2 on delivery, he stumbled on describing which way to push the rear jack rocker switches. He by habit raised the trailer when he wanted to, but describing the logic of his habit was a problem. I stated, "So push the upper button to raise the trailer!" He commented that that was an easy way to remember it! So I continue to this day, every time I am about to reach down to those buttons, I think: "Trailer UP push upper button", and "Trailer DOWN push the lower button". So we have another extraordinarily moment for us, Your tomato is not my tomaddo. I will mimic the action of the trailer when the button is pushed for my labeling of the rear jacks, by labeling them in a similar fashion: · JD: Counter clockwise is jack up (Trailer Down) GJ: Clockwise trailer UP · JD: Clockwise is jack down (Trailer Up) GJ: Counterclockwise Trailer Down It also works like my ole screw jack. Clockwise and the truck goes up! Owners are you a tomato or a tomaddo? 😃 GJ

Jack shaft up. I encountered a frozen jack once, it would not budge in either direction. Knowing which way to relieve the load might be useful next time. The problem was actually (really) loose mounting bolts through the frame. John Davies Spokane WA

A few pics John Davies Spokane WA

I use the same Rubbermaid container to carry my Honda generator in the back of our SUV. I have never used it in the front basket because I don’t carry anything of value there. I have never tested it in the rain, but it does keep the gasoline fumes contained. You could always put some silicone or rubber edge trim around the top lip of the tub to create a gasket. Mossey

GRP: I am one of a number of Oliver Owner's that are using this Rubbermaid container in the front basket. It has gone through many rain storms without taking in any water. It is a Rubbermaid Action Packer 24 gallon container and I bought it on Amazon.

HERE is the thread on the slow blow fuses. Bill

Sorry for the thread hijack - but I trust you musical types that are going to be at the Rally are organizing an evening of picking! Just let us know what campsite or area and we'll be there. Bill

I picked one of these Craftsman containers up at Lowe's. They come in a variety of sizes. I may eventually upgrade to something nicer, like Kirk above @snakeriveridaho is planning to use, but for now, it works. CRAFTSMAN Medium 10-Gallons (40-Quart) Black Heavy Duty Tote with Latching Lid in the Plastic Storage Containers department at Lowes.com

I have a 2004 EU2000i I am not sure if the EU2200i would fit or not. My generator has to be sitting in the correct position so that the handle fits between the ribs of the inside top which run length wise. The pictures usually show the the outside of the top and those ribs run width wise. And I would say the price below is better than what I saw on Amazon. Mossey

Agree 100%. We routinely see empty campsites with reserved cards on the site. It’s inconsiderate. My brother owns a restaurant here in Boerne, TX. He had reservations for 290 people for last nights Valentine’s Day dinner. Steak and Lobster. 184 showed up. One customer bragged to my brother that he made reservations at 4 restaurants in town and decided on his. My brother asked if he canceled the other reservations and he said, NO! Why would he do that? My brother explained that he was turning people away who didn’t have a reservation and he had ordered food for all who reserved, so not canceling was totally inconsiderate. Maybe restaurants should require a deposit for reservations. Maybe campgrounds should charge a penalty for not showing up with no notification. How hard is it to make a call? Mike

I have 4 Rubbermaid Action packers that were purchased new, and first put into service in 2018 with our Sylvan Sport Go. They have never been water proof, and I did not buy them with that as a goal. I use one with my Elite II storage box for items that can wet. I would also like to know of a waterproof option, since none of mine seal enough to be considered even water resistant.

Brian: That is actually not a picture of my Oliver, it is a picture of someone else's rig that gave me the idea to buy the Rubbermaid box. I painting the tip of my receiver with a yellow paint and it shows up great in my rear view camera in my TV.

John, I have Firestone airbags on my current F-250 and have used them before. I also run Bilstein shocks on my truck and Timbren soft stops up front. The SuperDuty is a solid front axle and has a bit more of a rough ride than the F-150 so I added the Timbrens - noticeable effect on sharp potholes or rocks. Regards, Brian

With all due respect to Meghan and her Uke - I prefer the video I posted. Thanks for getting on this - it could be a real hoot. Bill

I purchased my furnace filter fabric from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SP23FP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The 4-square-foot piece is more than I will ever need, but it cost less than seven bucks.

That is a great idea, I think I will do both! My rationale, with that large vent opening and no intake filter, it will suck in lint, pet hair, human hair, even insects could get sucked in there and then, right into the Truma opening. It just doesn’t seem like it should all be wide open like that. I will certainly detail what I come up with but I do like your solution as a first step! Great idea. Brian

I have been making reservations for Oregon state camp grounds and National camp grounds in Oregon for the year, and within the first 8 hours of the dates being available 25% of the spots are taken. I learned from last year when 5 months ahead of time I only found 1 spot available along the whole Oregon coast line. Fortunately the federal parks in the cascades don't fill up as quickly, since you are basically boon-docking.

You're goin' to need a bigger ukulele?

That's an interesting point about no filter on the air return . The Truma is pretty quiet and it also has a 'night mode' for the fan which helps as well.

Two things - 1 - as you may already know - you need to register with Oliver 2 - you need to register/get a campsite with the State Park Even if the State Park has no available sites (I'm guessing that they still do have sites available) there are "bondocking" sites available very close by. Bill

We might be able to help with bass and guitar, not professionals but like to have fun :) John

Nice labeling John! John

I've also got three to sell when I can get the time to advertise them and have them ready to sell. Downsizing and consolidating, it's what we do at this stage of life. 😁

I just looked at my brackets, Hull 218 has black painted steel ones and they look fine. Then I pretty much hid them. John Davies Spokane WA

😆🤣😂

At nearly 70, and with osteoporosis, one of the reasons I'll be selling three motor scooters in the spring. All I need is someone on a cell phone knock me over and break a hip, or worse!

You might take a look at THIS thread for more insight. Bill

One of the reasons I stopped cross country motorcycle trips.😵

Since I store my Ollie away from my home I do not have it readily available. So, I simply don't remember what type of "blade" fuse is necessary - but - you can always simply pull one, take it to WalMart, Ace or any auto parts store and get a "kit" that includes a couple of fuses in the most common sizes plus a fuse puller (beats looking around for a pair of needle nose pliers). You will also need a couple of slow blow fuses for the jacks. There was a recent thread for those here on the Forum or you will find a yellow plastic/rubber protective case near the top of each jack. Inside that case is the slow blow fuse. Take it out, run down to your local NAPA store and buy a couple. Bill

I do not have experience with this particular trashcan. However, I think that smaller is better - its not exactly like there is a bunch of spare room in the bath area😉. Bill

There have been a number of these "containers" shown here on the Forum over the years. "High quality" and "waterproof" can be a bit subjective though. I'd start by looking through the "Mods" section of the Forum and/or doing a search for storage basket. Good luck! Bill

Bill, We gonna be in lot E-17 from 5/15-5/22/2023 at Lk Guntersville RV park for the Rally.........I'll have my Guitar with me for some old classic country & gospel...come on by! This being my first Oliver Rally I'll probably follow the music crowd as I'm not sure what to expect at this point. Vic

Welcome to the forums! Get the larger "rack" (stinger), if you install a sleeve it will provide more room for rattles and clunks. Its is always best to keep the number of parts to a minimum. But I have to ask, why are you even bothering with the Andersen? It is NOT needed with a HD pickup. Try towing with a simple dead weight ball and drop mount, rated for 7000 pounds or more. It will most likely be perfectly fine. Sell your Andersen on Craigslist. John Davies Spokane WA

EDIT 05/10/21. Made an alteration to the cable, added a Y connection to connect to a portable solar panel ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5478-how-to-remote-mount-the-controller-of-a-suitcase-solar-panel-not-inside-the-trailer/ I wanted a large gauge cord that would provide 12v power from the trailer to my ARB compressor fridge (while inside the parked truck), and also as an extension cord in the future for use with an external solar panel. I had been using a regular 120 volt AC extension cord, but that required me to run the inverter all the time and I did not like the idea of a live high-voltage cord lying outside in wet conditions. The 12 V cord is safer and uses way less power than the inverter. The short rear section will unplug itself, hopefully, from the front section if I drive away without disconnecting first. I do hang a red flag on the gearshift every time I connect this cable to the trailer, as a reminder! Parts used: Unlimited Solar 50 FT - 12 AWG Solar PV Multi-Conductor Tray Cable. Rugged and heavy gauge. Actually a little too stiff, it doesn't like going past the rear hatch seal when I run it into the truck. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KWGEODU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 CNLINKO 2 Pin Power Industrial Circular Connector, Male Plug, Fit Furrion RV Solar Port: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4RQ3X1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal. Heavy duty socket, dust cover, big wires, well built: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Powerworx Anderson Power Pole Connectors: The best choice for reliable exterior (or interior) connections, heavy duty and self cleaning contacts. I used the red/ black paired connectors, not the individual ones, and the 30 amp pins, which are for 12 to 14 AWG wire. It is impossible to connect them backwards. You can order packs of replacement parts from Powerworx to refill your kit.: https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors [attachment file=IMG_7251.jpg] [attachment file=IMG_7248.jpg] A special crimper is required: It would also be smart to order one or more of the pin extraction tools in case you make a mistake. [attachment file=IMG_7254.jpg] Instructions, getting the pin to click securely in place inside the housing may be tricky otherwise: https://powerwerx.com/help/powerpole-assembly-instructions If you don't have an external port on your Ollie, this is what the factory used on mine. I think it is standard equipment now. Be sure to use an inline 10 amp fuse to protect the trailer wires: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017P8H8PE/ref=twister_B017XOALKY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 The rear section of cable, 5 feet long, from the external port connector to an Anderson red/ black pair. The black sleeve is heat shrink tubing, shrunk and secured to the cable only. It provides some rain protection, which is not really needed. It does however keep the inside of the connector cleaner, especially if you drop it in the dirt.: [attachment file=IMG_7260.jpg] [attachment file=IMG_7261.jpg] Soldering the wires to the port plug is a challenge. You need to use rosin core electrical solder and a large high wattage soldering iron. The fat wires try to suck away all your heat. I added heat shrink where the wires entered, and "potted" the hole with silicone sealer to keep out water. The main section, 25 feet long, with an Anderson pair at each end. It mates to a 5 foot "inside" cable to power the fridge. It has an Anderson pair at one end and a fused DC round socket at the other. The red sleeves are so I can find the ends easily in bad light or against a dark background. [attachment file=IMG_7262.jpg] The inline fuse holder for the round socket, rugged and reasonably weather proof. I used a 10 amp fuse since that is the rating for the Furrion socket; the fridge draws around 3 amps when the compressor is running. [attachment file=IMG_7265.jpg] The spare 25 foot extension cable, with Andersons at each end. Plus a 5 foot scrap, to use to make an adapter cable to a solar panel, if needed. [attachment file=IMG_7266.jpg] It works great, coils up and takes very little room on the closet shelf, and I am happy with the outcome. I might suggest a cable with a softer outer casing for more flexibility, but this works. It is actually hard to find cable with a flat profile, which I wanted. Most are big fat round things. John Davies Spokane WA