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My wife and I have recently acquired hull #266 and are happy to be one of the few west of the Cascades. We've been lucky enough to try several campers over the years ranging from an RPod, to a Bambi, then a Basecamp, and now the Oliver Elite II. Each worked for us at the time but we learned what worked and what didn't through each trip. This thing is going to be well traveled and well loved!

We're in Crested Butte, Co this weekend and have had a wonderful fall-colors tour. Our Tundra took us smoothly over Wolf Creek Pass (10,800') and Buffalo Pass on CO 114 (10,300') with no signs of struggling at all. We travel fairly light - used less than 1150lbs of our 1400lbs useful load. Tongue weight right at 495lbs. Fuel mileage for the 748-mile trek came in at 13.5mpg. Casablanca at Buffalo Pass... The Tundra is a good match for how we travel with our OTT, IMO. Cheers!

There are a lot of opinions on tow vehicles, but a tour of any campground shows that the vast majority of people choose full size pickup trucks, 1/2 ton and up, as their tow vehicle. And that’s because it’s about a lot more than just the rated towing capacity of the vehicle. The payload (cargo) weight rating and tongue weight limits are important too, but as John mentioned above, also cargo volume (space) is a major issue. We tried towing with large body on frame SUVs (a Ford Expedition EL extended length, and a Nissan Armada), and found that while the towing weight capacity and cargo weight rating was adequate, the bigger issue with the SUVs was not having enough space for all the things that go along on extended long camping road trips. Things such as bicycles, outdoor rug, camp chairs, awning screen, folding picnic table, clothes drying rack, portable grill, Andersen jack buckets, leveling blocks, large rubber wheel chocks, X-chocks, portable solar panel, water filtration system, generator & gas can, portable waste tote tank, tools, some spare parts, roadside emergency gear, etc. It’s all stuff we actually do use on trips, some folks can get by with less 🙂. And a lot of the camping gear gets dirty/muddy at the campgrounds, so better to store that stuff in a truck bed than the carpeted/upholstered interior of an expensive plush SUV. We finally ended up with an F-250 which meets our needs.

The step brackets on the older frames are attached in a different place and mounting a current set of steps may involve some creativity. @CRM, I have an extra set of double steps that came off a trailer just a few hull numbers from yours that might bolt right up. We’d need to measure to make sure.

Given that the basic design of the twin turbos in the Tundra and the F-150 are the same - I can concur that I've never had a single issue towing with this type of engine since 2011 (two different Ford Ecoboost engines). And, when not towing the Elite II these twin turbos really are a blast to drive when you even think about putting your foot to the floor. Bill

That's exactly correct! Just a bit south and west of Sergeant Mesa along the Continental Divide Trail where the "Soldier's Stone" is located. We've been up there on our dual-sports and it's breath-taking; on many levels. "SS" is a monument dedicated to ALL those that gave their lives during the entire Viet Nam war, FYI. The turbos increase the rarified air at these elevations to slightly below sea level - the little V-6 thinks its grinding up a hill in San Diego instead of a 10+k' slog in the Rockies! Just a perfect match for the OTT...IMO. We boondocked THU - SUN last week using Renogy's 200-watt "suitcase" portable solar modules - our 3 Battle Borns would consume between 10 - 15% SOC during the day and with roof plus portable modules, we were back up to 100% SOC before 11AM on this sunny weekend, FYI. Headed down to Columbus, NM then across the border to Palomas in Old Mexico next weekend - totally opposite end of the WX spectrum in less than 7 days! Cheers to all!

That’s lots of weight. Our Ollie empty weight was lighter than yours when new. Our Ollie does not have factory solar, it only has one 100AH lithium battery, the Ollie spare tire is transported in the truck bed, and we have much smaller LP tanks installed than all Ollies come with. With different CAT scales weighing our rig over the years, weights posted are accurate. Saw the tool chest you keep in the TV, I keep a small 5 pound tool bag for repairs along with another 5 pound kit for PEX repairs.

The dry weight of our Oliver on our delivery day was 10-15% more than your camping weight. Our entire rig weighs almost 19,000 pounds ready to camp.

Yep, agree. Our 1/2 ton 2022 SR5 Crew Cab 3.4L twin turbo non- hybrid Tundra towing our LE2 does a fine job for our needs. The Crew Cab Tundra does a good job when Grandchildren visit, too. On a camping trip last week on the way to the campground decided to weigh the rig. We always weigh with close to a full fuel tank, two souls on board, and empty black/grey/fresh tanks except for full 6 gallon hot water heater. This trip we took our normal camping gear in the pickup bed with golf clubs, gear, and cooler in the back seat area. We played a neat mountain course on this trip, too. CAT scales weights Tundra and Ollie connected last week. TV steer axle 3080 pounds TV Drive axle 3560 pounds Trailer axles 4460 pounds Rig Weight 11,100 pounds Normally tongue weight is around 480 pounds how we normally load, did not disconnect TV this time to see tongue weight on this trip. The ready to camp weight of our LE2 is under 5,000 pounds. 2022 SR5 Crew Cab Tundra Maximum Weights GVW 6990 pounds GAWR Max front axle 4,080 pounds GAWR Max rear axle 3,860 pounds TWR Trailer Max weight 11,400 pounds GCWR Combined TV/Trailer 17,250 lbs Edit added document:

I've towed my '17 LE2 about 12,000 miles in two years with my '20 Tundra TRD Sport and find it more than adequate. I think the Anderson WDH is an absolute must with any half ton and I personally wouldn't leave home without it. The issue I have with my TRD is that the extra bells and whistles reduce payload. I pack light but if I were to tow in the mountains out west carrying more gear, I no doubt would want a 3/4 ton pickup!

Just got back from a trip to Steens Mtn, where I noticed the curb side USB was loose from the side of the nightstand. I am afraid of the possibility of there being a metal nut that might short the wiring and cause a fire. I haven’t looked to see if the two ports are in a front panel that can be unscrewed, but before I start tearing things apart, are there any words of wisdom about how to access the back of the USB port. The Steens were stunning as usual, with the first dusting of snow at the top. From the Alvord Desert side.

Agree, hard to believe how fast these pickup trucks are with the small displacement V-6 twin turbos. When the traffic is heavy and I have a gap in traffic to "blend in", it's more of a thought pulling out from a stop sign blending in with the traffic. Even when towing Ollie, it has plenty of power. Fuel economy is good with these engines, too.

I once heard a person talk about the music with a name that sounds like “wrap”, but is actually spelled with a silent “C”.

I believe what we have here is a failure to communicate. HDRider is asking if there is a way to turn off the entire water supply to the outside shower while FrankC is referring to the knobs/handles that are located on the outside shower itself that allow for water to flow from the outside showerhead when turned on. Bill

For what its worth - I've been told by the folks at Voyager that they have redesigned the seals on the camera which should take care of the leaking problem. We'll see ...... Bill

And, some of us don't carry folding picnic tables, nor bikes, awning screens, massive tool kits etc, etc. Some people camp a lot, in home state. Others travel a lot. Either way, what you carry depends on your own judgment. I think it's important to point out what you really should have, if you feel the need to carry a lot of gear. It's also important to recognize that some of us DON'T carry a lot, and don't "need" it, and don't need a huge truck. It all depends on our individual camping styles, and where we go. I've been super happy with my Silverado 1500 for over a decade, and it's my daily driver. But, my mom (88) now has a hard time getting into the cab, even with my smurf bars. I'm considering replacing it with an suv. (My husband's truck is way bigger, and impossible for her.) I'm watching the new , and used, offerings. I love my truck. And I can borrow an suv from my son-in-law, but that's cumbersome. I hate change, but, hey, sometimes it is what it is. Sometimes, we have to look ro the happy medium.

Make sure both valves (hot and cold) for the outside shower are turned off. If they are left open it allows cold water and hot water to mix in the plumbing system.

Chris - Hopefully its not too late - but - I'd email ASA (assuming that this is the camera you are talking about) and tell then that your camera has a moisture leak. Chances are they will tell you to send it in (with a return authorization number). They will "test" it for the failure you told them about and if it has really failed they will send you a new camera. This process takes right around 7 business days including the shipping time. Good luck! Bill p.s. unless you cut the wiring then the camera is connected to the power wiring via a "pin connector". Simply depress the latch on the side of the connector and pull it apart. The new camera will simply plug right back into that connector. Then just follow the instructions above to get the new camera to "pair" with the monitor.

We got a similar result when measuring the TUNDRA's curb wt last week at the CAT scales. Our curb weight came in at 5370 giving us a payload weight of: (6990 - 5370) = 1620lbs "useful load". Still, by keeping our payload in the 1150 range (which is all the gear we need) we're conservatively below the placarded 1400lbs payload Toyota printed on the drivers door sticker... Its good piece of mind knowing these weights!

Exactly, Bill - I really try watching that, but occasionally the TUNDRA finds itself in the "Sport" mode... Holy C**P! It's like going into "Max Burner"! What's the placarded "not to exceed" payload on your Ford Eco? Just curious. My buddy was hauling his new 25-foot AS with his '22 Nissan turbo-ed Titan on this CO trip from NM. A much heavier TT than the Ollie, his mileage was about 3mpg less than ours - but his tongue weight was almost double ours at 975lbs. We brought our tongue weight scale along with us and measured his yesterday before leaving CB. We quickly discovered he was a couple hundred pounds over his max payload of 1200lbs. Ugh! Not good.

So, there we were yesterday morning.... sitting in a booth having breakfast only an hours drive from the beach where we had just spent a nice quiet week enjoying the surf, waves, reading, and all things relaxing. First we noticed just how loud the diner's "music" was. Next we noticed just how BAD the music was. This resulted in a conversation about how our parents didn't appreciate OUR music just as we were not appreciating whatever this stuff was blaring from the overhead speakers. Certainly the Beatles could not compare to Frank! There was nothing in that 60's and 70's music that cold compare to Big Bands or even classical for that matter. I don't even know the name of that "screech owl" I was being forced to listen to, but, I do know that my music was real music and it was and is better!😁

@docron I’m a little late joining this conversation and I haven’t seen your final outcome, so I will add a little information that may or may not be of benefit. I know you have completed some initial troubleshooting and I would like a clarification on your statement above. Does it mean that you have used a 120V outlet tester which would test the output of the receptacle or have you removed the outlet cover and tested for voltage at the receptacle/wire connection which would test the input to the receptacle? If there isn’t any input voltage at the receptacle then as has been mentioned above, the problem is up stream and the junction box near the transfer switch would be the next test point. Then the transfer switch. The picture attached is from a 2017 LEII, but should be a fair representation of the components involved. Please let us know if you have solved your issue or if we can be of further assistance. Mossey

Been there - done that. I'll try to get you a pic soon. However, be forewarned - The cover that I did really didn't help with moisture in that my second camera also leaked! Having said that - the cover does help with glare and sun. Bill

Yes, we did.

Very well stated, Frank.

Maybe check out some of the vehicles in this article, below. Honestly, many of us,want a tow vehicle that does more than just tow. https://www.roadandtrack.com/rankings/g44424091/suvs-best-towing-capacity/

Your pic got me to think’n, mine are different so did some research. I have the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust electric brake setup, 2020 OLEll, 579.

Ditto: We had a call to Truma at one point and their first question was if we had an outside shower. Same issue fixed Truma as well. Hot and cold shower valves must be off or hot and cold water mix and the heater will run and only produce lukewarm water.

This is the things that you learn by watching (on the Forum) the problems, little discoveries, etc... and more importantly what they did to resolve the problem. After a while, you will develop a level of confidence in your ability to handle most anything that comes up in your travels. Bigger things... might require some support from Oliver... or can be fixed at home in your driveway where most likely you have access to more tools. I tend to go around my Ollie after I get home and check, clean, adjust, fix or whatever while things are fresh in my mind. Then after it's washed and waxed I put the cover on it while awaiting the next adventure.

2017 TRD Double Cab, used Sumo Springs, which are easy to install. Loaded everything down and headed off on a 5000-mile trip with the Elite II in tow. Went from North Idaho to Middle Tennessee and back, including side trips. The Tundra did a great job at all posted speeds. I was selective of what I took along and did not officially weigh the rig but I felt I was nearing capacity. Moving forward, I will be looking into an HD pick-up, something like GMC 3500. I would like to take along more things I consider essential for long trips. Would like to add a canopy with a bed slide and not worry about being overloaded. But if I was just going to vacation once or twice a year and do some local camping the Tundra is more than adequate.

Glad that was it. It’s one of those collective knowledge items that you get from this forum. I don’t think it’s actually documented anywhere in any of the instruction manuals.

Frank, Holy cow! That was EXACTLY the case. How in God’s creation did you learn that? Many, many thanks.

John/Wendy - so happy to hear you are both ok brother! Seems like little damage as well. I see everyone is assisting with their TPMS solutions and I would like to share something a little different that we have used many times on the road to help others. Thankfully, we have not had to use it on our own trailer(s). Anderson levelers makes a "Rapid Jack" and you essentially just roll up on it with your good tire and change your bad tire. Saves all the blocks and jacks that most of us are familiar with. Not trying to "sell" you anything, just for your awareness and anyone who looks at this. Here is a link to their video. Andersen Hitches Rapid Jack Cheers and "Go AIR FORCE"!! Brian

Here's a close-up of JD's favorite part - the self-adjuster! It appears to be a good design (perhaps not). The spring is very straight and evenly stretched. I disassembled one brake assembly completely, lot's of work and some cussing will be involved in getting these back together! Good maintenance would include applying some silicone grease (I use Napa Sil-Glyde) on the shoe contact points and inside the adjuster. This is a good product for all automotive brake systems. I have a full set of drum brake tools, from back in the day when my '67 Buicks had drums all the way around. A tool to compress the shoe pin springs and another to stretch the springs.

During all of your investigation, did you check the state of charge on the Lithonics app for each battery and the Xantrex app for the volts?

As John D. said above, I would start at the back of the GFI plug and trace backwards for power. You obviously have a functioning 120v system, just no power beyond the GFI, which will effect all other outlets. Likely a loose connection or a bad GFI. GFI's are very prone to failure. If you can eliminate any other problem, meaning you have 120 volts to the wires connecting to the back of the GFI, than letting Oliver service know they will probably send you out and new GFI promptly. If you don't have power at the wires on the back of the GFI, you will need to check at the next connection back that those wires connect to until you find the loose connection. Best approach is to fill out a trouble ticket. This allows the chain of management at Oliver service to monitor the progress and problems/solutions found. Regarding Oliver not willing to troubleshoot the 120v system, it sounds like some confusion has occurred. They will not troubleshoot beyond the shore connection, but the absolutely will troubleshoot from the shore connection to the internal systems of the camper.

I'm missing two black weep hole plugs, but I had completely forgot about them as I blocked them with white Gorilla duct tape, strong stuff. They blend in too well to remind me. I just now looked at them, after nearly 2.5 years outside, and they're still perfect. Maybe I should pull the other two plugs to match. I'm getting a bit of water inside with heavy rains. Or, like my walk-in door, maybe the frames are leaking. Since I pulled off the door fame off the hull and resealed, it's been perfect, no more leaks. Super easy job. I have a post somewhere in the forums. No vid yet, not sure how to organize content.

support@olivertraveltrailers.com Start a ticket as others stated. They have always been responsive. Whether it is Jason, Mike, or Hannah, I have always gotten support on electrical issues. Go under the front dinette and check the backside of the GFIC outlet for loose wire(s). Good Luck and please share the fix.

And, this is the case with thousands of these brakes. Yes, it is unfortunate when they do not work as designed. Yes, they are much more complicated as compared to the manual adjusting kind, but, for many people who do not or will not adjust their own brakes, the automatic ones generally do the job. Bill

Thanks Steph and Dud, I did not realize trailer brakes adjusted going forward. I guess that makes sense. Either way $600 or $800 ain't happenin' now! Good news for me, is the brakes have performed well so far. When I removed the drums there was just the right amount of pull, telling me they were adjusted properly. The only issue I found was bearing play in the wheel having some up-n-down wobble. More good news is I found 4 "Amazon Used" Monroe 555001 shocks at only $24 ea. Amazon used usually means damaged packaging and if any are bad, it's just another Amazon return. Mine did not look blown as some forums pics I saw, but internally they were shot. When removing, I pushed them down by hand and they just stayed there! They were the original yellow ones.

Rereading you're post,,with edits, I'd say 90 per cent, bad gfci, and a simple repair. Best of luck. Let us know how it works out.

You either have a 2000 watt or 3000watt inverter. The wiring diagrams are different. Which do you have? The microwave may be on a separate circuit from the other outlets which share one common gfci outlet. I concur that gfci plugs could fail, or a loose ground.

Our gfci shorted out and had to be replaced once on a Canadian trip. If you can't reset a gfci, there is either: no power to the circuit, possibly a loose connection, a bad ground, or a bad gfci that requires replacement. Does your gfci have any indicator light on it? If you have some indicator light, then you likely have power. Please complete your profile, or at least tell us what model/year trailer, power package etc., so that others can help you better. Do open a service ticket, with complete information and a phone number so someone can help you at Oliver service.

Shooting in the dark here but if your microwave is working your inverter is working. Possibly your GFCI outlet is at fault, hard to say. Oliver service will definitely help you, they're some of the best in the industry, try them again.

Since you did not fill in the information about your trailer, it would be really helpful if you told us which model trailer you have, what year it is, what kind of batteries, solar?, generator? Without much info to go on, I'm confused. You're camping with no hookups but somehow expected there to be 120 volts available from your outlets? You state that the microwave and A/C will run. The only place they can get power (in your situation) is from the batteries, through the inverter and only if your trailer has the Lithium battery package. Further you state that you "Called Oliver service and [they] would not help me, no tech support for anything 120v." This does not sound right. Who did you talk to?

Good info and thank you! Yes, one 30A on the outside for guests and one on the inside as well since I'll have a big enough service line to do so.

It sure is getting expensive to haul a couple of bicycles around. I sure do miss my banana seat and goose neck handlebars!

I looked around at Yakima's website and did not see anything, you should email them to make sure a travel trailer is included in that general RV approval statement. I do know that SOME Yakima products like my Rocket Box are not rated for "off-road' and the warranty terms specifically say that that is anything rougher than a smooth graded gravel road. So potholed forest roads are "off-road". 😉 Reopening that receiver worm can anyway: it makes no sense at all to a normal person to buy an $850 (!!!) bike rack with less than desirable features, as a compromise, simply because it will fit the small Ollie receiver. It makes far more sense to spend less for a wonderful 1-Up Super Duty Double rack ($665 shipped in silver) and simply change the receiver so that it works. It is a far better rack than any Yakima, and debatably better than the other good e-bike rated racks like the Kuat. The 1-Up is designed and sold here in the USA, has individual spare parts available, stellar customer service, and it can be added to with more bike trays or a cargo tray. But only two bike trays for off-road, max 75 pounds per bike. This too small receiver issue is so VERY frustrating, ain't it? It makes you want to storm into the Oliver headquarters and give somebody a good shaking 😉 John Davies Spokane WA

There are definitely more than two, but I have not counted. Read here…. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2424-sacrificial-zinc-anodes-on-the-frame-checking-and-replacing/ Here is a pic somebody posted there. John Davies Spokane WA

John, Be careful using aluminum anti-seize on stainless fasteners. Aluminum "anti-seize" turns into "seize" as the aluminum in the grease reacts with the stainless (the very thing you are trying to prevent by isolating the stainless bolts from the aluminum frame). It expands, turns to powder and locks the threads. I think this also makes the stainless bolts more likely to gall, which means they will never come apart and will have to be cut off. This is another lesson from being around a lot of boats. Copper based, or nickel based anti-seize is better. Even a good coating of Teflon pipe dope is better as it prevents water intrusion and lubricates the threads. I have also used silicon caulk. It works very well and also acts as a mild thread locker, if you need that function too.