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I passed on the propane QC (Quick-Disconnect) port option to save money, knowing that Oliver runs a terminated line to the rear. I now have fore and aft QC ports on my 2020 OLEll. Here’s what I did: The terminus line cap was simply removed and an MB Sturgis Quick-Disconnect valve fitting installed. This port is primarily used to fuel my Blackstone griddle, which is generally set up at or near the rear of the trailer, or to the curbside if there is a picnic table of close proximity. For the forward QC port, a ‘T’ fitting was installed in the existing line connection. A short hose was then installed leading to within reach through the propane housing screw port where another MB Sturgis valve was positioned. I did not want the QC port located low and exposed in like manner to the way Oliver installs them. This is the QC valve fitting with a 10’ hose connected. The 10’ hose is staged on top of the propane tank just inside the screw port opening. For use the screw port is first opened, the valve is opened and hose deployed. This port is primarily used to fuel a dual-fuel generator staged on the trailer tongue or TV tailgate, or with an added length of hose for a fire pit. QC propane ports in action!

Thank you for "The Rest of the Story"! It is a great team at OTT, one I call "World Class". Keep up the great work, Geronimo John

I understand what you mean now, but yes there was photo shoot and video that day. I thought your photo came from seeing it out on the road. It would make sense to wrap after the photo/video. I was also there that day and in the photos. It was quite the occasion and we were all very excited.

Willie was a dumpster cat. Now has a great home and the coolest cat we ever had.

Everything is good, no debate from me. We just want to make sure we get accurate information out here before it blows up into something that it isn't. Example hahaha:

Not sure about that particular one. Was it a private transport? Not sure. But I have seen them leaving our facility wrapped. Oliver really does take everything into consideration. I have never seen or heard of anyone at Oliver doing a "half-job" on anything. Ever. That's the Oliver Difference.

My guess is that the round exterior and by default, the round interior where the beds are is stronger than a squared off section would be. I remember the geodesic domes that were strong due to their shape. If it was square I would guess again that there would be more stresses on the corner. The round shape I believe is stronger. It's all a guess on my part. Maybe someone with a structural engineering background could verify yay or nay. More room on the bed in a rectangular shape would be nice, but I make it work for my feet facing aft. John

Now that about wraps up the wrap debate! 😄

The tanks are only ones that were used in the propane exchange program. If our tanks in our trailers have not been exchanged, this is a non issue. Below if from the CPC. GJ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Recall Details Description: This recall involves EVAS 20 lb. propane exchange cylinders with model number EVAS – M0859, a serial number beginning with a “W,” and a date code of either “06-23” or “07-23.” The model number, serial number, and date code are stamped on the collar of the cylinder. While the cylinders were initially sold with an AmeriGas label, consumers could have exchanged these cylinders with other propane distributors who would have then placed their own branded sleeve/label on them. Remedy: Consumers should stop using the recalled EVAS 20 lb. propane cylinders immediately, close the top valve completely and return them to any AmeriGas Propane Exchange retail location for a free replacement. Consumers can find exchange retail locations at https://www.amerigas.com/locations/find-propane. Worthington advises consumers to close the valve on top of the cylinder completely when returning them.

Mine had the rubber insert, edges a little chewed by pack rats. Like @MAX Burner wrote, it should not leak without the male connector inserted. Looked at mine again yesterday and the valve was at 45 degrees again, partially opened by our sewer hose, the end of the hose being right there. If I do not remove mine, I will use a zip tie to keep the shut-off valve at 90 degrees (closed).

That's a good question @mossemi - As a safety feature, the ball valve on the QD can only be opened if the spring-loaded collar is in its extended (normal) position. If the collar is pushed "back", it allows the user to insert the male connection of the LPG hose. When the connection is correct, the collar springs to its normal position allowing the user to open the ball valve. When disconnecting, the valve must be closed in order to push the collar "back" and pull out the male end of the LPG hose, therefore, not allowing a disconnect with the valve open. But since you ask... I'm curious.... I'm going to go check right now. STANDBY 10 min. later: ....OK, I'm back. After opening the ball valve and squirting soapy water into the female QD there wasn't any bubbles observed from a leaky QD fitting. But, now that you've brought this up, we're going to add it to our periodic maintenance procedure! We've always checked the QD with the LPG hose connected and gas valve open, but never without a hose connected. Good Call! Cheers!

@jd1923 i have also inadvertently opened my rear propane quick connect valve by accident, but I just emptied the tank. Never smelled anything. But I am not smart enough to say it’s a bad design. After all, this is my first and only travel trailer. I chalked it up as user error and moved on. But your recent issue caused me to rethink the issue and I think I’m going to try putting a quick connect plug together and see if it would stop a leak with the valve partially open. Has anyone else done this? Mossey

@Geronimo John What's a BLuetooth Radio? My bad! Poor choice of words. I consider any device that can receive, transmit or both an RF signal, a radio. Let’s use a cellular phone as an example. Smart cellphone's have several "radio's" inside of them. First is the cellular radio which is actually a transceiver, meaning it can transmit and receive RF/radio frequency signals. Second is the GPS radio which can receive satellite signals and provide location service when you are out of cellular service. The phone also has an A-GPS which is Assisted GPS which receives GPS data from the cellular network and combines it with the satellite data. A-GPS works better indoors where satellite signal are weaker. The third is the WiFi radio which is also a transceiver. The fourth radio is the Bluetooth radio which is a transmitter. Were you using a dongle or just the 712 Smart (Shunt and Display Combo)? I am using a BMV-712. If not using a dongle, does the 712 Smart System broadcast the Bluetooth "signal" from the shunt or the display? From the display. I believe part of the inherent Bluetooth transmit problem with the Smart Shunt is the placement of the Bluetooth transmitter which is stuck onto the shunt itself. It will never transmit an omnidirectional signal so it is probably possible to increase its transmitter range by changing its orientation. The same thought would also apply to the Smart Dongle which I believe is also directional by design. Mossey

We have a LPG line run all the way back to the curbside behind the bumper - we added a Quick Disconnect to it a few months ago. It's been coming in real handy when cooking at night under the awning because of the proximity to the rear LED light just above... ....YUM!

I would suggest that only 150 lbs (including the box) be added. Same weight that OTT recommends for bikes and bike racks on the back.

Better safe than sorry for sure. Definitely worth a check.

I use the Mopeka. So far so good. With automatic tank switchover it’s nice to know what’s left in the tank.

Thank you sir! Full speed ahead!

Check your tanks! https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2024/EVAS-20-lb-Propane-Exchange-Tanks-Recalled-by-Worthington-Enterprises-Due-to-Fire-Hazard

I would be happy to oblige, but I parked the trailer in storage this morning and then drove home about 600 miles away. I’ll try to remember to get pics when I go get it in a few months. I recall I cut one hole (used 2” holesaw) in the same spot on aft wall where a battery cable had been routed through but now unused, while doing my Battleborn battery install. The other 2” hole is on the forward wall, down lower I think. I also cut several other 2” holes in bulkheads throughout the basement on street side and rear compartments to facilitate convective flow. I’m still brainstorming future plans to introduce warm cabin air to basement in extreme cold, which might include small, quiet 12v blower fans. We camped several nights this winter out West in low teens with no freezing problems or battery issues. Last night in mountains it was 24. So I’m wondering if I need to worry much about additional mods, as I’m not really planning on camping any colder than that.

Doesn't really sound particularly dangerous: "The potential defect we identified is part of the propane tank/cylinder valve assembly that could result in a leak after disconnection from the grill- but only if you forget to close the barbeque tank/cylinder valve." (Emphasis mine.) I always make sure a tank is off before disconnecting the hose.

And, they're apparently only a hazard of left "on" after use. So, if you turn your tank off in storage,as most prudent folks do, no panic run to the snowy storage unit necessary.

This link provides a better description, and better photo of what to look for. Highly unlikely anyone in our group is affected, with such limited numbers, but definitely worth a quick check. Recall involves 490 tanks, manufactured within specific dates. https://www.amerigas.com/recall

AMEN!!!!!! Got my vote for a mold mod. Hopefully it does not cost over a million dollars! 🙂

I would love to see pic's of that. One low and one high would facilitate natural convection. GJ

Using the "Any Victron device that has the word "Smart" in it's name has Bluetooth connectivity" may open up another option. Can we combine my having the Victron 712 Smart Shunt in the battery box and your "Higher is better than closer" concepts? What if I connect the dongle to the shunt and run its five feet of cable up to the upper cabinets of the street side. Then extend the dongle forward until I run out of cable. At that location, stick the dongle to the ceiling of the cabinet. Much higher than under the dinette location, and not much further back. Your thoughts? GJ

I'm thinking two of the smaller 300s when they run another Black Friday sale. Two sitting sideways will fit nicely with enough room left over to mount a DC-to-DC charger on the wall behind them, huh. It will be a great Christmas gift for us and the Oliver!

We had a propane (LP) issue on our last trip. We arrived at our third stop and I setup the outside camp, the blanket, chairs, grill and fire ring, etc. Then I decided to start the fire ring, since it was getting late, and it gets warmer after the stones heat up. The fire ring flame was half of its usual force. I hollered at Chris, who was inside getting things ready for dinner, to start a kitchen burner. This is something we do each time we open the LP tank valve, so that we know there will be gas to the furnace later. The kitchen burner was also at half strength. I was puzzled for a while, and eventually checked the rear LP connection. You know that idiotic design where you have to release to bumper, revealing the sewer hoses, to hook up (why not mounted like the front one, aimed curbside)? Turns out the rear shut-off on that port was half open and it was leaking out of the cable connection without a fitting in place. It's not supposed to do that! I moved the shutoff to 90 degrees, and it stopped leaking. It had moved likely from the sewer hose hitting it over bumpy roads. The fire ring and kitchen burner were now again at full pressure. This useless rear connection is also dangerous in another way. They run a copper/brass line without protection directly under the frame. This is somewhat OK in front of the trailer wheels, but not a good idea near and behind them. One of several reasons to have the LP off when towing. I will be removing this line soon, certainly before our next outing. We never have a need to connect at the rear and never pulling the bumper to do so! I have a 12 ft line to a T-connection for grill and fire ring and they each have lengthy lines. We can connect at front and position the grill as far as the rear bumper if we need to. I will post info and pics on removing the rear LP line, just past the furnace T, which btw is also behind the trailer wheels. I will cap the rear line and likely add some form of stone-guard or protection. More on this coming soon!

Conversing with a gif is a hobby of mine. Lol

x2 Mopeka!

I was going to run mine from the battery bay up to the pantry or somewhere, but then the Dongle worked fine just tied to the rear battery ground cable. I did not have to run it higher to receive from the TV and farther. If you need to run much farther, this kit allows you to make your own cables, any length for $8 plus the costs of wire: Amazon.com: 20 Sets Mini Micro Jst 2.0 Ph 4 Pin Connector Plug Male With 150mm Cable & Female : Electronics

@MAX Burner @jd1923 Did y'all have the rubber cap inserted? I did when mine leaked. Mossey

@Ronbrink not sure if this will help!

The picture was snipped from the Oliver Operations Mgr stating they had just finished loading out the first shipment to a dealership. This one: From his and your statements, and this video, it is apparent that the trailers likely were wrapped while on the truck bed. That has good and bad considerations. The good is a pretty picture of our beautiful OTT machine. One of the bads is pondering how much of a PITA it must have been to wrap these trailers with them on the truck bed hopefully using ladders and fall safety equipment. Maybe a smarter "consideration" would be to have the video show a shot of the the beautifully prepared OE2 being wrapped under cover at the factory. That's how the vast majority of shrink wrapping is done in the industry... not being done outside in an elevated position obviously working from ladders.... Or maybe ship them with a nice tight fitting cover instead of shrink wrap. Even better would be having the cover printed with huge letters "Oliver Travel Trailers. 🙂 GJ

Two Flat Tires On Your OE2 Steve as time permits, would you please consider splitting this topic off separately. I sort of highjacked JD's Tire Pressure Confusion thread with this topic. As a safety topic, it warrants all of us to consider the possibility as has been mentioned. Thanks, GJ. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I have consolidated the great inputs for the topic, and added several more as I ran the scenario several times in my brain. The attachment reflects what I, and many of you, believe to be a reasonable order of tasks to accomplish. It is not perfect, but certainly can be adjusted to fit your situation. I hope that it is never needed in your case, but I know it has already happened to more than a few. WORD OF CAUTION: Two Flat Tires On An OE2.docxItem 6 is hypothetical from my pea-brain. I have not tried it, but I do think that it will work as intended. Key question is how the EZ-Flex will impact the dunnage, specifically will it be needed on both axles? Hopefully one of our owners could mock it up while doing their bearing service. Maybe add pictures of their solution to this thread. I will not see my trailer until July, and certainly will do so then. But sooner than then would be a great service to our Community. Travel safely and enjoy life every day! GJ

Oliver=Durability

When I get to Talihina OK, I have 8 miles of 10%+ grade fire road to haul Ollie up Buffalo Mountain. The road is graded (sometimes) and I am dodging rocks and holes along much of it. But there are times that I must also use every tool I have (4WD, Low Range, Low Gear, Locker Rear axle, and deair my tires as well. Since at the bottom I have no idea what I'll be encountering going up, my airing up and down when in doubt is just a smart precaution. But like you, I probably have loaned the compressor to others far more times than I have used it. GJ

I m guessing that this used to be a reasonable recommendation before there were regulated loads and we still had incandescent lights. If the internal voltage was raised into what were closer to resistive loads, both the current and the power would go up. Not the usual case anymore, where we have mostly constant power loads.

Yes the Sol trailers are also sold by PrincessCraft RV. We looked at several models and did like them. Wouldn’t trade our Schooner though.

Lots of good ideas and thoughts on this. Thanks. Just for conversation I will be a devils advocate "lightly" regarding tire inflation for both the TV and Ollie. But allow me to digress for a brief moment. Awhile back on an automotive forum, doesn't really matter which one but might have been a Tundra forum, there was a somewhat heated discussion regarding a gentleman who had gone from standard P rated tires to LT tires on his truck and asked what PSI should they be run. Sensible question but one fellow ripped the guy up on side and down the other claiming he should be running his tires full bore tilt at 80 PSI or risk a blowout and kill everybody on the highway. The answer struck me as a bit extreme given the research I had done on the subject to this point. Effectively it is true running tires at 80 PSI will reduce less heat build up due to less flexing and perhaps increasing gas mileage along the way, but is this the only safety factor of the equation to be considered? I have my doubts. What about braking, handling, maneuvering especially if in an emergency situation. At 80 PSI on lighter vehicles such as half ton trucks or Olivers there will not be enough tread on the road (the way the engineers and manufacturers designed the tire to operate). The tire chalk test bears this out too. Cutting to the chase, imagine having to swerve out of the way because some reckless driver runs a red light in front of you. Cornering and braking will not be optimum with over inflated tires and it compounds exponentially if towing a trailer. I'm certainly no expert on the subject but believe much depends on the individual vehicles and trailers and tires. What I can add from personal experience on a trip this past Sept from MT to southern UT with new LT tires. Ran my TV at 50 PSI and Oliver at 45 PSI. Truck being a tad bit heavier and loaded in the back with gear and tongue weight of trailer. Kept a close eye on heat and tire pressure build up with the TST TPMS and both did fine and this was driving through some 100º heat in SLC late afternoon. Thankfully no emergency maneuvering on the trip to test my theory. And for sure don't go up the gravel road to Green River Lakes in the Wind River Range with 80 PSI on either of your rigs. 🤣

What a big difference! Sorry to hear they did not help you, when the CSR I got called the manufacturer for me and got replacement parts for me after I reported I had broken the u-bolt platform. I buy from Amazon when I'm thinking I might have to return the item. Returns elsewhere are more difficult. eTrailer you know the parts are legit, and they have videos and PDF manuals. Amazon not always legit parts and the worse search engine. Why can't they just return the search you entered?

I'm happy to hear you got good service from eTrailer. I ordered a new MaxxFan Deluxe from them a year or so ago simply because it was a few dollars cheaper than Amazon and had free shipping. When It came in and I installed it, there was a problem and it would not work. When I call eTrailer to see about an exchange, I was informed that it was now considered a warranty issue and I would have to contact and deal with MaxxAir myself as they did not do exchanges or returns on warrantied products. As The Who said in 1971, I ... 'Won't Get Fooled Again'

The salespeople need to know the product and engage.

@Tom and Doreen, that's basically what I suspected. Energy in a campground can't be magically created, only redistributed. Those with autotransformers will be able to use more during a low voltage event than those without, until the load exceeds the overall capacity of the grid.

Yep, if we press slightly on the black lead wire at the connection/solder point it causes the tank reading at the monitor to jump numbers. So this may be the culprit! We are going to monitor on our upcoming trip and may end up trying to put a daub of solder back on to "tighten" that connection, if possible.

LOL, I was thinking of someone covering their safety chains. Since we see too often see other trailers with their chains sparking on the pavement. But then we can't fix stupid.

Fantastic! I have plenty of cat pix, just no trailer yet! But I'm sure at least some of our felines would love an Ollie outfitted with scratching-post table leg. Thanks for the great idea... I'll be sure to get that on the list of early mods. And we'll have a cat pose on delivery day ;). Steve

I was like this too, but now I leave it in auto and just check the tank when I know one is getting low. Then I’ll pull it and have it filled. I have the optional 30 gallon tanks on mine.

I agree on the Truma upgrade. We are very pleased with both our 13.5 Truma Aventa and Truma on demand hot water heater for many reasons. I feel pretty certain based on what I learned while at Oliver Service last Oct that Truma products may eventually be standard equipment on both OlEll and likely the OLEl. I think Lithium and Solar will continue to be upgraded options. Time will tell. Patriot🇺🇸