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On the rear of our Dometic toilet - where the water connection is, there's an integrated washer/screen at the fitting (where the arrow is pointing below). This screen can get clogged and reduce the flow/pressure to the toilet. The same goes with most faucets. You can remove the screen at the faucet where the water comes out - clear it of debris, and your flow is usually restored.

Just for Giggles , do you have another water pump and accumulator you could switch onto the system. I have a water issue in one of my campers, changed out both of them and situation seemed to be resolved. Farthest sinks from pump were low pressure. The pump was just weak? I have even had new ones weak off the get go.

We had a similar issue with both our toilet (low flow) and the bathroom sink faucet (very low flow) last year. After clearing out each of the diffuser screens - the flow rate came back up to the same level as the kitchen sink. It appeared that there was an accumulation of calcification particles in the screens. Try removing the diffuser from the faucet and examining the screen to remove any debris. Easy fix, for us at least...

Also known as an aerator, when referring to faucets.

My water pressure in the bathroom is the same as the kitchen. John

I'm an old map guy too, but you cannot ever buy the thousands of USGS maps, in quadrangle detail available. I have hiking maps, trail maps marked with dispersed camping detail, and more. Not talking about driving down an Interstate or US highway. Check out this map we downloaded for your first ever Oliver camp last July. Do note, the roads with the '. . .' alongside the roads. These stand for roads that allow dispersed camping. There is NOT a printed map in the world that shows this detail except for some NFS maps. The blue dot was our camp and the next pic explains itself!

I got better flow everywhere in the Oliver when I switched from this to this https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/products/263a-lf-regulator-stainless?_pos=1&_sid=7382cb9a5&_ss=r

Slow speed on the cordless drill, holding straight, even constant pressure. Never had fancy drill bits in all my years, since every repair is a one-off (unless you run a woodshop). Go for it! ☺️

The key to the install of this stuff is to clean, clean, clean prior to even thinking about applying the gutter material. Bill p.s. and a nice warm day doesn't hurt either - 80 degrees plus

I wanted to reach out to everyone regarding this issue. We have been made aware of the issue and are currently investigating. At this time it appears to be a single incident but we will be continuing our investigation.

That's our thought. We've talked about it, many times. Over the past 16 seasons, how would one of the others fared? Rubber roofs, interior rot, leaks, etc. I'm good with what I own, 16 seasons in. It was expensive, yes. The longevity, yes. Problem free? What? A few. Nothing major. In it for the long run.

I didn't realize I was buying a palace when I got my LE2. Ok, I opted for the thicker mattresses and the roof mounted air conditioner (what? that's standard?). I also purchased the upgraded lithium battery option. However, with all of the options I put on it, it will never be as comfortable or as extravagant as: To me, luxury has a different meaning and something I wouldn't buy for any amount of money. I bought my Oliver because it is the best built, highest quality travel trailer that makes the absolute best use of space in the industry. Lux? No way.

Yup. For us, luxury is dry, warm, stuff that works. Easy tow. Easy entrance to campsites that sunblockers can't use. I never thought if our trailer as lux, til this conversation, but it truly is, for us. Loving my 2008.

Oliver has always been considered a luxury travel trailer, like a yacht or a sailboat, even in 2017 when I first started. Perhaps not in terms of having a jacuzzi but in other ways. Technology, Features, Quality, Etc.

I can't imagine what the first bath in 67 years must feel like - no wonder you like it.😂

I admit to being spoiled living in the Western USA with Federal Public Lands everywhere, it seems. Especially where we like to visit and camp. Settlers in the 19th Century needed lower elevations with water. Dry areas without available water, good soil or long Winters and short growing Seasons were not ideal homestead properties. Good for those of us who enjoy exploring, rock hunting, wild life exposure, fishing, hiking and just sitting outside with few others within eye sight. First and the BEST option: DeLorme Atlas of the State you would like to visit, or know more about a State you may want to go further into the Public Domain. BLM, National Forest, National Grasslands and all other possibilities at your flipping through the pages of an Atlas of choice. The year of the Atlas does not matter. Most of the roads off the paved roads have been there since the Oregon Trail, Logging and Mining. Ranchers dropping livestock off for Summer grazing. Fall Hunting Season is a big business for small western remote communities. The local Forest Service maintains the main unpaved roads and when money permits... the side roads and fence for grazing leases for cattle. I pulled out Arizona and scanned the important details. Also on the back of the Atlas, you find an area you may want to Explore... the map page number is at your finger tips. We carry those Atlases that we may be near or going to. You never know. Also mark the camping spots on the map, so we can return. On the return... we can then expand our travel on the, often, very good Forest Service roads. The Oliver has high clearance and 16 inch tires. If your Tow Vehicle had 2wd you may be limited on... some... but not many side roads. If you have 4x4 there is almost unlimited options in some areas. Arizona has lots of people living in the Forests... and I just pulled it out as it was handy. But... there are places in the mountains, but expect lots of locals on the weekends and holidays. What questions do you have? Someone may be able to help you. What about the Midwest and Eastern States? Any advice as to general references. Saddle up your Oliver Elite and hitch your multiple Horse Power Tow Vehicle and get with it.

Same here for us, Mike. AGMs served us just fine with our previous TT - however, for us at least, the Lithiums have been a game changer. For example, we just returned from a short 3-nighter to Columbus, NM. We started each afternoon with 100% SOC on the BBs (200w portable solar module tucked away in the TV). Standard boon-docking afternoon/evening drill for us is fridge operating in gas mode, inverter OFF, dinner off the gas grill, cocktail lamp - "LIT", furnace OFF, Starlink up and an after-dinner "Shoot 'em Up" movie (neither one of us makes it to the end before crashing-out)... The three nights averaged an 11% drop in SOC by morning. The OTT 340watt solar module roof mount (during MAR sun angles near the US/Mexico border) brought the SOC back up to 100% by 3pm-ish. FYI: DAY-2 was overcast, but we still had 100%SOC before we lit the cocktail lamp - we're love'n this system! Cheers, ALL!

We drilled smaller diameter pilot holes, as we always do. You can try the blue tape thing, I guess, though we've never done it. Pilot, followed by bigger hole. If you use butyl, all the holes will self seal. (We sealed old holes with epoxy) I know it's intimidating at first. But, it's not that bad. I'd guess total install time was two hours, or less. One on roof, one inside. We did "build up" a bit with butyl tape, if I remember correctly, for the slight incline, front to back of the hull.. Love the light. Also, make sure you read instructions for drainage hole placement.

Not a very warm winter here, but better than some regions. No snow, anyway! 😅

HA! It hasn't changed much - they actually sell rattle cans at the CR for like 10 bucks now!

There are some lovely camping spots in the panhandle north of Tallahassee. Enjoy the warmth of Florida!

Measure twice, drill once. 😁

GJ, Mike and many others, have better batteries than we! 450 AH of lead acid here. I read here that two 300AH Epoch batteries fit, which is totally amazing! By the time we upgrade, 2025, 2026, I'm hoping some manufacturer can stuff 800AH into the bay size holding four 6V golf cart batteries!

So true. We love our Benchmark Atlases for travel out west, with BLM and USFS areas highlighted with dispersed campgrounds.

Trust me, you don't want to get trapped with us down that rabbit hole. For details you can spend a week reading the 20 mile long posts on this subject. Bottom line is no. GJ Chief Rabbit Hole Inspector

Ken and I both have 3 BB’s. There’s no room for 4 and three gives plenty of capability. Mike

I have three and would be hard pressed to figure out how you got four of them in there unless yours are the ones mounted sideways with buss bars utilizing great care and extremely brilliant craftsman skills. For the normal DYI owner, three 100 amp BB's seems the limit. GJ

Thanks Bill. I really suggest that OTT consider upgrading the bathroom vanity area as MaxBurner documented last year. With a little bit of engineering, the cabinet space could be provided without much cost and with great benefit to future owners! Art: Would be worth sending in your Mod info to OTT in the form of a Service Ticket. That way it for sure will be discussed and consided by their Leadership Team. I'll be packing a door this summer! 🙂 GJ

The shape of the door has not changed - it must be whatever a "parallax" is 😁. And, the lines are still not insulated at Oliver. A number of owners (to include the provider of the pic) have insulated their lines like this. Bill

Decalcification of your entire system should be done typically every four years. The hot water side will typically calcify faster than the cold. Is there a flow difference between your hot water flow vs. cold water flow to the bathroom? GJ

This is on my to-do list.

@Jason Fosterthanks for the link, I will try that. @RonbrinkI did that but have no frame of reference if the flow was good or not but I guess if the pump stays on constantly and doesn't surg that might tell me if the faucet/shower head is the problem. If it is that won't explain why the water flow to the toilet is low, but one thing at a time. Thanks!

To @Jason Foster’s point, simply remove the faucet/shower head from the pullout hose at the sink and check the flow at the unobstructed hose end. This may help to determine if a clogged head is the problem.

Us, too. 40+ year old fiberglass boat. Built the house to 100+ year standards. We won't be around to see that, but, hey, maybe our daughter will enjoy it. My truck is 18 years young. Love it, every day.

I like donuts, but donut don't like me.

This sentence describes me to the core in everything I do.

Let's assume there is not a kink since that would likely be the worst outcome and would have been observed by the prior owner as well as OTT. The next thing I would look at is more clogs. These systems are great when they are kept up, but left in storage, mold and algae grow in the water lines and tanks as well as accumulated dirt and grime. It looks like you cleaned some of the lines and the faucets, but I would skip that and disconnect the service line where it feeds the bathroom and with bucket or large cup in hand, or a clamped hose end to extend the line outside, turn on the water pump to see if you get a marked improvement.

The last address I have for CGI and the place where they did my ceramic coating is: 1639 Richland Richardson Road, Murfreesboro, TN and the GPS coordinates for the property are : 35.85165, -86.28862 But, note that this exact GPS location is for the RV that is sitting on the property and it is located 75 yards or so to the west of the frontage road. On Google Maps the current satellite image does not show the building that is used for the majority of the work done during the coating - that building is now located to the west of the RV in what appears (on Google Maps) to be a plowed field. Again, make sure that this is the current location/address that the guys are using. Bill

Based on that definition, I would say that our Oliver is a luxury, but isn't luxurious. And that's what we wanted.

That is one amazing motorhome! Here is the full definition.

Make sure that you get SPECIFIC instruction as to the location. They are not very far out of the center of Murfreesboro but they are on a rural road and it is fairly easy to miss the "entrance" into the property. A good look at Google maps with the Satellite view will help. Tell the guys "hi" for me and see ya at the Rally! Bill

Luxury is in the eye of the beholder! 😉

6’2” + ollie2 wet bath is NOT luxury. still the best product on the market despite that 😀

We were going to, but it would have put us over our GVWR with our golf cart in the rear garage.

Even better news- The updated weather forecast for you looks like the wet weather originally forecast will sag a bit further to the south. This should mean that the rain will not effect you. Hope this holds and you have a safe trip. Bill

WoW, thank you for this incredibly thorough explanation and photos of your trouble and solution for the Norcold refrigerator. Very helpful!

I understand the frustration. You don’t need to be a technical expert, I’m certainly not. But, a basic understanding of all the systems in your trailer and how they work is important. You need to know where the fuse box is and what all is in it, where the big circuit breakers are under the seat and bed (where mine are) and how to know if they are tripped and how to reset. What the readouts on your solar controller mean. Where the microwave is plugged in, where your black tank and gray tank valves are located, where the water pump is and how it is wired, how to manually raise/lower your jacks, etc. I say all these things because I have had to address them in my own trailer over the years. Knowledge will come over time, you pick up nuggets of info slowly just by asking questions and getting help from other owners and from Oliver Service. Mike

That little generator will easily fit in the back of your truck bed, along with a GOOD gas can.. (A dual fuel model can be connected to your trailer propane system.) You don’t need to store it outside in the weather and filth. I assume that you have some sort of cover for the bed. Keep it near the back, slide it out into the tailgate to operate it, or just set it on the ground and loop a bike cable lock around the trailer frame. The little 1000 watt suitcase units are great for battery charging but they won’t multi-task at all. Or operate the air conditioning😥 For much easier access to everything in the truck, add a bed slide (loooong drawer with roller bearing slides). John Davies Spokane WA

I believe this is the auxiliary drain kit that includes the small pans, one of which is shown in the picture in my previous post. The tee shown in your second picture is the tee in the picture below. The tube that eventually exits at the rear street side corner is attached to this tee. https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-auxiliary-drain-pan-kit.html

Alberta and Randy, In our 2019 Elite II, the condensate tube runs directly back to the back wall of the trailer and down a few inches to the street side of the rear window. to the spot is exits the trailer. As I an idea on how to clear out the tube, I would remove the tube form the tee you are showing and blow compressed air down the tube that runs toward the back of the trailer. Another idea would be to use a turkey baster with hot soapy water and shoot it down the tube. Hope that helps, Andrew