Leaderboard

Summary: make sure your accumulator is not rubbing against the bottom of the curb side bunk. Check the cutouts above the rear jacks. Check the duct under the curb side bunk. I noticed black dust on the board that the water pump and accumulator are mounted to. Turns out that the pump, piping, accumulator, valve, etc. assembly doesn’t really fit together well but it is screwed to the board anyway. The misalignment between the pump and accumulator caused the rubber bushing in the mount on one side of the accumulator to become dislocated and the accumulator rubbed against the bottom surface of the curb side bunk. I caught it before it wore through. I also noticed that both cutouts to access the studs to manually operate the rear jacks don't line up with the studs and would have made it hard to manually operate the jacks. I’ll enlarge these later. Also the 2 bolts on the rear curb side jack could rub through the heater duct.

There is an owner on the Oliver FB that received an order from SDG, but no report yet on the install. The Atmos 4.4 is a 15K unit, and there are claims that it is much quieter and more energy efficient than the standard Penguin ll Oliver currently installs. I have talked to the company owner and following reports by a couple of SOB owners. Although preliminary reports are promising, there have been some discrepancies in the marketing of these units; specifically, (1) a claim that soft start was built into the unit, but found not to be the case and (2) it has an inverter compressor. The heat pump is a good feature, as well as the dehumidifier which may operate separate from cooling. I have read where the Atmos 4.4 is same as the Gree A/C with the only difference in type of refrigerant. I will pass on further information as made available.

Another option might be to simply drill four new holes in places that allow you to use the existing plate and move it up the amount needed and still have round holes instead of slots. That way there would be no chance of the mount being able to slip back down.

I agree in being against custom fiberglass work, and with Truma you must purchase and install through their dealers only, no DIY units or replacement parts available in the aftermarket. Re Houghton, it appears the relay install is quite simple, instructions on this forum. It could be easily reversed if you had to return the AC unit for warranty replacement. I would work this wiring on the workbench and then install. Being careful, perhaps an hour of work. We have little in humidity concerns out west, but I would install the relay just so most of the night when the temps drop considerably in the mountains the fan stays OFF! My main goal is hush... being very quiet... I have not heard another product recommendation in this regard. Still wondering if their 9.8K BTU is feasible on an Elite II. They say it covers 400 SF which is double the E2 footprint. It is much cheaper, especially without the heat pump and we'll just run the furnace when heat is needed. The smaller unit would also pull less amps on the batteries and would be easier on a 2KW inverter.

Voila! Immediately went up to 31 amps at idle then settled down at around 14 amp. Voltage output went up from 13.5 to 13.9 as set. @Ronbrink Thanks again. About to head out on the road to do a test run to see how well I can monitor it remotely.

Running a dedicated 4 AWG ground wire directly from the TV’s battery to the rear bumper Anderson port, then continue the run of same size cable directly to the DC-DC would likely solve your problem.

@rideandfly Bill, I noticed you updated your signature, well done sir! Bill & Debbie / 2015 LE2 #75 / 2024 F-150 5.0L / North Carolina Welcome to the Ford Family, and congratulations to you and Debbie on your new TV.

Agree, after doing the modification started seeing other/better ways to do this modification. I took care tightening nuts so not to put too much stress on the sandwiched fiberglass and that could allow slippage with slots. The housing will hold the tire up, but I did not want the full tire's weight resting on just the fiberglass cover. Guessing folks with the 215/70R/16 spare may not need to move the tire mount, but if someone has a 225/75R/15, would try it first before buying a new spare. I'm in North Carolina and would be glad to test my spare on anyone's Ollie to see if it will fit without modifications.

@SeaDawg, that’s exactly what I needed. Thanks! And, @jd1923, you’re helping it all sound very doable, now. Thanks!

Been looking to replace our 14yo 9.2k Coleman with a new unit, not because it isn't working well, but because of it's age and we don't want to be left without AC or have to have it replaced while traveling. Was thinking about purchasing the Houghton 9.5k since it was also available with a heatpump but was a little apprehensive because of the always on fan issue and the need to mod the unit to shut the fan down when the compressor shuts off to keep humidity down. Thought maybe because of the low 9.5k rating it would run longer and might not have the same humidity issues as the Houghton larger units so I decided to do a test using my Coleman in both the auto mode that it has which shuts down the fan when the compressor is off, as well as the always on low fan setting which I figured should emulate the Houghton 9.5k performance fairly well. Decided to test under the worst conditions to control humidity, conditions that are very common in the areas we camp- temps in the 70's at night with high humidity. The results were pretty shocking to me. As you can see in the pic, even with our smaller 9.2k Coleman the humidity shot up almost instantly when the fan was set to low/always on. Didn't expect this drastic of a rise so quickly and now I'm back to not knowing which direction to go... Not interested in modding a brand new Houghton, and also, not interested in a Truma since I don't want to have to have the custom fiberglass work done to accommodate it, nor do I even know how it performs under these same conditions. Has anyone here installed the Atmos 4.4 yet and used it similar conditions? Looks promising since it has a de-humidification / sleep mode, but it looks like it also operates with the fan always on too. Might just have to replace with a new Coleman Mach 8 Cub Plus since it has an auto fan mode and it can use our existing thermostat though I don't know how quiet that unit is. No heatpump either, though it does have a heat strip option.. The search continues...

I love my wife Chris, and as each year goes by it becomes ever more so apparent! We purchased our Oliver just days short of a year ago and we love being together in our travels, no matter where we camp for the night, good or bad. I share this thought today with my virtual Oliver family. I do my things and she does hers and the best things are the times we spend together. She often asks, “How’s the blog going?” She’s referring to this forum and she is always interested. I tell her stories regarding y’alls antics, often over a drink or two before dinner. She listens and smiles, what a smile. Today is a very special day for us, as it is our 30th wedding anniversary! I have a difficult job every year from June 1st to June 7th. Her birthday being the latter date. Last year, as you can see, it was easy as can be, as to her surprise I brought home an Oliver! 😊 What in the world can I do this year! Good thing we do not need to top the great times we’ve had and will always have together. I write this for my partner in life. Love you, Chrissy.

Understood, but everything is bigger in Texas, including the heat and humidity! Waiting to hear from current installers about unit size in a few Sprinter Class B motorhomes, which appear to have comparable interior space as an Oliver, as well as other performance measures.

The BMS can limit, but note your MPPT solar charger is offering 33A, that's 48A total if I'm reading this right. 150A on the truck alternator is good number given it is in good condition, many are rated lower. Try running your test again, with your batteries needing charge (<80% SOC) and your MPPT solar charger turned off. This will show what the Tundra alternator and DC-to-DC is capable.

In my expedience, 9.2k has been more than enough. Haven't been at a high altitude or in temps much over 100 degrees with our LE2 yet but I don't see how it wouldn't be enough. If not, either the BTU's are overrated or the LE2 isn't as insulated as we think it is. A 13.5k or 15k unit might cool the inside down faster but they're certainly overkill under the typical conditions we camp under.

I figured the dehumidifier mode was just a low cool mode. Totally fine with that as long as it can hold a temp in the low 70's with low humidity under the same conditions I tested in. I have my doubts now if the fan is always running but if the system has a way of throttling down the BTU's in that mode, then maybe?

I went back and read where the aforementioned FB owner understood the dehumidifier to function only in Low cool mode per his conversation with SDG. I reached out to him for an update on his purchase and pending install. Also read where SDG is testing soft start type devices on the Atmos 4.4, and independent others claim the new Micro-Air ‘Breeze’ is actually a better choice over the SoftStart brand. I will follow this closely, but my thought of reinstalling my Micro-Air 364 currently on my Penguin ll was nicked due to issues of memory and rebooting; however, not a problem reusing SoftStart devices on the Atmos. Later

That makes sense. I will give it a try!

@SNY SD UP, take heed to these words of wisdom; oftentimes cost saving measures are our demise! Safe travels!

This video should make those of us who joined the Oliver family feel pretty good about our choice.

The Renogy solar suit cases are ideal for our use, especially if we don't have onboard solar. You may want to find a store or another ollie that has them. You'll immediately get the picture I was painting. If they did not have the smaller 100 watt ones, I would buy my 200 again. But for sure would prefer the smaller foot print with the 100's.

I used the OEM Zamp panels (90 watts each) to make it easy due to the SAE (reverse polarity) connection. There is an empty SAE connection at the junction box under the main panels, so super simple to add. I think I used a SAE Y-combiner to connect the 2 panels (I would have to look). I got the mounts from Amsolar.com. But you are right there is lots of lightweight, flexible options these days. I have thought about changing the whole solar array but due to lack of flat real estate on the roof I have decided to keep what I have. So if you want to keep it simple and plug and play, I would still just go with the Zamp panels.

@Townesw it's strange how from hull #113 to #313 there is such a difference! The crank on my rear stabilizer jacks (both sides) are 2-3" from the edge.

@GlacierGirl, looks like you are "bolded" now. Requires a certain number of posts. Guess you've made it. If you mean, @then a name, just type the @symbol, then start typing the name of the person you want to notify. Click on it. It will fill in the rest.

Dave and Kimberly -- here's a long shot, but ... I sometimes leave the trailer hooked up to shore power but set the "ignition charge control" on the inverter to "auto-off." This allows use of 120V appliances without a constant charge to the batteries. Furthermore, I sometimes also turn off the solar to allow the batteries to drift to a lower SOC (for the health of the batteries). I've noticed the Xantrex charger/inverter draws electricity when simply connected to shore power. Thus, if you have shore power connected but everything else turned off (including solar), the inverter/converter could be drawing enough to contribute to a 3% SOC drop per day.

I wonder how this recall will impact the fair market resale or trade in value of repaired/recalled trucks? Who would purchase a previously recalled used truck? Personally I would pass. The recall history and engine replacement or rebuild will be a permanent VIN record with Toyota. Toyota has a massive undertaking is an understatement not only in addressing this the recall, but from a PR and future buyers trust point of view. I have previously owned (3) Tundras and was very happy with all three trucks. It’s sad that the Toyota brand is taking such a hit. My hopes are Toyota steps up and does the right thing, it would certainly be in their best interest.

YES! Ditto. GJ

No the Road Trip will work off the quick connect. The regulator for the Road Trip is a removable. You can buy an adapter hose on Amazon with a connector that screws into the same fitting as the regulator used for the 1 lb green bottles. No need to by pass the trailer regulator. Weber, Blackstone, and others will work. There are kits where you remove the grill's regulator so it will work off the quick connect. They are all low pressure. The issue is with high pressure devices like Coleman and other camp stoves. Even if you remove the regulator they will not run at proper temperatures. For those you do have to by pass the trailer regulator. Some solutions is carry a spare tank. Or they make Y connects you can use on one of the trailer tanks. Hope this helps

I’m not sure what your normal usage cycle looks like. However, there is a good chance your other three batteries are not in ideal condition. In this type of setup most of your charging/usage current will come from your new battery. To keep this new battery healthy you should probably keep your reserve capacity usage to 30 ish amps, any more than that and you will be pushing the new battery. To keep the new battery (IMO interstate batteries are quality) from self distrusting on your trip I would check the water level half way through the trip (disconnect negative cable for a while before you open the caps). You will be cooking your new battery and it’s imperative the water is replenished. I would leave the Zamp controller in AGM mode even though you have wet cell batteries. I’m afraid the failing batteries might trick the controller into an equalize mode. I would limit the usage of your inverter for high current appliances. I would disable your on board battery charger and rely on the Zamp. Edit: Having said all that if I was leaving on a long trip I’d drive to Costco or similar and buy an identical interstate battery and ditch the three brightway units. That along with limited inverter usage would give you a worry free setup for minimal investment.

For Lead Acid or AGM's yes. But when discussing Litho's, the Amps in vs. Amps out is the standard. Now, when you have a super small charge rate and draws, not even a SOC system (Such as Victron 712's and better) can keep up with the drift. So at the end of the storage period, a full on "fill up" is required with additional charging time for equalization. That should reset the clock so to speak. GJ

The bigger question is: how well will one new lead acid battery play with three older batteries? Usually, the battery bank will only charge to the level of oldest/weakest battery. What happened to the 4th that you had to replace it?. How old are the other three?

Toyota has not been replacing engines - they have been replacing short blocks only. That requires the service techs at dealers to rebuild the engine using a lot of the “used” components - heads, etc. Some owners are now on their third engines. Others have gone the lemon law route, which is what I would do since I wouldn’t trust a dealer tech to have the skills and equipment to rebuild an engine vs. full replacement. Certainly they don’t have the clean room that might exist at the manufacturing facility. Hard to accept the “debris” excuse, as I believe the LX engines might be made in Japan, versus the Tundra and Sequoia engines being made domestically - unless exact same processes are being used in both engine plants. Anyone heard differently? This is going to be costly, both in money and in reputation, for Toyota. I’m glad I didn’t make the leap to the new generation Tundra, Sequoia or LX.

Maiden voyage with Starlink went great. SO nice to have a fast internet connection remotely. Magnetic feet on metal VHB'd discs worked flawlessly at 70mph in windy conditions. Didn't move a bit, despite being out front with no wind buffering.

We are currently on the road to the Maine Rally. I will be there in a few days and will get some pictures when we set up there.

So far, the hottest we've camped in is 101 with 90% humidity in full sun. There's got to be a breaking point, and I hope to never be camping somewhere to find it!

This is what is required to replace the engine on a Tundra. I sure would not want this done to my brand new truck.