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That closet is a valuable space for us. I bet in 4 years, we have only used our shower 1-2, just using the campground showers.

I hate to admit it now - but - I was one of those that thought I could not live without a dry bath. During fairly early discussions with Anita (Oliver Sales) I told her of my concern in this regard. Without missing a beat, she explained to me the relative value of the real estate (i.e. square footage) of the dry bath versus the wet bath. Indeed, Oliver could convert the closet into a dry bath, but what is the value of that closet versus the relatively small amount of time that one actually spends in the bath every day, she said. Having an undergraduate degree in economics this spoke straight to my understanding of the "economics" of the situation and the rest is history. And, as with most things, Anita was right - at least for me. Bill

We loved our Casita but I could never go back to the rat fur on the walls. Looking at the layout of the Casita 24 made me wonder if I would trade the closet in the Oliver for the dry bath layout in the new Casita. For me it's an easy no. But I often hear the wet bath in the Oliver is a non starter for some folks.

Casita did a pretty good job with this new trailer. Tank sizes, especially black tank, dry bath and large fridge are all good selling points. At about half the price of an Oliver this is going to provide some competition. I hope Oliver is working on their next trailer! Mike

Good for them. Each manufacturer has a different market. I'd decline, just as we declined on the smaller Casita, 17 years ago. To me, a separate shower is a waste of valuable space in a small trailer. But, for others, it isn't. The hard part for me is the cabinetry, and carpeted walls.

OR instead of getting all that hardware, you could invest a few hours and get you some of these: ; ; ; ; ; wait for it......; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; Gotcha! I was forwarned by a very wise Sea Dog (I believe) in 2018 that some day I would get older and wished I had got my Ollie with 20 # tanks. I did on both topics. GJ

Once I had to get out a drill and make a hole so I could get the plut into the leak. Wasted an hour trying to do so before the light bulb came on. I also have had leaks in the main tread area that took three plugs to slow them down. Even with three, it still leaked, but slow enough that I could get off the mountain by re-airing up twice. Good idea to have an air compressor of some sort! GJ

From a M.E. perspective the smaller unit was intended to run longer than the 13.5 units thereby better controlling humidity and pulling less power. A good thing. But it gives up high temperature condition performace (ability to reach set point) and cool down time as trade offs... as you well know. Pretty much of that logic line goes out the window with the advent of the Inverter units. They can cycle output down/up as needed for all applications under those for which they are not undersized. They control both humidity and temperature to set point. Brilliant! I suspect that OTT will be going that direction once there is a bit more experience with them and the reliability issues, good and bad, shake out. That's part of their good conservative approact to significant changes I think. As the inverter refergerator topic continues to matue, I'll be looking at the owner opinions in a couple more seasons as my Dometic 3-way ages and my confidence in the air separation from the cabin and the refer side deteriorates. Likewise with the inverter A/C units. Wish the Houghton was an inverter, but it's not. Lucky that I and others were able to do the two Mods. So I'll likely hold off an A/C upgrade to let this topic mature. Especially if the Ceilo would work well on it! I appreciate all the Owner inputs about the Cielo system and their experiences using it. GJ

I will give Casita a little credit. They are certainly taking “little bites” out of the fiber glass travel trailer market for folks who just cannot justify 90-100k for an Oliver. Smart forward thinking with their R&D folks with a larger/longer camper and dry bath to boot. And oh gee, how interesting? Casita must be listening to their customers! 🤔 Might be just me, But I bet they sell quite a few baskets of those eggs! 😄 https://casitatraveltrailers.com/lc/

And - what's "wrong" with "rat fur"? Back in the day when I was first looking at molded fiberglass, I took a look at a Casita. I was fairly impressed with the "oak" cabinet doors until I looked a bit more closely and saw that they were actually "press board" with a decal oak cover. Then I looked at the rat fur, then I looked at the frame, then I looked at the "holes" in the shell that were used to secure the "furniture inside, then I took a look at .....

After 8 years of use it was time to retire the Dometic air conditioner. I have looked at several brands and for one reason or another I decided on the Tosot brand which is the same as the Atmos brand and probably others as well. Since last summer the Dometic has been making fan bearing noises off and on and I’ve grown tired of climbing on the roof to oil the motor. After eight years I really didn’t want to replace the motor only to have something else fail so this was an excellent excuse to replace it with a higher efficiency quiet unit. We’ve been traveling out west for the past three and a half months and were passing “close” to Elkhart Indiana so decided to drop in and visit the SDG folks. The entire replacement process was perfectly coordinated and our installer Joe knew exactly what needed to be done. We’ve camped out in their parking lot the night before with 30 amp shore power available. The next morning at 8:00 AM I backed our trailer into their shop and about two hours later the job was done. They even printed a custom cover plate to cover up the holes from the old Dometic thermostat. We were able to sleep through the night with the air conditioner running for the first time in 8 years without having to use earplugs, and to watch television at half volume instead of full volume! The air registers force air towards the front of the trailer instead of most all of the cold air being forced onto the bed area. We’re parked in central Ohio for a few days and it’s very hot and humid but the air conditioner is keeping the Oliver very dry and comfortable. On low fan the unit draws about 9 ac amps. Running from the inverter the inverter draws 94 dc amps. The Dometic on inverter would draw between 130 - 140 dc amps under similar conditions. We are extremely pleased with the work that SDG provided and with the comfort and efficiency of the Tosot unit. I strongly recommend the folks at SDG for the air conditioner replacement. They have done several Oliver air conditioner replacements and have experience in replacing/installing air conditioners on many different rv types.

In case you missed it. Bill https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1-Il-AaOC4

Attached is Lithionics' most recent (to my knowledge) battery storage protocol. Note that if your batteries are "subject to winter conditions", Lithionics recommends that you either leave them connected to shore power (so the internal heaters can protect them), or remove them and store them "above freezing". Leaving shore power connected avoids the need for shutdown. For what it's worth, during our very cold winters in central Idaho, we leave our Elite II connected to shore power, but do a charge-discharge cycle after 6 months of storage. Lithionics Storage Procedure Rev.7-1.pdf

Pretty damn close in 2025

I may remember a post about an interesting retirement job🤔 Mossey

When ‘inquiring minds want to know’, ask AI! My question: Will the Starlink Mini support use of two laptops streaming TV content? AI response: Yes, the Starlink Mini can support two laptops streaming TV content simultaneously, and often even more devices. The built-in Wi-Fi router is designed to handle up to 128 devices, and real-world tests show it works well for multiple streaming sessions. The main factor influencing performance will be the available bandwidth at your specific location and time of use, as speeds can vary. Performance and Considerations Speed: The Starlink Mini typically delivers download speeds over 100 Mbps, and users have reported speeds over 200 Mbps in optimal conditions. This is more than enough bandwidth for two simultaneous high-definition streams. Reliability: While generally reliable, speeds may temporarily decrease during peak network times or due to minor obstructions, which could cause a brief glitch in a stream. However, in most scenarios, users report no issues with multiple concurrent streams. Data Usage: Be mindful of your data plan. The Roam 50GB plan has a data cap, and streaming TV content consumes a significant amount of data. The Unlimited plan may be more suitable for frequent, heavy streaming use. Built-in Router: The Mini has an integrated Wi-Fi 5 router, which is sufficient for a campsite or small area. If you plan to be further away or want maximum performance, some users suggest adding an external hardwired router.

For those with an older technology (Not Inverter) I seem to have understood that the Cielo would just shut down the power to the unit in the mode when humidity "give back" from the Evaporor Coil is an issue. But if you have more recent design (Inverter A/C), the Cielo independently controls the (Inverter (Compressor Speed), Condensor Fan, and the Supply Air Fans) to meet what ever humidity and temperature settings are needed. Is the above done by the same model of Cielo or different ones? How does it do so for both types of unit when they all likely have different mother boards? Almost sounds too good to be real. But so many of us really like what it does it must be magic! GJ

A farm back-hoe bucket worked best for our Houghton install. Also, the Dometic if still running will generally fetches $500 to $600 on Craigs List. So don't do what one fellow did that HATED his DOMETIC P2: Tossed it over the side. Which likely is not legal due to the refergerant rules. GJ

In similar fashion, I can't do the wood or carpeted interior because of all the glues (formaldehyde) and my severe allergies. My allergies began with exposure to formaldehyde! And while that large refrigerator looks nice, I sure would miss my pantry in my E2.

A strong move by Casita. I would still chose my E2 again over the larger Casita (for many reasons). if their specs are accurate, I predict many suspension issues. After adding options like A/C, cooktop, electric jack, larger capacity batteries, awning, furnace plus full propane and water tanks there will not be much buffer left for furnishings, food and personal items before going over capacity, especially if camping as a Family as it is marketed. Dry Weight: 4,250lbs (Before Options) GVWR 6,000lbs I hope to see one at the fiberglas rally in Quartzsite this Winter.

Good point, and it’s even harder pushing the plug in as far as recommended. I ended up using liquid dish soap to lubricate, did the trick! Some kits come with either a lubricant or a sealant, which serves as the lubricant.

So true. The former are solid plastic and better suited for the passenger tires on the SUV. The new tools are solid aluminum and a much better fit for the intended purpose. Definitely shy away from the cheap plastic ones that can’t withstand the excessive forces needed for our trailer tires!

Thanks! But I might have some involvement with it being there😉

@Snackchaser Great catch, spotting the Ollie in the ghost town! And the rest of the video is quite interesting. Mossey

Oliver spotted in a Polaris Off Road video! The Oliver can be seen briefly in several scenes of the video about Cerro Gordo Ghost Town and historic silver mine.

Rather or not you are plugged in is the primary question. See their manual. https://cdn2.olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/30122505/Lithionics-Batteries-Storage-Procedure.pdf “1. If your battery has the Lithionics Internal Heater, and you are subject to winter conditions, keep the battery ON, solar ON and plugged into shore power. Shut down all appliances, lights, and other DC loads. You may purchase a very small charger from Lithionics Battery (KF Series) and power this from an extension cord if shore power is not available. This will keep the heater running and protect your battery. Doing this will eliminate the procedures below.”

Thanks for this! I’d really limited my use of the hot water on our Oliver because the system is so poorly designed. I suppose it’s fine if you’re hooked up to city water - and a sewer connection - but for other situations it’s pretty terrible. I don’t know if I’d go through the trouble of the timers or temperature sensors, but knowing that somebody has done this is reassuring. It’s bad enough when someone designs or builds a home with the water heater long distances from the points of use, but in an RV with limited tankage, it’s really ridiculous.

Since purchase of my OTT last year, I had been thinking of installing a MicroAir EasyStart on my Truma A/C. However, I wasn’t sure if it would allow my Truma A/C to run off my Champion 2000W generator, especially since I run it on propane and often camp at elevation. Fortunately for me I met @mossemi at the Oliver Rally last May and it turns out that he has the same generator and like me, runs it on propane. He told me that with the EasyStart, his A/C ran fine off his generator even at elevation. Thanks to Mike for that info. So now you can imagine my excitement when they announced that there were going to be ten EasyStarts given away at the Rally! But alas, I was not one of the winners. However, I met a nice couple from Oklahoma who did win one. And as luck would have it, they had decided not to use it, so they graciously gave it to me! Although I made several attempts, they refused any compensation. So I owe them a big thanks. Below are the details of my installation. First, thanks to @Patriot for previously posting this video: SoftStart Install on Truma A/C I found it to be very helpful for understanding how to remove the A/C covers, where to mount the EasyStart, how to run the wiring, how to get access to the control board and for making connections to the capacitor. However, DO NOT follow the detailed wiring instructions because the video is for a SoftStart not an EasyStart. Next, a couple of thoughts on safety. After I removed the A/C cover I found an old mud dauber’s nest. Fortunately it was not inhabited at the time. But they seem to like that area, so beware. Second, the video doesn’t mention it but you should make sure that the capacitor has been discharged before working around it. Since I’m not a qualified electrician, I won’t comment any further. Finally, I used my 17’ Werner ladder to get access to the roof. The optional Werner platform made this much easier. Also, accessing the roof from the curb side felt safer since the awning acts as a short railing. I used a sheet of rubber tool box liner and a piece of interlocking foam utility mat to protect the fiberglass and provide slip protection. With those additions, I felt safe enough to work in my stocking feet. As shown in the video, the white cover can be taken off by removing the eight screws (covered with lap sealant) with a T30 Torx driver (note that the two screws at the back are shorter than the others). Following that, removal of two additional T30 screws allows the foam cover to be lifted off. Be careful as you work with the cover off because the exchanger fins are easy to dent. Access to the silver electrical box is achieved by removing three T15 screws (one on top, and one on each side). Here’s the EasyStart device that I installed and the universal installation kit that comes with it: In general, I followed the wiring instructions provided by Micro-Air. I will say that I found the generic wiring instructions to be a little confusing (did I mention that I’m not a qualified electrician?). However, I was able to find specific wiring instructions for the Truma (that even I could understand) here: EasyStart Wiring Instructions for Truma A/C Although not necessary, I first removed the cap covering the wiring connections to the compressor motor with an 8 mm socket to confirm the wiring colors at the R, C and S terminals. (I don't know why but this photo is upside down and I couldn't figure out how to change it). I did deviate slightly from the installation instructions in one aspect, as I chose not to cut any wires but instead use terminal connections. That way, if I ever decide to remove the EasyStart, I can put everything back exactly the way it was. So instead of cutting the Red wire coming from the control board, I removed it and installed the provided 14 gauge Black wire with female terminal in its place. I then cut the Black wire and crimped on a male terminal to the portion not used and connected it to the female terminal on the Red wire that I had just removed. Finally, I used a WAGO push-in wire connector to tie these two to the black wire on the EasyStart. Next, after removing the white cap from the run capacitor, I installed the Orange wire from the EasyStart onto the Herm terminal next to the White wire. Then, I removed the Blue wire from the capacitor terminal and replaced it with the White wire from the EasyStart. Finally, I connected the Blue wire that I had just removed to the Brown wire from the EasyStart. Here’s a look at the wiring after everything was tidied up with zip ties: Overall, I’m pretty happy with the installation. However, looking back there is one thing that I wished I would have done and that is to add a bit of HVAC tape to the top of the EasyStart to give some additional support. I’m not sure how well the double sided tape will hold to the foam, especially given the conditions that some of our roads are in. I’ll probably go back and do that at a later time. BOTTOM LINE: After the install of the EasyStart, I noticed a very gradual ramp up of the compressor, as expected. More importantly, I can report that my Truma A/C runs very well with my 2000W Champion generator running on propane, even at 6000’ elevation. Added bonus: Unlike before, I can now run the A/C off my 15 A circuit at home. If you have any questions about this install, feel free to comment below.

I’ve seen several different placement configurations of these fans at the upper vent area on Olivers; attached directly to the vent panel or the panel frame, or supported behind the vent panel as you did; and facing straight forward blowing directly outward, angled or flat blowing upward. There may be some variances in performance due to placement, but I’ve never read anything derogatory on anyone’s installation. Regarding the bug screen, such pests have not been a problem for me, but know that it is an issue for some in different parts of the country. That said, I could probably attach a light-duty screen onto the back side of the upper vent panel if ever deemed necessary, as well as the lower panel in like manner. To your point, the commercially available screens, particular to fridge vents, appear more robust and may not work in conjunction with my method of fan installation; but some installers should certainly take this pest deterrent into consideration.

Agree, but understand the owner manuals are universal and state that some units may not have all of the features described. For example: “X-FAN function is only available on some models.” Furthermore, typical air conditioning is the Cool Mode setting wherein the compressor will regularly cycle to maintain a desired temperature and the supply fan runs continuously, which causes humidity spikes when the compressor shuts down periodically. In Dry Mode the compressor runs continuously for the sole purpose of condensing moisture-laden air to reduce humidity. Yes, this mode will chill the air much like Cool Mode, but since the compressor is set to run for a prolonged period the temp and humidity will continue to drop to such a point that it exceeds its function and thus, should then be turned off and the unit switched back to Cool Mode. Before Cielo, I had to use the Dry Mode to buffer occasional humidity spikes during the day, but when asleep at night I would often wakeup to extreme humidity levels at morning. The Cileo’s ‘Comfy Mode’ solved these dreaded humidity occurrences, both day and night!

@mountainoliver Was SDG able to utilize the Oliver’s internal condensate drain system? Mossey

I really like the unit so far. A little disappointed with the owners manual however. They tell us about certain features but they don’t describe exactly what they do. Curious about Xfan function and I can’t tell the difference between air conditioning and the dehumidifier function. The Cielo thermostat was not mentioned to me but I did notice that SDG had one on the wall in the office area! After using the new unit for about a week now in high humidity I’m really thinking about adding the Cielo thermostat.

Sad news that the North Rim Grand Canyon Lodge and the Visitor Center have been destroyed by fire. Praying for those that have suffered loss in this tragic fire. North Rim information The North Rim is closed for the remainder of the 2025 season because of losses resulting from the Dragon Bravo Wildfire.

I hate mubdobbers and wasps! This idea is a good one for that size bug. Inexpensive too! We run our fans 20/7 for months at a time. I have two new fans to replace my smaller ones. I'm thinking blocking off most of the top vent with 1/8" thick white plastic, and making two fan size holes to allow the fans to discharge directly outside. No screen needed there for this approach. This would eliminate the circulation effect that occurrs in a more open design where air can come out of the fan and circulate back into the fan's suction side. Sort of a "Ducted Fan" approach. Below I like the idea of using this screen all across the bottom vent area and using an inexpensive home A/C filter as a bug stop to the outside of the screen. The above vent being powered and sort of ducted will likely improve air flow actually out of the refer box area. That would over come the static resistance of the screen and filter below. Combined nearly all bug proof, not just my two worst friends mentioned above but smaller ones as well and areduce someof the dust that gets sucked into the refer backside. PS: I keep a fresh can of Wasp Spray in my front storage box for "encounters" of the worst kind. GJ

Guess I'm on a roll today..... I keep hearing that X-spring seems to make their trailer sure footed. Likely a good observation by credible owners. I suspect they do to at least some extent. But. Not once in eight years of crossing the Continental USA, running 9,000+ miles a year, always with significant highway and off road use in the mountains, have I ever had my OTT OE2 not be dirctly behind my truck. It just follows where the Anderson leads it. It does not sway. It does not wonder around, it does not wag it's tail at other pretty trailers we pass or that pass us, and it certainly has never been sideways to the path. It just follows behind me and always shows up in a second or two when we arrive. So, really is being "Sure Footed" a critical factor in selecting a trailer spring for all of us? Likely not. Whereas, ride of the trailer, and especially our contents, is an important spring selection consideration. For the 5%ers who have significant witness marks, you have other criterion of more critical importance, and that is keeping the axle U-Bolts from killing your frames welds due to how you love to use your trailers. For that you need the stiffness of the super duty 5 leaf Alcans. And I support that perspective for your use. But I suspect that "sure footedness" is not a relivant criterion for the majority of owners that don't have witness marks on our frames, and who's frame welds are not worried. 🙂 GJ

Dexter 5 leaf? Typo? Good that you are planning to change your springs before their roadside failure. The above generic chart provides general industry standard info. The Michelin provided chart for these tires also require at least 35 PSI. If an owner can not find a chart for their manufacturer, use of the above could be pretty good guidline. But with the internet the actual data for your tires is better. Here is the chart for mine OE2 tires: For talking purposes, a typical 6,000 pound OE2 will have a tongue weight of about 580 pounds. That calculates to about 2720 pounds for each axle. From the chart we are off the chart. One could mathamatically postulate that at the example axle weight we should use about 27/28 PSI. Not the case. The pressure shown on the left side is the minimum pressure to be used. But for the purpose of lowering running drag, and to give us more safe warning time when a tire is failing, most of us add some pressure. Likewise, I also run my OE2 with 40 to 45 PSI when on highway. If serious off roading I lower it further to 35 as per the charts. But if conditions dictate, for short duration I would not hesitate to go below the 35 PSI. And have twice with our Ollie. SUGGESTION: I like many other owners, believe that having a 20/18 volt air compressor (And a good plug kit) are musts when traveling far or traveling off road. GJ