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I have never had an issue receiving parts from Oliver. I send an e-mail first to: support@olivertraveltrailers.com I usually hear back from Mike Sharp within 24 hours. This is a standard part and Oliver should be able to send a replacement, cost + shipping. What is meant by "Oliver was unable to help"? You can order parts from Oliver.

Thanks so much for your replies. My husband has spoken to Mike directly twice and left messages a few times as well. It sounds like he is trying to source the part from the warehouse but we have not gotten any where for over a month. So I was hoping to just find out what the part is and get it replaced We have not submitted a ticket but we are trying that route right now. That’s a good idea. Appreciate the help!

Try this to submit a 'ticket' for parts / warranty isssues or service IF you haven't done so already. Oliver Travel Trailers Service | My Area | Submit a Ticket

I personally would hook a jackery to the battery cables in the battery box for maintenance purposes when winterizing with the house batteries removed. GJ

One other possibility to consider is moisture in the tank. If that exists, the expansion of the propane can drop the temperature of the gas below the water freezing point and it can block the line. We had that happen on a previous RV where the tanks weren’t properly purged prior to filling. I had a propane supplier add some alcohol (I believe it was ethanol) to the tank and that cured it. The ethanol absorbed the moisture and it passed through the regulator without freezing.

Have you tried a "mobile tech"? Bill

These look pretty close. https://a.co/d/4vsDRnm https://a.co/d/fXL5iZq

The awning power switch needs to be on. Then you can turn the lights on/off with the awning remote.

Hi Chris, I’m sorry to read about your jack issues on the road! I’m a little late to the party, but I can offer some switching information and a troubleshooting procedure. Or I could swing by your house if you still need help when you return. I read back on this thread and noticed that the question of why the motor has 3 wires was never answered. Per the Barker schematic, it looks like the jack motor should have only two wires, so the third wire creates confusion. The smaller gauge black (-) and red (+) wires are the motor leads, the larger black wire is a second ground to ensure good grounding of the motor. The toggle switch is wired to reverse the polarity of the motors leads, which reverses the motor for up-down travel. I’ve never actually looked at the jack’s toggle switches, but a reasonable guess is that they are DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) switches with a spring-back neutral (off) center position. They would have external jumpers that are’t seen in the Barker schematic. I filled-in the “likely” missing detail in the Barker schematic and included a sketch of the internal switching of a DPDT switch, the center row of terminals are common. Your rear jack doesn't include the head unit with the light, but the toggle switch should be the same. The fuse will be on the + feed wire, and the - ground terminates on the main ground bus with all the yellow wires. Oliver choose yellow for ground wires, but I don’t know if that holds true on older models too. Test across the two center (common) terminals with a multimeter in the dc volts setting. Use pointed probes being carful not to short across the switch terminals. You will need a second person to operate the switch: With the switch in center off position - 0 volts With switch down - around 12 volts With the switch up - around 12 volts (FYI - the polarity will be reversed). This will tell you if the switch is working, and if there is voltage to the switch. If the switch works, then the trouble is in the wiring between the switch and motor, or the motor itself. If there is no voltage on steps 2 or 3, then recheck the fuse and /or the wiring between the fuse and power source, or look for an open ground wire. Hope this helps ! Cheers! Geoff

Those latches do look close - I’d seen those or very similar. If we don’t hear from our ticket with Oliver I will give those a try (easy returns anyway!) Thanks for looking.

Yes, sequence is turn off solar, turn off that 30 amp breaker, then each individual battery, reverse to turn back on

Oh, I have no doubt it will work with my Turbro, I just don't think it will have the ability to override functions programed into the control board of the unit itself.

Good Morning Oliver family hope everyone had a Good Thanksgiving. Just wanted to let yall know I purchased a TOSOT A/C from TOSOT direct. I was very nervous about this and do not want to direct anyone to purchase this without doing you own investigation I am not an expert in this at all. After reading every article that came across the forum for over a year I had decided I would get the ATOMS 4.4 like Ronbrink and RIdeaduece and a couple others had. They no longer make that model that I can find. TOSOT is a spin off from Gree I think. This is now what offered by SDG which has great reviews in Elkhart Ind. several has used them. At the rally in May Mike let me listen to his very quite and was happy with along with good results from others on the forum. Well after looking for best price there was a $200 discount then I still waited for Black Friday to see if better deal which did drop an additional $160. So I pulled the trigger form TSOT direct $939 & $1039 with/softstart my total was $1,123.19 out the door which I thought not that bad. Im not sure this is apples to apples to the ATOMS 4.4 that was a 15K Ac the one I purchased is a 16K looks identical. I have not taken the cover off but from pics the ATOMS had 2 fans looks from pics mine has one big one maybe varible speed is the difference I dont know and I can not find that model. I am going to install myself or attempt in a few weeks with articles others have written very well. Any way just wanted to let anyone that might be in the market to get the 747 aircraft I now have on top the Ollie replaced. I ordered and it came not damaged only waiting on the soft start coming from different location. Today is the last day to get the additional $160 off just letting anyone know $1399 is list but for a while they have offered $200 off then another $160 till midnight 12/1/25. I hope it works out for me I will try to let everyone know as I go.

Thx Ron for letting me know I really wanted that model but every search i tried i could not find. Then when I saw thats what SDG now had i figured it must have been discontinued. I saw that amazon had it for the 902 but decided it would be easier if a problem from TOSOT direct for the additional 37$ even if thats where it was shipped from not sure. Oh well the train has left the station so I will try TOSOT and hope I get as good results as others of yall have had with the ATOMS 4.4. All of the specs seemed to be almost identical that I could see. Ron I have several questions that I have and will reach out to you when I get a chance to tackle the install if you dont mind. I really enjoy reading your input on all articles even though alot go over my head. Thanks always for your willingness to help and inform all of us with your wealth of knowledge. As with many of others yall are such a good group and I have learned alot and appreciate it greatly.

I recently saw on LinkedIn that the Dreiha Atmos 4.4 is still available, SDG only switched to TOSOT due to tariff cost-related issues. When last checked they install the 15000 BTU unit. I see that the 16000 BTU ‘Go Cool’ model is currently listed for $902 (White) and $1300 (Black) on Amazon!

Lots of good reminders and recommendations in this thread. There are two more: First, a good TPMS is essential for our trailers. Consider it SAFTEY Required. Secondly, if it hollers at you, immediately turn on the flashers and slow down to buy time. Find a flat spot to address whatever is amiss. Slowing down may likely turn a steel reinforcement wire nightmare into just a wobbling tire event. Great thread! GJ

Please edit and correct typos. Are these notes from the original Owner? Please add your trailer year to your signature. If the notes were from the original owner, I would be on the phone with him to get as much info as you can to share with the group.

The auto-switching function is most likely just broken, but the inability to even manually switch between tanks could have been frozen. Your regulator may not have worked properly even when it was new. With our hull #1291, I have had to manually switch between tanks since we bought it new in Hohenwald. That prompted me to invest in Mopeka tank sensors, which are on a Cyber Monday sale right now. Buy two, one for each tank. https://www.amazon.com/Mopeka-Check-Sensor-Steel-Tanks/dp/B09J6MXJKT/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7Exyy9znT-SQGS49BGKyHY8ska73Uv8UcW7kjFcD5amLXllefHdvZI9wor2zVTUu_HhYmQxB3bapRHQuaIsBOy6fqVjO7n3zsjQ9skHvk2LQmqIbgav0y31tXmkHXPjxRMvJD0WQLLb5H2SPD6tEMIXdiP5KAe6190HRcuSaGgLPY_82w62plWFkRqUzSt9C2P2BuIibPH-53VmHFVohGOm0i5u8ejoXxzjTHAFhKYA1KJi-YdzdikEnsHz5-nSqBoTB8mn2Lc_RZEoDJ-xbdZgGxet5-WJzelCBJJCRgn0.2nf7_EzuuwFWa_vGhzCEyPMqhD9F4i7-2d7c70IgJu0&dib_tag=se&hvadid=678467137404&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=39930829735022087--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=39930829735022087&hvtargid=kwd-2239628814146&hydadcr=7696_13589679&keywords=mopeka%2B2%2Bpack&mcid=2a3b25f10644368bbbb60cf5e4c564c8&qid=1764610880&sr=8-6&th=1 I monitor propane levels with the app on my phone, then manually switch when one tank gets low. I am interested to know if you are able to manually switch the regulator between tanks once it thaws out.

Vince, Sounds like you have a solid plan. Wishing you a seamless install and congrats on getting rid of the 747 “Deafening Demonic” jet engine😄. Just think, post install with a super quiet AC you will be able to sleep peacefully, hold a normal conversation, talk on the phone, watch a movie or listen to music. It was great meeting you at this year’s Oliver Rally. After Oliver installed out Truma, Aventa I brought my Dometic back home and sold it on FB marketplace pretty quickly for $600.00. It now sits on top of a food truck somewhere here in NC. 🤔 Let us know how your install goes! Happy Holidays to you and your family my friend!

In a perfect world, it would work just as you describe. With the Turbro/Pioneer inverter units, at least, this doesn't seem to be the case. Yes, the compressor does ramp up and down as needed but the internal supply fan works no differently than standard compressor units do. The fan has low/med/hi settings and is not a variable speed ECM motor like residential mini-splits have. Probably a money saving move and feature they thought people wouldn't miss in an RV. I sure miss it... especially in heat mode where the fan locks on high speed and doesn't allow any adjustment. Looking forward to testing with a Cielo thermostat soon to see if it can override this feature but my hopes are not high...

If that 12v circuit breaker with manual reset trips again, plan on replacing it! I replaced the cheap, low quality stock breaker in my OLEll with a high quality Blue Sea Systems breaker. Problem solved!

As a new member of the forum, welcome aboard! Lots of great owners out here with a many tons of knowledge that's way over my head as well. Especially in electronic gizmology. So please don't be shy in asking questions and then follow-up's when necessary. I can guarantee one, if not several, of the owners is an absolute expert on the topic du jour. Travel safe and enjoy every day, Geronimo John

Bill, thank you!! The fuse on the side of the battery compartment (not the one in the photo) had been tripped. Reset it and Success!! Pump and the rest of the 12v system came on. Winterization is now complete. Thank you all!!!

@Steve and Cindy, the RJ45 connector is reasonably well protected from rainfall when in use. The original Furrion cover acts as a small roof over the pass-through connector and cable when in use. When not in use, the black plastic cap for the pass-through connector fits into the RJ45 port and the Furrion cover closes over it. We have used the Starlink PoE setup through one thunderstorm will no ill effects observed. I examined the connector following the thunderstorm and did not see the need to add any further protection. Regards, Don

@Against The Wind Best to check with OTT (to be sure) regrading the switch. Or maybe tracing the wiress would be helpful.

Attached is Lithionics' most recent (to my knowledge) battery storage protocol. Note that if your batteries are "subject to winter conditions", Lithionics recommends that you either leave them connected to shore power (so the internal heaters can protect them), or remove them and store them "above freezing". Leaving shore power connected avoids the need for shutdown. For what it's worth, during our very cold winters in central Idaho, we leave our Elite II connected to shore power, but do a charge-discharge cycle after 6 months of storage. Lithionics Storage Procedure Rev.7-1.pdf

Sure! Each laptop is working independently so it only comes down to the internet "Bandwidth," which simply means how much data can be transmitted over time. Typical Starlink connections are very fast, usually greater than 100 Mega bites per second (Mbps) so you can easily stream video on more than one device at a time. That's why trailer park internet can be so slow; the more users means less available bandwidth.

Spring rating and spring capacity together determine how the road conditions impact the load. For a given load, a higher rated suspension will have less travel than a softer one. To put this at an extreme, if we go with an infinately strong suspension, say a block of wood, an input from the road will imediately be felt in the cab. This is not what we want. On the other end of the extreme, if we have a too soft suspension, the axle will bang the frame with every input. We don't want that either. And for this reason, all the springs and shocks being used by our owners fall between the two stupid extremes above. Hence they work. The root cause of these discussions as admitted by three Dexter Tech's to me that the original OEM springs being contineously loaded were under designed. That's why so many have prematurly failed. The good news is that many of us have upgraded our springs to higher rated ones. I personally recommend this to ALL OE2 owners who still have their OEM 1750 Dexters. So for those of us who have already done so, bascally all we are really fretting about is the personal selection of different options. It is Physics that if you have a stiffer suspension, you will get less spring travel. For some that is greatly needed. But if an owner of several years has zero witness marks on their frame and axle U-bolts, then likely they just need to address the under design issue and go with a compromise spring rate. As Ronbrink mentioned above, your shocks will wear in a bit and may help some. With the upgrades you have your rig is set up for great off road service. There is only one thing I can think of to amelerate your situtation. You may want to check YOUR tire MFG Pressure/Load chart for recommended tire pressure at your actual axle loading. If you don't know that number, please hit the scales. At 55 PSI, I would wager that you are well over your tire MFG recommended pressure. I recommend 40 to 45 tops for 95% of our OE2 owners weights. GJ

I spoke with Lew at Alcan about the differences in ride between the 4 and 5 leaf versions of the springs he has sold to Oliver owners. His response was that the 4 and 5 leaf springs have the same ride and spring rate (amount of weight required to be exerted on a spring to deflect it 1”). This makes sense as the 4 leaf versions are merely the 5 leaf with the shortest leaf removed, leaving the identical top 4 leafs in place. Since the shortest leaf doesn’t go to work until the first four leafs reach their limits this makes sense. So, my takeaway from my discussion with him is that both the 4 and 5 leaf versions of his springs have the same ride firmness when towing. The big differences are in lower unsprung weight (4leaf version has one fewer leafs) and higher load capability of the 5 leaf (due to the 5th leaf providing greater load capacity). oh, and over 20,000 miles on my 5 leaf Alcans with no issue of ride harshness or things getting jostled around (tires @50 psi and speeds not in excess of 70mph)

No Alcan upgrade, but kinda recall owners saying there is a reduction in the initial spring stiffness over time as they wear-in. I did however, recently install new Bulldog shocks and first go had things shift more than the prior; like hangers off the rail and propane housing dislodged from the center hanger mount. Luckily, all mellowed out in short order as the shocks quickly broke-in.

We haven’t had any content shifting issues. My impression so far is that the trailer seems more sure footed with the ALCANs. Mike

I have a built in compressor on the truck but yes, absolutely need some type of built in or portable air compressor. I personally favor the Milwaukee M18 portable compressor, which happens to be nicely discounted for Black Friday at this time: https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Inflator-with-2-5-0Ah-Batteries-and-Charger-2848-20-48-59-1852B/326514175

Great talking with you last night, David! Your new Victron upgrades look flawlessly integrated into EXPLOR -- they will serve you and Kathy well as y'all continue making future OTT adventures. Very impressive. As goes with all in the OTT community -- please reach out to us here in NM, as @Geronimo John and others can attest, we've got a nice flat area with 30Amps/fresh well water/and dump station for over-nighting in the Great Southwest USA! Nothing like burning game meat on the Green Egg and quaffing a few cold ones with friends. Safe travels, all and Happy (early) Thanksgiving to all y'all!

We moved back to our AZ home seven years ago after living for 12 years back and forth between two homes, where my tools were spread between the two and my truck. On Craig's I found large stand-up Snap-on toolbox and was lucky to find a huge, well made workbench setup that Adam and I disassembled to move and rebuilt it to fit a custom L-shaped layout around 2 stalls of our 3-car garage, the center stall being my workspace. I also found a used Tuff Shed for storage, so my garage would be solely an auto workshop, not junked up with storage items. I installed other standing toolboxes and cabinets, enough room for a major 45-year collection of hand tools and spare parts. Then I emptied every hand-carry toolbox into the larger stationery toolboxes. During a winter cold-spell I spent days sorting our every box and package I hade with nuts & bolts, auto parts, electrical and plumbing parts. , etc. I bought a case of blue plastic single-gang electrical boxes (cheap effective storage bins) to hold all the small screws, nuts & bolts, nails, crimp parts..., drawers full of them in mounted file cabinets. For years now to the present, I know where every tool and most spare parts are located. I return all tools to where they belong daily, unless I'm in the middle of a job I will continue the very next day. Spending considerable time in organizing your tools is well worth it. I get repairs done now in half the time, not having to hunt for parts and tools! In getting ready to work, climbing under truck or trailer, I think a hard 5-10 minutes and collect part & tools needed in flat plastic trays that I lay on the ground where I'm working. The other thing I bring, since I/we will always forget something is my phone. With Chris' office just inside our home from the garage entrance, she's nearby and often happy to help. 😂 She'll come out to hand me a tool or two, knowing its easier for her to do so vs. what it takes me to get off a hard garage floor, and then climb down again. I do mean the word 'climb' as the downs and ups are not as easy as they used to be! 🤣 We all prefer to work preventive maintenance at home vs. getting stuck on the road. I have enough extras that I've assembled a small dedicated toolbox and a plastic parts box for the Oliver. They sit in the bottom of my large truck toolbox along with a 3/4" breaker bar, cheater bar and other long items. Proud to be keeping our truck and trailer in good maintenance so that these tools just sit ready, and have not been yet needed, 124 overnights in two years with our Oliver! Hope to never need them, but I have what we need to change tires, bearings, leaf springs or do a truck repair, like replacing an alternator or water pump on the road. Now that we've upgraded to Alcan Leaf Springs, I just removed the spare set of 1750 LB springs from the TV. The Alcans are not going to fail in my lifetime, though I do have tools with to replace wet bolts/bushings or most anything else!

And the fact that Michelin stopped making a tire in the size needed for the Oliver. Bill