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I think I will wait until the problem has been diagnosed and corrected before I condemn or laud Oliver Travel Trailers quality control procedures. After all, this trailer was delivered by a 3rd party to Wyofilm. It is quite possible that everything worked as designed when it left Hohenwald. I do know that the experiences that I have had with hull #193 may or may not apply to hull #609, as OTT makes changes every year in order to create a better travel trailer. For instance, while watching the video of the new 2020 E2 a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the galley drawers appear to have an internal latch to prevent unintended opening while underway. I can’t confirm this because I haven’t seen it, but the video leads me to believe it. Mossey

It is not much help - but I have offered rv space on my property to a few traveling Oliver owners. (just hit me up - we are in Mid TN.) Water and sewer, and with a little Macgyver-ing, 120 service. Any port in a storm - six foot rule - not with standing.

gatorewc - Not having the lights work took a bit of shine off the new trailer, but as I said above the hull and frame is amazing. As someone mentioned above it is possible the switch was working during qc checks, but failed later (during the road trip out here). If this is the only problem I have, I won't mind. It wil be hard to test everything until winter ends.

Adco also makes custom RV covers from Sunbrella fabric. I've owned both over the years and strongly believe that the CalMark covers are better - and slightly more expensive. The reinforcing webbing that CalMark uses decreases the pressure on the fabric thus makes the cover stronger and longer lasting. Also, the CalMark has a "draw-string" in the hem at the bottom which allows you to tighten the cover around the bottom without the need for additional rope underneath. The only real problem with both covers is the weight. Getting the cover to the top of the Oliver (or any RV for that matter) can be a bit of a challenge - particularly if you try putting the cover on by yourself. However, I've never really had a problem taking the cover off given the smoothness and shape of the Ollie. I know that CalMark has the dimensions of the Oliver and, therefore, does not need you to measure yours for them. I would guess that Adco also has these measurements but do not know this for sure. If you have any other questions, fire away. Bill

Calmark makes a custom fitted cover, they are expensive to the tune of around $900 plus shipping. topgun2 has one and might chime in on his ownership pros/cons. Here is the linky... https://calmarkcovers.com

I must say this is very disappointing. As Oliver is touted by many as a premium level RV, the delivered product should arrive in near perfect order - in both appearance and function. I understand the RV industry is - on my opinion - pretty lax when it comes to initial quality and long term reliability - but I expect a $60k plus TT to be - if not perfect at delivery, at least have a functioning lighting system. Jeesh.. I'm sorry to hear about your Oliver troubles - frankly it disappoints and bothers me personally. I won't belabor the point any longer - OLIVER dropped the ball on this unit. RB After my initial musings, I felt compelled to follow-up with this - New customers - with a future delivery - be relentless and thorough in your review and inspection at delivery - don't accept less than satisfaction.

It can be repaired without any major renovations. You won't have to remove the shower pan. You'll need a special spanner wrench to reach into the drain and hold the chrome piece stationary while unscrewing the fitting from the dinette access panel outside the bathroom wall. You will need to either grow and extra 8 foot arm or get someone to help with this. This job is so much easier on the Elite II's than the old Elites due to the fact that the shower pan is now raised above the coach floor. It's still not easy, but it can be done. Good luck!

With the Covid 19 suggested travel restrictions keeping me home and properly distanced - I took the time to put Oliver in top shape: 1. Greased all fittings, repacked and replaced (one side) wheel bearings. 2. Verified all chassis fastener torques. includes the Dexter recall. 3. Rotated tires - front to rear, one rear to carried spare, one rear to "extra spare" . The trailer carried spare to front, and second spare to other front. (I purchased a second spare with my Oliver purchase.) So - two new tires to front, fronts now rear, spares are former rears. Basically a 13k rotation. 4. Washed and waxed Ollie. Used the Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax. I actually believe I prefer the regular Meguiar's. 5. Put a threaded "stop" on the powered antenna - it rotated around, a loose fit by design. Now it is secure and locked in place. 6. Pulled AC shroud off. Removed the bird nest detritus , waxed the shroud, replaced. 7. Added new gutters to all windows - the ones mentioned in other forum posts. I used a electric blanket to warm them up sufficiently and cleaned the surface with 3m cleaner. They are very secure - to my delight. 8. Enlarged the drain holes on the three side windows. (Just the ones on the "slide" glass) . Same rectangular look, just about 75% larger. 9. Added a bolt "stop" to the battery tray. Keeps the tray locked in place should the latch fail. I have seen one fail first hand in a friends Ollie. 10. Replaced batteries in all the remote Temp sensors. 11. Tested all the systems - except AC. Readied all systems for "GO". Sanitized the water system. 12. Thoroughly cleaned the interior, removed the excess floor glue that bugged me since purchase. 13. Bleach cleaned the window outside inserts, to almost new white condition - my new black ones are on back order...... Found my tire covers......... What did I miss? Other than a few "upgrades" I am contemplating..... RB

I have read some of the comments, and was surprised that I have one of the "terrible 200's". I don't feel that way about our unit at al!. We read the forums before ordering and decided that we wanted the Ez-Flex system which was optional. It is now standard. We added a 4" marine hatch to our propane cover, so we didn't have to take the cover off. They now put in a 6" hatch as standard. Our porch light has occasional black streaks. They changed the product supplied to them and newer units have no problems with them. Our unit had a drawer problem from too short a screw supplied by the drawer maker. The factory corrected it and those affected. All the while as they geared up production to almost double the assembly, they cared about the existing customer. if I can't pull a switch and ascertain it is bad, or put a panel back up, over some wires that vibrated loose, what will I ever do when time to figure how to dump? Or need to sanitize the fresh water tank, or winterize for a sudden storm coming? Or bring more fresh water through the outside port? We took these things as learning experiences as we learned about our unit and grew with them. As we encountered, an opportunity, and discussed it with the Oliver staff, we think we learned from the experience, and maybe more important, so did they. The listened to us...

Update: With OTT's help I was able to determine the 'Master Switch' is bad. Therefore, it will be an easy fix. They will send to me a new switch in the mail, along with a cover to the light in closet which is missing. The switch turns on two circuits simultaneously. The current switch fails to close one circuit. By jumping across the switch I was able to confirm that all my lights work. To other 2020 E2 owners, I learned that the wiring schemes are a bit different from early 2020 to later 2020 trailers with regard to the lights. In the end, slot 12 is now used for some lighting, but mine wasn't wired this way despite the new labeling. Also, they should label the in interior courtesy light switch it just sits there all alone on the wall below the pantry. This is especially true since the 2020 manual says that the switch is located on the Main Switch panel instead of its true (and better location) near the pantry. On to testing other systems ...

Perhaps overall quality has improved - only Oliver knows for sure (data, data, data) - and I hope they have internal as-built data to compare to the repair data, and are responding accordingly. I am jaded here, as my professional life was in the manufacturing and quality arena. I took two tours, and although i was impressed by the design and resulting build of the Oliver- their built-in quality and systems processes were not where I would have imagined - but from what I've since discovered - miles ahead of most RV manufacturers. As Landrover commented - "I'm hull #484 delivered last June way before for the COVID-19 many items quality control missed, obvious errors. At delivery one major. Then many after i got the unit home. " - and there are, as stated by others, many other anecdotal accounts of initial quality concerns For me personally - I'm happy Oliver does have a great service and warranty department - I've used it several times - and have been more than satisfied, but honestly, that only dampens the disappointment due to initial quality fails as a new owner. (not referring to any issue with components)." Don't know where they are two years later - but I continue to support them and their effort. Sure - I am reserving final judgement, but delivery doesn't have anything to do with the shortcomings in the documentation - nor would I think a no-incident delivery would have caused the issues as described. It would be great if it turns out to be a loose connection or similar breakdown. And finally - we do see a good deal of new and soon to be Oliver Owners perusing this Forum - and each post/topic of this sort - I'm sure, drives a little uncertainty/apprehension in the minds of these folks. ----- So to these folks - I am very happy to own my Oliver, it is a good to great TT, and as you will find, it draws attention everywhere you go, on the road and in the camp. Take a critical eye to your delivery experience, and I am certain you to - will also come to love your Ollie. Sorry to be so long, Happy Trails all. Be safe out there. RB

Thanks for the information. As you all said, that is quite a high price. I will have to weigh it against the cost of a permanent carport.

Most are. Some are 110v. I'm evaluating which one to go with. On the electric side, I am looking at everything inside being driven off an inverter all the time, and shore power going to a charger -- tired of garbage campground voltage. So it'd go mains->charger->batteries->inverter->loads. It'd be a second multiplus to get 220v everywhere. I'd also no longer have to worry about turning anything off to run the Microwave.

Yep, Calmark is the go to brand. They're not cheap, but the quality is top notch and the sunbrella fabric can't be beat.

Judging by the content of posts from new owners over the past few years, I think Oliver's quality control has been steadily improving since the low point of the 'Terrible 200's'. They seem to have the right processes in place; a very thorough, detail oriented person in charge of QC; and I don't think anyone at Oliver is any more accepting of QC problems than we are. Nonetheless, they're not perfect yet, and maybe never will be, but we can be glad in these cases that the company has always been very responsive in making things right with the owners.

Im hull #484 delivered last June way before for the COVID-19 many items quality control missed, obvious errors. At delivery one major. Then many after i got the unit home. But in there defense I will say they were right on the problems on got them fixed promptly and made things right. Maybe Oliver can weigh in on this. I relayed my concerns strongly. I think communication with in the company is the other problem.

Hope this is not a sign of things to come. We are supposed to take delivery on May 5. We are spending as much on our Oliver trailer as we did on our Mercedes chassis motorhome. If quality control is slipping on the line due to COVID-19, then Oliver needs to shut down until this is under control. I will not be at all tolerant of shoddy QC given our previous experience with our motorhome.

Yes, you will be using the regulator on board. Put the Blackstone hose and regulator in storage. Just install the fitting on the grill and leave it there. It’s your call whether you leave it installed or remove it each time you use the grill. It sticks out a bit but should not inhibit storage. Mine points to the back of the grill. I also have the carry bag which also offers some protection. When it's time to use the grill, just connect the male quick connection to the trailer and the female quick connection to the grill. Then turn on both of the shut off handles to the open position and you are ready to light the grill. I can post some pictures if my instructions are not clear. Mossey

22 feet+ (which is right where the CC+LB F350 is) results in higher ferry fees here too. $20 turns into $30 or $60 depending on height - 7'2" being the breaking point. Also when I talk the "short" bed for the F350, it's 6.8' long vs the 5.5' on the 1/2 tons. So not long enough to carry plywood/sheetrock with the tailgate up, but certainly ok with it down. We'd also take a double cab, long bed -- but those aren't too easy to find. With the factories shutdown, not sure I want to order something right now.

My ‘13 200 tows just adequately, it is stock except for 33” LT tires and rear airbags. It has the six speed tranny and 3.90 gears. It would do great with lower 4:30 gearing like the Tundra, about a $2000 upgrade using takeoff ring and pinion sets. There have been a number of discussions, search and you should find them. Would I buy another to replace this one? No, I would get a 3/4 ton gas pickup and scrap the Andersen. John Davies Spokane WA

Storage I'm not a fan at all of tool boxes for inside the vehicle. They're noisy, bulky, and your tools get scuffed up. If you're keeping your tools in the back of the truck and don't care if they get banged around, then go for it. I have mixed feelings about tool rolls. On the one hand, they're the classic way of storing tools for travel, they're relatively compact, they keep your tools protected and quiet, and they keep everything organized and easy to find. But while great in theory, I've had a hard time finding tool rolls that work well in practice. Too few pockets, too many pockets, the pockets are too narrow to fit your tools, or too wide and your tools fall out, or they're too short for that one wrench that you then can't find a place for, etc. I have found that they're great if they're tailored for a specific tool kit, like the Tekton Wrench Sets above, and I do like the Socket Roll that I mentioned earlier. I do use this tool roll for my wrenches and this one for my misc. stuff. In both those cases, I bought the rolls so I'm determined to use them; but honestly, I'd rather use bags. But those leather rolls do smell great. What I really like are tool bags. Specifically, I like having my tools divided into a number of small tool bags that I can grab individually rather than pull out a big, heavy bag with all my tools in it. I've had good luck with these bags from Blue Ridge Overland. They're a little pricey, but they're good quality; and most importantly, they just seem to be the right size and proportion. The vinyl front doesn't really let you see anything inside, like they claim, but what it does do is provide a nice surface for some bright orange gorilla tape, which can be marked with a fat sharpie and is perfect for labeling the bags. I've found that these bags stuff well wherever I want them, and they're flexible enough to wrap around the tools to keep them quiet and protected. I absolutely hate rattles in cars, and these bags keep me happy. I also like these waterproof DAKA bags from Magpul. They're more expensive than the Blue Ridge bags, but they're definitely tougher. Plus they have a nice grippy surface, so I can see them being a good choice if you have to get out in the rain. I've tried cheaper bags from Home Depot and places, but those always end up being a difficult size to fit things in, or they tear up and so I seem to keep buying the ones from Blue Ridge. This larger size version fits my impact wrench, work light, charger, and spare batteries perfectly. As for how much space in the truck all of this takes up, well, judge for yourself: About half of the tools go into the storage tray under the rear seat. The ones velcroed to the seat bottom hold tape, zip ties, electrical repair stuff, etc. (The red bags on the back seat are first aid kits, which get stuffed into backpacks when we travel, and the larger black bag is for trash.) The remaining tools go behind the smaller, fold down seat back: The center console is packed, but is organized well enough that it stays that way: And even the glove box stays clean - the grey bag holds the key to my wheel locks and a few other things that the dealer might need to get to, and the red one holds a couple EpiPens and some other first aid things. Then some USB cables, window scraper, owners manual, and a pair of gloves: So there you go - a (hopefully) complete tool kit that takes up next to nothing inside the truck.

Hi all, Yesterday evening was an exciting day as our new Oliver (#609) arrived by third party. Western Wyoming did it's best to greet the driver with snow flurries. I was going to pick it up in person but changed plans as the world starting sliding sideways with covid-19. Today started the shakedown process in our yard. The trailer looks fantastic: it's solid and beautiful. I have been working my way through systems (all except plumbing). Blew a fuse right away on one of the back leveling jacks. After replacing the fuse, it worked without problem. I haven't managed to figure out how to heat the Ollie yet, but I think I need more quality time with the manual. 12v lights is what has me stumped ... All exterior lights, interior curtesy lights, reading lights, and the closet light all fail to function. None of the blue lights come on the switches that should control these lights. Strangely a 5 amp fuse was missing in the control panel location labelled "Cabin/Cabinet Lights". This is the bottom most position ((12.) in the 12V fuse panel near the dinette. Without a fuse in place the overhead cabin and cabinet lights work fine. Addition of a 5amp fuse didn't solve the problem of the other lights. All other switches near the entrance light up and the operations they control also work. Has anyone else had similar problem? Is there another 12V control panel somewhere? Is there a detailed diagram of the wiring in Oliver University? (If there is, I haven't found it). Oh, yes, one last question: There is a switch on the wall below the pantry. Unlabelled and all alone. It also doesn't light up when thrown into the on position. What is it supposed to control? Thanks!