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This dimension will be the same for all Tow & Stow models regardless of shank size or drop length. WIth the shank installed in the drop position, the highest bracket position is equivalent to a zero rise. Therefore, the height of the ball above the shank will be 2-1/2" for the 2" ball or 2-3/4" for the 2-5/16. Somebody with a digital caliper can make a liar out of me.

Most WD hitches creak and groan. They were probably just admiring your rig.

Oliver supplied a lug wrench set with the universal selection of sockets when I picked up my LEII. If they still do, just repurpose the handle and use the socket with your torque wrench. You will have to buy a short 1/2" drive extension however.

Probably because he didn't have any to install.

Another point to remember is that bearing don't have a recommended change interval. Don't just assume because they have 12,000 miles on them they're shot. The number one cause of trailer bearing failures is infrequent use and the subsequent corrosion or pitting that can occur due to grease contaminated by condensation/moisture forming inside the hub. Routine inspection and repacking, or more frequent supplanting of old grease, are the accepted ways to extend bearing life.

There are a lot of unnecessary parts listed in that kit, some you can't even use. All you need are the bearing cones and races and a grease seal. Everything else can be reused unless you damage or lose something. The bearing sets are available for $5-6 and a seal is around $3-4. Those bearing part numbers listed are correct for your axles but they are also industry standard numbers that every bearing manufacturer uses. Timken specific numbers to search for a cone and race set are: SET17 (for the inner), SET4 (for the outer), and then 473336 for the seal, which may be in either a National or Timken box.. Sometimes pricing will vary between buying a SET part number and the individual numbers. For instance: SET4 versus L44649 and L44610.

There are two fittings on top of the EZ Flex. One points forward, the other toward the rear.

The automatic switch between heat and cool alone is worth the price of admission to me. My only concern is whether the Penguin II is worthy of such a fine upgrade.

Granted there is some speculation in my comments but, it's hard to tell the amount of purchase by the latch bolt because the strike plate engagement side of the bolt isn't visible in the second set of latch pictures. If the problem of coming unlatched underway doesn't occur if the door is pushed in until a final latch bolt "click" can be heard, then that is how mine has worked since new. As long as the dead bolt is not dragging on the strike plate or bottoming out on the door frame before full extension, I'd consider this to be a tight sealing door and wouldn't adjust anything.

Looking at the first of the two strike plate pictures, it seems to me as thought the door frame was not properly prepared for the plate. In the picture, looking through the rectangular plate opening, you can see a portion of the door frame extending from the right until it breaks to the rear. On my 2018, this portion of the frame is cut out to allow for full extension of the two latch bolts. In this situation, I suspect the two bolts are bottoming out on the door frame before full engagement, which makes the latch bolt susceptible to becoming unlatched due to frame twist when the trailer is in motion. I'd suggest sending these pictures to OTT service along with my comments and see what they think. I'm not near my trailer but maybe someone else with a later model can provide a comparison to your pictures.

I seem to remember at least one manufacturer of external TPMS sensors recommending that a 1/2 ounce weight should be applied 180 degrees opposite the valve stem to counteract this additional weight.

It is possible that a tire and wheel can be in balance without adding any weights. If the tire is match-mounted to the rim, whereby the lightest spot of the tire is aligned with the heaviest spot of the rim (usually the valve stem), a modern quality tire could very well be within a 1/2 ounce of being out of balance. In this situation, no added weight would be necessary to achieve an acceptable static (ie: single plane) balance. A dynamic, two plane, balance is rarely necessary for tires with an aspect ratio of 75 or greater especially on trailer applications. Any quality installer will as a matter of course perform match mounting in order to minimize added weight. These same quality installers with also always use a pin plate balancer adapter no matter the wheel type and/or application. This is the only way to insure a wheel assembly is mounted true on the balancer shaft. Before calling out Oliver, another point worth mentioning is that the wheel style currently (2020-up) being used on the LEs may not allow for clip-on weights. For these, stick-on strip weights would be necessary and may not be as visible to the untrained eye. If present, they would be positioned on the rim, near the centerline, and should be visible looking through the spoke openings.

I spoke with Jason Essary about the tire/wheel combo during my late 2018 LEII pre delivery inspection. He commented that they obtain the assemblies balanced, nitrogen filled, and inflated to 80 psi from their vendor. Further, that RVIA required them to specify 80 psi on the loading label. I suspect OTT mfg doesn't ever put a tire gauge on them.

This is an undesirable end result of using the house battery bank for the emergency breakaway source. It's either a RVIA or DOT requirement, maybe both, that the switch be directly connected to the battery. Normally, with a dedicated breakaway battery, this isn't an issue because wire lengths are miniscule. Common sense and best practices always overrule ambiguous requirements. I added a 25 amp type 2 auto reset breaker. 25 is the maximum ampacity of the 14 awg wiring so it won't burn up if it shorts or the switch fails, and high enough to eliminate any potential for tripping on initial surge. Whatever device you choose to use, make sure the interrupt capacity rating is adequate for your battery bank capacity.

Ugh. Guess I should have read the entire post instead of just looking at the picture.

Update to earlier post: No changes by Morryde. Looking at the photo zoomed in, it appears as though Oliver has added narrow rubber strips to isolate the batteries from hook damage. I'll have to check mine but I seem to remember the Trojans being a pretty tight fit. Not sure this will work as a retrofit solution, but if it does, OTT needs to step up. Then: How to resolve total battery weight vs tray maximum capacity issue.

I'm seeing something different here. The J-hooks are still there but the battery tray appears to be an updated design. The slots for the hooks are through horizon angles at the top of the tray, rather than through the vertical sides. This moves the hooks above and outside the storage area. I'm trying to get info from Morryde on this change and also whether the 250# max capacity rating has changed to negate overloading by the GC2 AGMs.

I've used rigid foam board insulation (polystyrene) for a vibration mat and blocking spacers. The battery weight will create a slight indentation in the foam mat, which tends to cradle the battery and keep them from moving.

I could prefaced my alternator comment with: If there will be any chance of upgrading the charge wiring and adding a B2B charger. A factory secondary could have a drive ratio more tailored to the intended use.

Personally, given the option, I would never pass on the opportunity for a factory installed second alternator. Trying to duplicate later would be much more expensive and potentially less reliable. Air suspension? Nice to have when they work but notoriously unreliable after a few years and expensive to fix out of warranty. It's a trade off with considerations for length of ownership and abuse truck will be subjected to. Not for me because there are lots of gravel roads and snow where I am and I tend to run things until the wheels fall off.

You should also be thinking about the future Elite III.

But the payload hit may make it a nonstarter.

Not Tesla but this may get the ball rolling. https://techcrunch.com/2020/12/08/rivian-is-building-its-own-ev-charging-network-but-with-an-adventurous-twist/?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly9hcHAuYXNhbmEuY29tLzAvaG9tZS8xMTYxMjgxOTI5NDEyODY0LzExOTk1NTU3OTUwNTIwODM&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAJxaQrHAwb-CculLw98766mI4LhJOBH5vvGQ5XZfkXgUwfsJRH9kIOADdq4mw94pAXKzq5bBqZrtl6CN9iLyjMRp6CdSD1c6CQNTdjwalZmHcBVLyXTdpWxpIo3an2R_jjEjoV4uuZ2Y_z6oU9susKfEU6XoGR_xc5lpH8q87JQH

It may be that the inverter has gone into power standby assuming the power button is in the on position. (In/down) Plugging in a lamp with 75W or greater light bulb in should wake it up. If this is the case, I would go into the settings and turn the power save timer off, then use the power switch on the inverter to put it in standby when it's not going to be needed for long periods.