CRM

Looking to buy bearing kits for my Elite II but the factory stickers are far too faded to make anything out. They do have numbering painted on them but they don't come up as a part number on the Dexter site. Can anyone identify what axles I have, or maybe I am just better off pulling one of the hubs off at get the numbers off the bearings?

While there are situations like a cold damp basement where only a dehumidifier will work to remove excessive moisture, that's not what's happening in the video from the original post. Their issue is undoubtedly due to short cycling of an oversized unit. They have a 13.5k unit in a 10 1/2 long insulated truck camper which will never run long enough under the conditions they're in to keep humidity in check. Eventually, VRF (variable refrigerant flow) systems like those used in residential mini splits will be available for RV's and will virtually eliminate these humidity issues. There are currently wall mounted units available that are rated for 13k that have the ability to throttle down to 2.5k automatically based on temp/humidity settings.

That Houghton designs their units to run the fan continuously after the compressor shuts down is a head scratcher for sure and definitely can contribute to your humidity problem, but based on your description of how quickly it cools down your cabin, even on low fan, I would bet that your unit is also oversized for the conditions you use it in. Oversized units usually don't pose much of a problem until high humidity enters the picture, at which point they do such a good job at removing sensible heat (thermostat setting) that they don't run for a long enough time to reduce the humidity to comfortable levels. At that point you have two options, run it cooler inside than you desire so it runs longer and hopefully reduces the humidity level to your liking, or use a dehumidifier and let it duke it out with your AC unit. I say duke it out since it's also heating the air in the cabin as it reduces humidity. Another side effect of running an oversized unit is that even if you do knock the humidity in the air down quickly after starting up you may still have a higher amount of moisture remaining in your cushions, blankets, clothes, etc that will release into the lower humidity cabin air after your unit shuts down. Combine this with the blower continuing to run over the wet evaporator coil and the humidity from breathing and the cabin humidity can climb fast without much or any change in actual temperature.

Their humidity problem is undoubtedly being caused by either the unit being oversized (my guess) or they aren't running it in dehumidifying mode or low speed fan setting (if that unit has such features) while operating in humid conditions.

This actually talks about sweating in a low humidity environment, not high.

I think a big part of the humidity issues some are having is that most units are oversized for the volume of airspace being conditioned, especially when that airspace is well insulated like our Ollie's are. In high humidity conditions temps are knocked down quickly (but the humidity is not) which results in short cycling of the unit. The humidity issue is made worse by setting the fan to the "on" position since once the compressor shuts down any moisture still on the evaporator coil will be sent directly back into the living space as vapor and will not have the time to drain to the outside as intended. We have an older Coleman 9.2k unit and have no such issues with humidity even though we do all of our camping here in Florida where it's almost always hot and humid. We usually set the thermostat to around 70 and the fan to "auto-low" which pretty much keeps the unit running non-stop and humidity at 50% or below. Not sure if these Houghton's have an "auto-low" setting, but I highly recommend using that setting in high humidity conditions. Might also be a good idea to contact the manufacturer to see if the fan's CFM (cubic feet per minute) is adjustable as it is in residential AC units. A lower fan speed would help remove more humidity by increasing the run time of the compressor.

I always wax decals, but never compound or polish over them.

It also includes any dealer installed options. They're supposed to update the plate on your vehicle to reflect the added weight but this doesn't always happen.

https://www.kbb.com/car-advice/payload-guide/

The driver is not included in payload capacity either.

That's a new one on me.. I was always told that payload is the difference between GVW Gross Vehicle Weight and Curb Weight. Curb weight including fuel, fluids, and all options on the truck but no passengers or added loads.

The idea is that if moisture builds, it will form between the hull and the air gap on the bottom of the underlayment. The underlayment is a vapor barrier so that no moisture can penetrate through to the bottom of the cushions. I have a dehumidifier that is always on set at 50% or below so that should quickly remove any condensation that forms. If not, I'll add another section along the walls behind the upper cushions to increase airflow and give any moisture another route to escape. This underlayment is also a thermal barrier so moisture shouldn't ever build in the top pockets. "Shouldn't", we shall see..

Well, got around to installing the DMX-1 Step underlayment and very happy with the results. Lays flat right from the roll and was easy to cut and fit. About $30 worth of materials and (I think) it will perform better than Hypervent. Time will tell..

Looking at used Land Cruiser's right now and most of them that I'm interested in are selling over original sticker.

I have some of this DMX-1 Step underlayment leftover from a flooring project and I'm thinking of installing it under the cushions in my Ollie. I'm fairly certain that it will allow more than enough airflow to prevent condensation under the cushions plus it is a moisture and thermal barrier too. Additionally, it's much thinner than Hypervent and only costs around 70 cents per square foot. Any thoughts, pro or con? Seems to be a superior solution to me, but maybe I'm missing something? https://dmx1step.com/

They're readily available in the electrical dept at any Lowes/Home Depot and on Amazon.

Was just going by the weight specs on their website. They'd be smart to include the optional towing package capacity in those specs..

Looks like towing capacity is only in the 4k range for most models. Personally, I wouldn't even attempt it.

Maybe a difference in base build? Looks like my link to the 2009 prices is broken so attached the pdf with base and option prices. elite_22(1).pdf

Our LE2 came with Corian-Type counter tops and I love them, though my wife doesn't and thinks they look cheap compared to the current counter tops.

The very first LE2's in 2009 had a base of $42,999 which in today's dollars would be approximately 60k. So about 13.5k increase in base model cost over inflation. If base equipment from back then is compared to 2023 that number will obviously drop much further. 2009 Elite II Brochure

Love the pipe cleaner idea and will use that whenever we're traveling. Had some issues with occasional small leaks from the windows myself while stored, but after a good track cleaning, and adding a piece of Saran Wrap on the window that also overlaps the window track, I've had zero problems. I think the biggest issue with Ollie windows is that small debris can get past that small gap between the outside rubber seal and the glass that eventually builds up to the point that where it blocks the weep holes. For me, the Saran wrap has solved that issue. Might start using a piece of window film instead for a solution that lasts longer and is reusable.

No Reflectix insulation in my 2010 either, but it does have the sprayed on "LizardSkin" which I'm told works even better as a reflective barrier. Haven't had it in cold weather conditions yet, but it along with the air gap seems to do the job very well in direct sunlight and 90+ temps.

Same here, but still no payload specs on it that I can find. Only ads touting the towing capacity...

Yeah, he went into it knowing that they had no low temp charge sensor, but he already had battery heat pad and battery temp sensor wired to his charge controller so that wasn't an issue to him. I'll be watching closely how they work out. Have good AGM's right now, but looking to upgrade to LiFePO4 and adding solar in the next year or so.