Leaderboard

i recommend this basic heat-only thermostat, it works well, has a very small dead band (temperature swing) and looks very nice. My Ollie came with an Air Command AC and that isn’t compatible with the fancy stat, so Oliver installed a clunky mercury switch type one, that failed after three years. This one has been working great since then. I don’t care about programmable features, the first one up in the morning gets to raise the temperature. Emerson 1E78-140 Non-Programmable Heat Only Thermostat for Single-Stage Systems 1: Zamp SAE style connecters are junk IMHO, they are not waterproof, so you can get corrosion problems, and they use an oddball reverse polarity design. This is basically the same type as the (horrible) flat 4 pin trailer connectors that fail so often. I would replace any Zamp ones with standard solar PV connectors like this or else with Anderson Power Poles. That is what I did to my 100 watt Zamp suitcase panel. ….. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5478-how-to-remote-mount-the-controller-of-a-suitcase-solar-panel-not-inside-the-trailer/ I like my 100 watt panel, that 140 watt one will be good too, but these are quite heavy and bulky. Make sure you have a place to store it, preferably in its case on end, not flat. Zamp has newer panels that are way lighter and less bulky, but they are super expensive. I have a Furion port, and it works fine but is a PITA to install on a cable, it has to be soldered and that is quite difficult with 10 AWG wires! And it is limited to 10 amps. If I had to do it again I would probably install this port: All of these PowerPole parts are very high quality and reliable, don’t require soldering, carry a high current and are self cleaning as you plug them together. This is the system that ham radio operators love. They are NOT waterproof, if you camp ofter in a rainy climate, they would not be as good a choice IMHO. (But in rainy weather you will probably just store the panel away, as I do.) 2: solar port location is best as close to the batteries as possible, but ChrisMI’s suggestion is a good one too, especially if you are already swapping out the panel connectors. If you plan to add a DC to DC charger at the truck, then go WAY big on cable size, like 00. That way you can run a big charger, 30 + amps. 3 - hook the port cables directly to your battery positive and negative buses, with a 10 amp inline fuse or resettable circuit breaker in the positive wire. Use 10AWG or bigger wire, even if the port is close by. The solar charger doesn’t have to “interact” with any of the other systems, that happens automatically anyway, based on battery voltage. I hope this helps. John Davies Spokane WA

Must be why I always eat 3 donuts. 😋 And remember, ”you don’t have to be hungry to eat a donut"!

I was able to resolve the cumbersome stowage of my Sky Escape by installing an upper shelf under cap. The Clam is positioned diagonally along with the separate panel bag and assorted camp tables. This mod really freed up a lot of bed space for all of my other necessities!

Very cleaver use of a pair of Gorilla Ladder Work Platforms. I will try to remember this mod. Mossey

It sounds like you want to go first class on your upgrades. Before settling on your current intentions, you might explore the expanded benefits of a Victron solar controller and a Victron Multiplus 2k inverter/charger. After having upgrading to these items in an Airstream, I find I miss their capabilities in our Ollie. I know that I'll be changing our 2020 Ollie setup in the near future. I hate to spoil your plans, but I'd hate it more if I didn't point you toward the alternate options that I'll be making (again.) BTW, I think the Ollie is Sooo much better than comparable Airstreams!

Two is one and one is none ;)

I had Sign Concepts in Portland, make my front graphic utilizing a 3M type of product. Any sign shop should be able to make whatever design you want. If you provide them a pdf of a imagine you want and tell them the size, it will be easy for them and not expensive. It was easy to install but you need to apply it so you do not get air bubbles underneath. I was going to have a lobster on the front of my Ollie but could not find a imagine that I like so I decided on a imagine of our local Portland Head Light lighthouse. The Portland Head LIght lighthouse was commissioned by George Washington in 1787 and he hired Jonathan Bryant and John Nichols to do the construction. (a little trivia FYI)

Another place you could check for a phantom draw is the light in your rear storage garage. I am kind of embarrassed to admit this but recently while camping I opened the streetside rear storage hatch at night and it was lit up inside! I had never really thought about there being a light in there. It could have been on for over a year since I picked up our Oliver for all I know.

We also used Banana Banners. We emailed her pictures of the design our daughter drew and had a large front logo and two small ones for the sides made. The one on the front has a couple of small ragged spots on the edge which can be seen if you are up close washing or polishing the front of the trailer. The two small ones on the sides are perfect. Paula

Our logo has been on for almost 6 years. There’s a small spot at the top where it separated, maybe 1/8”, it’s hard to see unless you’re on a ladder looking. I installed it at our first campsite, after pick up in Hohenwald, at Land Between the Lakes. I had a local graphic designer draw it up based on what we wanted (Texas star, compass points and Oliver winding road, in red and gray). A local print shop printed it on some kind of 3M material. I actually have two of the big ones (23.5” diameter) and 6 smaller 5” diameter.

Boondocking in Quartzsite, AZ. Found a nice spot at Hi Jolly and a open mic session broke out on the rear deck of the neighbor’s RV. Its amazing the things you can find away from hookups.

I've read all ya'lls most recent comments (huge benefit and thank you!!) and stayed up reading manuals last night. I believe you nailed it with the Blue Sky charge controller being frozen, therefore it was not doing its job. The backlit greet light has always been on anytime I went to check on the trailer and anytime I pressed on the Next button the screen never changed from what is shown in my attached picture. I thought that very odd but regretfully I did not follow up to educate myself as to why. Pulling the batteries caused a reboot and (fingers crossed) hopefully BlueSky will come back on working correctly. Thank you again for all the contributions and comments. I am going to plug away at my education and work on getting these batteries healthy and reinstalled. Hopefully have good news to report later. Alberta

Jim - Welcome back! You might want to send a PM to Seadawg in this regard. Bill

Everyone is different. It’s nice that you camp as you did in the 80’s. A lot of us like to explore our National Parks and Monuments. Most of the campgrounds in these areas have no hook ups. We’ve discovered the capabilities of our Oliver allow us to spend time in some very scenic areas without being concerned with power requirements. Like you, we do like FHU commercial campgrounds, occasionally. But, nothing beats being out in a National Park or some even more remote areas, with no other campers nearby, enjoying a quiet sunset with a nice glass of wine. Life is good! Mike

Yep, we’re on the road! We boondocked for up to a week with no issues. A mix of Harvest Hosts and NH and VT state parks with no utilities on our trip to Maine. We don’t use our inverter much, so most of the load is the 12V things in the trailer. With some sun, we were usually back up to 100% by early afternoon. Even when we had an electrical hookup I rarely turned our charger on, just relied on the sun. Mike

CW, Like Mike, we also have two Battle Born 100 ah batteries. We have 340 watts of solar and a Victron MPPT solar controller. We don't have a built-in inverter but, use a 400-watt portable inverter for the wife's flat iron. We dry camp and deep shade, with temperatures above freezing, we go six days without needing a recharge. If there is any real sun at all, we could go indefinitely. Hope that helps. Andrew

This ac is only recently available in the US, other than the wildly expensive (same) unit from advanced rv. It has been off and on backorder since intro. I waited several weeks for mine. I could do that. A manufacturer can't. I'm grateful that we're finally seeing new, quieter, more efficient units in the USA, instead of just eu and Australia. I suspect, when supply chain issues become resolved, this type of unit could become a consideration.

We have used our Houghton extensively this summer in the hot NC climate as well as on several camping trips. First, I run our Houghton off of the Lithium batteries (as Minnesota Oli mentioned above) all the time. I also run it off of a small 2400W generator with no issues - and no Soft Start. I have very little experience with the original Demonic AC that came with the Ollie because after trying unsuccessfully to run the AC and sleep (or think or talk for that matter), the Houghton was virtually my first (and in hindsight still the best) upgrade / mod. I talked to Houghton a while back about the cycling and they said it is working as designed (4 minute cycles when close to the set temp). I have the proprietary formula they use and they asked me not to share it publicly, but if anyone wants it PM me and I'll find it. I typically put the AC on 60F and it cools quicker without the cycling. Then when it's close to the temp I want I back it off and let it maintain with the cycles. The dehumidifier works amazingly well too. Actually, both the AC or the dehumidifier set low (like 60F) take out tons of water very quickly. Water does run off of the roof with the Houghton, so I just used some EZ gutters to divert the water to the back - rather than running down the sides and/or and getting into the window tracks, etc. It has a heat pump that I haven't used yet, and I'll likely stick with the gas furnace for heat and only use the Houghton heat as a backup. So far I give the Houghton a 10 out of 10 when compared to the competition.

@routlaw, that's not a diss, it's offering your experiences, which is what Southbird was looking for. I am surprised that your Dometic was so noisy. I wonder if it used a different type of compressor? Most marine brands (vitrofrigo, isotherm, etc.) and truckfridge use the Danfoss/secop compressor. Or, if you had a bum fridge. I've never seen or heard a Dometic 12v running, so I couldn't comment there. I, too, think folks get a bit carried away with the leveling for the 3ways. Pretty much, if you're comfortable in the trailer, the fridge is fine. I think our Dometic manual said either 4 or 6 degrees out of level was OK, and we never had any problems in the mountains, either. In many ways, the 3way can be the ideal boondocking fridge, as it doesn't use much dc power running on gas.

We’ve used metal pans, and aluminum foil…never had an issue. One of our favorite things to do with the convection oven is to cook things like chicken pot pies, or lasagna, or other wonderful things like that from farmers markets or the like while on the road…. No prep work, not much clean up.. Sometimes the best cooking is someone else’s cooking….

We've never owned a danfoss or swing arm compressor 12 volt refrigerator, but have used them in rentals in Australia, and were very happy with the results. Ours used very little battery power. Very common in the boating g world as well. I'll look forward to hearing your comments after you've used yours for a year or two. As for our 3ways, I have found the separate cooler for drinks to be very helpful. I also organize the 3way the same way all the time... Lightweight stuff on the door, leave breathing space near the fins, produce near the bottom, in plastic containers to minimize freezing lettuce, etc. I go into the fridge only a handful of times a day, if possible, to avoid dumping cold, and taking in humid air which hastens the ice buildup. Btw, Reed, Oliver trailers have always had the plastic vent grates. Never had a problem with the hinge. (But then, I don't put heavy items items on the door, and use the counter, not the door, if I need support to get up off the floor on days when my knee acts up.) The bottom tray Reed mentioned would be nice when defrosting and cleaning, too. I use a dishpan, but it doesn't catch everything. Sherry

Hello All, It's been a while since I used this forum, and opened a new account since I couldn't remember much about my old one! I have Hull 389, Nov 2018, and I suspect the eyebrow board on the Dometic RM 2454 is shot, and no eyebrow boards are available anywhere including Dinosaur Boards. I have bookmarked a few pages on this forum with tips on how to possibly revive the board and will try them next week. I seem to remember that someone swapped out their Dometic for a Truckfridge or something similar, and in case I can't get my Dometic going, I would be very appreciative of any tips or threads on how to pull it off. Thanks in advance, Jim