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I personally see no reason to upgrade to a 2 5/16 setup, I'm looking for all those "Horror Stories" that seem to be out there somewhere, only 'Horror Stories" are from those who are improperly towing with the wrong setup, that is tow vehicle and trailer are not matches for each other. I find that Oliver owners spend a lot of money on addons just because they have it to spend, not so much because it's needed, it's like keeping up with the "Jones". trainman

The main advantage of the 2-5/16” bulldog hitch is to take advantage of the greater towing and weight carrying capacities provided by the larger truck’s that many of us have upgraded to. There is, however a certain amount of cool factor involved as well.

Thank you @sarah1971 for rescuing this trailer. Personally, I always thought it looked like a cobbled together mess. You have made it whole and beautiful once again.

Hey everyone, Thanks for the speedy replies! I’m so looking forward to making my Ollie my own and seeing what you all have done. No solar on mine, just marine batteries, and original axle that my repair guy explained had been installed in the higher configuration, so that it essentially has a lift. Sorry if that’s unclear… clearly I’m new at this 😂 Anyway, I kept the original axle as it had lots of life left. I did get new aluminum wheels as the original chrome ones were pretty pitted. I think that most things are stock, no fancy options. Previous owner took off the interior belly band. I have it, but not sure that I want to put it back. Maybe replace with white? I go out solo with my dog, sometimes with my teen kids or a friend. Like to boondock, but am not power or water intensive. I love snow/winter so will get a generator eventually. Not sure about how much I would use solar, but am interested to hear how helpful small arrays are. The tv is gone from my trailer, but screens aren’t really my thing and I LOVE the old sound system interface 😂 Here’s what I posted on my repair guy’s Facebook: Lance Lacko at Private Reserve Trailer Repair in Sheridan, CA is better than all the king’s horses and all the king’s men! He put my egg back together again 😁💕🎉. I’m so over the moon in love with my Oliver! Some of you may have seen pictures of Hull 25’s previous existence as an adventure rig. After months of logistics and west coast road trips to collect and deliver parts, she is a trailer again!! My first adventure to bring her home is in the books, can’t wait for more.

Being a former big rig driver, I was taught that YOU are responsible for the clearance, regardless of the signs. Experience showed me that those measurements are typically the low points, whether to the side of the bridge or within the tunnel. However, don't assume that they update the signs when they've done road maintenance (like resurfacing). I have seen signs under my 13-6 that I determined I had plenty of room (but was sweating bullets nonetheless) and bridges it said I'd clear, but I wouldn't try. Consider getting a retractable pole and mark the max height of the trailer on it. Stop and poke around when in doubt...60, 75, 85 grand is a big personal gamble! Safe journies.

Update, if not much of one: The RV park does not own the wind turbine, the adjacent business does. He bought the property with the turbine installed and said he doesn't know anything about it. (?) I had a lengthy conversation about this with a full time boater over the weekend. They had two different wind turbines on their boat and echoed what was said earlier in this thread: that they're expensive, noisy, and not a good value (bang for the buck as it were.)

We are always curious about payload/cargo rating of the tow vehicle because it does affect “what it’ll haul”. Tongue weight of the trailer counts towards the tow vehicle payload number. And a lot of people are unaware that they have exceeded their payload limit with the trailer hooked up, driver and passenger(s) weight, any installed accessories on the tow vehicle like a bed liner, bed cover, or bed cap, a toolbox, a loaded cooler, camping gear, etc. all loaded up. It’s surprising how low the payload number is on some vehicles, even some 1/2 ton pickup trucks. An Elite II tongue weight plus a driver and 1 passenger are ~1,000 lbs. of payload. Even an Elite 1 with driver and passenger is ~750 to 800 lbs of payload. But that Subaru Ascent looks like a pretty good match for an Elite I.

I’ve been towing a lot of years and a lot of miles with the 2” ball. No horror stories here, either with the Andersen (around 70,000 miles) or without (around 15,000 miles). If I was ordering a trailer today I would probably go with the bigger ball, just for the added robustness and, as Steve says, the cool factor. Mike

As I recall, the 2" Bulldog has a 7000 pound towing limit, which matches the GVWR of the Elite 2, so it's not really necessary to go to a bigger ball. You're still limited to 7000 pounds by the (2) 3500 pound axles anyway. The main advantage of switching to a 2 5/16" ball is if you already use that size ball for another trailer and don't want to buy another tow bar and ball for your vehicle.

Thanks! I’m so excited to finally have my own Oliver and love her story.

I have the Xtend & Climb 12' Pro Series ladder that SeaDawg links to above. I bought it for house painting. I decided not to bring it with me because it can slip on smooth surfaces, and because it does not meet the stepladder requirement I have for getting to extended parts of the awning. It is also awkward to climb when not fully extended as some of the rungs will be together making for one large step (or a heavy top end). It requires a top rung cover without which the ladder top can be abrasive. For traveling, I purchased a Gorilla Ladder: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-Ladders-14-ft-Reach-MPXA-Aluminum-Multi-Position-Ladder-with-300-lbs-Load-Capacity-Type-IA-Duty-Rating-GLMPXA-14/310731754?ITC=AUC-131319-23-12140 The price appears to have gone up in the six months since I bought it. I used it to get markings off of the awning and to clean the outside of the Ollie. I have not yet tried to use it to climb onto the roof. I found that having the stepladder capability really helped when used near the hitch and bumper. It splits into two lighter short stepladders if needed, or one taller stepladder, and can be adjusted for use on an inclined surface. As an extension ladder it has a 14' reach. This ladder stores on its side under the tonneau cover in my F250. It does take more space than the Xtend & Climb, measuring at 43"x21.2"x8.5" (HxWxD). Load is 300 lbs. It has a different storage requirement than the one Mountainman198 indicates above (shorter but thicker and possibly wider at its base). Weight is the same at 24 lbs. There is a longer version but I got this one because it fits under the tonneau on its side. Mike

….aaaand the adventure rig has been turned back into a trailer! 😁

I figure that my solar panel “curb feeler” will save the hull itself. So, maybe $5,000 to repair that? As long as it doesn't wipe off the air conditioner too. I have a 14 foot tall door on my RV bay, the first year that I had the Ollie, I used to just raise the door part way, to save wear and tear on the door springs. It worked great until the time I misjudged the height. As I was pulling forward the front of the hull caught the bottom edge of the door and trashed two full panels. I backed up and unhitched and kicked the door more or less into shape so I could close it again. The overhead door guy was unimpressed. He has seen everything. The repair was around $800, if I recall correctly. I think my wife was not amused. The Ollie damage was confined to the sewer waste cap, which ended up on the floor, and some light scuffing on the gelcoat. Cost of that repair was less than $5. Ollies are tough, as long as you stop in time (as soon as you hear that horrible SCRIIIIIITCH!) Now I always raise the door to its full height. Back when I used to ride bikes and carry them on the roof of my car, I would tie a bright orange surveyors tape flag on the garage door, to remind me to not drive in yet. That worked well. John Davies Spokane WA

I went a different route and am glad I did. The ladder I carry in the bed of my truck is a multi-position ladder and can be used as a stepladder, straight ladder or leaning ladder. The transition is done with one hand actuating a large grip latch. The ladder is made of fiberglas, supports 375 lbs and only weighs 24 lbs. I am tall so I use it as a stepladder which is quite stable, never touches the trailer and allows me to reach nearly everything on top of my Ollie (washing and waxing the roof included). If a person is shorter, opening it to be a straight ladder would allow you to lean it against the hull (with padding of course). When I bought y ladder Home Depot had the same model for less and Lowe's price matched it (think it was $127 plus tax). https://www.lowes.com/pd/Werner-13ft-Reach-Height3N1-Multi-Position-Ladder-375lb-Load-Capacity-13ft-Type-IAA/1003163580

This is most excellent, if you want to understand why lithium batteries are so cool. "You have just sold your first-born into slavery, remortgaged the house, and bought yourself a lithium-ion battery! Now you want to know how to take care of your precious new purchase: How to best charge lithium-iron batteries, how to discharge them, and how to get the maximum life out of your lithium-ion batteries. This article will explain the do’s and don’ts." How to Find Happiness With LiFePO4 (Lithium-Ion) Batteries John Davies Spokane WA EDIT: That is a pdf that doesn't print well. I made a Pages doc out of it, that can be printed and added to your Ollie records, if you like. JD How to Find Happiness With LiFePO4 (Lithium-Ion) Batteries - Solacity .pages EDIT 05/16/23. Thanks to Jim and Francis for converting the article to a PDF: How to Find Happiness With LiFePO4 (Lithium-Ion) Batteries

Hi All We ordered an Oliver Elite II with a delivery date of September, 2022. After reading the "horror stories" on another thread pertaining to the 2" Anderson WDH and recommendations by some forum member to upgrade to a 2 5/16" . I reached out to Oliver and for an additional $250.00 they agreed the upgrade the 2" to the 2 5/16" Bulldog coupler ($800 for the WDH and $250 for the 2 5/16" Bulldog coupler. Below is a portion of the updated Purchase Order. I just wanted to thank those in the Oliver forum who made the posts about this issue with the 2" Bulldog coupler. Also, it is now an option for 2023. Dale Hitch • Hitch Option: 2-5/16" Bulldog Hitch with Andersen No-Sway Hitch $1,050.00

Yes siree bob a rooski! I got that that there BIG ole bulldog coupler. I expect to be attracting buckle bunnies and bulldog bunnies... and all sorts of others as we all stand around and admire that ginormous 2 5/16" monster coupler. I figure if everything else breaks off the back end... I'll still have my coupler and we can just replace the rest. I'll never forget the day I first saw a big honkin locomotive... it had a 2 5/16" coupler. I knew I had to have one too. I fully expect I'll need the wife to call ahead and warn the campgrounds that we are coming in with the big one! (I hope I don't end up regretting having fun with this post! Tell me I can delete in an emergency?)

This is a nonissue for all trailers manufactured in the past 4 years or better.

I do not know why they changed hitches, but my best guess is that both hitches were promotional items provided free of charge. I do believe that everyone on YouTube with more than 100 videos, is doing it for promotional or income related purposes. And I don't remember ever seeing a "truth in advertising statement" on YouTube. Mossey

I’m not sure why I’m always so curious about payload. Same thing with useful load…if someone lists their plane for sale I could care less what color it is. I want to know what it’ll haul!

I’ve towed race trailers, cargo trailers, boat trailers, and equipment haulers. Expensive to cheap trailers I’ve never seen a 2 inch ball on a 7k trailer. Too many cheap 6k and under components for tow vehicles are in circulation along with clueless owners. Having said that I’m going to pick up my trailer with a 2 inch ball, label me a hypocrite.

I forgot to mention that when I used it to clean the top of the Mojo, I rested the extension ladder on its rubber feet against the side. It did not leave any marks or scratches, but I do plan to use extension ladder covers in the future: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Werner-Extension-Ladder-Covers-2-Pack-AC19-2/100662613

Or, You could just post the weight carrying capacity.

Would love to - even went out and took a photo. Unfortunately I can't figure out a way to attach a photo currently. Have tried three different image hosting sites as well as direct upload and nothing seems to be working. Will try again later.

I carried a TPMS unit with me to install at the factory. Rolled out to the campsite without doing it. Decided that losing fingers in 28 degree rain was not worth installing them on the trip. Risk of losing fingers vs risk of brand new tire blowing out came down on the fingers side of the equation. Possibly I have an unreasoned faith in the tire manufacturers. Installed the TPMS in 75 degree temps on the driveway today 🙂 Fortunately, traffic on the way back was calm so no crash stops. Focused on burnishing the brakes on the Ollie, light to medium braking. Eyesight kicked in a couple of times and I saw the indicator on the Redarc go red, so I know that the wiring harness is correct and the automatic brakes are being relayed to the trailer. I have, had not pulled the trigger yet, but this sounds like a good excuse. I will tell Rebecca that "John said I need one." 🙂 I need to verify this, but my understanding is that the Subaru factory harness on the Ascent does not support pushing charge power back to the trailer. Unlike a truck, the alternator is not sized for charging loads. However, this is based on reading the Ascent forums as well as the owners manuals, which can be a bit contradictory at times. Will do some work with the old multi-meter and try to update on the charging. On this trip it was raining and grey all the time, and I know that we got to our second night with the batteries at 80% after running the fridge all day. So definitely something I need to get a better understanding on as we want to be able to do some light boondocking in the near future. Reset is equipped with the 2022 Lithium Plus package for the Elite I, so two Lithionics batteries and the rooftop solar. Will be reading all the back posts in the forum on care and feeding for those. I had a Forrester with the CVT when we started looking at our Happer Camper HC1 back four years ago. The HC1 is about 990 lbs dry and likely 1200k the way we had it kitted out. When I discussed it with our Subaru tech his comment was "I'm in service, not sales. However, I would not recommend anything more that utility towing with the Forester. The Outback has the CVT setup properly for small travel towing. I would not be surprised to have problems on a Forester CVT with that load." Good advice is invaluable. We replaced the Forester with an Outback. Lots of trips over four years, including a Dallas, New Mexico, Colorado, across Death Valley, Los Angeles, Phoenix, and Arizona trip. That one made liberal use of the paddle shifters in and out of Phoenix and through the Durango area. No issues with the CVT, traded the Outback with 100k miles in great condition on the current Ascent. You are absolutely correct - being on top of the fluid changes is key. I am one of those people who has the dealership do all my adjustments and fluid changes so they keep the Subaru approved stuff in and I always discuss the "suggested" service bulletins so they are generally keeping up with the hidden ones as well as the public ones. Thus the relationship with my Subaru tech and the reason he felt comfortable shooting straight with me. Fun fact - my son currently drives my older 2004 Forester (not the one mentioned above but it's predecessor) with over 360k miles. 🙂 Pre-CVT of course. Now - Tow - Haul setting. That's a bit of black magic on the Ascent, lots of people have lots of opinions. You can't use anti sway hitch on an Ascent since it has special anti sway capabilities built in that are activated when it detects a connected 7-pin. No idea what else is activated when that 7-pin goes in, however just from "feeling" the way it changed after picking up the trailer my gut tells me that they are tweaking the shifting and power ratios. Love the questions, makes me think through things and possibly gives me questions of my own. Will post more photos - after I get the road salt and grime off of Reset. Appreciate the fix on the photo - I need to play with photo posting on this forum. iPhone photos and the new heic format are a PIT* when working from the laptop. And now - without starting a new post... Of course everything was dormant grass wise, I don't know when they laid it down but I don't think it got much time to get settled before the winter. The worst thing was the drainage around the pad - I thanked them for the "lakefront" camping spot (Slot #1) for our overnight stay. I looked out of the trailer around midnight the little lights that mark the edge of the pad were glowing underwater at the rear of the pad. In the morning one had broken half way free and was floating. These are the stock wheels for the Ascent Limited (think they are the same on the Touring but not sure), I do like the way they look. When I first started looking at the Ascent platform I felt it was a bit clunky, but have come to really appreciate the details of "Blue Moose" in our first 4k miles. Thanks John for all the great questions - I don't think I missed any 🙂 Kevin

Wanted to provide my experiences with our first trip home from the factory with 2022 Subaru Ascent Limited “Blue Moose” and Oliver Elite I Hull #1030 “Reset.” Your mileage and experience may vary from mine. Note: I’m missing some numbers here (intended to stop at a scale and get weights) so those will either be added to the comments or edited directly into this post at a later date. The Tow Vehicle Blue Moose is a 2022 Model Year Limited trim line in the 8 seat (middle bench seat) version. We went with the Limited for the middle bench seat as we anticipated it being a cargo platform more than a seat. We opted for the factory towing package, which includes pre-wired 4 and 7 pin receivers as well as an under dash pre-wired brake controller plug in. Rated towing capacity is 5,000 lbs on the 2 inch hitch receiver. We opted not to purchase the Subaru hitch and ball, instead opting for an aftermarket hitch and ball. Brake Controller I installed a Redarc Tow Pro Elite V3 unit behind the dash secured with zip ties and automotive adhesive tape to the beam behind the steering wheel. Unfortunately, I did not take photos but I may go back and get those and add to a separate article. The Redarc unit stock cable matches up perfectly with the Subaru brake controller harness provided with the factory tow package – connect color to color. On this trip I ran the controller in proportional mode at setting 3 – will likely move to 5 on the next run. This likely deserves it’s own writeup and I would appreciate collaboration with other on the forum regarding your setup, testing and experience with the Redarc. Towing Setup After reading a large number of different opinions on hitch height, I opted for a 2-inch drop / 4-inch rise hitch and installed it in the 4-inch rise position. This was anticipating a 2-inch sink once Reset was connected. However, it turned out that even with all the items in the back of the ascent that would eventually move to the trailer, the 4-inch rise was way too high and we flipped it to the 2-inch drop side during delivery. Pulling out of the bay we were slightly nose down on the trailer, however once we moved the cold food, the trailer furnishings, and the cooking gear the weight shifted and the tow vehicle and trailer rode almost precisely level. I think that once we put our normal camping load in we may end up needing to move to an effectively “flat” hitch. I am planning to add the new Weigh-Safe Ball with an integrated scale to get more precise measurements of tongue weight. Another future edit. Towing Experience We set up our return trip using the 3 hours / 300 miles guidelines, even though we had towed our prior trailer much longer days in the past. Our goal was to be able to work through the launch and landing process carefully, and then have a shorter drive each day to learn the feel of the trailer. The first day (Hohenwald to Memphis) I limited speed to 65 mph max as that was the max on our previous setup. Stability was rock solid, engine RPM’s drifted in the high 1k to low 3k depending on the hills. We had no issues on the “back-roads” section between Hohenwald and Lexington, handling both the curves and ups and downs of the hills. We were driving in intermittent rain at slightly above freezing temperatures and had no traction or steering problems. The engine spent no significant time above 2500 RPM at the mid 40’s speeds. Once we pulled onto the highway, I brought it up to 65 mph and allowed the Eyesight driven adaptive cruse control to take over. The Ascent has a tendency to gear high in Adaptive cruse, generally adding 300 to 500 RPM onto what a careful human foot can achieve. Engine RPM settled into the 2-3k band with the instant gas milage reading settling around 14 MPG. Based on mileage calculation filling up at the fuel pump, the tank average was 12.92, however there was some significant idling time with warming up the car and also having it running while doing pre-launch activity in the morning. Second day was Memphis to Little Rock. Temperatures were cold and we spent some time during the day with a crosswind. Again, the Elite I was rock steady. At about the midway point I decided to start edging up the speed, first to 70 then to 75. Making measured steady passes of big trucks while towing was a new experience from our prior unit, which due to being light would get very tail happy above 60. Engine RPM drifted higher as I moved up to 75, settling in at 3,500 for the majority of the day and breaking the 4k line on the occasional hill pass. Even at 75 in the light crosswind Reset followed true, not giving any indication of wanting to move side to side. Display MPG dropped to the mid 13 mid, and tank fill calculation was 13.13 for the day. Final day we decided to make the Little Rock to Dallas leg a single run. The day was a repeat of the prior day – most of the day spent between 70 and 75 where permitted and display MPG in the low 13s given the longer stretches above 70. Tank fill MPG was 13.18 for the day. Observations The Ascent + Elite I combination has me impressed. If you need a “daily driver” that is a car frame and want something with a quiet comfortable ride, the Ascent made for an excellent long distance vehicle. It steers like a much smaller vehicle, and offers a solid feel both with and without a towing load. I will update this with better weight, hitch height information, and future impressions as we go forward, but my hope is this this info will help others considering this equipment combination. Safe travels all! 20220224_143014929_iOS.jpg

Ditto to this. I don’t need the Andersen hitch with my F-250, so I’m using a simple 2” hitch ball (1-1/4” shank) with a rating of 10,000 lbs., and a ball mount with a rating of 18,000 lbs. The truck is rated to tow 12,600 lbs, with a tongue weight limit of 1,250 lbs. dead weight, 3,334 lbs. payload capacity. So the “weakest link” in the whole system is the 2” Bulldog coupler itself which is only rated to 7,000 lbs. I’ve been considering upgrading to the larger 2-5/16” Bulldog, just to have more safety margin, but so far no issues with ball wear or coupler wear at all. I do grease the ball before each trip. CURT 40056 Stainless Steel Trailer Hitch Ball, 10,000 lbs, 2-Inch Diameter, 1-1/4 x 2-5/8-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08557RHP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NQQ3BH5FK65T43Z8VHQT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Draw-Tite 45322 3" Drop Ball Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JID6U6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_D5XDYD3CHP0KZYCFB0ER?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

For those who like to live on the ragged edge like me, with a 2 inch ball, try to purchase a ball mount and ball that utilize the 1 1/4 inch shank. That pretty much guarantees the weight rating will be 10k or more.

I agree,, @mossemi. A lot of youtubers and influencers get free product in exchange for reviews. I watched a video today from fast lane, clearly sponsored by gen y hitch, but they did say so at the beginning. The better ones let us know they're sponsored. Some don't, and others have no sponsors. Somewhere in the comments, Mr Truck said this, though he didn't specify what he considered to be light or heavy trailers: Yes, I'm a nerd, and I read comments.

We purchased a collapsible and found it too lengthy and too heavy. We returned it and got a shorter, lighter one that we can use to reach the Ollie roof. If we need to get up on the roof, we'll use taller ladders at home. Charlie.

(Referring to the 1485 lb. payload capacity of a Subaru Ascent). That number exceeds, by 50 lbs ., the specified payload capacity of my 2019 Tundra Double Cab 5.7L with standard bed and towing package. It is truly remarkable for a unibody SUV.

A quick search for that Ascent Limited shows 1485 pounds "as delivered". I can't vouch for the accuracy, but it is a pretty decent figure for a unibody SUV.. John davies Spokane WA

The larger ball does not wear nearly as drastically as the 2” one when the chains are set tight. I am not sure that can be called a horror story….. but it is very disappointing if it happens to your hitch. (The real horror is the old style Andersen that locks up and shrieks like demons when it gets wet. They did fix that with the latest sealed versions.) For a part that retails for about $90 - the same as the smaller one - I think that $250 fee seems quite inflated. Oliver probably pays $50 wholesale, the rest is labor. It would only take 30 minutes or less to replace if the holes in the Bulldog are pre-drilled. I suspect that Oliver is resisting installing these at the time when the frame is built. Does anyone know the reason? If I were ordering the big coupler, I would definitely check that box, but I would also complain about the excessive cost to Sales. And I would ask for MY removed part so I could sell it. BTW, if you are going to refer to other threads, please post the link, since most members probably have no idea what you mean. Dale C, is this what you mean? https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2418-fyi-andersen-wd-hitch-ball-locking-up-or-load-noise/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3483-how-to-upgrade-the-bulldog-coupler-and-andersen-hitch-to-2-516/ I will finish by a comment about the Fast Lane tow videos. Those guys used an Andersen hitch for a quite while, and claimed that it was wonderful. Now they use a different brand with steel spring bars.I would like to know why they stopped, does anyone have the answer? John Davies Spokane WA

No worries. I, too, would like to hear some comments from folks who have used them a year or three. Ladders are getting more expensive all the time. We watch for black friday specials, if we can wait.

Yes, a lot was removed to make the adventure rig. Axle was removed and the front portion of the trailer (tongue and everything on it) was actually cut off the rest of the frame 😱I was able to track down the original pieces and get them from a previous owner through these forums! The seller and previous owner were great and supportive of me putting her back together, but it was quite the journey!

Not sure what is going wrong with posting pics, but I do know that some pics that I would like to post from the internet will not transfer to My Pictures on my computer, they go into File Explorer, but can't get them out a pics. trainman

Look at "add files", at the bottom of the page.

That's Subaru does a very good job pulling your new Elite I, sounds like you have a good combination between the two. We don't get a lot of info on pulling the Elite I on the forum, so glad you posted this for new owners of the Elite I to see. Sounds like your set for some camping fun. trainman

This is perfect. The info on the hitch setup and the Weigh Safe Ball with integratred scale is particularly helpful. My Ascent is the Premium Trim level but all the other Ascent details are the same as you describe. I am now much more confident in it's use. Thanks! Ron

Nice write up. Seems your set up fits well with smaller Elite. I share the concern over braking - I would give the system a good test - just to ensure the worst case is manageable. Towing at 70 with a larger vehicle is much different than with a car based platform. Good travels RB

How are the brakes, are they working properly yet? Have you tried a really hard stop? Got TPMS? I am glad this has worked out so well, but you should slow down. A tire failure on a single axle trailer at 75 mph is going to be horrendous. Have you considered an OBD2 monitor so you can see what is happening inside the engine, CVT and alternator? https://www.scangauge.com/x-gauge-commands/2019-subaru-ascent/ How is the trailer charging, is that working? Does Reset have lithiums? I have owned a couple of older Roos and I would be extra extra cautious about your engine and drivetrain durability, be very aggressive about fluid changes and I suggest full synthetics, if the Subaru OEM ones are not that type. My sister tows a 1200 pound braked teardrop trailer with a 2015 Forester CVT, without paddle shifters. I am waiting for a report that she has crashed going down some steep Oregon grade. Do you use yours at all? How well do they help? Is there a Tow/ Haul setting? Subaru trannies are fairly reliable, better than the old automatics, but they are not repairable, they have to be replaced. And out of warranty that is going to be $$$: https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2015-transmission-cvt-failure-report.808670/ Sorry for all the questions, you are a pioneer here, I think, with your Subaru. Please post pictures! I fixed the one you posted earlier. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I’m impressed that you could return over 13mpg with the engine holding 3.5-4k rpm’s! Thanks for the detailed report, could you provide the payload capacity shown on your door jam sticker?

Hook up to a loaded trailer weighing about 5400 lbs and pull it around and see what you think. That should give you some idea. What I found is that numbers on paper or computer screen don’t take into account real life driving scenarios.

Of course you can use the port, for a small 12v wind generator, probably 200 to 400 watts. The fuse on the zamp port, I think, is 10 amps. Just like solar, you'll need a controller, specifically one that's made for wind turbines. We looked into a helical wind turbine when we built our home, to supplement the solar. To get it high enough in the air to do anything more than "make a statement " (and actually generate a meaningful amount of power) would not have been possible with our municipal codes. But, that research was done over 10 years ago, and advances have been made in turbine design. We just decided to up the solar, and eventually add battery backup. It's worked great for us With our sailboat, we've anchored and docked next to boats with wind generators, and absolutely hated the noise. Newer systems may be more quiet. Idk. If you get one, make sure you can brake it in high winds, without lowering the mast. Make sure it's worth it, actually, in $$ . I'd suggest you speak to someone at Arizona wind and sun, to start with. They sell quality usa made gear . Whatever you decide, check wind maps, and make sure your wind gen kicks in at levels of at least average wind. Many people think they have a lot of wind, but many wind gens don't kick in before 10 to 14 mph winds. And if they do, output is measly. As far as portable, you own the property. Consider making it a permanent install, in high clean air, imo. As much as I love clean energy, I've not (yet) found anything I'd take traveling, and risk annoying my neighbors. We have 600 watts of solar on our boat. It's silent, always. Fixed solar on the trailer is 400 watts , plus 200 watts portable. Helical and vertical axxis are more quiet, but in our old research , less efficient. I can run a 60 db gen for an hour or two. 65 db of a turbine, whenever the wind kicks up, would not make me happy. I'm no longer "young," but my hearing is still good. If you do decide to be the pioneer, and find a good system, I will truly look forward to your posts . We've also looked at micro hydro generation, as we have several streams on our camping property. Another (mostly silent) thought. Then again, you could build your own wind generator, and try it out. Here's one: https://offgridworld.com/simple-diy-200-watt-wind-turbine-built-from-household-materials/ I'm a huge fan of clean energy. Wind included.

Got on the ladder this afternoon to clean our solar panels before heading to NM tomorrow. Three knobs were tight. One moved about a quarter of an inch. All four have lock washers. I'll be checking every time I'm up on the ladder.

After picking ours up, we went south and poked around for a month or so. We went up some rough ' goat paths' , camped on mountain tops, traveled a lot of dirt rough roads, and even traveled rougher paved highways. For lack of initial load up room we left our collapsible ladder home. And then headed home to Maine. Turns out we never needed it. Checked our knobs at home and they are still tight. We could always back up the tow vehicle and use that for a ladder I guess if we ever needed it. We have left the ladder home since and have never regretted it. Have a safe trip home to Ma. and may the roughest part of your trip be paying the tolls for the extra two axles... P.S. I have found that if you really need a ladder, and fellow campers happen to have one, they are more than happy to lend it. They also will give you a helping hand. You can meet some wonderful people on the road and share some interesting stories around a campfire or picnic table. All they need is a friendly smile and a handshake...

Our forums have been such a great success for our 17' owners that we are looking forward to adding new topic matter for the 22'er as it is seen more and more out on the highways of North America. So, 22' owners don't be bashful ! Jump right on in here and tell us about your experiences ! Our forums moderators Steve and Tali, posting as SCUBARX, have a new 22'er on the way so we are looking forward to hearing from them. Their past posts about mods and so forth have been a pleasure for our readers, as well as helpful to info seekers. As you may suspect, our forums may well become more and more of a information database than a chat room for members. Our forums have been changing ever since the FACEBOOK OLIVER TRAVEL TRAILERS page became ever so popular. Here is a link to the FACEBOOK GROUP: https://www.facebook.com/groups/306440109482944/ if you haven't joined the group yet, just go to the link and send a join request. We will be glad to have you there ! Oliver ownership not required.

Marc, welcome to the group! You'll find several different opinions on gas grills. I have a Weber Q1000 and several others also have a Weber Q series grill. They don't work directly off a propane quick connect out of the box. It takes about 10 minutes to modify it to work, you have to remove the regulator and put on a quick connect, parts are easy to find. This was last month in Joshua Tree NP, California - got the Weber fired up for breakfast. Mike

The look of the new forum is more flash, and modern. I'm finding it a little slowgoing at first, but most processes are fairly intuitive. I created a new account today and found it quite easy. The IT folks have obviously been hard at work. Now, back to having some fun sharing camping stories and info. Sherry

Man, oh man ! Do I ever like this new look ! When I joined these forums in Jan of 2008 I was among the first three doing so. though it was pretty simple back then, it was something that our new owners were really wanting and needing. And, the growth of these forums has reflected that time and again.