Leaderboard

Here is another option from Zarcor. It is an OceanAir roller shade, like you would find in an Airstream. We wanted to make sure we had a full, unobstructed view from the window, when the shade was open. It also works as a grab handle, when closing the screen. Here is the part information if anyone is intersted. CSH-3-W - OceanAir CABINshade, White - 21 5/8" x 23 5/8" x 24 1/8. It is a custom size. Andrew

I agree and understand all those points. It is hard to tell someone "its a good deal" because most of us do not know the other persons situation. Everyone has different goals, are at different stages of our lives, and in different financial situations. We felt for us at this time it fit what we wanted to do now and in the future. We have no regrets and look forward to the next 15-20 years traveling and hopefully meeting several of you. I do think some people are missing the value of the "Oliver Family" which includes everyone at Oliver and the owners. It is hard to put a dollar value on service and folks on this forum who have been willing to help me and answer my questions. I only hope I can pay it forward now.

John beat me to it but I will add this. We just picked up our Elite ll on July 22. The base price for ours was $65K. So they have only went up $11K from 2018. I will add we happily paid what was asked for. After reading posts on here for over 4 years and talking with folks at Oliver I believe you get way more than just a travel trailer with Oliver. Just my opinion.

The base LE2 Twin was $48,500 in 2017. The new 2023 Twin and Standard will be $73,500. That is a $25,000 increase in SEVEN years. That increase does not equate to real numbers because 2022 dollars are 16% lower than 2017 dollars in actual purchase power, due to inflation. You can’t compare apples to oranges. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7141-new-trailer-pricing-2023-le2-vs-2017-le2/ Let’s keep our numbers straight, please. There have been small annual increases but almost always they have included some additional standard features. It is only during the pandemic that it got “out of hand” due to supply delays and cost increases. And you don’t have to buy that $16k (!!!) lithium 640 AH package. John Davies Spokane WA

Hummm... maybe I should install my windows upside down. With the weep holes at the top, they'll be less likely to get plugged up.

I have mixed feelings about this issue that highlight the difference between micro and macro economic analysis. We take delivery of a 2022 Elite II in November, with a base price of $65K, and a much higher total price with the options we have selected. From a "micro" perspective, we would, personally, prefer to pay less. But we are grateful we are not paying for a 2023 model! The "macro" view is explained by simple supply/demand analysis and adjustment for inflation. The referenced price increases are quite predictable given the surge in RV demand caused by the pandemic, and the inflation surge of the past year+, which has been driven by increased material and labor costs. Given these factors, one could argue that Olivers have been underpriced for the market from 2016 through 2022. Thus, from a "macro" perspective, we are paying less than true "market value" for our 2022 Elite II.

There are those of us that will remember Oliver’s ill fated foray into building a more “affordable” trailer. A steel frame, cheap plastic hardware, no standard equipment like a furnace or an air conditioner. The Sport, they called it. They built a single example and even at about the same price as a new SOB, it sat unsold at the factory for 5 or 6 years. Nobody seriously considering an Oliver wants that and anyway, there’s already a stripped down Oliver. It’s called a Casita.

Initially we never had any problem with the bathroom fan cover on our 2019 Oliver popping open when traveling. But then the gasket on the fan cover came loose after about a year, and during annual service, Oliver replaced the gasket with a VERY thick gasket material (about 3/8” thick), so that the cover didn’t fully seat properly in the full “down” detent position, and that caused the cover to start popping open when traveling. I’ve since replaced the gasket on the cover with a thinner gasket material (3/16” thick x 3/8” wide exterior vinyl foam weatherstripping from Lowe’s) and now the cover pulls down into the correct detent/closed position (can actually feel it snap into place) and stays closed when traveling.

Not sure where you got your information of $50K in 2020 for an Elite II, but that is not correct. (Maybe it was the Elite I price.) Looking at my Oliver trailer receipt, I can tell you that for my 2018 Oliver Elite II, the base price was $54,100,00, not including the main options I have on my trailer. Therefore a 2020 Elite II must have been higher and therefor your % increase is also not correct.

50K in 2020 seems low to me…

My BC friends carry "bear bangers" when in grizzly country. They think they're better than either spray or a revolver. I think sometimes some of them carry a revolver but not typically. I don't carry spray in black bear areas. The only documented attacks on humans in WA state in a long time that I know of have all either been a result of hunters shooting but not killing bears or unleashed pets running back to owners with bears following. I have a friend who found himself between a mama and two cubs in a berry patch across the trail up on Desolation Peak in the North Cascades. He sang gently to her as he backed away from being inbetween them, and continued down the trail with his heart racing. My encounters have all involved them running quickly away, though in one of those the bear sprinted down the trail right at me before darting off to my right down a game trail he/she obviously knew was there. That was stimulating - this encounter btw was on the West Coast Trail which runs between Port Renfrew and Bamfield on Vancouver Island. For sure the ones that have become habituated are riskier due to their comfort level being around humans but I think that risk is more manageable than the risk from grizz.

@AndrewK, and it still looks great! Mossey

I would also like to see a “basic” trailer that would allow a more affordable Oliver. As long as they are selling everything they can make with all the bells and whistles I don’t see that happening. Mike

You are welcome. Having our Ollie here at home I can usually get a photo to help out of someone needs one. It certainly provides solid privacy when using the shower, blocking out the hot sun, sleeping, or having a little quiet dinner at the dinette. It’s a pretty easy straight forward install. Unfortunately my original glass was really glued in solid and did not just pop out of the frame. So I replaced the frame and glass. It’s all Topgun2’s fault, he turned us onto this mod. 😄

As far as the price increases, I don't think Oliver is jacking stuff up, or gouging. Fiberglass is a petroleum product. Raw materials have doubled. I posted a chart somewhere last year. But, you can look for yourself. Everything else has gone up as well. Salaries, insurance, you name it. The Oliver family is an honorable family, imo. During the last downturn, they kept virtually everyone in the plant employed, in other roles, even though they had to close the trailer line. They never let us "orphan" owners down, if we needed help, parts, repairs. Someone always helped. I'm a small town, country girl by upbringing, and that just speaks volumes to me. You don't find that a lot. By all means, shop around. Everything else has gone up, too. My elite 1, in 2008, was probably slightly more than half the price of today's elite 1. I get that. But, what's included in a base trailer today is phenomenal. I really wish they'd roll it back a bit. Include fewer items that should, imo, be options. Many people don't need, or even want, what's in the base package. And, some non-techie folks shouldn't want it. Just my opinion. Happy to still camp in my 15th season, 2008 Elite 1. If our daughter wants it, it will be hers, when we're gone. Hopefully, decades from now. We'll see what life brings. For now, all is good.

Is there anything displayed on the surge protector readout in the attic cabinet?

After all these years of hiking and camping in places where bears are common, I've seen lots of damaged garbage cans and coolers and many other things that proved bears were around, but I had never actually seen one. Boy, did that change in a hurry at Lake Powhatan campground in Asheville, NC a few days ago! I had one leg out of the trailer headed to pick up my hat that I had left on the table next to my bike when I saw one!! I had my iPhone in hand and snapped a shot while stepping quickly back inside with a heart rate that was probably looking like I had just finished a marathon. 🙂 But wait, the story doesn't end there. I'm peeking at the bear through my door window (I have the Zarcor you can see through) and here comes two cubs right behind her. I stick my arm back out the door and snap this picture: Wow. Even though mama isn't very large by bear standards, I'd not want to get between her and the cute cubs. I had just gotten done riding my bike and I had my bear spray on my belt as I always do when hiking or riding in bear country. I did not have either on me stepping out of the trailer thinking I was grabbing my hat and coming right back in. Lesson learned!

Yeah my friends have used them in the wilderness not in town. And they’ve indeed had cause to use them at least a few times each. One did have a story of poor aim, where they overshot and the bang happened on the far side of the bear. Fortunately the grizz decided to just take off in a sideways direction rather than coming right at my friend but he said it made him spend some time practicing doing a calm careful aiming of the device for any future encounters. My understanding is that they’re not legal in much of grizzly country in the US anyway. But aim is an issue with spray and revolvers too. You can also overshoot with spray. And as a revolver toting guy we met in Montana’s Bob Marshall Wilderness said to me when I asked about the revolver, you’re better off NOT carrying one unless you’re trained and you practice with it regularly - hewas a local who also did elk hunts out there and had a great story of a night where they all hovered on the outskirts of their camp while a grizz tried to get at the elk they’d shot and had hung high in camp. The bear never came at any of them so of course they didn’t shoot it. Sounded like a rough night.

Krunch got gas at BUC-EE’S near Valdosta this morning, $3.19. Mossey

@AndrewK I really like the roller shade! I also prefer an unobstructed view, this is a good solution! Thank you for the info and photos.

Seadawg is exactly, right we have an abundance of bears. Here in East TN I know bear hunters and resource officers. They all say the black bear population has exploded all over the Appalachians. The people population has also increased. Encounters are much more prevalent. In our hikes, especially in years past, we've had bears cross our path very close on two occasions deep in the woods. Once one stepped out of a laurel thicket and almost bumped into my wife with my toddler daughter on her back. My wife froze, and fortunately it scared the poor bear, who was I think an adolescent, as much or more than us. He ran off barking like a dog. We just hoped momma wasn't close. This was a time when bears were fewer and not as accustomed to humans and the food they carry. Now even hikers in the deep woods and AT are having serious problems with bears. I totally agree with John Davies, I always now take my spray and where I can my weapon. Especially these last few weeks, the local media have focused on the issues you all have described concerning human contact, feeding, carelessness etc. Now it's leading, more often, to the death of the bear instead of relocation. Now the slogan is " A fed bear is a dead bear". Sad.

Agree 100%. The Olivers are not trying to take advantage of anybody. They are making a quality product and selling at a fair price. I know small business owners here in south Texas that are having a very challenging time hiring reliable employees and are often operating with fewer employees than they should have. I’m sure Hohenwald is no different. Mike

Thanks, John. They didn’t work quite as well as expected. I was going to use them right side up, but figured with their crowned shape and knobs, the A/C might slip off. So, we flipped them over, which created another problem. The A/C unit has screw adjustable feet, which didn’t coincide with the hollow spacing on the back of the MaxTrax, so it slipped one way or the other. So we used four leveling blocks for a stable footprint. Now we’ll know for the next time. It also filled with water, as you might expect. (Writing this from a motel in Lexington Kentucky. Makers Mark tour tomorrow, Mammoth Cave Thursday, Oliver Travel Trailers on Fridayyyyyy!!! 🤗 )

Yes, we do! So helpful! The other brand that folks installed couldn't be operated from the closed screen door. Useless, imo. Who wants to open the door, to operate the blind? Thank you, very much. I could see operating your blind from the side, and squinting out.

Lot of good replies on this subject, but I will throw in one more not often discussed. Winter camping and cold weather is relative, we have many owners here who live in the deep south or there about and having grown up down there myself I can tell you with no uncertainty winter camping down there is a lot a different than winter camping in places like Montana where I now live. I don't consider the Oliver a 4 season camper in Montana winters unless you hit on a very mild spell and even then you'll run the furnace nearly non stop. Its highly unlikely you'll have running water under those conditions either. Otherwise its a great camper but as others have stated there is a lot of maintenance to do with any of these RV's not just an Oliver. Good luck with your decision.

Welcome to the forum, and also welcome to potential Oliver ownership. If you’ve never camped with an RV or trailer before, you may want consider renting an RV or trailer from a place like CruiseAmerica to see if you’ll really enjoy the trailer life. CruiseAmerica rents both travel trailers and RV motorhomes. Very doubtful that you’ll find anyone willing to rent you their Oliver. The Oliver is a big investment (along with a tow vehicle) and there have been a few owners who sold their Oliver soon after purchase when they discovered all that is involved in trailer life (hitching and un-hitching, campground setup, emptying holding tanks, sanitizing the water system, troubleshooting issues at campgrounds, general annual maintenance, repairs, problems on the road, storage of the trailer when not using it, etc.). Some of their (mis)adventures have been very interesting to read. You mentioned you’ve done backpacking so you at least have some idea of what’s involved in camping. We spent 3 years car camping before moving up to an Oliver. Now in our 4th year camping with the Oliver Elite II and we love it, and it’s a perfect size for just me and my wife, but it is a lot of work and expense compared to just checking into a hotel. But we love the freedom of travel and having all of our own stuff with us no matter where we travel.

Haloview Rear view camera review. The following is the installation and review of Haloview camera. About 12 months ago I put feelers out there about rearview cameras other than Furrion. I had read about to many people unhappy with the performance of the Furrion. I had read John Davis’s installation of the Garmin with a remote transmitter and I like the idea. I took a lot of Ideas from John’s writeup and implemented them to fit my wants. Thanks John for your writeup. I purchased the following directly from Haloview. Note: Haloview does not have any support in the USA. Haloview’s support and products come direct from China. All support is submitting request via the internet. RD7 monitor and camera with 33ft of cable. The 33ft cable was overkill. I was uncertain if the Haloview would connect as reliably from the Front bathroom cabinet area like John did (plan A), or if I would have to route it to the front Propane doghouse area (plan B). The Haloview was intended to be installed across the top of the camper with the camera mount on the back and the transmitter to be on the front outside of the camper. I really didn’t want wiring running across the top of the camper. License plate Camera. CA109 This was for the front license plate. It was not intended replacement for a Dash cam, but to aid in hooking up the trailer to the front end so that I could park the Oli reliably in the 3 sided RV port. Memory You have to purchase a memory card in order to record audio/video. I decided to max it out at 128GB, So I could keep more data. Rearview mirror Monitor adapter: This adapter plate allows you to mount the monitor over the front of the mirror. I like this because it attaches/de attaches easily. and does not sit on the dash. DC 5.5mm x 2.5mm Male Plug The Haloview comes with a long cigarette lighter power cord. I really don’t like a bunch of cords dangling around the cab. I had looked at several different cables on Amazon, I had found another cable that was 9ft long, but messed up and ordered this instead. I will just add the extra wire I need to make the run to hardware it to my truck. Mounting the Camera I mounted the rear camera above the Oliver sign on the top of the roof. I like the U channel idea that John Davis installed. The depth of the camera was about 2.3inches. I found a piece of scrap aluminum 3” angle. I cut two 7” lengths and made my own U-channel. Angle Aluminum is attached with 1/4-20 stainless steel bolts The camera cable connector is 5/8” diameter and the cable itself is about .220”. I found a shifter bushing at Orielly’s that worked as a grommet. I cut a slot in the bushing so I could get the bushing on the cable. I also had to trim the leading edge of the bushing so I could get it started, It was a tight fit. I also made a 7/8 slot in the aluminum where the bushing resides, instead of just drill a hole in the alumimun. This will hopefully allow keep water from building up around the bushing. Sorry I didn’t take pictures of aluminum before assembly, Above: Male end of the connector with rubber boot The Wiring The wiring came into the upper rear cabinet inside the Oli. When pulled the street side panel off from the inside of the cabinet, I was lucky enough to find a 2 wire bundle with one wire marked “cam”, and the other wire was a ground. The DC power cable that came with the Haloview had 22 gauge wires, and the Oli has 14 gauge wires. So the soldered a small length of 18 gauge DC wire to the 22 gauge and reinforce the smaller wires and connections with a couple layers of heat shrink to reinforce the 22 gauge wires from breaking as easily. I then made a mechanical connection with the 18 gauge wires to the Oli’s 14 gauge. I purchased a LED switch from Oliver and added it to the Master switch panel. I love it that Oliver already had a slot for the camera. It made it easy to add power and ground to the switch and connect the “cam” wire on the panel side. Above: Wires inside the upper cabinet just behind the Oliver sign. Below: Haloview wiring setup. The 33 ft Cable going to the transmitter was the only big cable run the I had to do. I want to step back a week in time just after I received the Haloview products. I wanted to test the equipment and where I was actually going to place the transmitter. I kludged together some stuff to place the camera just inside the back window. Then connected all of the haloview cables together and powered them up with a battery jumper box. I place the transmitter inside the bathroom cabinet and taped to the front bulkhead. I used painters tape to secure everything in place for a drive. I mounted the monitor in the truck and went for a 40 mile drive on 2 lane roads and a good freeway stretch. I found the the Haloview transmitter communicated well with the monitor in the truck. I will cover my results later in my review. The 33ft cable run The 33 ft cable was ran through the street side cabinets. I ran into one snag, I was unable to get a fishtape through the pantry cabinet area. I tried for about 45 minutes and then gave up. OK, time to start plan “B”. I know that getting a wire through the bottom street side waste plumbing areas was doable. So I made sure I could get a fishtape from the bottom storage area to the top rear cabinet, this was no problem at all. The only part of plan “B” that I really didn’t like was getting the bathroom sink cover off, and drilling a hole through the front hull into the doghouse area, and plugging it; yet another point of possible leaks, plus it wouldn’t get finished this week. Then the thought came to mind, if I am willing to cut another hole through the hull, why not just cut 2 holes in the pantry and go back to plan “A”. Time to get the executive committee (Dawn and I ) and make a decision. The committee weighed the facts and unanimously decided on plan “A”. FYI: if you run the wire as I did, Plan “A” Haloview has a 26ft length of wire at will work better, If you do plan “B” and run it below to the Propane doghouse the 33ft length of wire will probably be needed. The Connectors on the rear camera cables are large. They are running power,ground, audio, and video through it. Kind of clunky, but I really do not know any better way. I cut two 3/4” holes in each side of the pantry cabinet. I went a little oversize since 5/8” hole is a very snug fit with the cable connectors and boot. upper pantry shelf It worked great, running the wire and mounting the transmitter only took another hour. I first tested the setup before attaching the transmitter to the bulk head; every worked great. The transmitter was then attached to the front bulkhead with 3mm double faced tape. I had to use 2 pieces thick to get it to stick because of the slight curve in the hull. The transmitter fit neatly in the wire trough and takes up very little space. The area around the transmitter only stores wash cloths and hand towels. Review and Lag Time Results: Rearview Camera: The monitor is 720p resolution, and the camera has a 130º view. Furrion is a 480P with 120º. Because of the viewing angle, things appear farther away than they are. The image appears to be clear with good color. A small vehicle can be seen at about 150yards. Semi trucks at about 300yards. This is enough to keep track of vehicles approaching from the rear. According to Haloview viewing distance is only 32ft at night. This does not seem to be very far. I have not had a chance to test it at night. Hopefully this would be enough to see what is close when backing into a site in the late evening. As far as being out on the freeway hopefully you will be able to see car lights further back than 32 feet. I try not to do much traveling in the dark with the camper attached. Lag time: Lag time has always been a problem on wireless cameras. I tested the lag time by measuring road imperfections. When the road imperfection was at the front tires of the truck I would start a timer, and would stop the timer when I would see it in the camera in the rear. Rearview lag at 65mph was about 0.7 seconds lag from the front tires of truck until seen in the back of the truck. This distance is approximately 55ft total distance from the front of the truck to when seen in the back camera. At 65mph is equates to 95.3ft/sec. At 0.7 sec @ 65mph this is 66.7ft, So 66.7ft minus 55ft is approximately 12 feet delay. 12ft divided by 95.3ft per second is about 0.126 second delay. I watch vehicles pulling out in the lane behind me using the rear view camera. When I would see them start to cross the dotted line I would look in the side mirror. During that time the car would be about 2 ft over the line. I also did the reverse watch cars pulling in behind me from the inside lane watching through the side mirror. As the car cross the dotted line, I would look at the rear view monitor and the car would be about 2 ft over the line. I think the 2 ft differences is the amount of time it takes me to turn my head and refocus. So I think that the small delay is imperceptible. Monitor: What I did notice is that the monitor does not have a fluid smooth motion. It was more like an old black and white silent movie that that flickered in movements jumped just slightly with the refresh of the screen. At highway speeds this really wasn’t a big deal, because you were just glancing in the rear view monitor then back to the road and then scanning the side mirrors. To many things to watch for at highway speeds than just staring at the monitor. In town when going 25mph you might have a full second or two you could concentrate and see the jumpiness in the refresh of the image. This really does not both me. The last time I had experience with a backup monitor was when I Installed a Black & white hardwired 9” tube type monitor in a 35” gray hound bus. So my experience is limited. Audio: The cameras have audio. I have not really tested it. I had it on for a while when I was driving. It just made road noise. Road noise is not enjoyable to listen to. When I had a chance, I pulled over and muted the sound. Depending on how well it works, it might be nice when I am backing up that I can hear my wife. The negative is that you have to go into the menu to change the sound setting. Would be nice if the monitor had buttons that would changing the volume. Backup lines: I was disappointed in the lack of adjustability in the lines. You can in and out and front to back in large steps. Not really super functional. I have 2 different Pioneer stereos with backup lines that each of the 4 points of the lines can be adjusted in both axes. Setup: The program works, but is clunky. Sort of old school technology. This unit can handle up to 4 cameras. There is a lot of ways to set the cameras up for viewing. No wifi/bluetooth to connect to phone There is no way to transfer data from the monitor to a computer or phone besides taking the memory card, microSD, out and putting it into my MacBook. I then have to convert the AVI file to MP4, so it can be read on any (i)phone/computer. ie: Apple does’t do AVI since it was an early 1990s Microsoft technology and uses a lot of space. Cables: Power to monitor takes extra connections. 3 cables totally 9 feet to get to a cigarette lighter adapter. Really! No mater what I do I will still have 5 feet of cable hidden behind the monitor. Front License Plate Camera. The front license plate Camera is only to aid in attaching the trailer tongue to the front ball. Due to the Angle of the camera to ball, the camera only works for this purpose. This use is also limited. I can only see the tongue when I am within about 8 feet away. This after practicing one time, I was able to properly get the ball properly positioned under the tongue 3 more times in a row on the first shot. The camera is only turned on when it is needed for hooking up to the trailer. If I pointed the camera up, I would not be able to use it as an aid in hooking up the trailer. Also this technology is not quite suited as a fully functioning Dash Cam. There is a video delay on front licenses plate camera. The delay was variable from imperceptible to 1.2 seconds. I test it by driving forward in the driveway and then slamming on the brakes and measure the time delay. Fortunately as I got close to the ball the delay seemed to be imperceptible most likely because I was creeping forward, slower than a idle. The camera is mounted on the front of a custom 1/4in thick bumper. The metal may have caused the problems with the reception. Overview: Positives: Haloview had already paired the cameras. I just powered everything up and they worked. Quality appears to be pretty good. Everything was packaged nicely and it took 10 days to get here from China. (not bad from China) I like the rearview mirror mounting adapter. When in use it attaches to my rear view mirror. I do not the rear view mirror when towing, I get tired of just seeing the emblem on the front of the Oli, This unit can handle up to 4 cameras. There is a lot of ways to set the cameras up for viewing. Price was reasonable. I spent over $700 for my 1998 wired rear view camera setup. Technology has came a long way since then. Furrion is $200 more for a similar camera. Records video and audio. Many other setups do not. Negatives: Getting the data off of the Monitor. There is no bluetooth/wifi connection. Kind of a PITA. Since this a totally based Chinese company, I do not know how good there service will be. The Haloview products took about 10 days to arrive from China. Amazon does sell Haloview. I do not know if the support will be any better/different. I did use the online web tool to ask information. In both cases I had a reply in less than 24hours. Finding the communication tool is difficult to find on their website. No phone # to call. Viewing angle of front bumper camera is poor. This could be as much my problem with the angle of setup. Lag time on front bumper is as much as 1.2 seconds. Night time viewing probably poor have not tested. limited to 32ft maximum. Power to monitor takes extra connections. 3 cables totaling 9 feet. Monitor function/setup clunky. Looks like 1990s software technology. Looking online other manufactures are just as bad. This is not a replacement for a real dash cam Adjusting sound is not as easy as just pushing a button. Overall I am satisfied with the investment. For a wireless camera it is good. It is usable and does the job I bought it for. I think the only way of getting better video quality at this time is to hardwire from the camera to the monitor. I really did not want something else to connect when hooking up the trailer.

Correct. The relay just replaces the furnace control function of the thermostat control module in the Dometic AC. The blue and blue/white voltage wires to/from the furnace go to the relay contact terminals. I rewired the green and yellow conductors in the thermostat cable to route ground to the replacement thermostat and back to the relay trigger input. The red conductor is unused. (Mine only had the three) Except for connecting the new thermostat, all rewiring is done overhead and straightforward. This may not be the cheapest solution but, considering the labor rate for a tech to pull new wires, it might be. Another possible issue “could be” the thermostat contact rating. In order to direct wire it to the furnace, the minimum rating would have to be 7.5 amps @ 12 volts DC. (I’m assuming this is an LEII furnace) It might be hard to determine for residential thermostats but your tech needs to verify this rating.

another bonus of a WT is that a white tow vehicle goes well with a Oliver.

We have an abundance of black bear (no brown bear) in WNC. if you see an active bear notice in a campground, or bearproof trash cans, you might just want to lock your car doors. This video from local ABC channel this year shows why: https://fb.watch/eLBFXziB2j/

I still think this is caused by air pressure from the forward facing drain hole. My interim solution is a pair of the ever popular RV magnetic catches. Fit perfectly.

Kgeb - The only "failure" I've had with my EZ gutters has been where the 3M tape actually loosened from the gutter - not the Oliver. To fix this I removed the tape from both the gutter (where it was still stuck) and from the Oliver. Then I cleaned both surfaces and applied a thin coating of "E6000" (available at WalMart, Amazon, etc.) to the back of the gutter and pressed it in place. I then used "painter's tape" to hold the gutter in place overnight. That was now over two years ago and the gutter has not failed again. Bill