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Good morning Oliver family, We just became members last Thursday!! We are so excited about our upcoming adventures. Question for you. I ordered several upgrades from Foy Sperring and one of them was the wood insert to put in-between the twin beds to convert it to a queen. We have the new mattresses, not the KTT. Does anyone on the forum have this? Can you tell me where you ordered a foam insert for the middle and at what depth? Thanks in advance. LOVE everything so far!

The new units have AC powered smart TVs. They work pretty well, too. We're able to stream lots of content connected to a hotspot on a phone.

I am not sure when they stopped offering the mirrored doors. I quite like them because they make the inside seem way bigger than it actually is. Does anyone know at what Hull number this option was ended? I spent three nights at Heyburn State Park, ID, Hawley’s Landing CG, $92 with power and water, with a senior midweek discount taken away and a $10 res fee added. It is about 30 miles south of Coeur d’Alene, next to the wonderful Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes bike trail. I am glad I had power because the trees are packed in there, I rarely even saw a piece of sun. One night I woke up at 2:00 am and could not get back to sleep, so I started playing around with my iPhone 13 Mini, which has amazing night mode. Here are a bunch of shots with various interior lighting on or off. No flash, unedited. The first one is no cabin lights, just various LEDS from the appliances and my box heater (under the table) and HEPA air cleaner (in the bathroom). No lights: Cabinet lights only: Cabinet and puddle lights: The green LED is the cell booster: This is my favorite Hall of Mirrors shot: All lights on - Ouch!: John Davies Spokane WA

Congratulations! We will be hull #1290 picking up November 7.

Congratulations. Right behind with 1273. So excited

I use the Google Chromecast at home for streaming, so I got one for the Ollie, plugged it into the Visio HDMI slot, and it works like a charm. I turn on the hotspot on my android phone, which allows the television to connect, then stream whatever I want. I have the lithiums and am able to power the television, microwave and air conditioner off the batteries (not at the same time!).

Oliver switched from a DC to an AC Visio beginning in 2020.

They buy gelcoat in big drums. I don't think they supply a touch-up kit, as most folks never need it. And, it doesn't last long.

Welcome! That's a great looking combination you have. As you've already found, there's a wealth of information here, and wonderful people more than willing to share. Numbers are going up fast! I don't think we'll be 1313 come March 28th, since they're building the trailers os quickly. If we were 1313, I was going to name the trailer Mockingbird. 🤪

Now all I need is the table top. And... a trailer. Only 5+ more months!!

Welcome to the Family. Indeed, you are now a full fledged member with one very nice looking rig. Perhaps a PM to Foy would help in getting the measurements you need and even might help in getting a source for that insert. Bill

Congrats on your new Ollie!😍

I thought that they were AC. I have been reading everything in the manuals.

Yep. The control board, ignitor, etc. need 12v DC to operate.

Even though Mainiac poked a bit of fun at himself in his original post above - this is no joke. Serious injury could result from this "anode plug" given the force behind it. As John Davies mentions above - bad things can (and do) happen, Bill

Under your account settings/notification settings.

Make a check sheet. Follow the check sheet. To drain the water heater: Step one, open the T & P (temp and pressure relief valve). Step two, then remove the anode plug Failure to open the T &P valve first could cause that anode plug to fly out under extreme pressure. Some idiot just did that, and the anode flew out over five feet and soaked the unaware actor. Lucky that no one got hurt. (I should have known better, as I had written the check sheet. And in a former life I used to winterize over 40 units a year. And boy was that water COLD) Another note: the anode had a lot of holes in it. That is great. It means it is doing it's job. And the more holes means the more area exposed to the water. Over 6 years and don't have to replace it yet. Guess we are lucky and have used "good" water. Will only replace it when it is down to a wire and about 3 or 4 inches long. Some dealers like to sell tnem. Think Spring

Now all you need is a Blue Man Group outfit! All of this at 2am? Did you hit that bike trail too hard or not hard enough? Bill

When I removed the anode I was using a 1/2" ratchet with a 6" extension and socket. When the water heater decided to flush itself below and against my belt buckle I jumped back rather forcefully. Never released the ratchet. It might have slowed the projectile a little, but that anode still traveled past me better than 5 feet. I still think it was laughing as it flew by...

My bad! I'm running 0 for 2 today. Hopefully this is not old age.😬 Thanks for the update! Bill p.s. I have edited my post above to reflect the change in the 2020 models.

Here are my thoughts on that. Garmin chose the lower transfer rate so that it would be compatible with more networks. If you are running at 5g, and you enter an area that has only 2.4g coverage, it would probably not work. so it is throttled down to 2.4g just to get a connection in more areas. that said, in the setup give "the owner of the device" a choice, "to set a Default to 2.4g if 5g network is not available". here is what i found similar to what you found. https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=NSX1SiyVkJ32XiopghB9g8 bummer - the 890 is not among the devices capable of connecting to a 5g network. i guess i do not need to call Garmin and ask, as they have already answered with the above. B~Out

Good info, thanks Topgun2. Size reference: We have a short bed Ram 1500 and the 11.5 X 11.5 fits easily in the bed of the truck.

The TV in the Oliver runs off DC - 12 volt. At least up to the 2020 models. Bill

Touch up PAINT is different than gelcoat. Touchup paint can last a long time. SeaDawg is correct gelcoat would dry up very fast and not be useable.

What was that old saying? "You place your bets and you take your chances". Technology is always changing. It is likely that both charging and storage tech will continue to improve. But, I've read recently about difficulties with both the amount of lithium available and the ability to mine it. Will these conditions improve over the next year? How about over the next five years? And what about "new" storage tech that promises to totally change the way energy is stored in the first place? Perhaps better questions to ask would be along the lines of how long do you expect to keep your Oliver? What climates do you plan to use it in? What is the "payback" time on the lithiums versus the answers to the first question versus what the potential impact on resale value? Certainly not an easy thing to figure out! Good luck! Bill

Yes, you need DC power to run the controls of the refrigerator. With the dead batteries, you will likely not see any of the control lights being lite. Also, the owner's manual for the refrigerator tells you that you need 12V power (or plugged into 120V power which gets changed to 12V).

My Garmin 890 is better in all respects as compared to any other GPS unit I've owned. This includes the GPS navigation system in my Ford F-150. Having said this - none of these units (in my experience) are perfect. Speed limit signs/zones are delayed or missed, wrong turns and/or directions are given and these units can be a bit slow when it seems that they are needed the most - heavy traffic and congested areas. School zones are missed, etc.. It really does help to: have a navigator who really knows how to use these devices. Knows or at least has a general idea of where you are going and the general direction you should be taking to get there. Has a "sense of direction" and can read a map - both digital and paper. These devices are "aids" but do not replace my responsibility for knowing where I'm going and what the conditions are in getting there. I can only wonder what that State Trooper would say when I'd tell them that my Garmin told me it was "x" speed limit when in reality the speed limit was "y"? Perhaps there is something wrong with your specific unit. Mine always connects to my 5G here at home. Bill

Note that the larger CLAM's such as the one in Katjo's video above will not fit in the closet of the Ollie. They must be stored either in the tow vehicle or someplace else in the Oliver (i.e. the aisle, the bath, the bed, etc.) The smaller version like THIS one will fit inside the Oliver closet (folded up of course). Bill

Hi John, The brand is Clam, Quick Set Escape is the model and the size we have 11.5 X 11.5.

Looks good. How big is the clam? Who makes it? John

We get so many compliments on these solar lights, they are so realistic and bright!! We’ve had ours 2 years and they are still going strong!

Should have opened a faucet inside, to relieve the pressure, per the winterization video.. HOWEVER, the video casually mentions to drain the waterheater, with no mention of opening the T & P valve. Live and learn...

The two Oliver groups were started years apart, by different Oliver owners. I don't spend a lot of time on Facebook.

Years ago, our Subaru came with a little container of touch up paint. Does Oliver sell or provide a little touch up gel for those little chips.

Oliver should pick up any issues the first year or so, at any RV repair facility you choose. We’ve not had any significant repair items in almost 7 years. Mostly just upkeep, tires and batteries have been the only major expenses and I doubt an extended warranty would cover those. Mike

I agree with SeaDawg in that most problems arise within the first year and you do have the Oliver warranty. It really is a personal decision, but we typically don’t buy extended warranty’s. The two separate Oliver groups on FB “Oliver Trailer Owners” and “Oliver Owners of America” are redundant however, anyone can make a group and that is what happen with two separate by similar Oliver groups. These groups were started by an owner(s) not by Oliver.

Your Oliver warranty covers you, wherever you are. Many components have a 2 year warranty. Buying an extended warranty is a very personal decision. But, we usually vote against them. Most problems rear their ugly heads in the first year, imo.

1st question - Just like any insurance the answer to you question depends on: a. can you afford to "self insure"? The word "afford" has several meanings here - obviously the money involved is one but what about peace of mind knowing that many "big" expenses will already be taken care of? b. what are the "odds" that you will actually need the insurance? Obviously, the odds are very good IF you ever have a claim, but, these same odds are very bad if you never have a claim. c. are you disciplined enough to "pay" yourself that $25 per month and put it into a "repair fund". And even if the answer is "yes" then will it be enough to cover the expense of what you might have to repair? Remember that you already have some insurance on a brand new Oliver. Certainly for at least the first year you will be paying that additional $25 per month for basically nothing given that the Oliver warranty covers everything. 2nd question - I do not "do" Facebook, so, I'm not the best person to ask. From what little I do know, at least one of the Facebook groups was formed in order to make it a bit easier to post pictures and since members of a group were more "centered on Facebook for other aspects of their lives, it was simply an easier platform for them (i.e. it avoided having to jump back and forth from one thing to another with different formats). Why there are two separate groups? I could guess but that would be of no use. Bill

These are circuit breakers for some of your 12 volt items. The backlit labels at the top should be illuminated all the time, the round light should illuminate if the circuit “blows” , and a circuit can be disabled by switching it off (downwards). This is a high quality marine unit. The lights are also a “phantom” electrical drain of about 0.01 amp. You can easily disable the lights for those labels by unplugging a wire. Oliver should never have connected that wire IMHO. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5405-how-to-disconnect-the-attic-blue-sea-circuit-breaker-backlight-10-milliamp-phantom-drain/ If yours are not lit, somebody disconnected them 😬 And you are correct, there is nothing about it in the owner info packet. I am not sure when they quit using this panel, it was probably a cost saving decision. John Davies Spokane WA

That’s a big troubleshooting clue. The light and motor are wired in parallel, and share a common ground point (see schematic in previous post), so since the light didn’t work either when this jack problem occurred, that points to a wiring connection issue with either the 12v hot lead or the ground, not a motor problem or jack screw problem.

I’ve got a bunch of chips. All is good. I wish mine were the size of a pin head, but most are larger. I may fix them at some point, but right now we’re too busy camping. Mike

For a boat that sits in the water long term (in a slip), you definitely need to fill cracks and chips in the gelcoat, it can cause blistering and possibly delamination and rot otherwise. Your Ollie is not a worry. You will see a lot accumulate behind the rear tires, under the curve of the hull, unless you add mudflaps. Those chips can be unsightly, but most likely only the person who washes will notice. Once there are a few bugs stuck down, nobody will notice chips. John Davies Spokane WA

For reference, here’s a couple pics of what the outer Oliver hull fiberglass construction is like. I have this piece from a 2” diameter hole I cut in the lower hull for a modification I did. The total thickness in the area I cut through is about 1/4”. Some high stress areas are thicker with additional reinforcement in the fiberglass. The outer white gel coat layer is about 1/32” thick. A small pin head size ding is not a problem for an Ollie 🙂.

We have the Houghton and I do find everything in this video to be accurate (I also have data to confirm this). We do use a dehumidifier along with the Houghton to control humidity/dewpoint AND temperature. I think this is normal as an AC unit is specifically made to operate based on temperature (not humidity) and a dehumidifier is made to operate based on humidity (not temperature). I know lots of people in NC that have a dehumidifier in their home and run AC and the dehumidifier to control both humidity and temp. Auto on the Houghton does not stop the fan from running when the compressor is off. I thought it was just circulating the cabin air when the compressor is off, but if it' s mixing in outside air that may be something that could be improved with the design, but it still wouldn't control BOTH humidity and temperature. What I've found works best for us is keeping the temp set at the lowest point (60F) when cooling so the compressor doesn't shut off. The cabin cools quickly and the dewpoint drops dramatically just as quickly. Once we've got the temperature where we want it, we turn off the AC before it starts cycling. The dehumidifier then keeps the dewpoint in check so even if the temperature goes up, it's still "comfortable". If the temperature does get uncomfortable, it means waking up in the middle of the night and running the AC for about 30 minutes to get things comfortable again, but this is rare. On nights when I know it's going to get too hot, I've used the timer function to have the AC come on for 30 minutes in the middle of the night and then shut off again without me having to manually turn it on and off.

Might be. From an engineering standpoint it is a very bad idea…. The factory design has 0.5” wall thickness. 1/4” wall thickness is inadequate, especially if you install a 1-Up rack which uses an internal steel ball as a rocker stopper. That will eventually wreck the aluminum. If an owner insists on using a knocked out receiver, please, always add a stout cable lock around the bikes and crossbar, in case it all departs unexpectedly. It is easy to bolt on a steel receiver so there are no worries. John Davies Spokane WA

I would like to say here that Oliver will probably not be much help on a 2" receiver as there hitch 1 1/4" was designed for certain amount of weight and going to a 2" receiver is going to let owners overload there designed hitch assembly. Plus I see in many of the pics that many extend there assembly by some two plus feet beyond the hitch assembly, I would think this would put much more stress on the assembly then Oliver designed it for. I see no problem with a 2" receiver, but you still have to control your weight and what you are doing. trainman

This is how the current situation got started. Years ago, Oliver’s sales manager asked me to come up with a design for a bike rack. I did and they built a good 2” rack that could handle any two bikes. They informed all buyers of the rack its weight limitations and even had a sticker stating that information proudly displayed on each rack. Oliver built a bunch of these units with my design but ultimately changed it to the current rack first with a 2” receiver then moving down to a 1-1/4” receiver due to “the incident.” Much like the general population, there are a few owners that don’t necessarily read and follow directions. One owner didn’t. He bought one of the racks with the 2” receiver and, although I don’t know exactly what happened, I can imagine him installing one of those flat racks you see hanging off the tail end of a vehicle. He probably loaded a cooler of ice and beer on one end and a plastic tote of whatever beside it, put a coupe of bungees around it and called it good. Somewhere along his way everything proceeds to turn to shite. He complains to Oliver that his expensive rack didn’t meet his expectations, they wonder how it failed if it hadn’t been overloaded, he swears it couldn’t have been, one thing leads to another and here we are… I’ll be happy to share my design with anyone. Although I don’t carry bikes on it, I’ve used it on the rear of our Hull #050 many times carrying upwards of 200 pounds. I’ve never had an issue with it.

At last, we have taken delivery of #1071. Watson, the three-legged wonder dog, tagged along for the big adventure. After a night at the Oliver camp grounds, we made our way to Fall Creek Falls State park for a couple of days, then back to home in Atlanta. As total newbies, we're still amazed that we didn't blow up our rig. The best part was pulling the Ollie up our driveway without dragging the concrete.

So, I have a solution for the mounting of my RV890 in my Ram 2500. I went back to the ProClip web site and did a search for RV890 and, lo and behold, they have a specific mount for the 890 that attaches to the magnetic charging Garmin mount. Since the diesel 2500s have a column shift, the normal Ram mount won’t work, but they make one that attaches to the other side of the dash on the passenger side. This is a great solution for us since Carol is the navigator. We both can see it fine and with it on her side she can easily remove it to do searches or whatever. I have a 12V on the dash so charging is easy. Just the mount without the RV890. With the RV890 mounted.

For what it's worth, I am beginning to use my new trailer with the solar pro package, 390 amp hour lithionic batteries. Pulled into the campsite last night at 9:00 p.m., no hookups, batteries were 100%, according to the phone app. Used some lights, the water pump before calling it a night, and left the max fan on at about 40% all night long just to keep a little bit of fresh air flowing in the trailer. When I woke up, the phone app showed 91% on all three batteries