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When you use the tank flush port or waste water holding tank port, it will fill the black tank with fresh clean water. Once the black tank is full (assuming that you continue to allow fresh water into this port) the water will fill the toilet. Once the toilet is full it will fill your bathroom. Once the bathroom is full ...... The tank termination valve is the place where the black tank terminates - i.e. the blade valve that you use to empty the black tank. With this valve in the open position, the black tank can not fill thus the toilet will not fill nor the bathroom, etc.. Of course, you will not want to open that blade valve unless you have attached the waste water (black water - i.e. sewer water) hose (aka "stinky slinky") to your Oliver and the other end to an appropriate sewage dump. Bill

@jd1923 Really nice job bringing an extended service life back to your Ram. It looks really great for a 22 year old truck. It should hopefully provide you with many happy towing miles especially knowing you did the work. Last October we were gifted a 2004 Ford Ranger Edge extra cab V6 4x4 by my FIL. He purchased the truck new in 2004. He is 92 now and just does not need or use his Ranger anymore. He wanted to keep it in the family, we are honoring that. When we picked it up, it only had 53k on the odo. Needless to say he did not put many miles on it over the years. We brought it home and detailed the entire truck inside and out. I swapped out the old battery for new, changed the oil and air filters and ran some fuel treatment through it. I even had a new spare installed as it had the original factory still from 04. I found the Leer camper shell you see in the pic for $350 off CL. I took it to a really reputable body shop and had the topper which was originally black painted to match Sonic Blue for $600. I purchased new seals from Leer for all the windows. As I had the shop pull all the windows to sand the topper down. A new similar Leer topper would have cost $2700 plus. I added new black aluminum running boards to reduce chances of the careless door swingers in parking lots. And they really work well. I recently took it to a local shop and had all four original shocks replaced with Bilsteins which I provided and the shop installed for $125 labor. What a difference! I was glad to pay the shop $125 it was a very hot and humid summer day. We just rolled over 60k on this truck which is primarily used as a Lowes/grocery getter. We will have the transmission serviced soon. It’s really been a great little truck, fun to drive and we are grateful to have it. It also keeps the miles off our F350 TV and our car. It’s also reasonable to register at $59.00 a year. I say all this as I can really appreciate ALL that you have done with your Ram. Again, really nice work on the resto! Now enjoy that truck, it will make a fine TV! 😊 Patriot🇺🇸 Our Ranger will be 20 yrs old soon.

If I close my eyes, I can imagine an Ollie in that spot…. I think I will call this trailer “Mousie”. John Davies Spokane WA

EDIT 10/14/23. I returned the trailer due to multiple issues, a new thread with pics, commentary and videos is here: https://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/apogee-adapt-x-folding-utility-trailer-cool-design-big-fail-in-the-execution.241264/ I won't be adding any more content here, but I will be happy to discuss. JD _______________________ New aluminum folding trailer. The sides are reflecting the dark ground, they are shiny silver. https://apogeetrailers.com/folding-aluminum-trailers/ https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-apogee-adapt-x-300-folding-utility-trailer-at44fr.aspx I found it for $2000 off MSRP, paid $3388 out the door (no sales tax in OR, I have to pay that when I register it in WA. I love the design and the build quality and the attention to details, but holy cow, it is sure noisy on lumpy pavement. It sounds as if it is going to explode, even with 450 pounds of ballast. I use a hitch quieter on the ball mount, I tightened the coupler nut and put nylon ties onto every little rattly part like the pivot pins. They do not mention this in the fancy marketing material. This is a really rare trailer in the USA, I think they are not selling a lot, eTrailer.com USED to carry them, but no longer does. Mine is a 2022, I have not seen any 2023 models listed except in the Home Country, Canada. I guess more Canadians need the folding feature for winter storage, plus they are a little cheaper there too. I have not read any user reviews except for a couple of “Gee I really like this.” And “Gee this is really cool, my ATV fits fine!” This thread will change that. I will post lots of pics and info as I learn more. Fixed their home page: I do not intend to carry a 2000 pound ATV all the time, this is for box store and landscaping trips. I do not want this to turn into another bottomless pit of mods, like “Mouse”, but was considering adding this. It uses the existing axle and hubs, unlike their Independent suspension version. Timbren Silent Ride 3500 lbs I am concerned that the rubber dampers may be too stiff, the trailer has a max payload of 2300 pounds but normally will be less than 1000. If the dampers from the smaller 2000 pound kit can be swapped in easily, that would be a possible solution. Does anyone have direct experience with this Silent Ride system? I just got home yesterday afternoon, 700 mile round trip to the dealer in two days, and I am a bit wiped. I could do that a lot easier when I was 30… I need to do some crawling around and measuring. John Davies Spokane WA

A brand new Oliver Elite 2 from Missouri - with a gray and silver front logo like mine!

If you have the time - be sure to drive Needles Highway since you are so close. However, do not take the Ollie with you. And, of course, the Custer State Park Wildlife loop road. I assume that you already know about Mt. Rushmore. Bill

So, it's been a couple of weeks. I rebuilt the left side. Waited on correct rear sway bar links and another UCA bushing (after I crushed one in the press, OMG!) Got everything suspension wise buttoned up, BTW, you have to jack up each control arm, on each side, ride height to final tighten the bushings. Meanwhile, I replaced the trans filter and fluid (all of it), and flushed the brake fluid (yes, all of it). I will write another post on fluids, ah the most important maintenance! Hey, when you take the time to put your truck up on all fours, do everything you can. Hoping my build here will outlive me! The left side looks the same as the right, so no more suspension pics. Got done in time for my alignment appointment yesterday. I asked them to review all of my restoration work too. They said all was good and they finished with the hour. We need confidence when driving our tow vehicles, and when a reputable local repair shop says; "You're good." It certainly helps. I spent a total of $1,120 on steering/suspension/shock rebuild and 60+ hours of my hard work. The cost was mostly on parts (which btw, was 2X cost when I built another truck, just 2 years ago). The alignment was $102 (included in the total). This may sound like a lot to some, but including this cost, my amazing Cummins Diesel tow vehicle is still just under $20K total! (LOL, I'm not done yet. I will spend more!) I know some of you have wonderful late-model Dodge Ram Cummins TVs, and you truly understand what these numbers mean. Wife Chris thought of a great idea to test everything today. She suggested we drive to a favorite lunch spot, just 30 miles away. Yeah, she's great! I have a busy week coming up and will hook up the Oliver soon. Next job, the Oliver axles and more. All is good. and we could not be happier!

Looks like a really nicely built trailer. I have several utility trailers from a 4x6 foot box trailer that I built back in the 1990's to carry camping/SCUBA gear in to a 7x18 foot flatbed. In Gardner, MT at the North Entrance to Yellowstone NP - September, 1997. Getting ready to leave on a rafting trip on the Buffalo NR in Arkansas, April, 2003.

I found this solar powered flag post Led light at HF and am going to give it a try on our next trip. I opted to mount it using heavy duty zip ties vs SS hose clamps for a just little cleaner install. (See unsnipped zip tie) It’s got pretty good reviews, so I thought I would give it a try. I will post up how well it lights up our flag after our first use. The solar panel and light are adjustable. The light can be removed during travel and the mount left in place on the pole. The light will likely need a little tweaking to get it dialed in on the flag. Patriot🇺🇸

We've had the Battery Box on our radar screen since we purchased Casablanca back in March from its PO in TX. One of the Hull #226 selling points for us was that the PO had recently replaced the AGMs with 3 Battle Borns and added a Victron Smart Shunt. However, upon learning from the forum, the BB install by the PO was less than optimum - or at least to our understanding at the time. We were surprised that there wasn't a battery master "shut-off" switch. This fact was the main driver for this project - after looking into what we "really" had on our hands, the pervasive project "scope creep" showed its ugly head! Full Disclosure: Although we've had several RVs over the decades, never have we owned Lithiums. Thanks to these forums, learning about the nuances and particulars of LiFePOs, specifically, Battle Borns - and even more specifically, their application with the Oliver, has taken some time to digest. We didn't want to delve into the "fray" of "cleaning up" what was previously installed until our understanding of this particular system was at a high enough level not to screw something up. So, thanks to the forums, many of y'all's posts regarding the subject, and special thanks go out to @Geronimo John for his patience and guidance with what ended up being a fairly large scale re-design of Casablanca's DC distribution system. Initial Configuration and Issues: 1. A key indicator that there was an issue somewhere within the "DC system" was that the charge controller would never reach 14.4 volts; 13.6 was the max ever observed/measured. 2. The BBs were stacked in an unusual configuration on the battery tray. The rear two batts were aligned side-by-side facing left/right and the third "outer" BB was aligned 90 degrees off facing fore/aft. Several cables were too short not allowing full battery tray extension. Clearly not a neat/tidy or logical configuration. 3. The battery bank was not strapped down. 4. Although likely large enough for intended current, the three BB's parallel connections were made with 1/0 cables versus the 4/0 cables distributing the current into the trailer. 5. Several positive and negative connections were made directly to the battery bank without the use of any sort of terminal post or terminal bar even though the Smart Shunt was in place. These connections were bypassing the SS, not good - thus contributing to phantom current within the DC distribution system and not allowing the Victron App to capture all DC power activity. 6. One cable, a yellow 4 AWG, ran from a negative BB terminal to the wrong side of the Victron SS; this cable essentially paralleled the 4/0 cable from the same terminal to the shunt. This made absolutely no sense. 7. As stated above, no battery master switch. We've always had a master switch in previous campers - handy for longer term storage and eliminating phantom current. In case of fire, we wanted a "safety switch" located outside the camper and inside the battery box to quickly secure DC power after quickly exiting the rig. SUMMARY OF WORK PERFORMED: The closer we looked at the DC set-up the more questions and issues surfaced. There were other ancillary DC system "gripes" but the above list really paints the picture of what we were dealing with... After quite a bit of forum research, thought, and informative and lively discussions with Geronimo John; a clearer project plan developed. 1. We made an assumption that the PO didn't upgrade the "lead-acid" charge controller circuit board as part of the BB installation. This rationale would explain why we never observed more than 13.6 volts on shore power with the controller energized. Sure enough, after pulling the board, it was clear that the board was doing exactly what it was intended to do - charge lead-acid batteries; as it didn't have the Lithium micro-switch option. So, we ordered a replacement 45-Amp board from Amazon with the Lithium option - enter "project scope creep." Above pic shows replacing the LA charge controller with a Li-capable board. The lead-acid board is 100% functional and will be posted for sale on the forums. The new Li-board cranked right up and the BBs finally received the charge intended for a Lithium battery bank: 2. Disconnected and removed the 1/0 cables connecting the 3 BBs, labeled and stacked them sequentially from back to front. Sized cables to allow full extension of the battery tray and added nylon tie-down straps from Rangley. Cut, crimped, heat shrunk, and installed new 4/0 color-coded cables in parallel configuration: Made a terminal buss-bar from 3/16" x 1" solid copper for the Blue Sea Systems master switch (Amazon) which will be heat shrinked once it arrives. Contoured a poly board from an old cutting board to mount the switch, like many owners have done. Mounted a positive (+) terminal bar with the master switch to accommodate DC connections. In the new configuration, only 4/0 cables are connected to battery terminals - removed the various "added-on" connections and placed them appropriately between the (+) terminal bar and the Victron SS. Now, all DC (-) connections are made through the shunt so all DC power measurements are captured with the Victron Application. Peace of mind - priceless. While we were at it, we added an SAE solar input port for the 200W Renogy suitcase solar modules - more scope creep... HA! Not being an EE, I'm sure there's something left out, but in the end, we've got a clean set-up in the battery compartment, fully functional Victron SS, and the appropriate charge controller to manage the BBs. Time for a cold one. Cheers! A & D

The interpretive Ranger-led presentation is well worth the time before you take the loop. Enjoy!

@topgun2, both great suggestions. The wild life loop at/near dusk is simply amazing. We saw so much...

The campground host says another Oliver came through 2 weeks ago!

Better you than me - I never "liked" anything over +- 100 feet! About the same - aluminum frame, well built, durable, compact.......

@SeaDawg I am glad the video was helpful. My info is below and I will add that to my signature. I was just running it to share the sound level with someone else who asked. But I did run the AC for a couple hours when I was traveling last month and it dropped the battery about 20%. I have the lithium pro package which is 630 amp hours and 340 watt panels with a 3000 w inverter.

If you get to Yellowstone and need a site with power there’s a nice Idaho state park just about 10 or 15 miles to the west. Ralph’s Lake State Park, W/E plus they have new shower buildings. I don’t think they take reservations, we had no problem getting in. It was only a 20 minute drive to Yellowstone.

I assume that you have a reservation at Wapiti and (as you may know) they do have a number of sites there that have power. There is another National Forest Service campground west of Wapiti - Rex Hale - that has 6 or 7 electric sites if you need them but they are usually reserved well in advance. If push comes to shove and you really need power (or dump or laundry, you can head back east a few miles to Yellowstone Valley Inn. My favorite campground in West Yellowstone is Baker's Hole - north of the town by about 2 miles (just beyond the airport). Site 50 or 51 will get you a wonderful view into Yellowstone National Park and stunning sunsets. There are also a few electric sites there but (again) they are usually reserved well in advance. The best laundry in West Yellowstone is "Little Ducklings" (520 Madison Ave). There are two grocery stores in town if you need to restock. Propane refills can be obtained at Westmart Building Center (100 S. Faithful Street - its an ACE Hardware store) or at the Mobil Gas station (11 Yellowstone Ave). If you do the research, there are a number of places to boondock near the Grand Tetons. One of my favorite places is a decommissioned National Forest Service camp called Box Creek. It is located approximately 10 miles east on Buffalo Valley Road. If you plan to fish, PM me for suggestions. Have a great trip! Bill

Just a brief hello as I prepare to be without power for about a month. Won't be able to participate in the forum as much, unless I manage from my phone. Black Hills SD, Devils Tower WY, Wapiti campground (west of Cody), West Yellowstone MT, and someplace in the Grand Tetons WY before turning south and east. Many heartfelt thanks to all the great members here for your help, encouragement and advice as I begin this next segment of the journey. I'm thrilled!

Not much to see here, but as promised, here are a couple of photos. The first is obvious, the second is the storage box quick disconnect at the back of our Ollie.

Ah, understood! Totally get the rig set-up @Patriot! Concur, 100%, the light bracket should be fine living on the flagpole sleeve. We'll get one! Thanks for the post, Amigo!

Yes, however I have a storage box for the pole to keep it looking sano as it travels in the bed. The light mounting plate will live where you see it mounted and I can easily attach the light and solar panel at base camp set up. The light is plastic and likely would not withstand towing down the super slab underway. The lower profile light mounting bracket should be fine. Mod On!! 😊

If they don't call you back by 2pm today - I'd give them another call. I've never had them NOT call me back but with several people working there things could get lost. Bill

Yeah, I just called their office a few minutes ago and left a detailed voice message... I look forward to hearing back from them. We're looking forward to the possibility of joining everyone at the rally next year! Should be a blast... Cheers, Amigo!

Thanks, Bill. It's passed all of the operational checks, so far so good - very happy with the performance of the new configuration. Played around with it a bit earlier today and remounted the (+) terminal bar and applied shrink wrap to the copper buss bar. Final Config: ...and newly installed location of the Renogy portable solar module input: Cheers!

This thread has been a great help to me. I thought I would share my problem and fix in case it helps others. My wife and I recently bought a used RV. The previous owner had installed a Houghton AC/heat pump. On our first trip, I noticed the unit was cycling on and off about every 4 or 5 minutes. A post above stated that the manufacturer said that this behavior is normal when the temperature is near the setoint. I hung a Govee temperature logger from the AC unit. My unit was cycling even when the temp was far from the setpoint. As a test, I set the setpoint at 60 degF. The unit cycled when the temperature was 78 degrees and cooler. Needless to say, the unit never brought the temperature down to the setpoint. After much puzzling over the situation, I discovered the trouble. My system is a ducted version. When I removed the control panel/shroud from the unit, I discovered that there were two 2"x3" openings on the sides of the unit into the hollow ceiling. The hollow ceiling serves as a cold air plenum to feed the outlets in the ceiling of the RV. These openings were allowing cold air to short cirtuit back into the return of the AC. This was artificially lowering the temperature that the sensor in the return air stream was reading. I cut pieces of rubber and used aluminum duct tape to seal the holes. Problem solved! The unit will now run constantly and can cool like a champ! Another tip: Get yourself a Govee temperature logger or something similar. The Govee stores 2 years of data and lasts well over a year on a battery. I have this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R586J37/ and a few other Govee models. Highly recommended for monitoring refrigerator temperture or anything else. The attached pictures may be enlightening. Sadly, I forgot to take pictures of my finished repair. I had installed the cover and 8 screws before I realized it. Again, thank you all for this very helpful thread! Happy Camping! Illustrations of cycling and slow temperature movement: Cycling beginning at 78 degrees F when setpoint is at 60 degrees. Before fix - 6 hours to drop from 71 to 68 during the night: After fix - 2 hours to drop from 77 to 63 during mid afternoon: Pictures of holes into the ceiling from the AC unit: With flash:

We’ve stayed at a couple dozen military Famcamps around the country from California to New York. It’s a nice benefit for us tired old military retirees. Mike

GREAT IDEA!!!! Oliver, I'm sure, will make note of this !! Chuck

Hi Cherie, Ours was installed at factory and is a SignalReach, model sa210. It was installed after Phunny Pharm completed and the antenna is thru the dinette window. Chuck

I'm here at the Madagorda Madness and see another Oliver pull into the camp . . . its DougI. Doug set up his site and wandered on over to say hello. He took a look at my City Water hookup with its perpetual drip, drip, drip from behind the fitting and said. "Pete, would you like that to stop dripping?" After an enthusiastic "YES!" Doug pulls out a 1/2 inch Allen Wrench and some Teflon tape and goes to work . . . two minutes later, NO DRIP! Doug is now my new hero! Here's the simple fix for those others of you who may be plagued by this mysterious and pervasive drip that leaves a puddle underneath your beautiful Oliver. 1 - Insert 1/2 inch Allen wrench into the center of your water fitting. 2 - Rotate counterclockwise and remove from the trailer, to expose the pipe thread on the back. 3 - Apply Teflon tape to the threads. 4- Reinstall centerpiece of water fitting using Allen wrench and snug nicely. 5 - Turn on water and notice the absence of any water leak. 6 - Smile Thanks, DougI !!!! My new hero!!!!

This auction , currently running on eBay, has a good photo and explination of the aftermarket anode that will fit both brands, note that it is smaller in diameter and shorter than the factory Suburban anode: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230311078393&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

An update on the Rock Tamers. We got a new truck a few months ago (a Ram 1500), and our old Rock Tamer flaps are now too short, as they were trimmed for the lower Silverado. I found out that replacement flaps can be ordered from Enkay in Colorado for $30.00 each (black) or $45.00 each (chrome), plus shipping. You don't have to buy a whole new Rock Tamer system. Note: I tried contacting Enkay (parent company) by internet, but didn't get an answer for several days. Phone calls are answered promptly. 800-545-1894. The whole Rock Tamers system is still much less thru Costco online, or Cabela's, than by ordering direct. Sherry

Just an update on the orginal idea. Put about 1500 miles on this idea this week and it worked fine. I had a little concern that this would cause the cover to fit a bit differently, but it stayed in place on some rough roads.

Hello to All, I just want yall to know that every time I read the posts it costs me about $100. Such good ideas are presented that I have to go get whatever is suggested so that when I finally get to pick up my Oliver I can be ready! In all seriousness, thanks for the dialog. The discussions on the various topics are tremendously helpful. I was planning on getting my Oliver during the Xmas holidays (the first time I have any holidays) but Robert asked if I could wait since the factory is upgrading or somethin' I told him that was fine. Hopefully it will be good weather in March when I travel to Tennessee. Agony!!! Doug - you and Geneva are just up the road. How bout if I borrow yalls for a while? Just kidding! In all seriousness, thanks again for all the discussion. Jam49

IMO, solid as can be. No sway control necessary.

Herm, Geez, for some odd reason I thought all these years that you got 20 lbs. of gas in a 20 lb. cylinder. Thanks for the info. You raised an interesting question, so I weighed the one Kevlar "20 lb" tank we have that's empty. 12 lb. Full, 30 lb. If the steel tank only holds 17 lbs as you suggest, it means our kevlar tank holds an extra pound of gas, while overall is still five pounds lighter. (I don't have an empty steel tank to weigh, so I'm going to check next time... I wonder if I'm getting even 17 lbs of gas, now.) Plus the Kevlar tanks are guaranteed not to rust, and it is helpful to be able to look at the tank and know exactly how much gas you have. Obviously, since Suburban charges us the same to fill any "20 lb tank", we're getting a much better deal using the kevlar tank. Wish I could find Tractor Supplies everywhere... They actually meter what goes into your LP tank, and you can take a half full tank in and be charged for ONLY the half tank they fill. Sherry And, I agree... the kevlar tanks do look cool, and easy for me to carry, empty or full. Sherry

In case anyone's interested, I ended up deciding on the Samsung LN22A650. I eliminated the LG due to lack of audio outputs, and I was able to purchase the A650 for less than the similar A450. In case anyone else is worried about the "touch of color" thing (as I was), it's pretty subtle. I'll know more about how well the TV interacts with the mount next week when we pick up the Oliver.

Sherry, this is the product referenced in a post by Doug I a while back. Is that what you were looking for? I also had Oliver upgrade my tanks to these for the weight and rust reasons you mention, though perhaps the weight advantage is minimal based on what you've just reported. Since I don't expect needing to fill the tanks while on the road, the loss of the exchange capability was unimportant to me. Another thing I'm unsure about is whether the two "20 lb." tanks have the same capacity. The Lite Cylinder lists a net capacity of 19 lbs., while I believe that standard steel tanks only hold about 17 lbs. If that's true, then I might not be saving any weight; however, the lack of rust and ability to visually monitor propane level is still reason enough for me. Plus, they simply look cool!

Not sure about how to protect against nicks and stratches other than staying in one spot. I use a good quanlity marine was, like Scotchguard products. Runs about $25 a bottle and you might get one and half applications out of a bottle. I have been very impressed, I waxed my Oliver over a month ago and it still feels as slick as the day I applied the wax. You can rub out light scratches with something like 3M's Marine Restore. How has your Oliver held up on the outside to road debri like gravel? Do you see a lot of nicks? I had a truck that was getting chewed up by gravel on the back fender and found this clear vinyl tape that was about four inches wide. I applied it to where the gravel would hit and once applied was pretty much invisible and solved the nick problem.

Herm, I ran to Best Buy during lunch and I think I have changed my mind on the tv choice. Samsung has a white version in the 400 series(very close to the 450), however it is a 19", is in a white lacquer finish(would blend into the Oliver interior vs stand out like a black set), and it is a true 16:9 ratio. It has all the conections needed and I'm thinking 19" will be big enough for watching a movie in the evening. The set will never get used during the day hours, as that time is for flyfishing, etc. My folks have this same set in their hobby room and it works great. Specs: http://www.samsung.com/us/system/consum ... 1_spec.pdf So, that is where I'm at as of now. Going to sleep on it and will make the final decision tomorrow. Kyle

Kyle, I haven't personally seen the LN22A650 yet, but I did compare the LG and the A450 today at Best Buy (both selling for $450). Are you also getting the same mount? Though I consider Samsung to be a better brand, I think I might be going with the LG primarily due to the smaller overall dimensions. The A450 appeared to have a slightly better image, but I didn't have time to adjust the picture settings to make an accurate assessment. In terms of connections, the LG lacked RCA audio outputs, but I don't anticipate using anything other than the built-in speakers (unless there's an auxillary input on the Jensen stereo?). The one thing that sort of bugs me about the options in this size range is that the resolutions are based on PC displays (1680x1050 in this case), and this is not a true 16:9 aspect ratio, resulting in black bars on the top and bottom when displaying HD broadcasts. Herm

Ours works great Also Sherry, but if we could only get that controller to Migrate to the appropriate vehicle when the Oliver is hooked to it ! Like you guys, our boat has it's own dual axle surge brake system and doesn't require the controller. Our old boat is sitting in the boat shed calling for water now, or, that is what I am telling Butcherknife ! Here is a look at it. Ain't it plumb pittiful sittin' there on the dry land like that ! http://www.geocities.com/harmsweigh/

With all of the amenities available for the Oliver it seems to be getting very close to the gross vehicle weight rating if all of the storage tanks are full. Is it possible to have it made with a heavier duty axle? They are actually doing this. Jim has some 5800 pound (ok. I might be wrong about the exact amount, I just saw them once, but at least 5000 pound) rated axles that he says they are going to be putting on the Oliver in the future. He said that they looked into it because of the rock collectors that had Olivers. He has some at his house here that we are going to swap onto our trailer. We are just waiting for the weather to cool down before we do, and then I can tell you more details and post pictures. The factory probably has more information about them.

The Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC) of the Oliver is about 1,000 pounds, which is remarkable for a trailer with an empty weight of about 2,500 pounds. There are 30 plus foot fifth wheels and trailers that don't have much more CCC than the Oliver, and if you fill up all their holding tanks at the same time, they would be way over their GAWR. Doug

I've always had the best results positioning the booster in a window or outside when feasible. - Cherie

Thanks to you all for the responses! I checked, and yes, indeed, the "curved air flap" venting material that you have described was positioned in such a way as to totally block the vent, forcing all of the heat from the refrigerator to remain in the cabin! I have repositioned it in a way to direct the heat out of the cabin through the vent, but I think I will need to check this from time to time. I also will get some insulation and put it behind the vent, as suggested by Mountainborn. Great idea. Thanks again, Steve

Have owned several brake controllers thru the years, always a Tekonsha, this time the Prodigy... Stuart, VERY wise about the mounting position.

Chris, we chose the Tekonsha Prodigy. Though not their newest or most expensive, we felt that it was "tried and true" technology. It's digital readout does a system check and gives a code that all is ok. Should something go bad on a trip, like a brake solenoid shorting out, which would result in uneven braking, it will give that failure code. The prodigy mounts in most places that are convenient and electronicly "self levels" for it's center of adjustment point. For night driving the led display is large enough to see easily, yet not too bright. Locating it anywhere within arms reach seems to put the various controls and adjustments at the fingertips.

What are the height and width dimensions for the furnace plate? I am wondering if an Olympian Wave catalytic heater, which comes in three sizes, could be installed in place of the furnace. I was going to have the factory leave the furnace out - hoping to get some extra storage space. But I changed my mind once they told me that it would require a lot of expensive custom work to redesign the cabinets and drawers to take advantage of that space. Currently, leaving the furnace out would just result in a wasted space and a blank white patch of wall. - Chris

The Camping World catalog lists the Coleman Polar Cub at 8,300 btu, not 9,200. It list the amps at 8.0. I suppose one of those facts is false, but which one? Actually, as I understand it - they are both true. Coleman has over time made both an 8,300 and 9,200 btu model. The model that Oliver is using is the 9,200 btu model. Based on my research, it has gotten great reviews. - Chris

Hey, Chris & Cherie ! Many years ago in a far away place in S/E Asia, I spent way too many hours in a Huey Heilo, sitting in the area near the reduction gears. I have a hearing defficiency in that gear whine's audio spectrum. It makes the surround sound a cool thing, for these tired old ears to be able to hear all of the sounds in a movie. Ours works well for our needs at this time. However, . . . . Your research into other systems will be appreciated as my condition slowly goes "down hill". Something that you recommend may well be the ticket to my being able to enjoy a movie, on down the road somewhere. Keep on a' diggin' buddy, your efforts are appreciated !