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Choosing platinum vs pro depends so much on how, where, and when you intend to use the trailer, which I realize may be difficult to know before you set out on your first trips. Things to keep in mind include the following (1) the batteries like to be drawn down from time to time (they don't like staying at full charge); (2) solar produces about 20 amps in full summer sun, but the sun isn't overhead all day (therefore, by example, 8 hrs at an average of 15 amps yields 120 amp-hours), and substantially less when cloudy (e.g., 5 amps for 6 hours yields 30 amp-hours), in shade, or in shoulder season months; (3) A/C draws about 100 amps from the batteries, so 1 hour of A/C use draws the batteries down 100 amp-hours; and (4) your compressor fridge (based on our experience with a smaller compressor fridge in a Sprinter van) might use between about 40 and 60 Amp-hours per day (perhaps someone with a newer trailer will verify this). So the "practical" differences depend on you you use the trailer. If you plan on using lots of A/C without shore power, or lots of microwave and TV, go big. If you plan on having shore power every 3-4 days, or camped without shore power in the sun, and can get by with modest electrical use, then platinum will likely suffice. We've used our 2021 trailer (with 390 Ah lithium) over 12 months in the last 3 years, covering about 20,000 miles. Our electrical demand from the batteries is primarily for lights and CPAP, with occasional A/C use at rest areas when it's hot. Our state of charge (SOC) typically remains above 70%. During shoulder seasons or with lots of rain, we might hook up to shore power every 4-5 days to recharge the batteries, but could usually go longer if we wanted. One benefit of hooking up to shore power is that we can also use our electric heater, which is quieter than the propane furnace. Another benefit of hookups (some very nice state and provincial parks have hookups) is that we don't have to listen to other people's generators. I try to top off the batteries (i.e., charge them to 14.4V) with shore power every 2 weeks, at a minimum. Not infrequently, we hook up to shore power to run the refrigerator on AC, but don't charge the batteries (because charging is noisy). I cycle the batteries periodically (draw them down to the cut-off voltage and then charge them to 14.4V); this would take longer with the larger batteries. We do not carry a generator (which avoids the extra weight, fuel, and noise), and, with a bit of battery management, have not needed one. We do carry an extra solar panel for when the trailer is in the shade. So, our example is but one of many scenarios, and practical differences between batteries will, in my opinion, depend on how, when, and where you hope to use your trailer. Hope this helps.

Dog stirring up dust or dander?

Welcome to the family! I’m answering from the road, on my phone, so pardon my brevity: I own the 2022 Elite II, twin bed, upgraded mattress, solar (3 lithium batteries), composting toilet, convection microwave, the convenience power connection up front, and a front basket. I tow with a 2500 HD truck and a 2-5/16” hitch ball, so I didn’t need the Anderson hitch. I chose 20# propane tanks, after I learned what they weigh when full. I love everything about my Oliver; no regrets on any of my choices. If there’s an option for backup camera size, I’d recommend larger. TOYS & OTHER EQUIPMENT: I am shopping generators. During my first OTT plant tour yesterday, Josh mentioned a newer model Honda 3200i that is smaller (fits in basket) and DUEL FUEL. It sounds pretty decent. I haven’t researched it yet. I bought the “Sand Mat” and love how it lets dirt and sand pass through. Look for sales, or used on REI. It’s not light weight, but comes with a storage bag. I have several electric adapters: 50 to 30, 15 to 30, and I’ve needed both for various purposes. Torque Wrench is a must (mine is hand powered, easy to use and lives under my back seat in the truck.) You might need to buy the right size fitting. This summer I’ve added: COOKING: a Blackstone 17” propane griddle (great thread on this forum will give you lots of options and ideas); a third 20# propane tank in the back of my truck; a Duxtop electric Induction cooktop (has two model numbers on the box! BT-200DZ and 9610LS). COMFORT: a DREO space heater model DR-HSH004-G that can run at eco setting using the battery (I never leave it on, as I didn’t need it running all night, including during 20+ degree temps, as I had winterized my trailer.) MAINTENANCE: a grease gun with extra fittings (see Jason’s excellent service video on Oliver Travel Trailer YouTube channel plus forum threads on greasing Zerks); a small mirror on a handle, to see some of the zerks, and other equipment in small spaces; a Combustible Gas Detector. EDIT: I almost forgot to mention, I’m from SW Florida and I cannot store my trailer at home. I opted not to buy the cover, and I rent a covered space in a secure storage facility. It’s north and inland from where I live, and it was worth the expense, as my Oliver didn’t suffer from Hurricane Ian last year, and was protected from UV. I’ve been on the road since early July (and I’m not home yet). I’ve only needed to empty my compost solids twice.

It's a great help. TYVM. As you and others have requested, I'm gonna take a swipe at pigeon-holing our "camping style". We are basically doing this to go to national parks. Or things that look like and feel like national parks. The plan is to visit in seasons when tent-camping would be pleasant (not too hot, not too cold). But we want to do it with a bit more comfort and safety than car-camping has provided us. Once there, we want to day-hike until our feet give out, then have an inviting base camp for recharging. We realize we have to accept certain limitations (65 ain't 35 and money don't grow on trees, etc.). But, for the first time in our lives, time is not one of them. So, long road trips with many (interesting) stops can replace fly-overs with quick turnarounds. And when we get to the places we love, we want to stay until we are sated. Instead of a couple of days at 1 park, more like a couple of weeks. I fully expect to be in the Ollie 100+ days per year. I'm OK with having to find facilities (electric, dump station...) more or less on a weekly basis. In fact, when it's not too limiting, even more frequently. Many of the campgrounds we've loved over the years have electricity & water at least. But we would also like the ability to unhook for at least several days at a time (we would NOT be running the AC for long during such periods). I do NOT want to stay in a paved parking lot, bumper to bumper with a million other trucks and RVs. But I will, if it's a pit stop on the way to the next beautiful place or it happens to be across the street from a hike I want to take.

Reach out to Patriot in this regard. He bought one of these and did a fair amount of research on it prior to the purchase. Bill

One "final" thing to check - though unlikely: The plumbing valve under the kitchen sink area could be stuck thus letting grey tank "fumes" into the cabin. Take the kitchen drawers out and tap on the valve to make sure that it isn't stuck. Bill p.s. let us know the outcome.

To topgun2’s point, I make use of a digital water flow meter connected directly to the dump station’s water spigot, next a hose valve to control flow, then a dedicated 25’ Zero-G hose with a quick disconnect to the black tank rinse-out port inlet. This assembly is rolled up and stowed within the rear bumper compartment when not in use. Prior to dumping the black tank, I setup this rinse hose assembly; the dump station hose is removed from the spigot regardless of condition. Once the black tank is initially dumped, the black tank valve is closed. I then zero out the meter, open the hose valve, then measure 10-12 gallons before dumping the rinse water; the hose valve remains open during this rinse dump process. When complete, the black tank dump valve is again closed, the meter is zeroed out and water allowed to fill to the measured amount. This rinse cycle is repeated up to three times. The use of the meter does not require having to go in and out of the OTT to monitor the tank level, which is not accurate, especially with the tongue raised to better hasten the dump.

Was it windy, with the wind blowing against the fridge side of the trailer? Fridge on propane? There have been reports of wind blowing Norcold fridge exhaust fumes through the control panel into the cabin and triggering the alarm.

Completely unscientific but I've done it for years: fill tank with flusher for 45 seconds, pull valve and rinse for 30, repeat for 3 cycles.

Btw, do you have a dog with you?

If yours in the same spot as ours (under the small dinette), fumes can get trapped and linger. You could try running a fan, on exhaust, under the table before bedtime, not all night.. You could also try vacuuming the face, or cleaning the face with a damp (not wet) corner of a microfiber (not cotton) towel, and thoroughly drying it. (While you're at it, wipe down the area under the table.) Then the fan, on exhaust, for an hour or two. Do run the exhaust fan in the bathroom for night time visits. Your newish propane detector shouldn't be doing this, but, it has happened. Could be defective. If simple measures don't give relief, open a service ticket.

Wonder if you could ride inside it? Wife took the truck into town and you want something from the camp store? No problem! Just drive your trailer down to the store! LOL! I'd do it just for the reactions. Drive it down your row of campsites and watch the look on your neighbors' faces as the random trailer rolls past. Probably best that I don't buy one......

This post is offered in the hope it will help someone else avoid my dumb mistake. It has been my practice to flush the black tank after dumping using the black tank flush inlet port below the bathroom window. I carry a separate black-colored hose just for this purpose. In the past, I have always left the black tank drain valve open when flushing. At the conclusion of our most recent camping trip, after a first flush with the drain valve open, it occurred to me that I might get a more complete flush if I mostly filled the black tank with clean water through the flush port first (which required that I close the black tank drain valve) then let gravity force the contents of the mostly full tank out the drain. To avoid overflowing the black tank, I carefully watched the Seelevel monitor, then ran outside to turn off the hose bib when the Seelevel black tank monitor hit 90%. I then opened the black tank drain valve to drain the black tank contents. Out of an abundance of caution, I decided to verify that this process had caused no overflow from the black tank. I removed the access cover from the front dinette seat so I could see the aft part of the black tank. Good thing I checked! When I saw a few tablespoons of water in the bottom of the trailer just aft of the black tank, I realized that our Seelevel monitor is not 100% accurate, and that even though I turned off the hose bib when it read 90%, the black tank was actually full of water! Fortunately, the overflow was limited to a few tablespoons, which were quickly mopped up. When I got home, I sprayed that area, twice, with Lysol disinfectant spray, in case that bit of water leakage was contaminated. The moral of the story: when flushing the black tank, always leave the drain valve open. Fortunately, my momentary lapse of judgment (it seemed like a good idea at the time...) occurred after a complete drain, then a first flush with the drain valve open. So, the minimal overflow should have been mostly clean water, which was easily dealt with. I expect it would never occur to most people to leave the black tank drain valve closed to mostly fill the black tank when flushing, just to get a more complete cleaning. But if any of you folks, like me, ever think of trying that method: don't! It's not worth the risk of an overflow.

They're taking deposits now. Some ideas mirror the recent electric Airstream prototype but in a very different implementation. Specs on their site (2nd link). Will be interesting to see if they succeed. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/pebble-flow-electrified-camper-hitches-itself-pulls-its-own-weight/ https://pebblelife.com/pebble-flow

Frank, I will share with you and the rest of the group all the information that was passed on to the Moderator team on 10-20-2023. Then you guys will have as much information as we have. This came from Top Management through Matt Duncan. The reason your screen capture picture above shows as having been posted by myself on August 17 is because when they closed the classified section, the moderators were locked out as well. I wanted to be able to let the current owners that had advertisements posted what the situation was, but I had no access to enter a post with the information. What I did was revive an old, deleted post (obviously from August 17), delete all the information in it and past in part of what you see below. I DID NOT know in August that this was coming. "Just wanted to give everyone a heads up we have locked the Classified Forum up to prevent future postings. As we are moving forward with the initiative to start selling through dealers, it is in our best interest with those potential dealerships to not promote (or appear to promote) the sale of used trailers for sale on the forum. We will leave the Classified Section up for a period of time with the following announcement and allow all existing Used Oliver Travel Trailer postings to expire. Beginning October 20, 2023, members of the forum will no longer have access to post Used Oliver Travel Trailers for sale and other products for sale in The Classified section on our Forum. If you are interested in selling or buying an Oliver Travel Trailer, we encourage you to use one of the following websites or social media outlets that will help you better find a buyer or find a used Oliver for sale. RVtrader.com RVT.com Oliver Travel Trailer for Sale Facebook page If you have any questions, please let us know. Thanks for all your help and support!"

We once had an organic obstruction to our black tank, AKA a plugged toilet. I used the black tank flush valve to clean it from down below (black tank drain valve closed). When I flushed the toilet there was an air pressure explosion of the obstructing material over pretty much the entire bathroom. Oh my! We spent a while cleaning the mess. Two conclusions: #1-know that it’s a straight shot to the black tank from the toilet. Just take a stick and push the obstruction into the black tank #2-do not flush the black tank with the drain valve closed without being keenly aware of the pressure you are creating in the tank and its associated connections. (I will NEVER flush the black tank with the drain valve closed 🤠.

Primarily the torque wrench is used to check the torque on the lug nuts of your wheels. I check mine prior to leaving on each trip regardless of whether or not the wheels have been off the Ollie for any reason. I'll also check this torque once or twice during a 5,000 mile trip. If the wheels have been off the trailer - annual wheel bearing service or if they are removed for greasing the zerks on the suspension - I will re-check the torque before traveling and then again between 50 and 100 miles and then again that night (or the next morning prior to departing for the day. There are other things that should be checked/torqued (at least annually) such as the jack/stabilizer bolts, the bulldog hitch bolts, the axle bolts, etc. Bill

Hi John -- that extra wire is the connector to the air distribution panel for the limited control functions offered there instead of from the remote. None of those pins (4, I believe?) involve the thermistor. That wiring clip appears unused in the picture because the air distribution panel has been removed to access the innards. When it's all assembled, there is a corresponding end for that wiring harness on the air distribution panel side. They get connected together upon assembly so that the display panel and controls will work. The "hot poker stick through the Styrofoam" approach wasn't hard and it allows the factory thermistor to remain in place as a backup. I'm going to test the auxiliary thermistor more on Saturday and report back here once that's done. Fingers crossed!

Florida state parks have a 50 per cent discount, for Florida residents, from a few days ago, until January 13. https://www.floridastateparks.org/learn/florida-state-parks-annual-pass-discount

Were we 20 years younger, I'd likely be on a plane to check that one out. Hope they bring the prototype to the Tampa rv supershow. I think that's one cool trailer. Love the rising/lowering nose cone for aerodynamic efficiency. Single axle, for 6200 lb ? The twin skinny front wheels wouldn't be great on our mountain property, but probably fine at home with the integrated self drive. 45 kw battety is amazing. Some great design minds. We'll see how it works for them.

Just make sure you time it! 🤣🤷🤣

Unfortunately, not everyone has the skills and tools to do that. Glad for you that you can.

Sadly, this is why I don't use RV service centers. I choose to do the work myself.

UPDATE: Three cheers to Oliver’s Service Department! My propane leak was a loose connection at the propane stove. They detected the leak, there was no debris or issues with flare, they simply had to tighten the connection. (That Riverside RV Service Center in Bismarck should be ashamed. I went all summer without using my propane because they didn’t detect the leak that I suggested was coming from the stove.) OTT also fixed damage I had, resulting from the handling at Riverside Service Center. And OTT also managed to squeeze me into their schedule for an annual maintenance. So hats off to Jason and the team!

I view Sharkbite fittings as an emergency plumbing part. I keep a couple of 3 foot lengths of Pex and a small assortment of Sharkbite fittings in my Ollie - just in case. In the almost 8 years on the road - thankfully - I've never had to use them. Bill

This sounds great! If only I can leave in time to get there — might be too early for me to leave home, though.

I stand outside beside the trailer while filling the black tank through the flush valve. You can hear the water spraying inside the black tank. When I hear the water level in the black tank rise above the flush valve I leave the water running and just pull the black tank dump valve. I do this 2,3,4 times or as many times as it takes until I see clear water and no floaters in a clear fitting at the terminal end of the sewer hose. Only then do I turn off and disconnect the flush hose. Never had a problem doing it this way. Sometimes I delay pulling the dump valve a little just to make my wife hollar at me “Ok OK OK DUMP DUMP DUMP!!”

That is how we do it. Then we add a little Calgon and Pine-Sol to the toilet and flush a couple of times to let that work on the tank using the bumpy road travel to loosen anything and everything. I have found the roads around Lafayette Louisiana very good for this process. 🤣

Totally agree with Mike, though there is an easier method... Usually, Chris is doing her stuff and I only ask for help on a job, when I cannot do it myself. The mechanics motto! Normally, I just go with my gut feeling, on how much water would half fill the black tank. But if you were the more cautious type, you could time filling a one-gallon jug of water, given you're using an unknown water source (PSI and GPM). Then determine your black tank capacity, divide that number by 2 for 50% full, and run the hose for that amount of time. If you go less or longer NBD since you are only targeting 50%. I do this 2-3 times, until the drain water looks clear and clean. No way you want to come anywhere near full. The cr@p and TP is in the bottom 10-20% of the tank, given you empty regularly. Best wishes and keep the brown stuff downstream! 🤣

If we got ourselves into that crazy situation, I'd "probably " attach our chains to the tow,strap clip. Every situation is different. A number if years ago, we got ourselves into a sticky wicket in New Hampshire. We attached , disengagaged, and reattached several times to get a better angle, with our 4x4 dodge. I'd try that first, vs tow strap, or winch cable, or combo, imo. If you do decide on a tow strap route, please make sure the tow strap is fairly new, and rated for the job. We've broken a few, over the years, that were older. The snap back could be lethal. Got a big hole in the tailgate of our dodge ram from inadequate/aged strap, trying to haul a tree out of the road. Had anyone been in the trajectory, it could have been deadly. Everyone was in the truck. Out of the way. We are very careful about that, tow strap or winch cable. Please do the same.

We use West Marine Dri-Dek cut to fit floor. It is low and easy to lift to spray out underneath when needed. Has saved my bald head.

No shame in that. A lot of folks in your quarter. As Steve said,,share bites are ridiculously expensive, as well. We replace only what has failed. And, that's not much, over 16 seasons.

Your initial reason for closing the black tank drain valve is a good one. Your down fall was relying on the electronic gauges. My process is to stand on the toilet tank flush valve and to observe the water level in the black tank while flushing. The advantage of my 2018 OE2 is that it has a manual water shut off valve just a few feet from the toilet (Under the front dinette seat). This allows me to slow down the fill rate as the level in the black tank approaches full. Then when nearly full, I turn off the water flow at our valve. Sadly, OTT decided to not install said shut off valve on newer models. GJ

The problem you encountered is one of the reasons that some people use one of THESE versus trying to use the SeeLevel system. One of these flow monitors also reduces the need for running back and forth from outside to inside and back again. Glad the "overflow" wasn't too bad for you. Bill

Today I learned that some people have "liked" some of my posts. (OK, I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, I guess. 🙂 ) So, I went back and mindlessly, belatedly clicked TY for each of the replies I've received. Believe me, every word is very much appreciated as we prepare to take this leap.

Not only are lithiums a perfect match for solar - they're also a perfect match for a DC/DC charger... Your TV's alternator generates a goodly amount of current (probably north of 180Amps) which cannot make it to the lithium bank via the standard 7-pin connection. The DC/DC charger allows the lithiums to charge with that current produced by your TV while traveling in addition to the solar (if you're pulling during sunny times of the day).

We have a Diamondback cover on our truck. It's secure and you can strap things on top of it (you can walk around up there). We added racks to carry our bikes or whatever (tank tote, firewood, etc.).

We started with the Bakflip @topgun2 mentioned...also got a spray in liner. The bed-rug is also a great ideas (ask my knees!). We ended up with an ARE truck topper which we prefer - but there are loads of pros and cons between toppers and tonneau covers. We were happy with the quality of the Bakflip, Need to consider all uses of your two vechicle for a decision that works best for you all.

I have had a Bakflip MX4 tonneau cover on each of the Ford F-150's I've owned. Assuming that your tailgate can be locked then these covers offer a bit of lockable security and can be closed with the tailgate either open or shut. The cover also folds towards the cab such that basically the entire bed is available for things like carrying motorcycles, mulch or high items without the need to remove the cover entirely. I've also always had a spray-in bedliner in my trucks. This helps with grip, rust and cleaning (simply power wash it). However, I have also always then purchased a "bed-rug" for at least the floor and tailgate. These items reduce noise from the bed but more importantly make kneeling in the bed of the truck much easier on your knees. Bill

I think a few have. Imo, you'd be better off to get the solar option, and upgrade batteries if you found the need.

Can't imagine anyone doing that (?). Lithium batteries and solar are a perfect match because lithium takes a charge so easily. The bulk of the expense is the batteries. You wouldn't save much by deleting the panels and controller.

Absolutely correct - just giving examples of propane usage. Yes, these are the "averages" that I've read about also. However, my current lead acid batteries are still running strong going into their 8th year! Bill

All Olivers come standard with a surge protector. And all Olivers use a 30 amp electrical connection - not 15/20 amp and not 50 amp. Of course, you do know that if you have a 30 amp connection to shore power you can still use a lower amperage connection. However, you can not run all the things in your Oliver (i.e. microwave and air conditioner) at the same time if you are on the lower amperage supply. With regards to how long a bottle of propane will last (particularly running the air) - that depends. How hot is it outside, how cool do you want it inside? what other things are you using propane for - cooking, hot water, fridge? Perhaps what you are really asking is, "in typical usage, how long does a 20 pound tank last?"?. Or, should I really get the 20 lb tanks or the 30 pound tanks? I can run my fridge on one 20 pound tank for about 6 to 7 weeks. But, during this time I'm usually camped at altitude where the average temps are cooler and I usually camp solo, so, there isn't a bunch of opening and closing the fridge. I also use a solar shower for heating shower water except for those times when its cloudy and I use a Mr. Heater propane heater for taking the chill off those frosty mornings (this saves both propane and electricity - don't run the furnace blower). While I agree with the two comments above relative to learning - don't be discouraged! We all had to start this journey someplace and most of us are still learning. Bill edit addition: I forgot to mention the 20 versus 30 lb tanks. Obviously if you get the 30's then you will not have to get them refilled as often and you have 33% more with you. This 33% really matters if you plan to do a bunch of winter camping in cold weather. However, the downside of the 30lb tanks is that they MUST be refilled at a business that does this sort of thing. With the 20lb tanks you can "swap" them for other tanks at most grocery stores, gas stations, hardware stores, Lowes, Home depot OR you can get them refilled just like you do with the 30's. In addition, the 20's are lighter than the 30's. It should be noted that when you "swap" the 20's, they are generally not filled to the same capacity (i.e. they are not really full) and the cost per gallon or pound of propane is generally more expensive than it would be at a refill facility. But, if you are in an area that simply doesn't have a refill facility, there isn't really much you can do with that empty 30 pound tank.

Another look at this trailer can be seen HERE. With a "powered axle" the base price is $125,000. With no "powered axle" the base price is $105,000. Bill

I think if you were to pull from the breakaway chains, then you'd be O.K. as far as applying any weird torque to the tongue - they're pretty much dead center and if you're pulling from the cables you aren't going to apply any twisting forces. I don't know what the cables and those two shackles are rated for, though. I don't think it would take much to collapse the factory tongue jack. I'd be more inclined to just drag the tongue on the ground if that's your only choice. Better would be the XO Jack like I mentioned above. It's stout, and mounted directly to the tongue. I'd have no problem at all pulling that through sand or mud. In fact if you go to their website, they have a few videos of doing just that. Personally, I think it's one of the best improvements I've made to the trailer.