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@Heather and Eric We have the convection microwave and absolutely love it. We upgraded to the convection microwave when we placed our original OLEll order, And I can tell you it really works great with zero issues regarding high oven heat. There is nothing like a roasted chicken with sides on a rainy cold night. Or the ability to heat up homemade chili or bake a lasagna while traveling. On our recent 6000 mile trip out west we used our convection/microwave a lot and we’re sooooo glad to have it. It’s hard to imagine not having a way to enjoy hot food. You can’t always rely on a campfire or grilling if there is a fire ban or it’s raining or high winds. We also carry a Weber Q1200 and it gets a lot of use as well. A quick call to Oliver will likely provide the answer you’re looking for. I would bet the conversion is not that difficult especially since your Ollie is a 2022 model. Please post up what you learn. 👍🏻😊 Happy Camping and Happy Cooking! 👨🏼‍🍳 Patriot🇺🇸

Mike, because of the catastrophic fires we’ve had in the west it’s needed, I’ve had family and friends lose everything because some ass is careless with fire. I’m surprised more states haven’t implemented similar permitting. The permits are free, and it’s a great way to educate the citizenry, and hold idiots accountable. The permit is required for just about all open flame devices, including lanterns. Visiting campers on private property are required to have written permission of the owner.

I concur. I always carry a Safe Jack 6-ton RV Jack Kit when trailering. See the thread linked below, with one caveat: I have found that the 2x6 piece into which I drilled a hole to hold the jack post broke after couple of uses. So, I adopted the suggestion of another forum member and cut most of one side off of the u-shaped attachment, so it does not impinge on the wiring just inside of the frame at the jacking point. I now use the modified u-shaped attachment, for a secure grip on the frame when using the Safe Jack. I also lower all three "stabilizer" jacks to supplement the support provided by the Safe Jack if I am ever putting any part of my body under the trailer.

I personally use the following safety procedures when ever I am jacking up Ollie for service of any nature: Keep Ollie fully connected to your tow vehicle. Nothing like having a 6,000 pound anchor attached. Flag the steering wheel as a reminder that you are connected and the TV can not be moved. Pocket any spare keys that your partner may have as further precaution. Use all three jacks to elevate the trailer only as high as necessary. Be aware of the geometry aspect of doing so, especially on the front jack. Use safety blocking at both sides of the trailer if your body is going to be under the trailer, especially if you have any tires removed. GJ: PS: No comment on using your jacks for service purposes..... This topic has been beaten to death several times already. If new, look it up.

Because we have the raised bed option in our Hull #050 and thus have an additional 28 cubic feet of storage space, we have never utilized the aisle for storage. That being said, I don’t see a thing wrong with using that space for storage while traveling. When I was in high school, I packed trucks that came to purchase items from one of the businesses that my parents owned. I got really good at it because they would continue to buy stuff until their vehicle was completely full. One thing to remember while moving down the road is that things that can move will do so 99% of the time from the rear toward the front. Pack your totes as far forward as possible. Right up against the bathroom wall is best. Keep all totes on the floor rather stacked on top of each other so they won’t turn over. Also, when packing the inside of the trailer, know that the stability of the trailer is dependent on the location of the load. Sixty per cent (or more) of the load weight should be placed in front of the axles.

@Emgmtg, I just took some no so great photos of my fins and noticed similar gaps, My guess is for easy of assembly, the cutout is a tad larger than the fins. This gap is also covered by the backing plate? Was any sealant used around the edges of the backing plate when you disassembled? Hope this helps.

First, congrats on the new to arrive family member. For a trailer jack, I recommend something like a Safe Jack in a size and with adapters that best fit your needs. I also always have a piece of plywood that can be used as a stable base for the bottle jack if you’re in gravel or loose dirt. Edit: there is a thread that shows shower curtain mods that I believe are better than the OTT design. I like the mods that use boat rail tubing and fittings.

Kirk, we use the flat pad accessory.

This is a picture of the first MultiPlus installed in a LE2 that I am aware of. This is a link with more details. Mossey

Given that yours is a 22 i dont think itd be too much of an issue, i believe the only venting that is used comes out the top and bottom on the front facia of the convection microwave on mine. just check with oliver they can probably even sell you everything needed to do it. I love mine and use the oven function quite regularly moreso than the microwave. if it ever gives out i may even try and forgoe the microwave alltogether and find a propane oven or just a toaster oven.

Since I didn’t do the installation, I don’t have any background on what Victron recommended for the mount. It is mounted horizontally under the driver side bunk, along the aisle. BTW, ours is a 2000W.

Forgot about the microwave framing and drawer framing. All protected.

One of the concerns about installing a microwave / convection oven is the ability to allow any extra heat between the hulls to dissipate. Many hulls did not come with adequate vent holes in the cabinet walls to enable the heat to escape. While the oven does vent heat out of the front, there is a concern about any extra heat trapped between the hulls. Fortunately, The Wonder Egg - Hull #14, has extra vents in the side walls behind the oven, so I have gone to the micro/conv. option. The unit is deeper than the oven it replaced, so a plenum was added to accommodate the extra depth, resulting in a minor loss of space on the "chopping block" in front. It cooked a fine, crispy chicken once. Woohooo! Should you go with that option and your trailer does not have cross ventilation behind the oven, you may consider adding some before making that modification. How many, and how large, is up to you. I would think the more, the merrier.

The Xantrex inverter in our 2018 LEII failed, and was replaced with a Victron by the previous owner. I mentioned this to the RV tech who is readying our new truck to also carry our Northern Lite TC, and he mentioned that they no longer recommended Xantrex because of a high (10%) failure rate.

Don’t forget, if you’re camping in California, it’s almost time to get next year’s free California Fire Permit if you’re planning on having a campfire, or using any type of flame emitting device for outside heat, cooking or light.

I think we’re all sailing in muddy waters!

Congrats on the upcoming birth! I agree with Bill’s comments. - I’ve used the onboard jacks numerous times to get the tires off the ground for various reasons. - We have the regular toilet (NH not available in 2015), but I think you want to keep your composter as dry as possible. - We titled our babies in the states they were born in, one in Georgia and one in Hawaii. Our trailer is titled in Texas.🤪 - Call Lake Guntersville State Park and make a reservation, the park will be full for the rally. You can cancel or offer you space to late comers if you decide not to attend. Registration with Oliver is separate, they haven’t opened it up yet. Have fun learning about babies and Olivers! Mike

Congrats! Heck of a way to get the new year rolling. I either use the on board jacks in emergency situations and/or the jack that came with my truck. As with any jacking situation, much depends on the location, the surface that the jack will sit on, the weather, the time of day, how far you will need to jack the trailer up, etc.. There are also jacking aids made for tandem axles trailers like THESE and, of course, you can always use combinations of other things you might have on hand anyway like 2x6's or "lego" leveling blocks, Andersen like leveling ramps, etc.. In all cases, the usual safety precautions prevail! I don't have one of those "fancy" things. However, I believe that this topic has been discussed previously here on the Forum - you might try the Search function. I assume that you are talking about your new Ollie 😄. Hopefully one of our Florida members will chime in here and give your the scoop. Past that I think a review of your State's regulations online will get you the answer you desire. I'd go ahead and make your reservations for a camping spot now. I don't remember exactly what the Lake Guntersville State Park's policy on cancellations is but I do know that it is very reasonable which should allow you plenty of time to cancel if you need to. Once the registration process for the Rally itself is announced (HERE on the Forum) you can register and, once again, cancel if you need to. There are places fairly near the State Park (and even within the State Park) where you could camp at the last minute (Mostly boondocking as far as I know). But, that could be a bit more risk than you might want to take given the new member of the family being along. Bill

Thanks Steve Intend on filing this away, hopefully for a long time. Hope our Xantrex will function for years to come.

Last year I got Twist a hand held vacuum. Because I already had other Ryobi items in my shop I bought one of THESE. It works well, is easy to clean out and I can use multiple batteries even though the "wall charger" it comes with does a good job of keeping it charged as long as I have my inverter on. On the negative side is the "nozzle" - it is ridged and does not have a "brush" on the end which would be better for getting down into the "groves" that are in the vinyl flooring. Bill

We are pregnant! Due date 3/13. It's a boy. We haven't named him yet. 😉 I'm watching all the parenting videos now. 1) I was surprised to learn the stabilizing jacks aren't recommended for changing a flat, yet no jack is provided. Anyone have jack advice? 2) We went with the composting pooper but no shower curtain. I was surprised to see Oliver recommends covering it with a trash bag while showering to keep it dry. I would think closing the lid would suffice??? 3) We live in FL. Anyone care to share their experience titling their baby in the Sunshine State? (We may try to do it while on the road.) 4) My wife wants to attend the next rally. But we can't commit yet. Too many unknowns.... Is it possible to attend "at the last minute"?

We went with the twin configuration and I have built a simple insert for the space between the beds for those "special" occasions..... Yes, we went with toppers, thanks again for all the help

Gotta love this comment, "once!" I never thought the microwave/convection oven was such a great idea. At home we love our Emeril Air-Fryer. Couple years ago, his small model was on sale for $100 (now $200) and I bought two at the time (it measures 19x15x10"). We keep it under the front dinette seat where it fits nicely. In fact, there's enough room down there for a small pressure cooker and Chris' blow dryer too! I have a rubber mat under it and a short appliance extension cord so we can run it anywhere, inside or outside. At 1500W it can also run off the inverter when our batteries are good. merileveryday.com/shop/air_fryer_ovens/emeril_lagasse_power_airfryer_360

Ralph: I agree with your sage advice: "don't leave home without it". Not for sway control.... Ollie has near zero. But for porposing and general handling. Your quirks comment got me a LOL. For sure for sure. To a new Anderson user, my Anderson Golden Rules are: Keep the Andersrson pin, pin hole, plate and shaft clean and lubricated. When disconnecting, loosen the big nuts all the way until the square shaft threads ends are well inside the nuts. Raising the connected Ollie/TV up with your front jack will greatly improve your effort to connect the Anderson plate. Make sure to disconnect your Anderson only with the TV and Ollie in line.. ie not at an angle with each other. Failure will result in bad words when you try to reconnect later..... GJ

OK - but it will have to wait until the next time I'm out at the storage yard - should be within the next two weeks. Bill I finally got out there this morning! Not exactly what you were asking for but I hope that the pics and measurements do you some good. This plastic bin fills the space below the forward dinette seat about as much as possible while still allowing relatively easy removal. With the bin in place I still have room for light things such as a bag or rags and a bag of individually wrapped plastic eating utensils. The top/lid snaps onto the "handles". To access the contents, I simply un-snap each side and rotate the lid 90 degrees. If I want to fully remove the lid for some reason, I un-snap the lid, rotate 90 degrees and then lift the lid out of the compartment. The measurements of the plastic bin at its largest points are: 15 3/4 inches wide - 21 inches long - 11 1/4 inches high/tall Bill

At our last service visit in October, I was told that the new bathroom door will be identical to the current closet door only with a mirror attached to it. This should/will allow the door to be made by Oliver in house. The mirror would still be out sourced and attached to door. This new door/mirror will be a more rigid door than the present one. There is a possibility of this also being a retro fit. We’ll see! 😊 Patriot🇺🇸

Our 2008 originally had a small convection microwave, with a round marine vent on each side of the cabinet. Since we rarely camp with power, it was pretty much a bread box. When it finally died, we converted the microwave cabinet space to a little "pantry." Do you actually use your microwave much? If not, you might be better off with a cabinet, and carry a small but effective toaster oven or air fryer that you could pull out and use on the counter. (A number of folks here have a small Breville. )

One of the advantages of having a vintage model!

This mod might be a bit problematical. For a number of years, owners of Ollies requested convection microwaves. Unfortunately, the reason that I was given was that the area where the microwave is located simply didn't allow for the additional heat that a convection oven would generate. I have no idea of what may have been changed such that we finally got this choice of oven - that change could have been structural and/or regulatory. In any case, if you are considering this change, I'd recommend that you make absolutely sure that it is safe before you do it. A discussion with Oliver Service just might yield valuable information in this regard. Good luck! Bill

Things have changed - a bunch - since your Ollie and my Ollie were built. At the time these were built Oliver was doing much more custom work as the units came down the assembly line. NO wiring harness was used on any of them and as a result the electrician that worked on any particular unit wasn't necessarily the same one that worked on the next unit. Not too long after ours (perhaps around hull #200?) it was decided to have ALL Ollies wired the same. This not only standardized the wiring but made it better too and made it simpler, easier and more efficient to install. In turn, this actually saved Oliver money and was better for the ultimate owner too. A win-win! Bill

At least in my Ollie - there is wood in the drawers and behind the drawers, wood on the interior of the microwave area and wood in the panel between the both and the forward dinette seat. Of course, all of this wood is reasonably well protected from water and is not part of the integral structure of the Oliver. Bill

Here's a link to the installation manual. Might help, until you hear back from Oliver. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/327956/Norcold-N400.html#product-N412

Assuming you are going to reinstall the fridge, maybe use some real insulation like the pink Owens Corning 1” foam board, that is rated R5. I am not sure if regular styrofoam has that high an insulation value. The pink stuff is fire retardant and will not absorb moisture at all. Lots of aluminum HVAC tape will hold it in place and hopefully seal the gaps. The idea is to stop outside air entry. I sure would be reluctant to foam it back like yours is now, with the spray stuff…. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-NGX-F-150-1-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-SSE-R-5-XPS-Rigid-Foam-Board-Insulation-20WENGX/315197840 You can also use that board to insulate bare spots like under the bathroom vanity. … https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9039-how-to-bath-sink-compartment-mods-duct-rework-insulation-disconnect-flush-line/ Please start a complete thread on your job, I don’t recall seeing one for the Norcold unit. Good luck! John Davies Spokane WA

After looking at the pictures that JED posted I noticed he had what looked like Styrofoam stacked on top of the refrigerator. I took off the baffle in the upper vent and mine was full of Styrofoam also but with sprayfoam in between a couple of layers. It is so tight I can't even move the Styrofoam. I guess that could be one reason I can't move the refrigerator. The only way to get the styrofoam out would be to tear it out. I guess then I would have to replace it with new styrofoam when reinstalling the refrigerator. I'm going to call the service department Monday and see what they recommend. Thanks for the help.

Note the 5000 lbs weight limit before requiring a WDH. Also, I believe the 500 lbs tongue weight maximum is on a label attached to the hitch. So both apply.

I added two motorized valves to the water lines going to the outside shower. I also added an air line to each water line with check valves (to prevent water from back-flowing into the air lines) to facilitate blowing the lines clear for winterization. The air line runs to the front of the trailer to a quick connect. I can use either the compressor system in the Silverado or a compressor at home. I also re-built the outside shower and dump valve box. Here is one of the motorized valves with the air connection prior to installation. Here's a look at the control station mounted in the basement.