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My final water upgrade, a cute minor addition! I never was much for RV outdoor showers but given the Oliver wet bath they seem more viable, when at times not wanting to get everything inside wet. Problem is you got to hold the shower head, making it difficult to take a quick shower. So, I wanted a holder for the shower head and found these: JONKEAN White Handheld Shower Head Holder with 2 Hanger Hooks, Strong Adhesive Shower Head Holder, Adjustable Shower Wand Holder Wall Mount, Bathroom Waterproof Shower Handle Holder No Drill Need - Amazon.com Comes as a 2-pack. Being 6' 2" I mounted one as high as the shower cord could extend. The second one will be down below for our dog wash! You only have to leave the clear mounting plate on the Oliver and the holder itself fits behind the outdoor shower door with the shower head. With the new water pump, the stream is now so much better!

For years, I've used a small electric heater plugged into the outlet under the dinette and sitting in the aisle. It can easily keep the inside temperature throughout the trailer at 70 or above. This is only when the trailer is at home and plugged in. Except for draining the tanks and blowing out the lines, the heater is our winterization. We'll be leaving for the desert southwest in a week or so anyway. For the rare instance that we find ourselves in a campground with electricity, I carry the small electric heater with us during the colder months.

I got some photos of the rear window. It is double paned. Looks like the track where a screen could go here: But it is blocked by the handles. The removal of the screen is obviously a safety feature providing access to the big red handles.

That is an excellent price! I only had to carry a Weber Q a few trips to learn how hard they were to clean and stow. I have the 17” BS and it has served us well; the 22”, especially with the cover and carry bag, is also travel worthy, just a bit heavier and bulkier than mine. That said, I have a 36” commercial grade SOB for home use, and the 17” is just as capable in preparing a ‘table for two’ (or three) meal when traveling. I usually stow mine either flat or upright on the backseat within easy reach, thus allowing room in the truck bed for our folding ebikes. Mine did not come with a metal lid, rather a slip cover made with to same material as the travel case. Next is a bonus tip: the base can be used to stow most, if not all, of your cooking utensils, seasonings, oils, drip pan, paper towels, foil, etc., even the hose, regulator and 1lb propane tank, if wanted. A real space saver and convenience. Breakfast is my favorite meal to prepare, with smash burgers, steaks, fajitas a close second, followed by chili dogs and grilled sandwiches. I’ll admit, camp food is the best regardless of how it’s cooked!

Heads up if you own an F 150 YM 21-23 with Trailer Tow Max Duty pkg. https://www.cnn.com/2024/01/03/cars/ford-f150-pickup-recall/index.html?fbclid=IwAR3MKc3liwv0-IrlLVP5lHD2c6N3UWCFmmq7R0wA5suIdobPxc2NVzlqSGk Check your VIN here - https://www.ford.com/support/recalls/

@Liana Oliver has moved outlets around through the years. I have one in the basement, one on the outside and five more inside the coach and that's besides the two used by the refrigerator and the microwave. Some folks have them mounted in the sides of the nightstand also. At first they would just put them wherever you wanted them, but that went away when they streamlined the assembly line to not included anything that went outside of the normal layouts.

He has a shunt. With a shunt there is only one way to connect to the batteries negative side. The positive side can have several connections. That said, in theory if you turn off/ flip the main breaker or master switch, you should be killing all battery power. But, I am thinking that maybe: If you are connected to your TV, it is possible that that TV battery (Via the 7 Pin) and especially the DC to DC charger (especially if you have the non-isolated version) WILL supply a ground path. If you have an Inverter/charger, that could provide an electrical path as well. GJ

It did, although it would be very easy to add one there by pulling power off the one under the dinette.

Our 2018 OE2 has an outlet between the bathroom door and the coat closet. Perfect for plugging in a heater. We use that outlet a lot for many purposes. Did that feature evaporate on later models? GJ

I know, right? And since we only remove the screen a few times a year to clean, it's a memory test every time to get just the right slight twist and get it into place. I'll take it, though, over a slider any day.

Compress the spring so that the straight portion touches the contact above. The rounded part of the spring will hold one end of the bulb and the other end of the bulb sits in the round opening in the bracket below, that wraps around the lens and connect to the other contact (terminal).

So long as the holes are covered by the frame from the cabin side, I see no issue. Seems like it is a normal door replacement. Now if the frame would not cover the old holes, then it becomes somewhat of a problem making them "go away". Certainly worth further discussion if your door is no longer closing enough for appearances sake and keeping shower water out of the main cabin. If not, looks like you may be a "Pioneer" on this one. Ditto TopGun. But i have only some sag. Possibly because of the "ditto". This is on my departure check list.

Thanks to all for the feedback. Seems that the power source I was plugged into was not good. All is working properly now.

I was in Costco shopping today, and noticed the Blackstone 22" , with integrated hood, cover, and propane hose for $159. I thought that was a pretty good price?

Got it - thanks 🙂

Looks like two tables to me - look at the support feet/legs. Bill

I was referring to the photo you posted and I included with my inquiry.

We never eat alone.

My LEII hull#1386 doesn’t have tank heaters! Pretty sure only some older Ollies have tank heaters, back in the day when Oliver still entertained modification request from owners.

I'll give it a shot even though I'm certainly not in the league of you electrician types. This/these fuses will "blow" if you reverse the positive/negative cables by mistake. Many years ago I did this and even though I replaced the blown fuse in the old RV, I neglected to even think that there just might be one of these in my Tacoma too. Fast forward a couple of weeks and I'm scrambling to figure out why the Taco is not charging the RV batteries. Fast forward another three days and I came upon another blown fuse in the Taco. Strange - now everything works as it should! Bill

By having the Xantrex OFF, you turned the inverter OFF, and with shore power disconnected you would have no 110V AC circuits. This does not turn off the converter/charger portion of the Xantrex. The converter was supplying +12VDC to the DC panel. The fan was running because this action creates a lot of heat, supplying 12VDC power with batteries disconnected. Similar to this scenario. Say you were off the grid for a couple of days and got your battery bank down to 50% for lead acid, or even lower with lithium. Then you arrive at a campsite and plug-in to shore power. The charger portion will work hard to recharge batteries from the newly incoming shore power and since your batteries are very low there is a lot of current supplied for charging, the fan will run on-n-off as it produces heat in the charging. I added positive and negative busbars to facilitate this. @Geronimo John added this statement; "If you have an Inverter/charger, that could provide an electrical path as well." True. I know when I installed my own solar/inverter setup in a previous RV this was certainly the case. The Bigfoot had its OEM PD9200 converter/charger and I added an inverter-only device. I installed heavy gauge battery cables, connecting the inverter to the battery bank independently. Investigating these issues would be so much easier if the Oliver pantry was not sitting above the battery bank hiding access to many of the cables. When I upgrade to Lithium in a year or two, I'll have to tear all that out, sort it out to simplify, and will then certainly gain a better understanding!

Is this one table or two?

On point Mike! Our Q1200 weber will hickory smoke and grill up baby back ribs, tenderloin steaks, chicken wings, lamb chops, trout, blackened shrimp. Just not a griddle guy here, except if we stop at a Waffle House. 😄

BTW, in the picture above, does anybody understand the term "REVERSE BATTERY FUSES?" What are they, where are they located? I have not had time to research this and have not previously read this terminology in other RV manuals. Perhaps this has something to do with the converter/charger?

Jason post up a photo if you don’t mind. No screen, hmmmm a bummer. We use our rear window screen a lot for a nice breezy cross ventilation. I am surprised to hear no screen.

I was just stating what Oliver recommended to me when I picked up my Oliver, i.e. leave the inverter off (on the inverter) and use the remote to turn it on/off when required.

The one I saw in the showroom seems identical. It does open out and still serves as the emergency exit. I assume that all of the windows are double pane. I don’t remember seeing a mechanism to keep it open at any particular angle. I think it is just made to be either closed, or to easily get out of the way for someone climbing out. I didn’t notice any writing or decals on it - just a nice open view.

The new door appears to be curved, at edges.. Our door is a rectangle, no curves. One check of "level, with our now 16 year old door, is if the bath door closes and opens easily. Out of level, not great. So far so good, but I do really like the looks of the new door!

Nice video and LED bulb.

If you use VHB consider applying a self leveling sealant around and over the foot of the base. I believe AMSolar has some YouTube videos on this.

Great news. I’m glad to hear it’s not your Ollie!😊

Our 2018 def has a sag. I asked about it last we were in Hohenwald, they said they'd have to start from scratch, which would mean filling holes in the fiberglass, drilling new ones to re hang the door correctly. This looks like the same piano hinge that's on our old ones, but I wonder, since our door is already sagging, that it might be more extensive.

same. especially when we've been in it for weeks on end in sloppy weather with our big hairy dog!

If it were me - I'd actually place the insulation (Reflectix in this case) on the underside of the fiberglass. This is fairly easily done on the two "trap" doors but is somewhat more difficult to place it on the underside of the fiberglass. If you really want to have insulation on top of the fiberglass then I'd suggest using a foam insulation panel on top of the fiberglass followed by the hyper-vent and then the mattress. While I do not have the hyper-vent product I have used a 1/2 inch insulating foam panel under my mattress without any issues for the past 8 years. If you go this route then also consider cutting pieces of the foam board for use around the edges of the mattress to insulate the mattress from the relatively cold exterior wall. When I did mine, I cut the foam board such that it was about one to two inches short of the top of the mattress so that it could not be seen nor felt when I was in the bed. I believe that it was John Davies that continued with this idea by insulating from the bottom of the windows down the wall to the bottom of the mattress so that when turning over in the middle of the night your bare arm (other body parts) would not touch the relatively cold exterior wall. Bill

Oh, yeah. Note we haven't posted any interior pics of our trailer. There's a reason for that! Yours looks great.

We were just at Oliver (New Years in Nashville)! They also changed the rear exit window to a single pane. It really is a positive change for us. With the big clear, open space without screens or any obstructions it “brings the outside in”.

Are we related?

Superstition has it that rain on a wedding day is good for the marriage. If we carry the equation further, with your situation, you are destined for decades of fun with your Ollie. I'm so glad you could maintain your sense of humor throughout your difficult situations. Happy motoring! Enjoy the heck out of that Ollie, now that you feel better.

In order to "complicate" this discussion a bit further - The remote buttons used for being able to turn on the inverter "remotely" are connected to the inverter via what looks like a telephone cable. The little contacts inside that remote have been known to become dirty over time and can make the remote basically useless. If it appears as though the remote is not working - then - try using the on/off button on the inverter itself. Bill

True....but.... As rich.dev instructs, leave the silver button on the inverter OUT (off), so you can control the inverter from the silver button on the remote. My remote is mounted about eye height just forward of the pantry on the street side. Leave the silver button on the remote OUT (off) unless you are not connected to shore power and wish to run a 120V appliance (like the microwave or a blender) on inverted power. Push the silver button on the remote IN (on position) to turn on the inverter to supply 120V power to the appliance. Depress the silver button on the remote (to release it to the OUT (off) position) when you no longer need inverted power. Turning the inverter off when you don't need it will conserve 12V battery power.

Your statements are mostly correct, but let's be a little more specific. The Xantrex unit is really two devices: a converter and an inverter. The converter takes shore power (120v AC) and converts it into DC volts to charge your batteries. This happens automatically when you plug your trailer into shore power. However, the Xantrex has nothing to do with solar charging. There is a separate device for that. You didn't post the year of your trailer, but your hull number tells me it's new. Our trailer has a Zamp solar charge system, but I think the newer units use Victron(??). Either way, there should be another control panel somewhere inside your cabin for solar charging. That system should also be passive/automatic for you. It'll work when there's sun without any interaction from you. The inverter part of your Xantrex does convert 12v DC battery power to household 120v AC for your outlets, etc. but it requires interaction from you. Turn it on (silver button pressed in) when you want 120v outlet power from the batteries. Turn it off when you don't need it because the inverter draws power from the batteries even when you're not using the 120v outlets. The green LEDs and display on the control panel tell you what it's doing. (You can press the OK button to wake up the display at any time.) Hope this helps clear it up a bit for you.

I will say that @jd1923 has some very good information in his response to your issue. I, like @jd1923, also do not under stand the 7 value in your EMS display's output. I only have 4 different values in my display and you are indicating that you have 5 values. Watch your EMS display before, during and while turning on the microwave. The display may have some different values during the error sequence. Good luck, Mossey @jd1923 and I are on the same wavelength😮. The following is from my manual. Note: If the EMS cuts the power to the RV it will show a PE code following the E code. This denotes the previous error or why the EMS shut down. Example: The EMS cuts power for low voltage on Line 1, and then the power is restored. The Error Code reads E 0, but the PE code reads PE 4 which tells the user low voltage was the reason for the EMS previously cutting power. This PE error code will be deleted when power is disconnected from the EMS. So if the 7 value is a previous error, it should follow the E0 value in the next screen and read PE 7. Mossey Edit: I removed my reference to the Xantrex inverter due to the fact that @mccc99 never mentioned an inverter in his OP. I was multitasking during the Sugar Bowl and confused myself and probably other's as well.

Riverside Campground, Gila Box Riparian National Preservation Area, Safford, AZ. BLM campground $5/nt. Worth the 3 mile drive in on mostly paved, mostly single lane road.

Humor notwithstanding, I believe this is the correct answer. It is not complicated. First, lets look at what happens when you connect to shore power 30 amp receptacle. In this normal situation, the 30 amp shore power outlet will pass a maximum of 3,600 watts continuous power to your Ollie (30 amps x 120 volts = 3,600 watts). If you turn on too many appliances in the Ollie (including battery charger and air conditioner, fridge, etc.) such that you are consuming more than 3.600 watts, then the 30 amp breaker on the shore power receptacle will likely trip. It is difficult but not impossible to to draw more than 3,600 watts in the Ollie but could happen if the batteries were charging at a 150 amp rate consuming 2,100 watts (150 amps x 14 volts =2,100), and you turned on the microwave at 1,000 watt setting, and turned on the air conditioner all at the same time, you would be trying to draw more than 4,000 watts from the 30 amp shore power outlet and the 30 amp breaker in the shore power post will trip. The only thing different when you connect to a 20 amp shore power outlet is the shore power outlet will only pass a maximum of 2,400 watts before the 20 amp breaker protecting the shore power outlet will trip. In this case, you need to be diligent to keep your continuous consumption in the Ollie to less than 2,400 watts. This is easy to do if you change the charger setting to something lower than 150 amp maximum charging rate. I almost always choose to connect to the 20 amp shore power outlet when I am just stopping for the night somewhere and not unhitching. It is less work than to having to dig into the back of the basement to retrieve the heavy 30 amp cord and put it away later. Instead, I quickly plug in using a 25 foot lightweight 12 AWG extension cord with a 20 amp to 30 amp adapter. It allows me to simultaneously charge the batteries at 80 amps (1,120 watts, the maximum my 2,000 watt inverter will do) run the air conditioner or microwave at reduced power, and watch the 120 volt TV all simultaneously without drawing more than 20 amps of shore power. I can also run all 12 volt loads (e.g., furnace, lights, water pump, etc.) that I want without increasing the draw on shore power since all 12 volt loads draw their power from the batteries. The next morning, it takes me only two minutes to disconnect and stow the 12 AWG extension cord in the back of the TV. As Rolind said above, you will probably need to back down the maximum charge rate limit setting on your charger if you connect to only 20 amps, depending on what other 120 volt loads you want to run simultaneously in the Ollie.

10 less amps. 😄

Our Elite weighs in , ready to camp, at 3960 pounds. About 400 on the tongue. We've had three sets of st tires,all of which we've replaced as "timed out" Duros,maxxis, which we loved, now, a regional brand, recommended by our local tire guy. We run 55 to 60 cold. Could run lower, but we have no issues with earthquake shaking the interior,,and a little higher pressure than necessary eliminates, in our minds,,some tire roll. We buy high speed rated st tires, as we don't love the slow lane, if we MUST drive the interstate,

It's funny, and corny, but may just be effective. After all, Escape has more views in 3 days on the bear video than Oliver's video (undoubtedly higher quality) has had in 3 months. (1.2k vs 1.1 k, at this time) And, it found a spot in its major competitor's forum, as well.

Rich, I do not - actually, when I had this done it was because I had a leaky black tank valve since I picked up my trailer. No matter what they did to adjust the cable, it wouldn't work. I asked the service department (Jason) if he would be willing to put an electric valve in when they were changing it out. He said they were actually looking into it and they would. Turned out, there was something stuck (plastic) in the valve gate when they took it out. Looked like a manufacturer's defect. I love the electric valve and asked about the gray tank as well. There is actually not enough room where the gray valve is to install the electric version and it is right on the other side of the handle so, there is not much chance of it stretching. So, I have one of each. Only trailer in the fleet configured like this. It has never leaked since. Cheers, Brian

As described by TopGun — it’s difficult to release the door, which causes the whole thing to shake and make a racket. We had them adjust it once on pick-up, and that lasted about two days, so I’m not really sure their adjustment did much. It seems to be highly dependent on just how perfectly level we manage to get. mb

So here’s my setup and I like it a lot. REI metal roll up table (Apparently they are green now) which I’ve had for over 20 years. Weber Q 1200. Torjik converter for the Weber. All works flawlessly from quick connect at front of trailer. If I want to convert back to using an unregulated propane tank I just use the adapter for the propane tank. All links below pic. https://www.rei.com/product/217993/rei-co-op-dining-table https://torjik.com/weber-q-grill-compatible-rv-quick-connect-conversion-kit-12-m-f-qc-hose/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095YDZMH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1