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My ALCAN springs arrived yesterday (Wednesday) and my RV tech installed them yesterday PM. His torque wrench failed so I brought him mine this morning so he can finish up the job. He liked the ALCAN springs and there were ZERO issues installing them. He also confirmed that at least one set of the original Dexter springs were starting to flatten out. Meaning (to me) they were on the way to failure. I will also state that the original springs had only about 5000 highway miles on them and ZERO off road miles. We depart tomorrow (Friday) for a six week, 5300 mile trek around the US so I'll report back how they ride. I did lower my PSI in the tires to 48 PSI to help soften whatever uptick in stiffness there may (or may not) be with the new springs. I'll also report what difference (if any) there is on additional lift the new springs may have provided. Paul (2 HOBOS) hull 414

Unfortunately I have had the right rear spring break last year, but with approximately 80,00 miles on said spring I’m not dissatisfied with its service life. You can get an replacement spring overnighted from etrailer, however I have had good experience with St. Louis spring. They will custom make whatever you want, in the past they fabricated two springs for a 52 year old boat trailer to my specs (1 one extra leaf,1 inch increased arch)& I was very happy with their service.

If you have two tanks, and the valve is set to auto, it will switch to the full tank. If you are completely out, the heater will shut off and throw an error code referencing the gas supply interruption.

If not, here is a great article from Jason Essary: Decalcification - Hard Water Buildup - Loss of Water Pressure (olivertraveltrailers.com)

Let's assume there is not a kink since that would likely be the worst outcome and would have been observed by the prior owner as well as OTT. The next thing I would look at is more clogs. These systems are great when they are kept up, but left in storage, mold and algae grow in the water lines and tanks as well as accumulated dirt and grime. It looks like you cleaned some of the lines and the faucets, but I would skip that and disconnect the service line where it feeds the bathroom and with bucket or large cup in hand, or a clamped hose end to extend the line outside, turn on the water pump to see if you get a marked improvement.

Whistle while you work.... and I will not finish the rest of that tune we whistled as kids in the 1960's, as Army Brats in Germany. When fossil hunting the Badlands of Nebraska... if something nice was discovered washing out of the white gumbo... I would whistle as my rock pick worked around it to wrap and stick into my slung over my shoulder pack. My wife knew I found something when I was whistling a tune. "Yesterday" by the Beatles was always popular for me to carry a tune. Now our Blue Heelers respond to a whistle with a pattern that suits ME. Not them. They have no sense of a good tune, but from a distance a whistle could mean: Food is now being served for Man or Beast. We are packing up the camp and leaving. Where are you? Over here, I found something interesting. Gold Panning... dig a deeper hole and whistle "Working in a Coal Mine..." I know of no Travel Trailer whistling tunes. Maybe someone can walk and whistle at the same time. It is a good skill set...

Now that we have realized this BD hitch is a 5000 LB Class-3 hitch with a 7000 LB Class-4 OEM-mounted label, it really has nothing to do with what was designed for an LE-I or any OTT model. As @ScubaRx has verified, all travel trailers manufactured by OTT since 2015 have specified the 7000 LB Bulldog. OTT did not install the wrong trailer part. They installed a DB hitch mislabeled by Bulldog. The question is, did OTT receive just one (1) of these defective (mis-labeled) hitches, or a few? They could be on any 2018 +/- OTT trailer. Also, what was the defective batch size? Besides OTT, what other trailer manufacturers could have received mislabeled units? OTT management should not only be monitoring this thread. They should pay for ALL of @rideadeuce's expenses and some and pay to have this defective unit shipped back to OTT as evidence. In the end, Bulldog should pay. OTT MUST make Bulldog aware of this immediately, to limit OTT liability. DB must trace this unit by manufacturing batch number and communicate a recall to all possible BD consumers.

And - you get cold until you feed that heater with more propane.😬 If you chose to NOT use the automatic feature on the propane valve then you will need to simply move the lever on the valve from the tank that is empty to the one that has propane in it - this is what I do. Then, the next time you are near a propane supplier - get that empty tank refilled! Bill

To @Jason Foster’s point, simply remove the faucet/shower head from the pullout hose at the sink and check the flow at the unobstructed hose end. This may help to determine if a clogged head is the problem.

Interesting. I have not ever heard of filtering drinking water to a toilet. The previous owner must have had some really really nasty water that broke the toilet. Or maybe their pets like filtered drinking water. GJ

Definitely this and as soon as possible. Someone out there is hauling a potentially loaded down trailer with an under-spec hitch and, unlike Rideadeuce, the failure could be catastrophic.

All of this is a function of how cold and how high you have the temp set inside. I seldom use the heat because I do not camp much during the winter. However, during my two months fly fishing trips in the summer, I routinely only use one 20 pound tank every 6 to 8 weeks. Most of that is running the fridge and on rare occasion heating shower water. If you move the lever to point towards one or the other of your tanks and close the other tank, the "window" under the lever will tell you if you've got propane (green will show) or if you are empty (red will show). However, the key is to close the tank that you are not using. This prevents the valve from "automatically" switching from one tank to the other. Yes, the automatic feature will still try, but, since the second tank is closed, no propane will flow out of it until you open that tank's valve. When the tank in use finally runs out, the "window" should turn red. Simply move the lever towards the other tank and open that tank's valve (the window should turn green). If you do nothing - ie leave the lever pointed in either direction and leave both tank's valve open, the automatic valve will automatically switch to the tank with propane in it no matter which direction that lever is pointed. Therein lies the problem. Because at this point it is up to you to remember to check your tanks for how much propane is in them such that you don't totally run out without realizing it. Hope this helps! Bill

Yep - that is why I don't use the "automatic" feature often. However, if I know that I'm running low on that first tank and the weather is not (or predicted to not be) decent, then I'll place the lever in the automatic position. This is so that I will not have to get up in the middle of the night when its cold or raining in order to switch those tanks. Bill

If I remember correctly (!) the reason some people chose not to use the auto-switch is that they might not be aware when the first tank is out of gas so to speak and then they can be surprised when the second one runs out.

My wife & I are the proud original owners of hull #219, recently we experienced a suburban furnace failure., I removed the furnace & replaced the sail and limit switches & took the furnace to a local rv dealer “Colman country campers” in Hartford Il, to bench test the furnace. They had it 2 weeks! I never authorized repairs but they put in a “new” sail switch. I was charged 2 hours labor @ $120 an hour plus the switch, when I got the furnace back I disassembled it & discovered that not only did they put in the wrong switch but it was apparently used. There’s obviously more to the story, but this post is getting long, I just want people to be wary of shady rv dealers & I look forward to having a Oliver authorized repair facility near me. Steve

Just FYI: The new springs raised the trailer about 3/4". Not noticeable unless you actually measure. My service tech was really impressed with the ALCAN springs once he had them sitting side-by-side with the Dexter springs. In fact, another customer commented how the one set of old springs had flattened out. My tech commented that was the reason I was having them changed out. I'll report on ride after I have a few hundred miles on them.

Corrosion between dis-similar metal is common in the boating world. Very common to find severe corrosion between, say, a 6061 aluminum mast pad or hardware pedistal and a bronze halyard winch if the two are bolted directly together. A thin layer of plastic between the two virtually eliminates this problem, particularly if you use an anti-sieze on bolt (typically stainless) threads. I use lanolin anti-sieze commonly found in boating stores. My favorite barrier material is easy and cheap to make. Prepare a smooth surface with mold release wax, lay a section of a light fiberglass cloth (say an 8 oz) and saturate with a laminating epoxy such as West Systems or System Three. You now have a sheet of flexible barrier material which can be cut to size as needed.

@Lisa Rae I think that judging the water flow by eye is very subjective. To accurately compare the bath and kitchen water flow you need a bucket and a timer. Start with each faucet and run hot and cold water separately into the bucket for 15 seconds, if the bucket is large enough. Then measure the accumulated water and compare the hot and cold water in each bucket. Are both the hot and cold water flows nearly the same? The next steps will require removing each component and testing against the baseline measurements. If you are happy with the water flow at the kitchen sink, move onto the bathroom. Note 1: There may be restrictive aerators in each faucet. For example, we have a .75 gallon aerator in the bath faucet but there is a 1.5 gallon aerator in the separate shower head. Our OEM kitchen faucet aerator can’t be changed. Note 2: The black fitting behind the toilet is a filter, not a pressure regulator. Mossey

@Jason Fosterthanks for the link, I will try that. @RonbrinkI did that but have no frame of reference if the flow was good or not but I guess if the pump stays on constantly and doesn't surg that might tell me if the faucet/shower head is the problem. If it is that won't explain why the water flow to the toilet is low, but one thing at a time. Thanks!

Prior to upgrading to LFPs and installing a dedicated transfer switch to enable operation of the A/C via the new battery bank, the DuroMax was primarily used for A/C (with Micro-Air Easy Start) during lunch/rest stops and off-grid overnight stays when traveling. Now it is mostly used for A/C, as needed; fueled by a dedicated 30# propane tank carried under cap in the TV. However, as with most small generators the A/C is temporarily turned off to use the microwave, otherwise it is a sufficient power source for all else, including charging the batteries. To date I have not changed the Xantrex’s setting 28 to lower charging amps as many suggest, but may give it a try to see if there is any difference.

I like donuts, but donut don't like me.

This sentence describes me to the core in everything I do.

When people ask me how I like my LE2, my canned response is, "I Love it, If you can live with the size, you won't find a better built trailer." I point out that Oliver makes two sizes and this is the bigger one. We have the king bed so when people look inside all they see is the bed and then the small kitchen/dinette area. It is functional but if we have to stay inside for bad weather it gets pretty small pretty fast. We're considering a larger trailer for when we stay for an extended time but for a month or less on the road you can't get a better unit. I wish they offered a larger unit, but alas, I expect it is no closer to reality then when I first asked about a bigger unit back in 2020. I'm told that it costs millions to R&D a new mold from drawing board to production. IMO, at this point Oliver is producing some of the best trailers on the market in their size and class. You can't beat it for the money.

In the video you included, I have the same water pressure in the bathroom as you have in your kitchen sink, so definitely not normal. You might have kink in a hose somewhere.

I still don't believe it fits. First, the Oliver in my opinion IS essential when you compare it to other worse built, more expensive trailers. It is desirable, but only by a few in the know people who want something that is built well. People who want luxury look for the extravagant and there are plenty of those around. Most of them are being sold by their original owners because they were actually junk. Oliver isn't difficult to obtain and, in my opinion, isn't very expensive. So, is an Oliver trailer a self-indulgence? Maybe, but only after having some real crap over the years. If I had just bought this trailer instead of the handful of other ones, then I would have saved a whole lot of money. Compared to that, the Oliver is really cheap.

For those who use your generator in the rain, for the most part, it will be fine. However, there might be times when water drips down onto the positive and the neutral causing an arc. This has happened to me several times. The first was a non-issue because I saw the sparking and shut it down. The second and last time, it caught the plastic housing on fire and melted my extension cord. If the generator says it isn't equipped for use in the rain, follow the directions. It might just save you something.

As I said earlier, only the Elites made between 2007 and 2009 were delivered with the 5000 pound couplers. The next Elite built by Oliver was Hull #073 delivered in 2015 and was equipped with a 7000 pound coupler. The current standard OEM for both the Elite and Elite II is the 7000 pound coupler.

P.S. I know that I've said this before - but - If you like donuts - Donut Country, GPS - 35.86087, -86.39112 is pretty good. Bill

It's the number in the casting that is most important. The strength is in the casting. The label gets added after casting of course, and after the sleeve and latch mechanism is mounted, and even later after painting. Since it is the label that was added incorrectly, btw, makes this a BD defect and not an OTT assembly mistake, since upon installation the label would be most apparent, and no technician would think they'd have to check two manufacturer markings to be certain of application. Thank goodness ours has 7000 LB on the casting and label. This is in a way a one-off defect, but what is unknown is the batch size. Did Bulldog make just one of these (likely not), or did they produce 100s like this in their manufacturing process? Bulldog must act quickly and communicate a recall.

The last address I have for CGI and the place where they did my ceramic coating is: 1639 Richland Richardson Road, Murfreesboro, TN and the GPS coordinates for the property are : 35.85165, -86.28862 But, note that this exact GPS location is for the RV that is sitting on the property and it is located 75 yards or so to the west of the frontage road. On Google Maps the current satellite image does not show the building that is used for the majority of the work done during the coating - that building is now located to the west of the RV in what appears (on Google Maps) to be a plowed field. Again, make sure that this is the current location/address that the guys are using. Bill

You could mount a receiver in the corner of the front basket, to drop the handle of a golf umbrella into when it rains. ☺️

Make sure that you get SPECIFIC instruction as to the location. They are not very far out of the center of Murfreesboro but they are on a rural road and it is fairly easy to miss the "entrance" into the property. A good look at Google maps with the Satellite view will help. Tell the guys "hi" for me and see ya at the Rally! Bill

That is why I put my pair of dual-fuel Champion generators in the bed of my pickup, under the truck canopy, when it is raining. Even though I don't have the optional front 30A power connection, I have a 50-ft. 30A power cord that will reach the 30A connection on the driver's side of the Elite II.

I would be more concerned (depending on ambient conditions) with the generator overheating with a tight fitting cover. Something like an umbrella like cover vs an enclose would be my preference.

Very nice! I watched some of their videos on youtube it's quite impressive to say the least. They also sponsored this years Owners' Rally.

It's unnecessary use an external regulator, given the 40 PSI inline regulators. There will be some who will warn against going to higher PSI. But honestly, design engineers can be so dumb at times! Why would OTT install a 45 PSI regulator on the City Water line, but install a 55 PSI water pump? Why does the Fresh Water inlet need one at all? Pressure cannot build up in that line, since the fresh tank is vented via an overflow. Just the reason why it takes long to fill the tank. Now I understand why we have better pressure using the internal water pump vs. the City Water line! Thank you for this. You could not possibly remove the dozens of PEX elbow and other connector fittings, but if I can remove 2-3 from hot and cold lines showing in the vanity, I certainly will, to open and soften the flow. Haven't looked in there yet. We just got back from Casa Grande AZ, where the afternoon temps were high 70s. I did a couple outdoor showers since the pressure was better (and to not get the bathroom wet)! We carry an extra 35 gallons potable water in a truck mounted stock tank. We like to boondock for a week with all the water with good pressure as possible!

Nice work!

The back flow or check valves are on the tank fill and city water inlets. They are under the floor of the basement/storage area in my 2017 LE2, in the area your diagram shows. Please keep us updated on your success or failure in troubleshooting your water flow issue. Mossey

Yup that’s the factory heat duct, comes std with the truma varioheat furnace/heater.

Greetings all -- I'm going to reignite this thread, after a brief exchange elsewhere about amateur radio. I hope that additional hams will join this thread. I'm still working to assemble the equipment I need to take my shack on the road, but getting close. I use a Yaesu FT991A, and plan to make home brew antennas. I also have an HT that I purchased used; I'm still learning to use it. No antenna on the TV. Most of my time this winter has been dedicated to study and practice with my local ARES (Amateur Radio Emergency Service); we have an excellent group here and I consider myself very fortunate to have so many experienced operators sharing their wisdom. Once I get on the road again, I hope to find local nets as I move around, and will try to connect with other Oliver hams when I can find you. I'd love to hear from more hams with information about their favorite equipment for travel (whether mounted in the Oliver or not). Photos are helpful! I'm really sorry that I missed the presentation at last year's Oliver rally. 73 KN4NBV

Ditto!

Supply and demand, Honda supplies us with what they want and demand we buy it. Since they are "Honda" people will buy it, just like other big big manufactures like Apple. BTW, I own both Honda and Apple products, and sometime get frustrated with them both. But the quality is there.

Have you ever done the full decalcification on your trailer?

Might be a y, not easy to tell from photo, but y capacity is still only 3600. The stout electric motors can surely pull more, but at what long and short range expense. Def not an x, based on door handle configuration. Not a safe combo for that big airstream, imo. We have a hitch on our tesla x, but choose not to tow. We have two perfectly capable trucks. Predictable. Battery chemistry continues to evolve. We'll all see what the future brings, if we're lucky enough to live so long.

Yup. For us, luxury is dry, warm, stuff that works. Easy tow. Easy entrance to campsites that sunblockers can't use. I never thought if our trailer as lux, til this conversation, but it truly is, for us. Loving my 2008.

Nobody was ever sorry they bought a tool that outperformed the job at hand. Superior trailer, bigger truck, stronger axles, beefier hitch and heavier springs. Some folks are minimalists and hope everything will be fine. I contend Hope is not a strategy. Minimalism is just getting by.

@AlbertNTerri You had me thinking about the plastic bushings vs brass bushings, on my 2023 Oliver LEII I'm pretty sure I have the Dexter E-Z flex Equalizers with the brass bushings, per this video.

Very nicely stated. We will likely all at some time feel the pain of these spring failures, but OTT will certainly have far more difficulties than we will. It is for this reason that I hold OTT totally NOT at fault in any way for these springs failing. IMHO, this is a Dexter OEM issue. GJ

Mike from ALCAN assured me that the springs they sold me were 2,000lb springs. So, 2,000x4= 8,000. 3,000 lb springs could be a issue. For full disclosure, my E2 is a 2021 with approx 25,000 miles towed. 99%+ of miles were on paved roads, 80% of those miles is West of Mississippi, remainder of miles is in the Summer. Never on either Coast. Dry weight of my trailer is just over 5,250 lbs. All three tanks are empty whenever I travel. Trailer rides level using Andersen hitch.

John: Michelin says inflate to their load table. They also say use a minimum of 35 PSI for our weight. Minimum because we are well under their chart range. So in reality they are saying go with a much lower psi than any of us are using. I started out at 80 from the factory. My first stop was to a gas station where reduced the pressure to 60 psi. Then several years later took it to 55, then to 50. Now with repeated experience and knowledge, I will be at 42 PSI for HY and 30 or less (Depending on road condition/hazards) for off road use. My previous thoughts were highway efficiency (I.E. MPG) was all important. With years of chasing cushions around the cabin, and now this thread topic: I have realized that maybe I saved $20 in fuel each season, but at what cost to my Ollie. Springs and shocks have a purpose. Over inflation hinders their effectiveness and I am guilty of "Ollie Abuse" as a result. My recommendation is to save yourself the 6 year learning curve, and reduce the pounding for your OE2 by going with a somewhat consensus of 40 to 42 PSI for your OE2. +++++++++ All: To cut this off at the pass: Yea, I know that I'm over the Michelin recommendation of 35 psi. Maybe I'm admitting to being somewhat hard headed. But I can assure you that my learning curve continues. Who knows, maybe next year I'll be saying time to move down to 38 PSI. The Japanese call this Kaizen or continues improvement. Yep, I am for sure a work in progress. But my wife says that my progress is moving at a glacial pace.