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Yep, you can even mod a fire ring being creative. We love our fire ring! We prefer to camp in cooler weather, and in the evening we sit by the fire ring for drinks and conversation. I understand the purists want a real campfire, but more often than not in the SW open fires are restricted. Also, I'm a hardworking sort but I dislike spending effort on something that is later "dust in the wind" with no resulting value. No smoke, no fire danger, just warmth. Often when Chris is starting dinner, she'll call out, "start the grill please." I'm thinking it's early for dinner, but she wants to start a couple baked potatoes. I've learned Irish women got to have potatoes, at least mine does often. So, I was sitting there by the fire thinking, "why should I need two fires going?" Being conservative (in more ways than one), the waste bothered me. After dinner, we sit by the fire ring again. I acquired this grill grate a few years ago from a guy that was renting our outbuilding. When moving out, he threw it away, so I saved it. Now I have a great use for it. Love reusing old stuff I've saved! It's some kind of weird form of accomplishment within me. Actually, the first mod to our fire ring was to replace the rocks. They come standard with some cheap version of lava rock, lighter than air, useless. We purchased these HD lava rocks and although it does add a few LBs to the ring, the amount of heat is certainly doubled! Amazon.com: Stanbroil Lava Rock Granules for Gas Log Sets and Fireplaces - 10 lb.Bag (0.8"-1.2") : Patio, Lawn & Garden You put these two upgrades together and you can cook anything that does not release grease: baked potatoes, other veggies, boil water, etc. It gets hotter, cooks faster than our small Weber grill. And this way I can turn the potatoes, butt in chair, drink in hand! I bought this item too. Got the 100-pack since we use them as a drip catch for the Weber and you can use them for this purpose too. ttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BRGWLGDG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will also keep any juices from bleeding onto the rocks. A couple of pics to follow from our recent outing. I call the second one "campin' au gratins" and oh, they were sooooo good!

Another one needed for the collection…

Or nothing at all. We don’t use any chemicals. No odors, we don’t put anything in the black tank other than poop and pee. You should never put tissue, wipes, feminine hygiene products or cigarette butts into the toilet system. When dumping, we flush the black tank 2-3 times until the water runs clear. Ten years in and never an issue.

The Andersen model is made to fit the Oliver frame, truck model does not matter. The truck matters re whether you need a WDH or not, but they all have 2" hitch receivers. My suggestion is to ask members here if they want to sell theirs. I've noted some 10+ forum members that say they do not use theirs with their F-250 or other 2500 series trucks. Used and pulled from another Oliver, IMHO would be the best way to go! If you truly want to buy new, ask OTT for the part number or buy from them.

Art, we also enjoyed the evening and the visit with you and Diane. We do make it through NM a few times each year so if we’re not too far we’ll give you a holler. Have a safe trip home! Mike

...this thread's all about the "WAP2", War Against the Poop Pyramid! Almost boils down to: Less is More.

JD - if poss, check-out any available "smart" alternators for your vintage TV. The new tech DC/DC chargers like them a lot... you might be able to get a 50amp model for your OTT in conjunction with a new smart alternator, just think'n out loud...(only into my 2nd cup 'o Black Rifle)

@Mike and Carol - it was great talking to y'all the other night! We're sorry we couldn't pass along a "proper" farewell before your departure. If you find yourselves in the proximity of northern NM (or even Cochiti Lake SP), please give us a "shout-out" and know that you'll have a place to un-hitch and relax a bit! Warm regards, A & D

Mike, I walked over this morning May 18 at the Rally and introduced myself as you were preparing to leave for home. I wish I had done it sooner and had seen this post of your visit to David Crockett BP SP. My home for near 50 yrs now has been in nearby Greeneville. If you two ever find your way back to this area, and I can lend any assistance whatsoever, feel free to call on me. Regards, Ron Williams

I understand the several weep holes around the perimeter of the Oliver are designed to drip water to remove condensate, but how much is normal? This picture was taken at 10 AM on a sunny day at a campground north of I-40 in dry Arizona. You can see the 3 water spots. The center one for the fridge had twice the volume of water than the two weep holes. Chris was cleaning up breakfast dishes and I noticed this when breaking camp outside and took this picture. My first thought was a leak in the kitchen plumbing. I have read here that some of you in other climates have condensation issues, talk of dehumidifiers. In the SW, this time of year is the windy-dry season, and we run 4 large humidifiers! I had not witnessed any moisture on windows during our trip, or down below when I worked upgrade projects, and the wet bath dries in minutes after a shower. Is this normal, or should I check the plumbing under the kitchen sink?

Finally, got around to switching out old Zamp solar SAE plug that used reverse polarity. Switched to industry standard polarity so I don't have to use a polarity reversal adapter to recharge house batteries with Goal Zero panels. Plus the cap had broken off and I already had an open sealant tube from other projects. Best, Mike

I've asked about this several times over the last several years. Asked the owner of our local Batteries Plus, are AGM batteries better for our trucks? The answer in the past and since is "Yes, better but not worth twice the money!" I've had AGM batteries in my motorcycles over 10 years now. The Dodge Ram Cummins always had two (2) Group 27 LA batteries. The last Dodge Cummins I had for 18 years had the same setup and twice I purchased the very reasonable Walmart EverStart batteries. Could have done the same this time for $150 ea. I searched for other batteries and the Odessey AGM came up $384 ea. Wow, like I said more $$$. In this case, should I pay $325 total with tax or $832. Go figure. Then I found a new style EverStart AGM from Walmart, however they did not have the Group 27 size in this model. I found the H7 size to be very close to the Group 27, about 1/4" longer and wider, yet a full inch shorter in height. I purchased two of these modern AGM batteries: EverStart Platinum AGM Automotive Battery, Group Size H7 / LN4 / 94R 12 Volt, 800 CCA 140 RC - Walmart.com They're made in South Korea, like that much better than China. South Korea manufacturing started earlier than China and is more mature in quality practices. Total OTD with tax $390 for two HD AGM truck batteries nice!

Those of us in the West are surrounded by exactly the right type of rock to use in propane fire pits. Fresh from the volcano lava rocks are there for the picking. Alongside a central Oregon road I picked up a fire pit full of 2 - 2-1/2" lava rocks chosen for high density and low water content. Lava rock varies from extremely light to very dense ... some lava rocks float in water - you don't want that as the heavier rocks absorb and give off far more heat than the fluffy stuff. Avoid the immitation stuff that comes in some fire pits. Make sure your rock is from a genuine, certified volcano that has not been soaking in water recently. Porous rock filled with water can blow up in a surprising manner when put in a fire ... best to avoid that.

'Ol Oscar wasn't amused by this sign - check it out... Knuckleheads, they are!

I have no idea of how the Truma is constructed, but I've seen the same happen on other brands when the rubber isolation mounts between the compressor and the base of the unit go bad or are missing. When that happens all the compressor vibration travels straight through to the camper. Edit: Also, I've seen where the compressor jumps up off the mounts after hitting a large pothole or rough stretch of road. Definitely not the blower motor if the sound only comes and goes with the compressor engaging.

Thank you I will have some more questions after I solve the windows issue. Hope I get the information I need from Mike tomorrow thank you really appreciate

Ron, it was good to meet you! We sure like East Tennessee. This was our second stay at DCBSP and I’m sure we’ll be back. We spent some time in Greenville, Johnson City, Roan Mountain, Bristol, Elizabethton and places in between. We’ll let you know when we return! Mike

Any time we can help, we're here.

The powder calgon has been discontinued in the US and Canada, for a number of years. (Hence, the Polish version in gj's photo.) Liquid has limited availability. Washing soda (not baking soda) has the same major active ingredient. Many dishwasher pods also use it. (Sodium carbonate.) Or, borax (different chemical, same effect.). Or powdered laundry detergent. Lots of good choices.

There are a few youtube videos made by fellow travelers that will show some of the sites. I found our site on a PDF of the park and was able to do a google maps street view tour. The yellow hi-lited area shows the area where we will be.

That looks like a crimp on cap on the blue wire, which tells me that it is not a dangling wire but one that was terminated during installation. Mossey

Great pictures!!

Hi, Fernando. You now own a little piece of history! #6! Wow. Hehr was the original window manufacturer. Some years ago, they were bought out by Lippert. I do not believe that the exact same size windows are available, anymore, but slightly larger is . I would open a new ticket, and specifically ask Jason, as they refitted #1 as original, a number of years ago. That said, there may be nothing wrong with your original windows. The mildewed seals can be replaced. Do they all open and close properly? The back window may or may not actually be the leaking culprit . Most of us early hull owners have found that the true problem was the Oliver sign above the rear window. You'll know if that's the culprit if you tape all around it with clear or white duct tape. That said, our rear window did leak at one time, fairly early on. We corrected that problem by removing the window, cleaning up all the old caulk (not an easy job with all that silicone smeared everywhere on yours), and reinstalled it using synthetic butyl "tape" as a bedding material. Our rear window rough opening was pretty "rough" indeed, and a tiny bit larger for the window than it should have been, but since carefully reinstalling with butyl many years ago, we've had no leaks from the window. If any of the double pane windows have fogged, there are a number of places around the country that will remove and repair fogged windows. I can highly recommend Suncoast Design in Hudson Florida, should you want to travel. There are still a handful of original 2008 owners who are friends of mine. Some, like Pete (bugeyedriver on the forum) are still active here. We're all happy to help. Sherry/Seadawg

I don't know whether you bought this new or used. I buy mostly used vehicles and there are often wires disconnect for various reasons. I have disconnected wires at a fuse box intentionally when I retire some device, but then I would also label and tape down the wire. You really want to know what it is that you are connecting. Given you bought this new, you would think all wires should be connected. However, the wire could be from a standard wire harness for an option you did not purchase. The only way these would get disconnected is from somebody working down there or perhaps placing something lose in the area. These spade terminals do not fall off by themselves from regular use of the trailer. If you want to connect this without knowing what the wire powers, it does not matter to which terminal it is connected. It's all a 12V bus bar. What matters is the amperage of the connected fuse. Without knowing what it powers, it would be impossible to know the correct fuse amperage. Are slots #14 or #15 labeled with fuses inserted? That would help to determine purpose. Perhaps somebody, not only with a 2022 model, but with the same 12V accessories you ordered, can help. I suggest opening a Service Ticket, providing this picture, asking first the purpose so the panel can be labeled properly and then where it should be inserted.

Our pump will not cycle on at all even when left on for hours. The pump should pressurize the plumbing, but hot the tank given the overflow is always open. I noticed a minor drip on the far rear weep hole at a different time. What you experienced could have been your level a a bit off. We get the level spot-on with the LevelMatePRO and it was level at the time when the leak was pictured. I have never noticed any drip on the driver's side, all curbside, and this points to a plumbing leak vs. condensation. I want to thank everybody here who made suggestions, add pictures, etc. This is very helpful. I'm not getting right on this work very soon, but I will update this thread as I do. Our Oliver is parked now and until after Labor Day and I have much M&R planned for our off-season (home, TV and Oliver projects)!

Do you have water in your fresh tank? The reason I ask is on our OEII the fresh water overflow tube clamp was loose on the tank fitting and we had water dripping from those holes. The water under the fridge drain is normal. Picture through hole in bottom of kitchen cabinet. Hole was installed by factory service department so they could tighten the clamps.

Did you have to change the charging profile in your truck? I know sometimes, depending on the truck and the recommended charging parameters for the battery, the truck won’t fully charge the battery. Some AGMs like a higher charging voltage than flooded lead acid batteries.

I purchased also the Orion dc to dc charger 30 amp , but I charge from a spare power station I have. Victron has new DC to DC charger 50 amp that is scheduled to be released in us next month. Its 98 percent efficient compared to existing 82 percent. Lower temperature from high efficiency. I preordered it, of course they improve it. It also will tie into my victron components . Great Job on your install.

Added simple magnetic door open holder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N63U2UZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I added one in 2017, it was also too strong. I moved the magnet from the outside of the dinette seat to inside and it works perfect, plus you can’t see anything on the side of the seat, just the white magnet on the bottom of the door. RV Door Magnet on Amazon Mike

Yes, I tagged the previous poster as a spammer. Foreign IP address with a cut and paste post advertising a product. You must have posted your reply at about the same time I tagged him.

The Alarm that comes with the Oliver is a combination Smoke and CO detector. If you switch it out to a Smoke only you give up that detector's ability to detect CO. There is a CO detection capability on the LP detector though. Two downsides I see for CO detection with the LP detector are: 1.) the location is optimized for propane detection (heavier than air) and 2.) the power is from the 12 volt of the trailer without battery backup. I think it is best to keep both CO detection capabilities. If you switch to a Smoke detector only, you should add another CO detector that has a separate battery from the trailer and is in a better location than the LP/CO detector. Another thought to keep in mind. The Smoke detector sensor for the Smoke and CO detector is for Smoke (smoldering type fires). That detector is a photo optic detector that determines when large smoke particles block the light passing through the sensor. Another type of Fire sensor is the Ionization detector which detects particles from fast burning fires much quicker than a the sensor of a smoke detector will. I think it is best to use both types in your trailer and your house. For those with older units, the maximum life of a detector is 10years. In some cases it is less. I've seen CO detectors with shorter lives as recommended by the manufacturer. With the environment our units live in it would probably be better to change out more often. - Randy

Fwiw, We tend to remove all batteries at the end of the season. Helps to avoid the leakers, and corrosion. We reuse the aaa and aa in secondary flashlights, next season. I don't trust most batteries for more than a year. At my mom's, I replace all her batteries (emergency flashlights, remotes, smoke alarms) on mother's day. Pick a date. Once a year, is my motto. Sherry