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For me, the Oliver is the perfect do anything in for any amount of time for 1-2 people. My wife would never spend more than a couple weeks in it but I would in a second. Easy to pull, park, pack, and polish! Excellent durability. I see it as the best means of travel to destination and then unhitch to go explore when you arrive at interesting places. The biggest difference between the Ollie and an Airstream (2nd only to the fiberglass vs aluminum) is the 7ft vs 8ft wide aspect which makes the Oliver easier to pull and maneuver IMO. Fiberglass is more durable and easier and cheaper to repair. Sometimes I think about a Class C motorhome but it has drawbacks for me that make it not appealing. (Having to tow a vehicle is one for destination transportation.) It’s such a personal decision depending on where you want go, etc. The last thing I would ever want to do at this point in my life is to have a very expensive tow vehicle to pull a massive 5th wheel or a fancy Class A that I couldn’t take to a state/federal park (27ft max length in some) or want to drive on the ALCAN highway. There or Pros and Cons to every class of RV. Now, if I had the means and it was going to sit mostly on some acreage in WY or MO it might be the Living Vehicle RV. And if I was dreaming of something it would be an Oliver with a massive solar array on top and battery bank below, bigger windows, 5-10 feet longer than EII with a separate bed and dry bath. Oh, and redesigned bumper for a Class III hitch and more outside accessible storage. Having had the Oliver almost 7 years now, there is nothing at this moment that I would trade it for at any price point for what I like and want to do. Now, I might buy something else to do some other things in other places. Life seems to take on new meaning every 10 years or so. Ha, so who knows! Best, Mike

I ran across the Lithium Battery Buyers Guide linked below yesterday. If you decide to read it, be sure to also read the comments below THIS video for even more information. Bill Lithium Battery Buyers Guide

I have 3 weeks off and besides maintaining the home front, I'm spending half of my time on the Oliver, and 3 times a week some pickleball diversion! The main mods are improving furnace ducts, an oven to replace the microwave, an ATS for future running the A/C off inverter and what else... renewing the entry steps, but for now it's just a simple mod for less than $20! I really needed one for the bathroom, but glad to have purchased set of two. I looked and measured and could not think of another bathroom location. BTW, this fits nicely allowing a 1" clearance for the bathroom cabinet door. Then it made sense to add one at the kitchen sink! What do y'all think? I know Chris will love this when she returns home later this week! And it's not easy to mount the adhesive mounts squarely. Amazon.com: CGBE 2-Pack Bathroom Organizers And Storage, No Drilling Adhesive Shower Caddy Shower Organizer With Drainage Holes, Durable Shower Shelves for Home & kitchen - Small & White : Home & Kitchen

It definitely depends on the person and situation youre in. I "Full time" in my LE1 granted im not actually in it for most of the year as im out working on ships. But it is my main house so to speak. I have a small storage unit for seasonal equipment and anything i want to keep but dont need with me in the trailer near my parents house that i can drop/pickup from when i visit them, my F150 acts as my garage and all my time spent not at work im living in the trailer. when i am at work if its not somewhere that i can bring the trailer it gets dropped at whatever the nearest/cheapest storage lot is until i get off the ship. So far in my career its worked out to be 2 months at a time in the trailer then out working for 6 but pretty soon here that will change to much more time off. i think if it were more than just me it would almost certainly be too cramped for full time but ive had friends come with me for a few days at a time with little issue.

I used this transfer switch for running my air conditioner through the inverter. Only two cables no issues getting the switch wired. I did change out the cheap plastic wire strain relief bushings for standard metal clamp type bushings. The cable on the right comes from the power distribution panel and the one on the left goes to the air conditioner. I’ve checked the terminal strip screws on several occasions and they’ve always been tight. Don’t try to use the Zantrex 15A switch, it’s just enough to run the Penguin AC Unit but gets pretty warm after a few minutes even with the soft start module. I switched over to three Battle Born batteries a few years ago and they can run the AC unit for maybe a couple of hours, although I’ve never run it for more than a half hour or so because I haven’t wanted to totally deplete the batteries. My 320 watt solar system would take several days to completely recharge the batteries. The 2,000 watt inverter seems to handle the load well but, I make sure that there are no other DC loads at the same time.

I've been planning to do a new post on my install/replacement of my original lead acid batteries - but - in preparing for the Annual Owners Rally and then my annual 2 month fly fishing trip to Wyoming plus all of the "normal" house projects that hit at this time of year I've simply not had the time. While I will not be able to do the job I would like on this topic - I'll get to it before I leave on July 5th. Bill how about a "teaser"?

I must be miss-reading this, with my old brain. But "Agilis" CrossClimates are Michelin. They're awesome so far. But time will tell.

Several people have done that. A link to a search for "multiplus." https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/search/?&q=Multiplus&search_and_or=or

I saw this mod a couple month or so ago somewhere on this forum, or maybe an Oliver Facebook post. It is to avoid critters chewing up the propane hoses. Can’t remember who posted it, but we’re planning to do a lot of boondocking so I copied it.

Real simple - whichever wheel is the spare it goes to the right rear. Then rotate anti-clockwise until the left rear becomes the new spare.

Been using Fix It Stix for years and they're a great product. The T-handled torque wrench is the bomb - I wouldn't mount a precision scope or optic on any long-range rifle without it... just say'n. https://www.pewpewtactical.com/fix-it-sticks-review/

@JDB_Traveler Any update on the lighting problem you are experiencing? Mossey

Thank you @Ronbrink and @mountainoliver, I was made aware of this solution and the KISAE ATS 20A from posts you made previously. I must have one wire on the Input side off (from the breaker panel/shore power). The output side must be fine since the A/C is running on inverter. Where I mounted my box the power cord just makes it straight down to the inverter. I'll check the wiring today. It's not a good design where you cannot physically see the wire connections and the screw dia is barely wider that the wire gauge. Changing to standard metal clamp type openings would also make the wiring easier. I'll get it today unless the ATS is defective. My 2KW Xantrex inverter got rather hot running the Penguin for <8 minutes and I don't plan to do that again. This will be for when we upgrade to a new more efficient air conditioner. My plan also includes 900 AH in Epoch LiFePO4 batteries. A final upgrade in future years would be a 3KW inverter, hopefully one with hardwired 120V terminals and built-in ATS.

We built a "Lagun Table" with grooved edges underneath so as to place between the twin rails. When in place, the tabletop now supports the added cushion between the twins turning the sleeping area into a single/larger area that's more than enough for my 6' frame and D's 5'7" physique. This way, we keep the nightstand and sleep port/stbd instead of fore/aft. As far as @topgun2's shower comment - 100% concur. If I was 6'4", I'd likely sit on the toilet to wash rather than stoop. How do you handle "rain locker" operations, @Patriot?

Same here, Mike. We like the Arctic Fox - both their slide in and travel trailer. Same here... We like how the bathhouses make our holding tanks happier! I'm thinking 2 months max road time for us... @rideadeuce - All good points, Mike. Concur, 100%.

Is your KISAE TS plugged into the inverter? The install in my unit was very straightforward; simply spliced the KISAE TS into the existing 12-2 Romex from the breaker box and plug it into an inverter supplied power outlet. Yes, the terminal connectors seemed inadequate, but suffice; I had issue with the extremely short power cord on the KISAE TS, really limited positioning. Good luck with your endeavor!

This was Hull # 025

Come one, one of those prize racks would surely garner a lot of attention going down the highway on the brow of your Ollie. You can do IT!

We have done 6 weeks 2-3 times and that is about my wife's limit. We are planning a longer trip for August 2025 into Canada and the West coast.

This is something I've thought about myself. On the one hand, a great big fifth wheel would have tons of living and storage space, plus the safety and comfort of a full size truck as the TV. Would be ideal for long stays in various places, as would a diesel-pusher Class A motorhome. OTOH, if you wanted to move around a lot, a Class B would be convenient. Park it anywhere. There's a couple on YouTube that does just that. They live full time in a very nice Class B and take it everywhere. (They previously had a Class A and an Airstream. Their channel is called LivinRVision and they discuss the pros/cons of each RV here: https://youtu.be/pH8Wr8nT8kY?si=w2b4HkpHoH6UVzbQ) I don't see the Oliver LE2 as a good full-timer since it has the disadvantages of both: hitching/unhitching, limited storage/living space, too big for small urban parking lots. We seem to have found our sweet spot with Eggcelsior: multi-week stays in state parks with no hookups but decent bathhouses. We can fit in most sites, our lithium setup lasts forever, and the bathhouses keep our tanks happy. I can definitely see doing a month+ on the road, but not full time.

Just make everything "good-n-tight" using hand tools and it's hard to go wrong.

And here I was just researching upgrading the converter from an old PD4045 (lead acid only) to the newer lithium-capable PD4045CSV. Since I have tinnitus, it does not bother me to hear those "crickets", but it sounds like, no pun intended, that upgrading the controller in preparation for a Lithium upgrade will kill two birds with one stone. Since I don't trust purchasing the parts like this on Amazon anymore. I'll get it from Etrailer. I've used them before with great success. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Progressive-Dynamics/PD4045CSV.html

I have four 6V lead acid batteries purchased together 3 years ago. When I had them apart, they all read exactly the same voltage to 0.01V accuracy. Actually, with the Victron SmartShunt you can monitor 4 batteries with 2 shunts: Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartShunt IP65 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth) : Automotive There is an extra wire that can be used to monitor the tow vehicle (TV) battery, or to split a battery bank for two readings. Presently mine is not connected but would like to connect it to the TV battery when installing a DC-to-DC charger (run that wire to the same terminal at the hitch).

I feel that the 712 type gauge is very similar to a fuel totalizer. It is calibrated to measure the flow of energy and you need to manually set the capacity of the tank, battery, or battery bank. If your batteries are lacking a data port connection or Bluetooth you could wire up four shunts (one for each battery) and connect them to a cerbo gx or similar to combine the data (flow and reserve capacity). In your situation if all the batteries were purchased at the same time I would just treat the bank as a single battery. Disconnect them and test individually if you have a concern, otherwise just use a single shunt and concentrate on total reserve capacity.

So, we've decided to do this one way or another. Don't need a microwave, as I can reheat my coffee on the stovetop and save the carcinogens of microwaves! Chris says they kill the nutrients in all foods, so she doesn't use one ever in all of her amazing cooking. Measured our small model Emeril Air Fryer and it is the exact same dimensions, all measurements of length, width and height. Yeah, there is a heat issue that I mean to overcome. Yanked the microwave out of our hull in about 20 minutes today. Connected the Emeril and ran the air fryer at 375 for 16 minutes today. It got hot in the end, but there is 4 1/2" above the oven and 2 1/2" left and right (thermostat wiring to the right). I will need to raise it about 3/4" to fit the surround, but otherwise fits like a glove. I will cut some plastic off each side for the heat. I plan to fit the opening top and side with ceramic insulation made for woodburning stoves which comes in many thicknesses. I am wondering re OTT installed convection ovens. Anybody have one? Is there any exterior venting? Hey @bugeyedriver, you wrote on Dec 19, 2023 "The Wonder Egg - Hull #14, has extra vents in the side walls behind the oven, so I have gone to the micro/conv. option." Can you show pics of this venting. This will be a fun mod for me, and Chris will love it when she gets back from her sisters visit! Check out this pic after an hour of work today!

Not happy with recent purchase of a KISAE ATS 20. Could they give you another 1/2" in the terminal area? It is very difficult to wire. To tighten the terminals, you need a micro-size flathead screwdriver. Another bad, this is a 20A switch that should have standard terminals like in the 30A power panel. Some pics to follow. The first one is the OEM Xantrex ATS used to run all AC circuits less the air conditioner. Wonder if Xantrex has a 20A version of this? It must be better. Or... maybe given a likely upgrade to a modern RV A/C system needing only 10A, we then would only need a 15A ATS. The switch as installed will actually run the old Dometic Penguin II A/C running off the inverter. (See pic 4, it started at 1400W and after 5 minutes was running at 1800W.) I did see an occasional error code on the 2KW Xantrex. I still have lead acid batteries, so the error could have been running just under 12V for a second. The reading was 12.1V most of the time under this heavy amperage. You truly need LiFePO4 batteries to run the A/C off inverter. I was hoping to get this inexpensive installation done now to be ready for future HVAC and LiFePO4 upgrades. Pic 3 shows the switch in the bottom righthand corner taped to the top of the power panel (original cable in and new 12-2 cable to the panel). It will NOT run the A/C on 120V shore power, go figure. It could be a bad switch, or it could be I have an open wire on the input side that connects to the 20A A/C breaker on the panel. I hate to have to open this and wire it again. First thing to check is for continuity of the hot, neutral and ground, from the panel and left to right across the switch. I'll report on this later. Of course, while I'm doing this there is no air in the Oliver! I truly would like to find another brand inverter ATS. Please don't run out and buy one of these in a hurry.

Okay! It's time to get serious about ensuring all my electrical connections are tight enough. Over the years I've found quite a few lose connections in the old #110. Including nearly burned out connections inside the auto-switch box, very brown plastic bus bar. I don't know what is good or what is crap out there in terms of a "good-enough" torque screwdriver (or wrench). I've seen some reviews saying some are difficult to hold over a certain torque spec. Any experienced owners out there who could recommend something? Just enough to support anything in an Oliver. I don't need to get crazy with it. Thanks!

When I read this yesterday, I was thinking I would have to do the same upgrade prior to adding LiFePO4 batteries. Then I realized there may be a bigger plan in my future. Many of us have this inverter: Amazon.com: Xantrex Prowatt SW2000 2000W True Sinewave Inverter Model# 806-1220 : Automotive This model is inverter only, hence the separate charger (and hulls without an inverter only have the PD charger). What if I was wanting to upgrade to a 3KW inverter at some point? Many new inverters on the market are inverter/chargers and may have superior charging performance over this upgraded PD charger. Although it may be difficult to fit an inverter/charger like one of these, under the rear dinette seat where OTT mounted the Xantrex in our hull. It would also need modification to wiring if the PD charger was to be deleted. Amazon.com: Victron Energy MultiPlus-II Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt : Automotive Amazon.com: Victron Energy MultiPlus Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 3000VA 12-Volt : Automotive

We're using the microwave (until it goes Tango Uniform) for D's movie night popcorn - which occurs around 7pm, every day. The air fryer lives on the floor of the closet - I'm certain the AF will land in the MW garage eventually. Cook On, All!

On our 2022 the shade just clips onto the wall. A firm tug on the bottom to release it, then remove it from the top clips. Snap it back in upside down to have the blackout on the bottom.

There’s a ACoE campground on a lake near my beloved Eureka Springs which is a splendid little town full of interesting surprises and great architecture.

Hot Springs is a nice stop. Gulpha Gorge Campground in the national park is nice. Full hookup and cheap with the senior pass if you have it. Sites by the creek are nice but a little close. Lake Fort Smith is nice. Large spaces.

I’m not sure we could full time in our Oliver. We’re good for a couple of months, but get cabin fever if the weather gets bad. If I was full timing I’d look at an Arctic Fox or Outdoor RV. They seem to be of better quality than most stick and staple trailers and can be big enough to spread out a little. Intech is also an interesting manufacturer with different building techniques. Mike

If you have any interest in mineralogy the Crater of Diamonds State Park could be fun too. It is very hot in the summer so your travel dates would match nicely.

@NomadLife what's your progress? I'm up to my eyes in brown with anticipation! 🤣 Anybody else want to know how this one turns out?

I see you have the Ouchita National Forest on your list. It has a lot to offer. Mount Magazine camp sites are nice and close to hiking trails and the lodge has wonderful views and a nice restaurant. The hang glider launch, east of the lodge, also has very nice views too. To the south of Mount Magazine is a Corp of Engineers campground on a lake. Lake Ouchita had some camping sites around the lake but I can't remember their names or know their status.

... of comparable size. If the OP wants more space there are options like fifth wheels with lots of room to spread out. Of course, that's a completely different experience than an Oliver.

This is what was used and is being used on our Oliver Search | Campbell (campbellchainandfittings.com) T0143626 | Campbell (campbellchainandfittings.com)

You might want to send Patriot a private message (PM) on this topic. He is about that height. Obviously, some of this will have to do with how you prefer to sleep (i.e. arms over head, legs out straight, etc.) Certainly you will not be able to stand up straight in the shower - I'm right at 6'0" and I just make it. The main cabin should be no problem for you. Bottom line - you really should see one in person - a call to the sales office will get you to the closest one to you. Note that Oliver sales is NOT a pressure operation and they will not "bug" you until the cows...... Bill

We have the same vents in our 2008. Probably could find them in good stainless at Seadog. If I carried an air fryer, I'd take it out of the cupboard for use. Actually, I'd probably store it in a bin under the bed, or on the floor of the closet. That microwave cavity made a super pantry space for us, when we removed the never used microwave.

We have been considering Starlink for our Oliver. I think this latest version of the new Starlink mini dish might really be worth a look and waiting for. With a much more compact/portable size and initial lower cost might be a viable option for our needs. It will be interesting to see how this new mini dish performs.

@Half Fast Hugo Thanks Hugo for the fine-print details, any future info anyone gleans would also be appreciated. I agree with @Geronimo John it maybe awhile before this mini becomes available in an RV/camping/travel package. I will be really interested if and when it does. I do like what the future mounting possibilities could be with this mini dish.

Here are pictures of the two air vents in my 2008 Elite. You can see one is located on the wall as you exit the trailer, and the other is in the galley area, on the wall to the left of the sink. They provide passive venting from the rear of the space containing the oven. Not sure of a source for the vents, but you get the idea and should be able to find something similar. If you are particularly handy and inspired, consider a tiny switch activated fan mounted behind one of the vents which could turn it from a passive to an active heat protection. Good luck! Be sure to post pictures of your finished project.

For anyone interested in the Atmos 4.4. This is a installation PDF with nice pics of first installation at SDG factory. ATMOS 4.4 Dreiha Atmos 4-4 AC Installation.pdf $1350 shipped, good support through SDG $1150 local pickup Another label, same unit as far as I can tell. TOSOT TST-RV-GC15K-User_manual_230707.pdf 15% off coupon: SMERMM15 $1,212.74 shipped, unsure about support Not sure if the units use same APP for WIFI but is available for both. From what I understand, you will need to wire a thermostat where the old Dometic thermostat is for furnace control. @jd1923 got a quote for this through SDG for about $50. T-stat for controlling furnace. Still waiting to hear about compatibility or need for Micro-Air Easy Touch wifi thermostat (what I am currently using and love). But if the App works great, who cares. If you do use the WIFI thermostat that SDG/Atmos offers it is IR connected and needs direct line of site to unit for it to work. Best, Mike

You got to get a leveling device. Now that we've had one since fall of '23 I would not want to camp without it! Too bad I did not know of this choice, or perhaps its new on the market. I like it made in the USA (even the great state of NC for you locals)! Many of us have already gone with the LevelMatePRO. It is a bit more expensive, though it has two features I do prefer. One is you get all directions on one screen and do not have to switch to Roll vs. Pitch screens. The other is it can be hardwired, installed out of site and out of mind. I have mine under the dinette where it was easy to connect to 12VDC, no battery replacement and 2 AAs makes the Beech Lane product pretty big. Either model is a GREAT improvement. It reads easily from the driver's seat. Love how quickly we find the most level spot and level. Given these details, if this was available when I made my purchase decision, I would go with Made in USA regardless!

You recommended the Nitto's some time ago. I put a set on my TV and LOVE them! Good tire all around. 🙂 GJ

John, yes that’s it. I loosen the set screw and then pull the cable all the way out with the handle. I used WD40 to clean it and then added a light coat of grease, don’t remember exactly what grease, probably white lithium that I had on hand. I’ve done this twice since 2016 and it keeps things working smoothly. It’s probably time to do it again before we head to Colorado/Utah next month. The first time I did it Steve Landrum talked me through it after I was complaining that the cable was hard to pull. The gray tank cable is shorter, but the technique is the same! Mike

I believe @topgun2 recommended this mod to me early on. Just inside the door has proven to be a super handy place to hang our keys. The shelf on top is where our mini flashlight lives. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154HAWHE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Good morning Kevin. I would be happy to help you. I ordered my LE ll with the composting toilet and after six months decided I would rather have a flusher and converted to the factory toilet myself. If you’ll give me a call. I can offer some guidance. John Burton 480-390-6996

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9168-how-to-install-an-isotherm-cruise-130-2-way-refrigerator-in-an-le2/ This looked so easy, and it turned into a can of worms right away.The installation instructions seemed concise, but there were a lot of frustrating errors, omissions and vague statements like "Connect all the lettered wires to each other properly". +Isotherm Intelligent Temperature Control (ITC) BoatTest.com article.pdf John Davies Spokane WA