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1st Road test: spoiler alert, I am quite impressed after 1st night with the fan running and the first trip with the AC set on AUTO AC at 70 degrees F. When we left my dad's house in SW MI the temp was 66 degrees. Epoch batteries 99% By Mid day temps had climbed to 84. Pulling into our house south Nashville 8 hrs later it was 91 degrees outside and the Epoch batteries showed 75% with a 87.5 amperage draw on high AC output. I know it is a lot different than coming up from FL but still pretty happy with the results. Cabin temperature never got above 72. Experience so far inside has been pleasant. Slept a lot better the first night. Temps and humidity stayed more constant. I didn't wake up hot and have to turn down the temperature. The fan did stay on all night but relatively quiet and I actually really liked the circulating air without the worry of using up too much battery. Turned off my other fans I usually use. The FULL AUTO mode is still somewhat of a mystery to me as of yet. I intuitively feel like once I get some clear answers it will be positive. Everything else is thought out well. The Auto AC and heat work as expected. Still not enough experience with dehumidifying and sleep modes. The fan does not continuously bring in fresh non-conditioned, it re-circulates the cabin air. IF so, it is well designed. Sealed unit is the way it was explained to me. I am not sure how that works but it did feel that way during the night. We had a lot of rain a couple of days. Condensate dripping off the Oliver does not bother me. The highest amperage draw on high that I have seen is still under 90 amps I like the way it has 3 different options to send air directly out to the cabin in both directions. I can feel it sitting at dinette while typing on the computer. It has a dump switch so that air comes straight down to the bed area. And the rotating vents mode actually changes up the air flow nicely. Thought I have kept it off mostly. I don't necessarily need the AC on all the time but I really like the air circulating quietly. Happy with keeping the Suburban propane for back up heat. Also, glad to have 12k heat pump available to use on Auto mode. Took off the back plate for T-stat. Looks better. Plenty of head room. The remote is nice but still figuring it out. Comes with a mount. I forgot to mention earlier Kevin at SDG said it would be $1800 for install at his shop which includes Suburban thermostat wiring/placment. For the DIYer it is $1350 shipped without SoftStart, $1650 with the SoftStart. The SoftStart is basically $300 either way. You can get a little bit of a discount (-$20) on SoftStart website. All for now. Best, Mike Screen shots riding down the road at different times during the drive home.

No surprises in your report, in fact very encouraging; I think the Atmos 4.4 is a very good replacement choice. Of particular interest will be 1) if the humidity issues expressed by others having SOBs will eventually become a factor and 2) if the unit size (15,000 btu) proves to be too much for the OLElls and cause cycling concerns. Please keep us informed as your experience broadens, and good luck with all!

John, if you haven’t already, contact Dexter and request a spec/build sheet of your axle/spring assy. You will have to provide them with your axle serial number. Attached is a copy of my build sheet with all the info on the axles and springs, under “shop order notes and options” you can see my axles are 3” diameter. The axles and springs are supplied from Dexter as an assembly, D52 = 5200lbs capacity and the springs are 1750lbs capacity.

John, If you tell Alcan you want a set of springs for a Oliver Legacy Elite II they have a default for undersprung install and 3” u bolts almost all Oliver E2s should have a 3” diameter axle. I double checked mine with a set of calipers just to calm my ocd. The reason to check is just to reassure the correct u bolts are ordered at time of purchase as there had been at least one report of replacement axles on older E2s being of different diameters. Springs should be the same regardless You can certainly do the string circumference then to the math for diameter. You can also check the stickers on your axles. It should look something like this and say D52 capacity - 3500 lbs as our trailers are only a year apart you and I should have very similar axle specs

When we ordered our Oliver in 2020 we opted out of the Hull # rear display. I ordered and installed this custom graphic in the front for a quick glance while we are camped. We finally decided on the name “XPLOR” on the rear as it’s just how we roll.😊🇺🇸

When preparing our 2022 Elite II for a weekend outing, I found error code [20] displayed on the inverter remote panel. When an inverter reboot produced no change, I consulted the section of the Oliver Owner's Manual Optional features book which addresses our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter. To my dismay, Error Code 20 does not appear in the table of error codes. Codes 1-19, and then 21 are listed, along with their respective meanings, but not Code 20! Since I was at home with good internet access, I checked the Oliver Knowledge Base. Sure enough, Xantrex Error Code 20 is covered in detail there. Included are instructions for resetting the inverter to clear Error Code 20. I followed those instructions. They worked. I hope this post helps someone else who encounters Error Code 20.

So after unloading from our trip I decided to play with the settings a bit. Remote is easy now that I dedicated some time to learning it. Also, so far the AUTO mode is starting to make sense. In FULL AUTO mode today, ambient outside temperature is 81 degrees F. Time: 12PM As soon as I put it in auto mode it showed AUTO cool with the number 77 showing. The inside ambient temperature was 72. The fan continued to run for a few minutes then the entire unit turned off including fan. Then the display showed AUTO Heat 68 degrees F. So I am assuming it will not turn on again unless the temperature drops below 68 or the Auto cool kicks in. But what temperature that is still unknown since you cannot set it manually. Strange that you can’t manually set temps, but the AUTO setting (68-77) may end up working great for certain situations like when the unit is plugged into shore power in my driveway. I will update as I follow how the unit reacts to outside ambient temperature throughout the day and night. Time: 1pm. Went into camper, AUTO mode display had switched from HEAT to COOL 77, Fan only running no compressor. Inside cabin temp 75 degrees. Ambient outside temp 83 degrees. TIme: 1:25pm. Unit off. AUTO mode heat 68 displayed again. Ambient inside temp 71. Interesting, seems like this setting may be great for when the Ollie is parked plugged in at home. It would save the fan motor from constant use. But would never work for me in use because I am hot natured and would need lower settings. Time: 1:50pm. Once cabin temp reached 76 degrees fan only turned on. At least, I can’t hear compressor. Pulling around 300 watts. Again, I believe this mode will work great while stored/parked. I like to keep my camper plugged in and connected to WiFi. @Ronbrink I believe the 15k BTU unit will be great for the Ollie because for one it is more efficient than other 13.5 BTU units and second the mode settings and unit design allow for the better management of humidity. But agree, more actual use is needed to confirm. Best, Mike

Within 5 minutes of texting Dexter with a screen shot of the axel label, I got a text and an e-mail with the document attached. Wow! Thanks for the suggestion.

@John Dorrer - John; that's correct. You'll need to examine your Dexter D35 axles and determine if you've got 2-1/2" or the 3" diameter units. I believe most Olivers were initially configured with the 3" diameter D35's, but Dexter makes both sizes. Lew or Mike at Alcan will sell you the appropriate U-bolts for your axles with your leaf spring order. Note that U-bolts are a one-time use item, so you shouldn't re-use your current U-bolts/nuts/washers. Also, the new Alcan-made U-bolt kits arrive unpainted, it would be a good time to clean off the machining oil and hit them with a good oil-based product such as Rust-Oleum to slow down the accumulation of oxidation on them. Plus, it will make those nice Alcan 5-packs and running gear look "all new and shiny." Keep us posted on your upgrade efforts! Cheers!

I believe this is it. https://support.olivertraveltrailers.com/portal/en/kb/articles/xantrex-inverter-error-20

When we pulled the wires from the axle there were wear spots in the middle of the wires too in several places. Mine are now zip tied to the outside of the axle. I had service check when they replaced my brakes in May and they left the wires on the outside. Mike

MW issue resolved, well kind of… plugged MW directly into a 12-3 20’ ext cord, then into site power post which had a 110 GFIC receptacle, opened the door and that tripped GFIC breaker at power post. Whew… so glad it was not GFIC @ Inverter. We unplugged MW, “we’re going in”… Opened up case, Found a loose part, Spent considerable time trying to find out where it might be within the case. Could not figure/find where it went, SO Closed up case, Reinstalled MW into cabinet. NO EASY FEAT… MW no longer trips GFIC @ inverter. As soon as we can FIND ONE, we will get to Appliance store and ask about loose part. MW is a High Pointe installed in 2020 in our LEII. Model# EM925AQR BMW

+2 on touch up with Rust-Oleum.

Not as pretty as those western vistas. We’re in far western New York, just across the boarder from Erie, PA at Lake Erie State Park. Water, wine, a light breeze, clear skies, and comfortable temperatures for a change. And kazoos!

Just decided on the MP2 for the sole reason is its dimensions. Wow, the 2x120V version is amazing for those with 50A RV systems but we only need a single 120VAC input and output. There are grid capabilities in the MP2 for home use that doesn't matter for RV usage. The original MP is actually smaller in volume, 2 LBS lighter, but the 8.6" depth vs. 6" is the real difference. Also, the MP has an aluminum casing vs. thin steel which may be better in some climates. Under the streetside bed as Mike @rideadeuce installed will be my choice too. I will figure out a footing and strapping for the MP2 without the heavy HDPE and epoxy. The MP2 is 23" long, almost 9" longer but there is a lot of length under the bed. I just added the Beech Lane dual fan for fridge cooling and if needed this would be a great addition to add it the wall to the rear going to the trunk area. I did not hear from any of the 3 or more Oliver owners with in an installed Multiplus re inverter or fan noise. Sure hope it is not noisy as it will be under my bed! Hoping the MP2 has dual battery terminals. It looks like Mikes does in the pics. I see pics from Victron, some show single screw terminal and most show a built-in terminal/bus with dual screw terminals. I have no interest in Victron Lynx buses or any additional bus for that matter. The Oliver already has DC buses installed. One terminal on the MP2 will of course connect directly to the batteries and I will use the second terminal to run 12VDC to the Oliver buses. There will only be the 4/0 cables in the battery bay. Still working on best price and will place an order Monday latest. I'm getting the Victron VE.Bus Smart dongle to program the MP2 and read status via the Victron app. This would be in place of any wall-mounted display accessories. I read I may also need a Victron Current Transformer for the Power Assist to work effectively. These are relatively inexpensive parts. Yesterday, I removed the lead-acid batteries. Today I'm pulling the 2KW Xantrex inverter, the Xantrex ATS and junction box. This is a complete OTT installed working system if anybody needs one. Put the LA batteries on Craigs, who knows. Will oen up the EMS and the 120V AC panel to ready the wiring. Building the MP2 platform will take some thinking! 😂

I've done that a few times, and get lost in looking for the setting number. j Do you see that the nAt means "Manual Restart" -- and on the Xantrex App it uses the abbreviation "Man" for Manual Restart. So my conclusion is that I CAN use the Xantrex bluetooth app and that mine is set correctly. I think this confusion is due to Xantrex not correlating their abbreviations from the panel to the app. THANK YOU for finding this. I will share with Mike at OTT Service.

Got it. Thanks. - JC

Everything has been said, great info here from many members. It's a long 17-page read! 🤣

nAt is manual restart. This default value is the recommended setting for #13. The following may be helpful either to you and/or others. Sent to me by Oliver at my request.

See if this helps.

Same here...

We have a 2022, so I'm keeping a close look on our springs. When we do switch it will be to Alcan. Somewhere I read that we need to supply the axel diameter to Alcan. Can someone confirm this Can Oliver confirm the diameter or do I just take a string and then measure. What has everyone done? Thanks.

@Ronbrink It is Molex 19045-81 but I can't seem to find a link for it. 3 contacts. Black, white and ground.

Anybody considering the little Houghton 9.5K model, now would be the time to buy at 11% off! I'm still undecided and delaying this upgrade since I am spending $$$$ on batteries and inverter now: RV Air Conditioner Low Profile 9.5k Quiet AC Unit with Optional Heat Pump and Remote Control, Non-Ducted - RecPro

Would you mind adding the direct link to this thread? I have tried tracing various Knowledge Base information from older posts, only to find the information missing, but it still might be helpful. I use the Knowledge Base a lot, as I continue to learn about the OTT. Also related to the Xantrex manual and codes: OTT Service department and I both tried to find the definition of "nAt" to no avail. I will make a separate post for that issue, but wanted to note it here.

JD: One of the reasons that JD suggested the exterior routing acrosss the axle is that the wires were being damaged at the entry and exit points. I totally agree that the wires should be 14 ga as you suggested.

Yup just saw that. Here's the link with announcement and contact details if you wish to schedule a service installation. https://mailchi.mp/trumacorp/truma-coolers-winter-camping-and-more-17304172?e=65dcac5d9f ...and response from Truma re cost "The cost of the soft start is $425 plus tax and mobile service calls where applicable"

Odd that they don't use hull numbers for tracking since that's probably the easiest/most obvious way. Owner name would be the least efficient, for reasons @Wayfinder stated. While I wouldn't mind having our hull number on the back, I'm sure others prefer their anonymity.

I did my career at Honda of America, Mfg in Ohio. We of course tracked every units build and history with the V.I.N.. I thought Oliver was doing the same with the Elite and Elite II builds, using either the "hull number" or some other identifier... but I realized when they sent out the mass-mailings on the Bulldog hitch recall that they weren't doing anything at all like that. THEY upgraded my hitch from the 2" / 7000 lb Bulldog to the 2 5/16" / 12,500 lb version. Even though they had done this... they sent me a recall notice. If their build records were complete... this would have been unnecessary. Evidently, at some point in their production run... there was some 5,000 lb Bulldog hitches that had gotten inadvertently installed. Maybe even just one?? But because they couldn't ascertain the production window where they KNEW there were good parts... they had to go back and check all or nearly all of them, because the risk was just too great. I suspect that this has shined a light on why they might want to be doing something like this going forward.

We're definitely considering the Lynx PD unit as well for when we drop the hammer on upgrading to the MPII - its a very clean option as compared to our Blue Seas bus bar, IMO.

There is a new post and a video in said forum of interest; in short, more corrections to misinformation. Anyone considering a Gree product should take time to read/watch the very pertinent information and discussions provided therein. I have learned nothing that would change my mind about purchasing an Atmos 4.4, looking forward to my pending delivery and details on your install.

John there are many videos on YouTube on how to calibrate it yourself, here’s one.

What is automatic AC transfer switching? All Xantrex Inverter/Chargers incorporate an automatic transfer switch. This switch senses when outside AC Power is present and transfers the load from the inverter to the source of incoming power (shore or generator). The unit also automatically switches from invert mode to charge mode.

This is what we use, and a small can and a couple of small brushes.

We also got the recall notice for our 2022 LE II Hull No. 1291, even though we bought the factory upgrade to the 2-5/16" Bulldog coupler. As you would expect, our coupler reads "12500 lbs." Oliver is just being overinclusive, to be ….and so did we! 😊 @Mike and Carol what black spray/paint did you use on your coupler?

We also got the recall notice for our 2022 LE II Hull No. 1291, even though we bought the factory upgrade to the 2-5/16" Bulldog coupler. As you would expect, our coupler reads "12500 lbs." Oliver is just being overinclusive, to be safe.

I think most of us got the recall notice. Just need to look at the top of your hitch and make sure it says 7000 lbs, not 5000. Here’s what mine looks like, the red thing is a lock.

We received the same notice for our hull 770. Checked the rating of the hitch as instructed in the notice - stamped 7000. We are good to go. I appreciate Oliver giving potentially affected folks a heads up.

Check this post, it is pretty much what prompted the recall. BTW, I find google search better than this forum, this is how I search google....site:olivertraveltrailers.com forum then whatever your searching, ie...."site:olivertraveltrailers.com forum coupler"....in this case I searched coupler...

We've got one of the original 2" bike rack receivers that @ScubaRx primarily designed back in the day. Our Super Duty 1Up rack weighs 47lbs and the two cruisers are roughly 30lbs each - taking us to 107lbs for the full load giving us a 40% margin before hitting the 150lb max weight design limit. Personally, the receiver kit is beefy - I'm thinking it could take more than the stated max... but I'm not going to find out. Ride ON!

Not exactly! When I've had a bad RV AC unit, after disconnecting the 4 mounting bolts in the interior, we (my son Adam) will climb up rooftop and heave the POS (usually a Dometic unit) to the gravel drive below. I tell my son lovingly, just hit the gravel and nothing else! Sorry @Geronimo John, re your comment, these are closed systems and NOBODY services a leak, you just replace the unit with something better on the market today, as we have ALL been discussing! Truck transmissions are another story! The "Sealed Transmission" 100K+ warranty is merely marketing hype. You better service these, unless you are the guy who trades up every few years (that guy is NOT me). Our '08 Lexus GX 4.7l V8 trans is "sealed" no dipstick, no way to ad trans oil from above... Soon after we purchased of this truck at 160K mile, I pulled the pan, replaced the filter and via the trans cooler hoses, with a funnel/gravity feed, I replaced 98% of the trans fluid. Do this service to yours prior to 100K miles. Toyo gas engines with proper care can last 500K miles, only to be compared to a Cummins diesel! Our GX will outlive me for sure and in another 20K miles I will do the timing belt/water pump service required on all Toyos! most qualified service stations can do this for you, just need to ask! 🤣 We also have a 2000 Lincoln LS (Jaguar platform, bought it 4 years ago with only 11K miles, OMG an awesome small sedan!) with the "sealed trans." I worked that service last fall. It is not any easy service. You need to fill the trans from under the truck, checking level at proper temp at the special drain valve. Use it, maintain it, or lose it. They want you to lose it, so you purchase another. Not me. We don't buy into the deep state of .gov and the companies that are only in it for war and money. Again... 🤣! Love you guys, y'all are great!

Update from SDG on the Atmos 4.4 --

It's like my sealed transmission in the Tundra just not worth the effort if it goes bad, just replace it with another sealed unit IMO and Toyotas. The refrigerant side of things for a sealed unit is not manufactured to be serviceable. Second, I amended my last statement to state the manufacturing of 410a (not the selling of) units will stop at the end of this year. Phaseout sell-off of inventory is a given. @GJ definitely not trying to school anyone, I just felt like there was a bit of fear mongering with the statements concerning R-32. Although each refrigerant has strong and weak characteristics. I feel like there is a lot more positives to converting than not to which I didn't even get to: 30-40% more efficient, GWP 2/3s less than R410a... bottom line better for the planet without much drawbacks IMO. Cheers mate! On to putting up new MaxxFan shroud/shade with LED light in the cabin.

Our hull has the Dometic Penguin II, and I believe it being an older hull has the 13.5K BTU model vs. the 11K of newer hulls. Our electrical panel has a 20A breaker for the AC. Can we assume my hull has 12 AWG wiring? (14 AWG should have a 15A breaker.) 14 AWG wiring can be an issue re voltage dropat high fan compressor running in any replacement unit.

I agree you must be careful buying on Amazon but the current Tosot AC on their website is R-32. Probably the best thing to do is buy direct or from official distributors (Atmos 4.4) like the one in Indiana that I believe @Ronbrink is purchasing from. There are other option though if you do your homework and are willing to take the risk to save a little money. But I do believe they are all the same units manufactured by the same company. I think the 410 use is in older manufactured units. Would be my guess. Anyway, hope to see the R-32 version in a Oliver soon! Best, Mike

Indeed, but impressed thus far! More energy efficient, competitively priced and much quieter than the Dometic, mine is the 11,000 BTU model. I have read some discussion on Houghton vs Atmos. In watching videos on performance you can make your own judgement on the db levels and energy consumption being reported. Most interest and testing is done running off an inverter.

Thanks Ron, great info here. Have you made your decision? Your timing? This will take some study, questions I have... Can the Atmos connect to the Oliver condensate drain. Does the fan turn off with the compressor? Does it truly dehumidify? (not a big concern for us living in AZ, but on some travels) Any of these would certainly be an improvement over the Houghton. It's almost as quiet (53 dB at which fan speed?) and not like we need 15K BTU. It's 25 LBS lighter, 2" shorter, 5" less width, though 3" taller. Also, 4 fan speeds vs. 2 and only 1160W cooling! Our electric tea kettle is 1100. The Houghton is 1550 to 1700W MAX (meaning 34% to 47% more current required for the Houghton). This will easily run off a 2KW inverter all afternoon with decent AH rating in LiFePO4 batteries. I will read more. Please, let us know of your progress.

sdgelkhart.com, $1350 delivered was my quote. See pic for a forum to visit to obtain in depth information on the Atmos 4.4, including installation and performance testing videos.

I have the Truma Aventa Eco in my LE2. I believe it is a 13.5 btu unit. It seems to drop the temperature down from mid 90s within about 10 minutes or less and that is in full sun. A smaller unit should be able to handle it, but it will run longer. On the flip side, an AC unit that runs for a longer amount of time will remove more humidity, so if you live in northern climates with cooler temps and higher humidity, a smaller unit is the right way to go in my opinion.

Yesterday high was 97 in Prescott, today milder and although this is more like August temps, we sat on our deck and do so every evening. When 90+ is the daytime high, we will be in the 70's by dinner time, sitting on our deck that gets the evening shade. We lived in the Austin burbs for 9 years. If midday in the summer, it Could be 107 and dry, or 93 and humid if the winds were coming from the gulf. Had a tennis coach once say, who was brought up in the country between H-town and Corpus, for 5 months it's Swamp-A$$! His words. We always remembered this coach for this and many reasons. That would be your hood @Ronbrink and not much different from your location @CRM, both coastal gulf swamp-a$$ locations. Yes, everything is bigger in Texas! Loved our time there. We also spent 4 years in S FLA in the WPB area, and if it was possible, we would have preferred being closer to Ft Myers, or miles +/- from there on the gulf coast. Our country has so many great spots to visit, just travel at the right time of year. No swamp-a$$ out here. AC units run more efficiently in dry air. Why are we home for 4 months of the summer, every year, while y'all are pulling you Olivers out of storage and traveling, some of it climate painful!? If say today, tomorrow, or over the next 3 months, we venture off the mountain to go ANYWHERE, in ANY direction, we drop 3000 FT elevation and climb +20F in the first hour. Our ONLY future summer trip would be to leave in May to get to ID, WY, MN, ND, Canada or en route to Alaska, before it gets too hot. We're home this summer, doing M&R on our newly purchased Oliver and will do a local trip in September, followed by our travel to the 2024 Oliver Texas Rally. Hope to meet you Ron and CRM if you venture the longer trip. We'll see some of you, hopefully more of you, and next thing you know it will be time! 😂