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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/26/2024 in all areas
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I am not sure about leaving it open while off. But Oliver did put out a video on cleaning it and operation.6 points
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Finally, going to have an oven. I checked the hotspots of the Toshiba MW/oven and the only place it got warm was the back and on top. So I decided to take the plunge with an abundance of caution while using it because I really miss: warm cookies, birthday cake, biscuits, pizza, etc. I did line the cabinet with 1 mm adhesive backed fiberglass high heat barrier. Luckily with a little modification I was able to use the old MW SS trim kit. So plug and play essentially. Again, I will be measuring the cabinet temperatures while using. I think the most likely problem may be that the unit gets too hot or prematurely stops working. Although every looks good so far, nothing abnormal or high temps The highest wattage pulled that I saw while using the convection oven and AC on high was around 2800 watts. Will try to only use one at a time though. Links: Heat shield https://a.co/d/14NmCvX Toshiba https://a.co/d/gGyB2Gc Best, Mike3 points
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There were all these white egg shaped objects all over the park and behind the moving truck. A polar white Tesla would have hidden better given the park landscape! 🤣3 points
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I clean the screen and blade assembly after each trip. You figured out the screeen, the blade is held on by a single set screw that comes off easily. If we want the vent open and no fan I usually just turn the fan down all the way to 10, it hardly moves any air. The vent is pretty noisy, once we open it it stays open. We got down to 43 here last night, both vents open and Vornado heater providing quiet, even heat. Mike3 points
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Q1; On my model the only way to achieve this is to turn the fan off, which will close the cover, then turn the vent cover knob to open the cover. Q2: Gently turn the tabs until they release the screen. Don't be surprised or alarmed if one falls out.3 points
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Rheostat Install on AC.pdfHello, I am sharing instructions I developed for installing a rheostat on the Dometic A/C so the A/C blower motor's speed and can controlled and reduced, thereby reducing the excessive air turbulence noise. FYI, the file size is large, I apologize for this. I tried compressing the file prior to uploading, but most of the content disappeared each time I compressed the file. I also tried compressing the photos within the file, but this too did not work. Thanks, GG2 points
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Ok, yes it is electric so comes with those concerns. But I have loved this thing since way back so was excited to hear they were going to be making them again. The details and prototype is out and so for I am intrigued. An onboard gas generator for recharging to extended range to 500 miles is interesting (to early to know what that means for towing). Still years away from production so we will see. Https://www.scoutmotors.com2 points
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That was my plan last January, when I went to Florida for a rally. I was going to stop in Murfreesboro on the way back to Ohio. But they were at the same rally I was, and then on to the Tampa RV show. Their plan was to schedule a bunch of jobs in Friday and Alabama to keep them someplace warm during the winter. We ended up meeting them at the Retro Reno shop in Jacksonville early February, where we stayed at a hotel on the beach while the guys did our trailer. Only you can decide if it is worth it. It certainly looks great, and makes washing so much easier. And as Bill said, these are some of the nicest, hardest working young men I've ever met!2 points
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I'm certainly glad that I had it done! The CGI guys are first rate both in the work that they do and the kind of people they are. I only wish that there were more people of their age with the kind of work ethic and attitude they have. The cost is basically a "push" for me and most of the people I've talked to. If you have someone that does a good job of polishing and waxing your Oliver you are fortunate but these people are not cheap. Sure, if you do the job yourself, you (hopefully) do the job right, but the time and effort are expensive in terms of what you are missing and how hard you are working. I've never had an "easy" place to wash and wax my Ollie. Since Twist is located in a storage yard I needed to make several trips back and forth all the while hoping that the weather would cooperate with my schedule. Now that its been coated it is much easier to wash and shines better than ever. Also, while on the road, the bugs are easier to get off. This depends a bit on how you take care of the trailer. If you do not live in a place like south Florida or Arizona and keep the Ollie clean (i.e. keep the bugs off and keep it washed or covered) the coating will last longer. But, then again, if you live in a relatively harsh environment you would probably need to wax more often too. From my experience, it seems that my coating will last well into two years and possibly three before needing to be redone. But, I just might have the CGI guys do a refresh this coming year because the Ollie has never been so shiny as it is after they get done with it. Bill2 points
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I guess I'm going to have to brave the fire ants and crawl under mine to see what the clearances are. My curiosity box is humming.2 points
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Thank you Jerry & Kathy for both answers! I turned the tabs, why didn’t I think of that, and I have the screen out now. Thanks again. I’m hoping for a procedure to turn off the fan without closing the vent cover. Chris wants the fan on when going to sleep where it’s just cool enough to go w/o A/C. When I wake up, middle of the night, it’s much cooler and I want to turn it OFF but keep the hood/vent open. The motorized lever mechanism is soooo noisy late at night! I muffle the sound with a pillow on the fan, then OMG have to do that again to open the vent, no fan. I’ve got to find the procedure, or I promise I’ll pull it apart and wire a dedicated toggle switch for this simple purpose.2 points
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Good to hear from you Mike. Another great upgrade in your list of many. Good work and I especially like your thin insulation fabric. Thanks2 points
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I concur with using Mobilith SHC for the jack gears, because that is what is recommended by Barker, the jack manufacturer. When servicing the jack head with the intent to replace all grease with Redline CV2 grease a couple of years ago, I could not remove all of the grease installed by Barker. So, I added Mobilth SHC to avoid compatibility issues. See this thread: I believe Oliver uses, and recommends, Mystik No. 2 red high temp grease, the middle tube shown in your photo, for all other purposes.2 points
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Our plan is a 23 day road trip to Central Texas and back. End point will be the Texas Rally at Inks Lake. Staying off US Interstates as much as possible. The average day driving will be only 2 1/2 hours per day! We may vary off, but here’s the plan: - Two nights on the Mogollon Rim. - Greer AZ another 2 nights. - Stopover at a city park in San Antonio NM, yes NM not TX! - 3 nights in Wonderful Ruidoso NM, right in town at Midtown Mountain RV Park. - To get through West Texas we’re staying at two city parks, free camping. So little public land in Texas as compared to the west but was happy to find almost every little farm town in West Texas has a city park offering free camping! - 5 nights at Inks Lake - Texas Rally - Yay! Looking forward to meeting Oliver owners! - On our return, we’lll head SW through Texas. First stop is lunch in Kerrville, a town that brings fond memories (our son Adam won GOLD in an USTA Tennis Tournament there back in 2010). Spend the night at Johnson Creek in Ingram TX. - Want to stay off I-10, so the only other way SW is to head towards Del Rio. Would love to stay there but not until a new Adminstration gets the border under control. We’ll stay a night at Canyons RV park in Sanderson. - Will visit Marathon and Marfa on the the way, then 3 nights at Davis Mountains State Park. - Rockhound State Park, Deming NM - Bighorn Campground, Silver City NM - Roper Lake SP, Safford AZ Then we’re back home! If you’re interested in these routes, stick around for feedback and pictures!1 point
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That's not fair! No wax job I ever did (cars, trucks, campers) ever was as slick or shiny as the Oliver after CGI had their way with it.1 point
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Ron, I was going to point that out :) While my experience has been mostly observing tire marks, it does make sense that oil/grease could also be forced to the road. In any event, I see them coming slightly ahead of time and am now slowing when I approach them. I was thinking that trucks with adjustable axles, such as cement trucks that lower their additional axles when fully loaded, were the culprit as I've seen some pretty low to the road when not fully retracted. But I'll have to defer to Google :) Thanks for the info.. John1 point
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I just watched Victron's video for the BMV-712. It says the batteries need to be fully charged twice a month to allow the monitor to sync. So, I guess I just charge the things and hope it clears up 🤪1 point
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Everyone does! The folks at the Mothership are even nicer than their camper. Bill1 point
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Well, curiosity got the best of me when noticing the ‘black tire marks’ at the ‘dark spots’ where road dips occur, so googled it: “Tire marks are often visible at highway dips because the sudden change in road surface causes increased friction between the tires and the pavement, leading to more pronounced marks, especially when vehicles are accelerating or braking while going over the dip, which can further amplify the tire-road contact and leave visible marks behind.”1 point
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Awesome trip report. I much prefer mountains over flatlands and snow over sand, but I always enjoy a road trip.1 point
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I hate these things. Takes a lot of elbow grease to remove them. I'm sure there is a product out there that will make it easier for $ but I'm a bit cheap.1 point
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I actually looked into the bump stop idea, but the clearance is so small I did no find any would fit and still be progressive in nature. IF one has overhead clearance when in storage, flipping the axle would give the clearance for a bump stop. I don't have any spare clearance so I stood down on the idea. GJ1 point
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I buy a heavy duty high performance grease and use it for everything from lawnmower to HD truck. I like simplicity.1 point
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On other models of this fan, the handle could be pulled down to disengage the motor. Mine won't do that. What you can do, is while the fan is still running, slowly turn the lever mechanism by hand to close the lid. Turn off the fan and the motor will recognize the fan lid is closed. Reverse the lever slowly to reopen lid.1 point
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There is a certain brand appeal for Redline, but I contend ANY reputable oil co that makes the red-type high-temp NLG #2 automotive wheel bearing grease will do equally well. Can be Valvoline, or Lucas, or many other brands, take your pick. I chose base on price vs. reputation. If you do not remove all the grease, clean parts with solvent (I used spent gasoline drained from my dirt bikes and yard tools), get all new grease UNDER, yes under the main gear, you are truly wasting your time. Just leave it alone or do it right, as you would be doing more harm than help. The OTT maintenance video is a joke. All he does is a visual inspection. Adding like grease on top is also doing absolutely nothing. Drives me crazy watching this! The NLG-2 grease is better than OEM. Do it as I had illustrated on page #2 of @John E Davies’s original post. I even received accolades from him which in probabilities is near wining the lottery! I pray @John is doing well! If you do it like I have demonstrated below, I promise it will last for many years, like 3+ years for full-timers and 6+ years for the rest of us. Our hull is now 9 years old. When I did this service last year, I could tell from experience, it had never been maintained in 8 years and was working fine. The ONLY thing that will damage this quality leveler jack is raising or lowering it beyond the upper (happens more often) or lower stops, which damages the drive gear attached to the motor. IMHO, those of you with Hull #s >1000, leave them alone until you have minimum 40K miles or 5+ years use, and then do it right. Show your mechanic my post and ask for like service. Or you could just look at it annually as “suggested by the manufacturer” and buy a new VIP3000 eventually. It is a great jack, will likely last 10 years if you want to forget-about-it! 🤣1 point
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There are a few installs documented. @Galway Girl and @rideadeuce to name a couple. Just search for keyword “Starlink.” These are not the Mini, but installation cannot be much different. I hope to buy one Dec-Jan and will document my installation. @Patriot has a recent thread on the Mini, and he is adamant on its being portable, stating the need to use it when the Oliver is camped where view of the northern sky is blocked. This is an important valid point. Mine will be installed on the tow vehicle, plugged into our Pepwave router, also installed in the TV. The Pepwave would look first to cellular signal, switching to Starlink when needed to minimize Starlink data used saving $$$. I figure that if the Oliver is blocked from the northern sky, which is rare in the SW where we do not have the tall trees of the east, I can park the TV in a better position which could be 100+ FT away and still have Wi-Fi access, broadcasted by the powerful Parsec antenna. I'm trying not to add more portable gear, the setup and tear down. Kinda sorry I invested in suitcase solar vs. another rooftop panel or just a DC-DC charger. It’s great that Starlink now has affordable options. Oh, and we have a monstrosity of a Winegard Dish Sat device, front of ours, yes bug collector, that I will remove soon. What a mess with all the screw holes OTT drilled in the roof (use 3M 4950 VHB tape).1 point
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I’ve had to replace the antenna once. If you want to remove the antenna completely there are a few steps. The antenna has the upper part big disc) and the lower part (mount) that is screwed to the roof. To disassemble there are three steps 1) the top part (dish) of the antenna is pushed straight down then twisted. This unclips the top of the antenna from the clips on the shaft. 2) With the top removed the top part rca cables can be unplugged from the top of the antenna. They will be tucked into the roof later. 3) Unscrew and remove the base shaft. You’ll need to cut the sealant to get it loose. Finally tuck the wires into the roof and cover the hole with a suitable body material and seal it with a marine sealant like 3M 4200.1 point
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It’s great to be back in Texas, what a well-run state! Business is key, great schools and sports, very well kept roads and great city/county/state parks. Not all the public lands of the west, but so much more open space than back east. We moved to Georgetown Texas in 2006 and moved out of Texas end of November 2014, so it’s been 10 years. I’ve flown in for business a half dozen times, driven from FL to AZ in 2018, but this is our first real visit to Texas in 10 years and we can’t wait to see old friends and new! Not considered a Boondocking state, though it appears every city or county in West Texas has a park with free camping. Some have free hookups! 🤣 Did groceries today at H-E-B, Big Spring TX. Given all the inflation of the last 3 years, prices considerably less than anywhere in Arizona, or likely most states. Last night we stayed at Yoakum County Park and tonight we are at Foster Creek Park, west of San Angelo. It’s not Yellowstone or Zion, but we have more fun at small quiet places I’m sure you know what I mean. Thanks for reading. Tomorrow we’ll be one of the early birds arriving at Inks Lake SP for the Rally! Come by campsite #71 to say hello if you are attending!1 point
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We spent 3 days and nights in Wonderful Ruidoso NM! They had bad fires and floods early summer and the village is still working cleanup efforts. Still an amazing beautiful place, wildlife walking around feeding on grass in town. Ruidoso is one of the true gems of New Mexico! We wrote earlier re the “White Mountains.” The area surrounding Ruidoso also uses this name: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/lincoln/recarea/?recid=78583 Last March we met a fun couple at a public Pickleball court while camping at Casa Grande AZ. They invited us and we took them up on this visit. Great hosts showed us around town, made us dinner, bought us dinner out (we tried to pay)! New BFFs and we played PBall all 3 days with a great group of locals and Texans that frequent this resort town. We stayed Midtown Mountain RV Park right in the village. We are often Boondocking and there’s good campsites everywhere but for 3 days wanted to be close to everything! https://midtownmountaincampground.com/ They had some sort of LED lighting system that made all the light speckles in the photo. Nice quiet place for being in town, good bathrooms, friendly owner. Elk and wild/feral horses in town, bear a mountain lions in the surrounding hills! We will come back often! IMG_3822.mov1 point
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My first rain gutter install was a total fail. I did it in sunny 80 degree weather, perfect! Unfortunately, we went from 80’s to 40s overnight and all the corners popped off. I reinstalled in 90 degree weather and overnight low was high 70s. Left the tape on for 24+ hours. It’s been years now and no issues. Pay close attention to the weather! Mike1 point
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I am currently acting as the Service Director overseeing the service department & technical support. Jason B. & Mike will be handling more of the daily activities while I will be putting a bit more time in traveling to our dealer partners assisting with Sales & Service training. I would say 75% of the time I will still be here onsite working with Rodney in sales & Jason B & Mike in service.1 point
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Seriously, Claudia knows what she's doing. She's trying to help others. The warning is out there. She posted a specific link to the defective product. Not ez rv gutter, not trim loc, so take it for what it's worth. Her sage advice after a big fail.1 point
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Well - yes and no. My hull 117 has a completely different microwave than yours. However, I had much the same with regards to the symptoms you describe. The "problem" with mine was the lack of a bracket that wasn't installed when Twist came down the production line. A simple phone call to Jason Essary cleared up the issue and got me the parts needed to fix the problem. Bill1 point
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That's why (IMHO) it's best to install the EPO/EMS right before your breaker box. If not, you can have a wiring issue between the pedestal and the breakers causing a voltage drop that won't be seen by the EPO if installed at the pedestal.1 point
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