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The simple answer is NO, and since when does an E-rated LT tire have thin sidewalls? Please do not take advice from Overlanders, Van-Life or or Rock-Crawler types! 🤣 The Oliver is simply a 7K LB rated trailer. Ours weighs in at 6500 LB and 40 PSI is enough according to pressure-weight tables, so I go with 45 PSI. Yes, OTT suggests even more pressure for legal reasons, since not everybody checks tire pressure each time out. https://tirepressure.org/lt-metric-tire-load-inflation-chart More pressure AND more plies in the tire construction makes the tire stiffer, the ride harsher, which is not helpful to Oliver trailer systems. Many owners have drawers and cabinets opening, which is a sign, but a stiff ride also causes real damage. You want a softer ride, in fact the E-rated tire is already too stiff. Most 7K trailers run on ST tires. Many Oliver owners have run the OEM tires at 80 PSI because that's what the label says on the side of our older hull and that's what OTT used to spec which was very wrong. Like you, we very often go, "down some bumpy dirt roads and truly off-gridding." There are more wash-board roads where we live and travel than most of you. You need strength in the drive tires on your tow vehicle, but the trailer should glide slowly over the rough terrain as much as possible. Think, why do off-road types air down when the terrain is rough? (to make them soft and flexible for better traction). And based on your location, cold weather also makes tires stiffer! We owned a class-C where a prior owner install G-rated 12-ply tires instead of the spec for Load Range-E. The ride was horrible. Every time the front tires hit grooves on the highway (almost everywhere) the front-end felt like it was being hit with a 100 LB hammer! Another example - we own a Lexus GX AWD truck. I added a 2-inch lift and suspension goodies. This truck comes OEM with P-rated tires (P for passenger). I wanted LT tires for our dirt roads. Everybody goes with an E-rated tire which makes sense if you are always pressuring down and crawling rocks but we are on city roads and highway 90% of the time. I purchased a Cooper AT tire because I could get the size I needed in a Load Range-C which is stronger than the P-rated tire but not stiff and harsh as E-rated. We run at only 32 PSI (not towing) and the truck glides down most roads. LOVE the ride and was so happy with this purchase decision! I will likely replace our Oliver tires with Range-C tires when the time comes, since it is all we need and the Oliver will ride more smoothly at lower pressures. We only need 45 PSI, not 80 and certainly not 110 PSI. BTW, welcome to the OTT Forum and congrats on your first post! I hope that my explanation helps! JD

TravelWell: This appears to be your first post, so welcome to our forum. For a 6,000 (loaded) trailer, the OEM use of an E-rated (80 PSI) tire is unusual. Oliver could easily have gone with less stout and lighter C or D rated. But true to the exceptional quality of OTT's, they went with the stronger and much thicker tires that are rated to carry WAY more load. The E-rated tires are much more resistant to road damage as our owners typically include boondocking and roads such as yours in our travels. There are penalties with going with an higher rated tires and they are weight, cost and ride as JD discusses above. That said, I have yet to hear of any OTT owner complain about having too good of a tire tire on their rig. On the other hand, going to an even heavier duty tire such as you proposed would gain little in endurance or failure resistance. But the weight and cost increase would be significant. The third consideration is the forces that high pressure tires transmit up into the trailer. Although our 80 PSI rated tires can handle this pressure, most of our owners are running their trailer tires at the 50 PSI or less on highway and 30 PSI or less off road. Doing so keeps stuff in the cabinets and cushions off the floor. Finally, I know of no OTT owners that use 110 psi rated tires on OTT's for all of the above reasons. GJ

True that, but not very much! Added benefit of the on-board air pump: each time the ignition is turned ON a few seconds of inflation is initiated to bring the bags up to the set pressure. Regardless of whether the vehicle is a daily driver or infrequently used, when the ignition is engaged the lost pressure is immediately restored. However, if wired to a constant 12V circuit and left unattended for a period of time the starter battery will be drained and possibly damaged in time. No bueno!

According to "The Dyrt" the top three are: 1 - Cougar Rock 2 - Ohnanpecosh 3 - La Wis Wis Note that I've never been to any of these. Bill

Excellent points! I still carry a small generator and at times two, especially when in hurricane evacuation mode! Both are dual fuel models and mostly run on propane; the smaller DuroMax XP2200EH exclusively on propane, the larger Westinghouse iGen4500DF on gasoline, as needed during said evacs for multi-day continuous runs, otherwise propane when camping. Since my TV change from a pickup truck to a cargo van, I no longer carry the 4500 routinely as before 1) the 2200 meets my needs to run the air conditioner during nights when needed, 2) it was primarily a backup when leisure traveling/camping, but no longer considered a necessity, 3) it occupies space, adds weight and has a slight smell of gasoline, which wasn’t a problem in the truck bed, but now is since the van’s cargo bay is within, and 4) there’s comfort in knowing I can always run the Atmos on inverter as a backup for a/c!

Steve, you should add an electrical sub-panel for your garage. You can replace the 20A double breaker with a 60A. Run 8 AWG wire from there to an inexpensive 60A panel. Buy a panel kit that includes some 15A or 20A breakers. Try to separate the wiring to freezer, etc. to separate breakers in the new panel wherever possible. You could add a 30A breaker and a 30A RV outlet on an outer garage wall. You have 150A service, so this is possible for about $200 at the Depot. I’ve added sub-panels for 2 outbuildings, our spa, and one in the kitchen so that we can have the fridge, microwave and air-fryer all on separate 20A breakers. You can bring your home out of the 70s. Ours was built in 1980, but I learned in the 90s, on my first project, a 1943 farmhouse with a pole barn that needed power. One new sub-panel is a good weekend project after some good planning. Best wishes, JD

Since your profile and signature does not say what your truck is,,,, and I did not read every post.... If you have a F-150, the forum repeatedly says that the Bilstein's on the rear are a great improvement, and air bags also. But it not worth the cost to install 5100's on the front of a F-150, unless you really want a ride height adjustment. GJ

My house, built in 1976 with apparently no building codes observed, is severely under-powered and under-wired. It is an all-electric home with a heat pump for heating/cooling, and only has 150A service. The entire garage is on one 20A breaker, with two wall outlets, one ceiling outlet, and two ceiling light sockets (one of which has a screw-in outlet for four LED shop lamps.) There are way too many continuous and/or intermittent loads on that one 20A breaker: the aforementioned LED shop lights, garage door opener, 40 year old chest freezer, dorm fridge, stationary air compressor, 3-4 Battery Tender Juniors, the Oliver, an extension cord to my truck to run the fridge/freezer at home, a buried extension cord to an outdoor weather station and security camera, occasional woodworking tools, two Makita 2-slot battery chargers, a Bose Wave radio w/Raspberry Pi attached, cable TV signal booster, and probably more that I'm forgetting. So, I keep the Xantrax set low to limit how much it draws from the house. The only loads are the fridge, battery charger, parasitic loads, and occasionally the AC. The vast majority of the time the trailer isn't plugged in to the house at all. The batteries can handle any typical loads, and even AC if I'm not using it continuously.

If label is missing or hard to read, look at the backside of the wheels. If the drum brakes backing plate shows it is bolted on in a 4-bolt square pattern, you have 3500# axles and 10” brakes. If you see 5 bolts in a pentagon pattern, you have 5200# axles with 12” brakes. Good to check, just to be sure, in case of mis-labeling!

Maybe this post will provide you with some answers.

Good question. As chairperson and founder of the Oliver Rabbit Hole Society, I think you may in time have the experiences and qualifications to be a member. 🙂 GJ

This long awaited swap-mod is now checked off my to-do list! Like many, I tolerated the noisy Dometic Penguin ll long enough; so glad I was finally able to take decisive action with this install. After a couple years of mulling over the various replacement models being marketed, a unit emerged that caught my attention; the newly available Atmos 4.4 seemingly met all of my expectations. I will forego the removal of the Dometic, here is how I proceeded forward: First and foremost, all AC and DC power sources were turned OFF! Scaffolding and equipment/supplies were then staged for Dometic ‘liftoff’ and subsequent Atmos ‘lunar landing’ (only appropriate since I live a couple miles from the NASA Mission Control Center in Houston). Roof area in need of cleaning. Notice the raised fiberglass landing on my year model and that the former condensate drain tube was simply disconnected rather than cutoff. Roof area throughly cleaned and prepped. I decided to adhere the square self-adhesive foam roof seal directly onto the fiberglass and then apply non-leveling Dicor around the cutout perimeter to further ensure the best seal possible. In positioning the foam seal, care was taken to center it as evenly possible, thereby allowing about 1/4-3/8” of exposed fiberglass to lay a bead of the Dicor and finger smooth to finish. Interior view of the Atmos being positioned over the roof cutout. Note the use of the mounting bolts as a guide, as recommended by SDG. Because the ‘rough cut’ edges of the layers of fiberglass (inner and outer hulls, and spacial filler) were inconsistent, I used the foam seal as a reference to accurately center and align the unit; distances measured to each respective bolt. Initially, installation instructions were followed by adhering the supplied straight piece of self-adhesive foam onto the bottom of the unit as a rear support, but it did not make contact with the roof due to relief of the aforementioned fiberglass landing. Alternatively, the foam piece was cut in half and each adhered onto the fiberglass, in like manner as the square seal, along the outer edges of said landing. This adaptation proved very effective in application and purpose, as the last of the next three pics demonstrates. Now that the exterior unit is properly positioned and supported, it’s back inside to further installation. As a side note, I made use of a portable a/c to buffer the heat and humidity of the day! Although my son helped with the heavy lifting and positioning, I cut him loose and completed the remaining tasks solo. Before proceeding, I used foil tape to treat the end of the aforementioned condensate drain tube and secure it to the side. Next the installation of the fabric air plate duct subassembly was started (provided Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Manual details the process). Note I used foil tape on both the upper (at Atmos bottom) and lower (at mounting frame) duct plates, even though most installs viewed applied to the mounting frame plate only. Between the upper and lower duct plate installs, the ceiling assembly mounting frame was bolted in place and hand torqued using a screwdriver only (torque specified in Manual). The AC power connection was very straightforward. The ceiling assembly’s junction box cover was removed, a strain relief fitting installed at one end (the other end had a preinstalled protector) and respective wires routed inside. I reused the Wago Lever-Nuts from the Dometic install, but first tinned the stranded wires of the Atmos lead for optimum assurance in application; electrical tape was used to further secure the Wago connectors. Ground wires were secured per the Manual. The junction box cover was then replaced, DC thermostat wire bundle loom wrapped and tucked away for future use, and ceiling grille fastened in place. . I’m very pleased with this mod, quality of the Atmos and ease of installation! I should mention that SDG preinstalled a SoftStartRV. I will provide an update once the furnace wiring and thermostat mount is completed. A special shoutout to @rideadeuce for forging the way with his install of an Atmos!

I found that @KarenLukens mentioned this in an o-l-d post, but didn’t see that it got much traction. I’m a bit of a water purist (ahem) and have installed R/O water systems in all of the last four homes I’ve lived in and even gave one a a Christmas Gift to my sister and BIL. (I can hear the snickering..) Even when you have great water available, I like to get rid of as much chlorine, fluoride, lead, etc, etc, etc as possible. Also - regardless of how clean my “fresh” water system is, I’ve never drank the water from an RV or marine water system. (I’ve seen the crud that builds up in the lines…) Without adding chlorine or maybe iodine to water, even “good” water will go bad and can start growing stuff. I was curious if any water-nuts out there have installed R/O systems in their Ollies. NOT “whole house” systems, just ones to supply drinking & cooking water. Of course, the main problem to solve is “where to put the tank?”. The filters are pretty easy to find a home for. It looks like there might be enough room in the curb side basement - and it’s close to the water valves and pump. I’d likely set it up so it only filters water while hooked up to city water, and delivers it to an auxiliary faucet near the galley sink. Maybe even feed an instant hot water thingy for tea or instant beverages as well. If the “wastefulness” of an R/O system is a concern, that “waste” water could even be diverted to the main fresh water tank - where it could be used for toilet flushing and handwashing. Any others have thoughts?

We ordered and used the AB Lifestyles Oliver sheet set and mattress pad. They fit perfectly. We don’t use the top sheets anymore because they were too snug down at the feet end. We just use a regular twin bed sheet and tuck it in a little more. It allows a little more maneuver room for our feet. Mike

Yep, but you are faster on the key board than I. 🙂

Steve: I was good all the way to the words "is actually a good idea as it protects the circuit from both ends". That logic applies to circuits that have the ability to power up the home-run from both ends. Like the DC to DC charging system. However I do agree that having a fuse at the front jack, although somewhat redundant, does serve a great purpose. When I leave my trailer unintended in a boondock location for which there may be a theft concern, I lower the tongue and remove the fuse. Certainly makes a quick scope, connect and getaway much more effort for the thief. GJ

This GMC Savana 2500 conversion van owner is getting ready to have Bilstein 4600’s installed front and rear. I wished the 5100 Series was offered for my make and model. I plan to have a shop install the front shocks due to the heavy coil springs, given a quote of $180; I can manage the rear installs.

THIS is the 2024 Garmin inReach SOS Year in Review. While there is a bit of "sales" in this for their system, it does give information on activities that "caused" SOS to be triggered. Bill

We have had the Garmin In reach Explorer. Nice security. We haven't had any issues today.

If that’s left to right, new 12” brakes, bearings everything… that’s decent. If that includes their installation labor that’s a very good price! 😂

Hey JT, Also take a look at my other post for getting your ethernet cable into the Oliver in a neat and professional manner: "Don’t cut your Starlink Cable! There’s a better way to install Starlink…" For the Mini, you will still have to run both the power cable and ethernet cable to do what it sounds like you'r describing. The second router is a great idea because, as you know, the WiFi/speed decreases when the Mini is placed further away from the trailer. We travel in the Pacific Northwest with lots of trees so we often have to move the dishy farther away to find a clear sky. Flexibly in that regard is a must for us too! Cheers, Geoff

Great, thank you!

Lew wrote back that it's 916.83 for each axle. John

Steve: So I better understand: Does your Xantrax 12A limit apply to the shore power into your trailer? If so, why do you choose not to use a setting of or approaching 16 amps that a 20 amp circuit is rated to carry continuously?? Thanks GJ

If I recall my conversation with Oliver and Dexter we have the updated axel, 052:3500. If I remember it is the 4-leaf spring which gets the 3500, so when you get the 5-lead springs you will meet the 5200 axel. Again you would need to verify this. You shouldn't need to change out your axels.

I installed the Airlift Loadlifter 5000 system on our 2019 Tundra two years ago. It effectively reduced both squat and "jounce" when towing our Elite II, and added cornering stability. Our air bags rely on a manual air pump, which I prefer. It only takes me a couple of pumps with a bicycle pump to raise each spring to the 25 PSI level we prefer when towing. I was already carrying a bicycle pump for my mountain bike. I always carry a tire pressure gauge, so measuring the PSI of the airbags is easy. I cannot compare to the Firestone or RAS Roadactive systems, as I have no experience with either. But it appears to me that the RAS Roadactive system is not adjustable. We like being able to reduce pressure with our Air Lift system when not towing, then raise it again when towing. For what it's worth, the RAS Roadactive system presently costs $589 for our Tundra vs. $379 (with rebate) for the Airlift Loadlifter 5000. Given our positive experience so far, I would again choose the Airlift Loadlifter 5000 because it works well, for a significantly lower price.

I installed an Air Lift system on both my former Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 and current GMC Savana 2500 TVs for the primary purpose of reducing squat when fully loaded and trailering. The system will also compensate for uneven weight distribution in the TV cargo bay from side-to-side. The remote control for the onboard air pump is a great feature for ease of adjustment, based on situational needs; in general, 25psi for daily driving and 35psi when trailering with the Silverado. I will determine like settings for the newer Savana with more use. The trailering psi provides for the optimum ball height specified by Oliver, 23.5” as I recall. It is important to wire these systems to operate only in the keyed ignition ON position, since pressures are affected by temperature variances and minor seepage overtime; otherwise the starter battery could be compromised! As a bonus to this system, when dumping the waste tanks the front of the Oliver can be lifted to speedup the process and ensure a complete dump. There have been times when this is necessary due to poorly designed dump stations or an awkward approach. It is a fact that airbags will not increase vehicle load or tow capacities, but based on my experiences they do improve overall handling, especially when towing. That said, I never felt the need for the Anderson WDH. You can pan below to view my post titled ‘2019 GMC Savana 2500 Cargo Van’ and dated October 24, 2024, wherein there is some discussion on the Air Lift install.

Installed two sets of Firestone rear differential airbags on two pickups and three sets of Timbren suspension enhancement systems on three pickups, all for towing. Currently running Timbren SES on the rear differential our current Ollie TV, a 2024 F-150 5.0L. My main reason to use them is to reduce rear end sag when towing trailers. I like airbags because they are adjustable depending on load. Still have Firestone airbags on one pickup with about 10 years of service. They leak a little, so check pressure weekly when towing with that pickup. Timbren are lower cost and easy to install. It also depends on how much load you carry in the pickup bed when not towing with the Timbren system. My F-150 still has about 3/4" air gap between the rear differential pad and Timbren rubber blocks giving a nice ride when Ollie is not attached with our normal camping gear loaded in the pickup bed. The Timbren system gives a firm ride when the differential pad is contacting the rubber load blocks with Ollie connected. Original Ford rear differential jounce blocks: Here's a photo of the Timbren SES load block with air gap between the block & differential pad when Ollie is not connected with camping gear in F-150 pickup bed. With another brand pickup I had with Ollie disconnected and camping gear loaded in the pickup bed, there was still enough load for the Timbren load block to contact the differential pad which gave a firm ride, not desirable. In that case airbags would be better than the Timbren SES system.

I appreciate your sentiment. I simply cannot repair or have the mental acuity I had when I was 80 year of age. I purchase those repairs and maintenance until they will no longer fit my budget. Then I must no longer enjoy the Oliver and the joy it brings to my quality of life. I had to make the same decision when I no longer could sail as a result of manual dexterity. Thank God I have the where-with-all to cover maintenance and other costs associated with my Oliver..

What’s outside in open air is not monitored. Had a Class A and C, both had Onans. They are frame mounted in a cavity that has no openings to the interior, exhaust piped out a few inches. If you have an external LP leak in your Oliver, your monitor will not sense it. Those of us who have had a leak knows, the nose knows! 🤣 Ours had a leak when a rear Alum weld broke on the frame where the LP line is connected.

Excited to be a new Oliver owner. I have a lot to learn about my LE II and am sure this forum will be valuable in that process. Hope to meet some of you somewhere down the road.

We also have a Honda EU2200 in the bed of our F-150. When we need the generator, I remove it from the truck. It sets on the ground outside of our trailer or truck for "Just in Case" bad things that happen. Having it run in your TV or Tongue Box has several problems. One is that up front you have no line of sight to see a fire. At least if you put the generator on the ground and to the street side, if it cooks off, you have a chance of seeing the fire ball directly. Now I have never heard of a Honda generator "Self-Immolating"..... but if ours does, we will not be exiting the trailer about 4 feet from the fire. With it on the street side we at least could have an opportunity to see the fire ball and exit the trailer on the curb side. I would then grab the cord and disconnect it from the generator. Then use our awning crank as a hook to move the burning generator away from our Ollie. Or it could just sit in a box in the box at the front of Ollie and maybe the auto fire extinguishing system will overcome the leaking gasoline fire. Or if you run it in the TV bed, and it has a "problem", you would have a great excuse to buy a new TV. But then, what are the odds? Maybe something to really think about I suspect. 🙂 Safety John

Don't know how many of you have heard about "Salt-A-Way" but, this stuff really work good on salt. Anytime when my trailer incounters salt i.e. salted roads, salt air, I wash the underside of my trailer with Salt-a-way. You can purchase a mixer with the solution. Spray the underbody well and you will not have issues with the alunimun frame or axles. Salt-A-Way neutalized salt. Don't have to rinse. This stuff also work well in removing the salt buildup in natures head urine bottles. I just add some with clean water, let it sit overnight and the salt disolves itself. Rise and you ready to go.

THIS is why I feel the need for R/O in the Oliver. Wife and I TRY to drink more water (except in Italy or France of course - where wine is less expensive…) and I was literally alarmed as I saw we were going through a 24 bottle case of water every day or two. The gallon jugs cost more than the equivalent number of 16.9 oz bottles, and the 2.5 gallon jugs are even higher - and still add to the plastic in the ocean or landfill. I had this issue licked last season with my portable (no tank) R/O system. I’d fill 8 1-liter recycled plastic bottles and fill our totable water bottles or coffee maker from those. Unfortunately, I seem to have left my R/O system (and my pressure regulator) in storage in Texas. So we’ve been pretty bad for the environment lately. 😥

We didn’t blow that fuse - but had to pull it when the original CO/Propane detector started throwing false alarms - at 3am of course. No fun being awakened without real cause, being deaf for 5 minutes, or having to dislodge the two panicked cats from the ceiling. And yes, it’s not an ideal location for a fuse. I was loathe to replace the failed detector - still supposedly WELL within its stated service life - with another unreliable one. So we ordered this one. https://a.co/d/3SUEvPm It sticks out a bit further, and it’s brown instead of white (which I actually like) but it has the advantage of actually having a readout that shows the propane or CO PPM that it’s detecting.

That statement is poor information. If fuses weren’t reliable why would they be in virtually every circuit in the world? Having two in a given circuit is a redundancy, but it’s never a bad idea and in many cases is actually a good idea as it protects the circuit from both ends. If you’re a decent mechanic you’d already know that there are two fuses and you will have to check both to find the fault.

Have been enjoying The forum for past few month, picked up our 2025 Elite2 this morning from our Ft Worth TX Dealer. Ready to go, already have our site Reserved for Guntersville.

Lumber or a curb ramp can save some bumps. We have a big "dip" at the end of our drive. Without lumber , the hitch can scrape. Also, approaching at a big angle helps, vs straight on.

I was really surprised on the trip over to get an average of 13.5 mpg from Clear Lake to Austin (with some city traffic), then 12.2 on rest of the trip to Inks Lake SP doing hills. That's better mileage than the 5.3L in the Silverado, especially since more power and being a heavier vehicle. Liking the upgrade!

Our Hull # 050 has exactly 11 inches from the floor of the garage to the bottom of the rear jack feet. BUT, our early build came with the (then standard) 16" wheels and tires. The standard for the currently produced trailers is 15" wheels and tires which might make about 1/2" difference.

Yes, do this. The shackles (correct term?) can flip over on the Oliver leaf springs and when that occurs you’ll have to run over another curb to straighten them out! Happened to me once when testing an EZ-Jack and there is a thread here about reversing it. Just measured ours at just over 12”. Be careful to stop the electric lift prior to topping out so not to damage the jack gears.

Hopefully I don't come off as being too argumentative on this discussion but attached is the instruction sheet for adjusting the lift on the 5100 series Bilstein shocks. Also including a link from Shock Surplus with videos discussing this attribute. IOW's these shocks are indeed ride height adjustable. Bilstein makes these shocks now for just about every truck on the market including Tacomas so I have no doubt they also have them for RAM trucks as well. The 4600 series and 5100 Series are different in this regard too. In order to jump up to a completely assembled coil/shock combo one has to move up to the 6112 shock-strut assembly to the tune of just under a grand for parts alone. However that shock is designed and built for serious off-roading with a much larger diameter tube compared to the 5100 series. In the meantime regarding my initial post on this thread, still haven't found a local who can do this install any less expensive so far but understand too the cost of living in my area is and has become very expensive. Minimum wage locally is $20-$22 per hour and thats just for flipping burgers and stuffing tacos. Average home prices are hovering just under a million now. We didn't pay anywhere near that but have been living here for almost 50 years too. In the meantime still exploring the options. Hoping anyone else seeking to do this finds this info helpful. https://www.shocksurplus.com/products/bilstein-5100-monotube-gas-shocks-24-239394

Have read this many times regarding the danger of dealing with spring compressors and why I didn't want to go down this route. Too late at this point for complete assemblies since I already have the shocks on hand. The complete assembly set was quite expensive though. Thanks Have a note into one of the mobile repairs outfits locally but no call back yet, still waiting on that.

If you have front struts yes, just shocks then no. BTW, you can visit an Oreilly's, AutoZone or other national auto parts stores and borrow a spring compressor for the day (they charge your credit card for the tool and refund upon return). Hope you find another alternative. Shops here usually get you in the next week (service shops not RV shops). I should head north and open an auto service shop if there is that much demand! just kiddin'!

I run 20 psi when just truck’n around, 30 when towing the Oliver, Today’s dump at 60 psi!

Scotty - I my opinion - use the Andersen at least until you get some unquestionable word (in writing) that you do not need it. The liability incurred by NOT using it is certainly more than most (if not all) of us can afford. Bill

I have an F150 Super Crew and likewise the owners manual makes similar statements, anything over 5000 lbs and 500 lbs tongue weight should use a WDH. Another way to look at it is look at the max tow and tongue weight then cut it in half without a WDH. I will add this, over the last couple of weeks I have installed new rear shocks, Bilstein 5100's and the Road Active Suspension System to my truck. The difference is not subtle! Better ride, better comfort, better handling, and better load carrying ability and stability with these new products. I would describe the ride as taut but smooth. There is a certain (probably modest) amount of weight distribution with a properly installed RAS setup. How much I do not know and the company does not make statements addressing this spec. Due to the rear height increase with the RAS system it was necessary to reconfigure my truck ball hitch (lower) to properly accommodate the Oliver hitch. Took the rig out for a short spin this afternoon, parked it a couple of times to measure how level the E2 was with new kits and still the the nose is down by an average of about 3/4's of an inch. Not bad, but probably does indicate the need for the Andersen WDH for those who want absolute level while towing. I should also add the tanks were empty and trailer only partially packed, with nothing in the truck bed. Hope this helps.

Try it with and without and you will soon know what you prefer. I skip the Anderson around town, campsite to nearby campsite, but always use it on the highway. There are so many threads here where owners' of 250/2500 trucks voice opinions, many do not use it. My manual says yes for 5000 LBS or 500 LB hitch weight. It's night and day to me when towing over bouncy roads.

Tesla really needs to put out another truck model that basically combines the body of the Tacoma with the electronics of a model Y. They would sell a ton of those… I’m not a big fan of the cars but I’d buy one.