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Just to bring everyone who might be interested in this subject up to date, here is what has been (and is) going on: All Oliver Travel Trailers up to a certain date never had these "Hull #" plaques but when it was decided that all future Oliver would include them, the Company had plaques made for every one of the trailers that had ever been built. These plaques for the "older trailers were then given to the then current owners either via Service appointments or at Rallies over the next few years so that these owners could install them in their Ollies. Given that the "box" of older plaques has been in the possession of one Oliver employee (Matt Duncan) since they were made, it is unlikely (but not impossible) that any were "lost". However, it is likely that even though a specific plaque was given to an owner, that owner never actually installed the plaque inside the Oliver. It would appear that this is the situation for the two owners of older Ollies that we have checked for "missing" plaques. Again, if there are any current owners of older Oliver Trailers that do not have a plaque - please contact me to see if you plaque is still in that box. For anyone (to include the two that we have not found) that would still like one of these plaques, we are investigating what the possibility is of simply adding those numbers to the next "normal" order Oliver Manufacturing does. I understand that these are ordered in lots of 1,000! Therefore, depending on when the last order was placed it just might be some time before the next order is placed - we will (hopefully) find out soon one way or the other. And, depending on the answer to that question we should find out what the cost would be per plaque. Hope this helps. Bill

This happened to me several times the first year I had the trailer until I added a filter behind the air inlet grate in the aisleway. Fine lint was being ingested through the inlet vent and wrapping around the sail switch which finally made the sail switch stick. I removed the switch from the outside and removed the spun on lint and it worked fine for a while. I did that 3 or 4 times. It finally needed to be replaced so I did and got a backup switch as well. Now 2 years later I've not had to bother with it although I check to make sure lint is not accumulating again. The filter did the trick for me. We full time so the furnace gets used plenty. The furnace will not light unless the fan blows the sail switch to a position for a determinate amount of time and then allow propane to pass for ignition. The fan just blew cold and then shut down and made me think I was out of propane :) Good luck, John

This indicates that the sail switch in the furnace is not operating properly.

I thought to find an old thread I had remembered reading, just after I had joined the OTT Forum. At first, I did not understand the value of this feature. How would Victron Power Assist be of value in a real-world use case? Thank you @Ty J and others who had contributed here (now over 2 years ago). We love our Victron Multiplus II, OMG! Camping in south central Kansas, a muggy day that was going get hot, mid-to-high 80s over the afternoon, and we wanted to go for the day... Leaving our older pup Charley to rest in the Oliver while we were gone. The Dometic with SoftStart would not run on this public "20A circuit" alone, without blowing the breaker. I set the MP2 limit setting for incoming amps to 15A to be very safe 75% of the 20A commercial circuit (to lower the probability of blowing the breaker). We ran the Dometic Pengiun 2 A/C, set to 69F. The 600 Ah batteries were high 90s SOC due to our Orion DC-DC charger running as we drove in the day before. The Victron app showed -40A on startup, so I was thinking we would lose 30-40% SOC while gone for 4-5 hours. We were gone a full 5 hours. The SOC on 600 Ah, in Power Assist mode, dropped only 20% (compressor only running 60% of total time). All was good, A/C running, the Oliver interior nicely cooled down and all systems running as programmed. These are the results. Notice AC OUT at 1684W - 1226W AC IN = 458W supplied by batteries (at 96% efficiency: 458W / 13V x 36.7A). I've never before seen this screen on the Victron Connect app for the MP2. There truly is a working Power Assist mode, not only in how the MP2 Inverter/Charger functions, but as a listed display mode as shown. This feature works well and as advertised. 😂

This thread is a follow-up thread of John & Debbie's 3500 pound vs. 5200 pound axles on a LE2. In this thread my intent is to discuss the type of lubrication system/processes that Dexter offers in axles for out OTT's. Old school is the tried and proven manual annual cleaning and greasing of axle bearings with a seal replacement. Yes an annual PITA. Then Dexter began making their EZ-Lube and NevRLube axle lubrication systems. They apparently have stopped offering the old school design. So if you want a new axle it will be EZ or NevRLube designs. With many owners choosing to retrofit their Ollies with the 5200's, it was stated that there have been zero failures of the new NevRLube axles. This simply is not an informed statement. There has not been a lot of knowledge in our area, but for other trailer designs the NevRLube' S were a disaster. Both designs have their challenges. Here are some opinions from outside our egg shell: https://www.gdrvowners.com/forum/operation/suspension-amp-brakes/95041-dexter-nev-r-lube/page2 So what are your thoughts as they apply to our OTT's specifically? GJ

So our 31st anniversary was spent a few nights ago. Nice to spend it in the Oliver! Today is Chris' birthday and our 2nd year Oliver Anniversary to the day! 'Twas 2 years ago today when I surprised Chris with the Oliver in our driveway! See the first picture of this thread for our Day 1 picture. Two years going strong and so far 92 overnights in our Oliver (will hit 100 soon on this trip)! We are camping near Mason City, north central Iowa. Was hoping for some pickleball today then dinner out. Pickleball will likely have to wait unless it clears out this afternoon, but we'll have a nice dinner out either way. Thinking of the Blue Heron Bar & Grill. Hard to imagine a place that has 5-Stars on Yelp with 89 reviews. Wow, it should be good! One more night here and tomorrow we will be with Chris' sister in Farmington MN, just a 2-hour drive from here. Charley's birthday is next week too, when he will turn 11. He sleeps a lot, is a bit hard of hearing, but still our great family dog! Isn't he pretty? Proudly protecting his Oliver!

I just figured we would try to hit 50 pages. I have gone back a couple of times through the thread when I couldn't sleep. better than counting sheep.😳

I hate that! I still have it on my list to remove all the old caulk on our 10-year-old hull. Our hull went for OTT service in 2018 and 2020 according to receipts I have. They must have done all the messy caulk on top of caulk work, yes sloppy to say the least. What a shame on your only 1-year-old hull! There is no reason in the world they should have gone over yours. Caulk should last YEARS and caulk over caulk is never a good idea! Here is an example of the handywork of such an over-zealous artist! 😞 Picture is after travel on a dirt road which makes it show fully --

Here’s a quick and easy shortcut! After following this thread, I decided to clean our window tracks too. We live in the rain forrest and they were full of redwood needles, moss, dirt and mildew. The white rubber seals were terribly stained even after a hard scrubbing with a stiff brush. I was going to order new seals until I gave them a quick soak in “30 Second Outdoor Cleaner” from Ace Hardware. It's amazing! They looked brand new. I picked up some pipe cleaners to clean the track, but I didn’t need them. Instead I used a straight brush and a water hose nozzle. The water jet went under the fixed window section and washed all kinds of dirt out of the weep holes. I just pulsed the water jet until it ran clear. We moved the bedding and seat cushions out of the way, but there was minimal leakage inside. I'll be doing this every year now. Cheers, Geoff

Your guesses make for a good starting point. I'd get up in the attic with a bunch of blue paper towels. Take the panels on both sides of the attic down - you don't have to remove them or disconnect any of the wires. Lay and/or tape the blue paper towels near/on the areas that you suspect (i.e. around the "Oliver" sign, around the hole into the main cabin, in the area of the rear view camera, as far as you can reach towards the a/c, etc.). Go outside and give this area a good soak with the garden hose. Go back inside to look for "dark" spots on the blue paper towels which will give you an indication as to where the leak is coming from. Good luck! Bill

Bill, A couple just purchased a 2015 trailer and they bumped into another owner out West. I posted your last post. I have now posted a copy of your post for all to see on our Facebook page John

Done an hour ago😊

My old Voyager monitor is in the mail. Let me know if it survives the trip! Mossey

P.S. I do not "DO" Facebook. Just to make sure that ALL older Oliver owners know about the plaques and what could be done to obtain one - could anyone that is on Facebook let these people know to contact me so that I have their hull # to add to the list. Thanks! Bill

Handsome might be more like it - but - certainly "chill" looking either way. Congrats on ALL the milestones and have a safe trip. Bill

Sweet🐾❤️

Close your screen while standing inside and look at the top curve in the screen door meets the frame. Keep the actual door open as you will not be able to see the gap with the actual windowed door closed. You will clearly see a gap where the door does not meet the frame for the screen door. I think it is just a side effect of the frame being mounted to the curve surface of the trailer. I would not try to bend the screen door to match as I think it would collapse the thin door frame. Simple enough to just add the furry seal. I looked at several different year models while at the rally, including the two 2025 ones on display and the all had the same gap. Hope that helps.

Spent the night NE of Omaha, just into Iowa at Arrowhead Park. It was an OK overnight, very nice host. He kept things very clean and neat but somehow too many flies everywhere. Thankfully they stayed out of the Oliver somehow. So as we're driving down the road, Chris is on her phone searching for local farms stores, for farm fresh eggs and meats. After a 5-mile dirt road detour we found Wild Rose Pastures in Madison County IA. A knock on the door and only a 12-year-old boy was home. Chris talked him into calling his Dad, saying tell him I'm a "safe old lady." After Dad talked him through the transaction, we left with 2 dozen farm fresh eggs at $5 per. There were big beautiful healthy hens running all over the place, a little nervous that we were there, ducking in and out of the barn! We also purchased 2 small T-bone steaks for only $15, a herd of cows beyond the farmhouse. I tipped the young man Zane $5 for his help in the transaction. You can eat well in Iowa on a budget!

So we headed north out of Kansas. NE Kansas has some great countryside. We drove through the cute town of Marysville, cobblestone or brick streets throughout the downtown area and it appears they area is known for black squirrels. They must have 100 of these squirrel statues, on every block! We got to Lincoln Nebraska by late morning and played pickleball at Peterson Park. There were 10 courts and a lot of local players. None at our level though, so Chris and I played Skinny Singles. as the locals were thinking, who is this old couple! We started playing tennis together 34 years ago and are usually pretty even in competition. It was Chris' day (and her birthday week) so she won 2 of 3 very close games.

Amazing product to remove these mildew stains! Yes, water pressure is all you need to clean the internal dirt out of the weep holes. Still happy with the $100 upgrade to switch to black rubber and have them fit tightly end to end without the 1” gap we had on each piece with the OEM installation.

John, here’s a nice video from Nate from Explorist Life explaining power assist. When my Xantrex craps out I’ll definitely go the MII route.

See my pm

My family and I have had way over a dozen trailers. Most had boats on them, and one was a pop-up. As we approached retirement we knew we had had enough wave rocking and flapping canvas and needed a serious upgrade. So compared to all my previous experiences, the Ollie windows are super fantastic! Especially now that I have seen Chris's video!!! LOL GJ

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ALL: With the reorg at OTT, their experienced staff is taking on new and higher level roles. This nearly always entails a transition period with learning curve opportunities such as the above. I think this issue is a classic example of corporate change. The above owner discussions went a bit off the tracks. It is unfortunate that the "atmosphere" had gotten where it did during the delay. I appreciate seeing Jason E. stepping in and calming the waters, as he has effectively done periodically over the years. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Dan: I think you missed an important point that Mike made. He suggested you measure the distance between two points. He then basically stated that if it was welded wrong, that it would be a Barker warranty claim. In this regard he is factually and ethically correct. Granted it could have been a bit better stated. But it was a favorable suggestion to you. Instead the burner under the pot was turned up. In consideration of previous suggestions, and Jason E's post, there appear to be two paths open to you. Buy another jack. Bench check by comparison both jacks, and provide photo's of which clearly "side by side" show the defect you have. Then politely provide to both Barker and OTT Service the factual evidence of your situation. Personally I would chose the bench check route. And I still believe that "the right thing" will be done. As I also previously stated: Patience. In the mean time I would shim up the bed cover plate and keep having fun while Barker and OTT review your Bench Check report. GJ

Another sneak peak from Oliver about the new windows, to me they don’t look like acrylic, but hopefully dual pane! https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1CDPcaif7x/?mibextid=wwXIfr

All set. But you have to question the logic behind putting a hole in a solid fiberglass camper just to caulk a plexiglass sign into it!!

Good morning Folks. I have a friend who has a car lift in his Mancave at Treasure Coast Vault and we are going to use that to lift the units on and off. I am giving him the Dometic for his Race Car Trailer for installing the unit. I ordered a 2 wire Honeywell battery powered thermostat for the Gas Heater so that I can give him the control box for the Dometic. I am thinking the drain will prolly be abandoned.

On the screen door. I will take a photo of it next time I go out to the trailer. Also, when in Alaska we asked the locals what was the best way to get ride of the mosquitos once they get into the trailer as they are extremely hard to "get" with all the curved surfaces in our trailers. Answer we got and we have since proved it works great is "Windex spray bottle on mist. Knocks them right out of the air and it smells good at the same time". Also, helps keep the trailer all nice and shiny inside when we wipe it clean. LOL.

We went overboard on the Oliver sign, but i think it's permanent . Replacement lens, Butyl tape, mechanical fasteners, plus caulk. 5 years in, and good. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4823-third-taillight-reinstall/?_rid=33

Maybe all you need is to adjust the shoes out. Something you can do quickly on the road vs. a full brake job. Lift one side at a time using the Oliver jacks. If the wheels spin freely without hearing or feeling any brake drag, then they need adjusting. I was able to rock the wheels backwards first and then forward, while Chris was lightly on the brake pedal (or using the actuating lever on the brake controller), and the self-adjusters would click tighter each time. If this does not work, or if you're working alone, first place a jack stand for safety, and get under on the back side of each wheel, remove the rubber plugs and adjust each by turning the gear through the opening. The wheels should spin of course, but when the shoes are close, adjusted correctly, the wheels should slow down and stop spinning soon enough.

It gets better!

Cut out the sealant and recaulk it Not sure what sealant Oliver uses. Give them a call. Install gutters over the sign and windows.

This is not a matter of talking sense into anyone, but only a matter of knowing a bit of the history of these older plaques. Anyone that has an older Ollie without a hull # plaque should contact me. Bill

Not sure this will help...I just experienced a failure of the light as well. I do not like the rivets either. I talked to Jason (Jason in parts department) and he informed me they discontinued the line of lights they were using and went to a new style that uses screws. It's the same diameter but the hole pattern is slightly different. I used one existing hole and had to drill the other 2 to mount it. The profile is different as the lens doesn't bow down like the old one did (see photos) I like it better as it's easier on the eyes because the lens is flat and not bowl shaped. Good luck! John It is still a touch light.

Criminals are apparently having good luck tracking vehicles with Apple AirTags. Can't see why us good guys couldn't do the same. Of course, if the guy who steals your trailer has a stolen iPhone, too, he could look for it.