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FYI We updated our web page with pix and campground maps from our Fall trip (Sept-Dec): Sept-Dec 2025 Trip on Loneliest HWY, Alcan Springs, Grand Canyon & More We've also started planning our trip (Red Lines) to the Oliver Rally in October along with stops at NP and Quilt Shops (Missouri Star) and Ft. Wilderness. Craig & Rose

Just checked our forecast here and it appears freezing rain and a chance of a wintery mix forecasted with no significant snow fall accumulation. Certainly all subject to change. 3 years ago when we had our 24KW Generac installed, I still remember a few neighbors thinking it was sorta crazy to spend money on something we hope we never have to use. 🤔 The power does not go out that often which is true however, when it does it sure is nice to have a backup/contingency plan. The freezing temps are predicted to be diving down into the lower teens for the next week or so at night here in Western NC. Suffice to say, during extended power outages with no heat it does not take long for a home to cool down and pipes to freeze. Eventually food in freezers with no ⚡️will expire. For times such as these we are really glad we got our LNG fueled Generac installed. Stay Prepped, Stay Safe and Stay Warm!

Can't hurt as long as you don't restrict airflow.

Good news (at least for the more southern states) it appears as though the storm track has moved a bit further to the north. Bad news (at least for the southern states) this could mean more ice down there.😮‍💨 Bill

Probably most members and readers of the Forum are aware of the "brewing" winter storm that is forecast to hit the southern states this weekend. But, for those that are not - it is forecast to start Friday over in the mid to northern Texas area and move through Oklahoma and Arkansas. Then on Saturday morning it moves over Tennessee, the northern part of South Carolina, and North Carolina. Continuing through Saturday and well into Sunday the storm then moves slightly north before exiting off the coast in the mid Atlantic region. While totals of snow are as high as 18 inches, it is the ice that will cause many problems - downed power lines and roads that are very difficult to clear. For those not familiar with the southern States - many simply do not have the equipment to deal with either the ice nor the amount of snow that is forecast. If anyone and or their Ollie is in this area of the country, NOW is the time to prepare for this storm. Be careful and best of luck to everyone in dealing with all that is to come from a winter wonderland. Bill p.s. HERE is one forecaster's take on the storm

@topgun2 @CRM & @Steve Morris, Appreciate the replies! We have a newer heat pump installed and it does a good job heating with our winter temps in southern NC. Thanks,

rideandfly - Given the temps that are forecast, when we had a heat pump we would have been on "emergency/backup heat" which didn't use the external heat pump unit. However, with one of those newer "fancy" units, they work at lower temps than ours did. If that is what you have and the forecast for sleet/ice is correct then I'd also do what you are thinking. Obviously, you should give the "tarp" or whatever you use on the top good enough support - sleet/ice is heavy, particularly in the amounts that is forecast. Bill

On my wish list!

My OLEll has the new style, which solved much of the problem with trays coming loose in older models and causing damage to box doors. However, one should take care and ensure both catches are fully engaged when closing. Occasionally upon slamming the tray into the secured position, only one of the catches will fully latch correctly. It’s easy to overlook, so owners with this type tray need to visibility verify that each spring-loaded catch is properly seated. A second ‘slam’ usually gets it done! Because these catches are horizontally mounted at each side of the battery tray, it is more difficult to further lock them in place in such manner as @jd1923 and @mossemi have successfully achieved. Has anyone figured out a way to deter theft with these new style battery trays? Early in ownership I replaced the stock 12V Bright Way SLA/AGM batteries with 6V Trojan T-105 flooded lead acid batteries. In time the off-gasses from the Trojans deteriorated the battery securement straps, both the webbing and plastic buckles. This caused the tray hooks to loosen and require vigilant inspections. When upgrading to LFPs, I made a new set of straps which have held tight thus far!

Yeah I’m debt free and have been researching retirement for 2 to 3 years and honing my portfolio skills for six years, getting everything where I want it. I’m good. Still scary though, but I’ve also studied the emotional piece too.

My battery tray keeper is not as elegant as Horace's or as secure as jd1923's, but it keeps my battery tray in place and it’s easy to remove and replace. Mossey

Zoom in on second pic, you may recognize some friends!

We have a 15 year old heat pump in northern Ohio w/5000W heat strip auxiliary. I don’t remember the SEER number, but it was an average unit when installed, not a high efficiency model. We’ve had snow piled on and around it, coated with freezing rain, ice, etc., and have never had an issue. Ours has a reversing valve that sends heated coolant back through the heat exchanger to help with ice buildup, but it’s not a complete solution. Very rarely do I need to go out and break ice off, more for my own satisfaction than a real need. It just keeps on chugging.

Agree, planning to have 3/12 pitch (new at this) and making it easy to set up/take down along with compact storage. Will see! 🙂 Thanks,

We have a heat pump here in southern NC and have a question, has anyone here experienced damage to their heat pump or familiar with damage to a heat pump from excessive freezing rain/sleet/snow build up on the unit's fan and exposed components? I'm thinking about installing a temporary 4'X4' tarp about 2' or 3' above the unit during the storm to keep excessive amounts of ice out of the unit. Since we've lived here winter storms have not been as bad as local news stations are forecasting this storm to be. Thanks,

The warmup band just started playing in CT and the plows are running. Expecting the main act Sunday.

Art and his new I235?

Good luck to all in the path of this storm from your friends up north.

Excellent warning Bill. We are used to this sort of thing in our neck of the woods but people in that area certainly are not. Saw the pattern for the storm late last night thought oh boy buckle up down there, looks like a doozy.

Owners: Mike and Carol’s “Battery Box Separation” thread well addresses the battery box structural securement to the frame and hull. My intent of this post is to re-look at the battery tay and straps and their securement. Despite our OEM straps being VERY tight, twice I found one of them had gone slack and come loose from the tray hook hole. Not good. I am starting this separate thread to focus on how to ensure that our OEM tray and batteries “stay put”. So basically, I would like to learn more about how the tray is mounted and then how to super contain our batteries in the tray. I would very much appreciate your sharing your thoughts on how the battery box embed plate and straps do their job. Some questions follow: · How is the battery box embed plate attached to the structural member below? · What’s you guess as to the dimensions of the embed plate? · Are all battery sliding tray fasteners buck-stopped by the embed plate? · I assume that the embed plate is aluminum. Can it be tapped for additional hold-down bolts. If yes, what bolt length will work best? · Can you share your DIY solution? GJ PS: As far as the tray slide coming open, I like Horace's (Hull 93 Maverick) Dec 17, 2020 idea. A couple of these would increase security and would prevent movement should the slide fail. My upgrades to his idea would be to use a Riv-Nut in place of the nut and washer. Maybe also pop rivet the aluminum angle to the tray sheet metal. Combined, less parts to get lost when doing battery checks and service. Thanks GJ

Here’s the usage chart this week. Orange is heating and red is emergency/auxillary electric heat strips. Temp has been single digits to the 20s, with wind chill as low as -10. The thermostat is set at 63 degrees. It’s a comfortable 71 degrees here in the Florida panhandle. 😁

Actually, thinking back to when we had the heat pump installed, it could not be under any structure. The original heat pump was installed on the edge of a patio, and then some time later the owners added an aluminum awning. When we replaced the heat pump, we couldn’t put in in the original location because code said it couldn’t be under the awning several feet overhead, even though it was right at the edge of the awning. So we had to pour a pad to the side for installation.

No regrets here! 👍🏻

Yep - Just heard from a friend in State College, PA that they are expecting 11 to 12 inches. But -11 to 12 inches is much different in PA as compared to VA, TN, SC, NC who (for the most part) do not have the equipment, personnel or infrastructure to deal with these things. Be careful out there. Bill

Here's the old & new style battery tray:

Doesn't @jd1923's post from Oct. 2024 solve two possible problems: preventing (or slowing down) theft and locking the tray in position?

Wish I had a pic of mine - but - no angle metal needed on mine. Good point on the wing nut if your point is to deter a thief. I've found that the wing nut makes things easier to get into and out of (there isn't that much space in that spot). But, then again, I'm not worried about "unauthorized" access to my batteries for a number of reasons. Bill

GJ - Remember that the later model Olivers have two of those spring loaded catches on the tray. This was done to lessen the chance of failure at that point. Unfortunately, I do not remember exactly when Oliver made this change. As far as Horace's ideas - why not simply drill a hole for the bolt a bit closer to the sliding portion of the tray, use a wing nut on the that bolt and do away with the angle piece of metal since the bolt head will be enough to stop the tray from sliding out? Bill

Roger on the newer sliding trays having double latches. Likely more new ones than older ones like ours. On the deletion of the aluminum angle: Don't know as my Ollie is on your side of the pond. But possible. But I seem to recall that the geometry of the area was such that just a bolt and nut was not doable. My guess is that for our vintage of sliding trays Horace figured it out and needed the aluminum angle to make it work. I would wager one of Art's home brews on that! On using a bolt and wing nut: I would prefer using a Rev-Nut if it will fit. One less thing to not get lost (nut), Besides when leaving Ollie for some time, I would like it taking some time to open the drawer from an anti-theft perspective. Kind of like removing the fuse from the front jack. Make hooking up a 600# tongue a PITA.... go next door to the SOB and steal that one. GJ