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Here's one that I LOVE everytime I park the trailer: It's a bubble level that I mounted on the face of my basket so I can see it from inside my TV via my backup camera. Makes leveling the trailer (side-to-side) almost a one person operation (except I still need my partner to shove the Anderson wedges under the tires before I let the brakes off.) I did seal the backside of the tubes with epoxy per a suggestion from (I think) John Davies a few years ago. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25563-AccuLevel/dp/B000EDUTOA/ref=asc_df_B000EDUTOA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312128189269&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12342072316441648381&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008247&hvtargid=pla-448524087016&psc=1

We got: Solar package: no power in plenty of the best campgrounds (National Parks like yellowstone). Cheap Battery Upgrade: $$$ saved from more expensive system is going into Lithium batteries No Inverter: going for a nicer setup, whenever I have time Extra 30 amp connection: makes life a little easier in some campgrounds. FM Antenna: we watch movies on local storage or stream Backup Camera: It's a bit dated in resolution/etc, but having had a camera since pickup is great. WiFi Booster: we actually upgraded to a newer model of the wifi ranger (this may come standard). We've barely used it for WiFi boosting (campground wifi is usually slower than our LTE), but have the LTE upgrade installed externally. So we have an LTE modem mounted on our roof. I use the external wifi antenna to run Ring Cameras with a little more signal strength. I do wish they offered a system with more advanced LTE/WiFi capabilities - as 5G is around the corner. Cell Booster: we got it, messed with it a little. I've never been in a spot where we had cell from the booster but not from my phone. Probably because we use t-mobile that gets some better coverage from bands not supported by the booster. For remote communications I have an InReach that I use for the "still alive, weather sucks" communications to friends and family. This is the one option I would leave off if doing again, but you might be different. Fiber Granite: glad we did it, but now that Foy is doing table tops in gorgeous wood, I might have just purchased one of his. Convection Microwave: cookies in the woods are awesome, french fries are awesome, brownies are awesome, baked asparagus ... etc.... super happy with this. Just wish I didn't have to keep resetting the time everytime we lose power or move. Composting toilet: great option, zero regrets, do wish that we could switch urine to black tank at campgrounds and back to jug when we don't have a sewer line-but never dealing with a gross tank is probably a plus. Hypervent: I wouldn't describe it as hyper. Looking for something else under the bed that goes more airflow in case we do run into condensation or seep. I did use it in the closet to keep clothes off the wall where condensation is a problem (not get) KTT Mattress: we went with the "king" layout, skipped this. Put a piece of foam across the cushions and it sleeps well enough for us - and I have back problems. Shower Curtain Track: got it, don't use it. We just cover the toilet with a garbage bag to ensure no extra moisture intrudes Basement passthrough: we mostly go through the hatches to get stuff, but its an easy way to plumb some heat into the basement when it is really cold and you want to make sure all the plumbing gets a little extra heat. auto backflow valve: we got it, glad we did as it does clean up the bathroom aesthetic a little. Just wish they also installed one for the gray tank dump, so we wouldn't have to walk outside to dump during full hookup time. Andersen no sway: it was worth it with our navigator (F150 SUV), on the F250 we rented - we couldn't notice when we had the chains on or not. Front and rear propane: got it, haven't used it yet. Maybe someday? We have a pellet grill/smoker that we use for outside cooking. 30lbs propane tanks: got them, you could probably get 30 lbs propane tanks for less than the upgrade costs from Oliver, but glad we had them from the get-go when we hit unexpected severe weather. Truma: have it, like it, just wish they installed the "Comfort plus" instead of the comfort. When boondocking, it wastes too much fresh/gray tank if you wait for warm water. Regular hot water would do the same as it is the water in the line from the tank near the back to the faucet in the front that is wasted. Electric anti-freeze: wasn't available when we purchased, but I added it. Not sure how much of a benefit it is vs just pulling the easy drain before we hit the road. When we are stopped and actually running water we have propane on and that protects the truma as long as its on at least "eco" mode. Electric Key Lock: it's nice to not need the keys all the time. I just hope RVLock integrates with some home automation system at some point. No Storage basket: the trailer was already a little tongue heavy, so we avoided this to avoid extra weight there. Plenty of room in TV/trailer for everything we need. Where it would be useful: a generator or gas cans with an SUV where you don't want to smell fuel vapors. Bumper receiver: we like/use it for our bikes sometimes, but mostly our bikes end up inside the tow vehicle so they don't get all the road spray from the back of the trailer Dual power awnings: big fan of this option. If it's getting windy a quick tap of two buttons and I save the awnings and trailer. Auto retract worked as advertised when a freak microburst popped up. Having the awnings on both side is good for keeping mist/rain off the windows/tracks/weep holes and slightly helps keep indoor moisture under control. Not sure I would want to go out and crank both sides when weather changes late at night in the rain. Micro-air e-z start: we generally don't run the AC (loud), but we did use this option a couple times to get AC off the generator.

GJ- The Rock Tamers have a couple of "bolts" that are supposed to be used to both "lock" the Tamers in place and to help "level" everything. In my case, I had to install a couple of small shims in order to get it looking level with the rear bumper. There is absolutely no problem with the backup camera and the "zoom" feature still works great when hitching. However, the bars at the top of the Rock Tamers do interfere with the sensors in the bumper. This causes them to "sense" that I'm too close to something and they sound an "alert" whenever I put the truck into reverse. I could adjust these so that they would sit below the level of these sensors but I don't like the looks of them that way. So, I simply put up with the warning.

Having never towed anything as big as our Oliver before, I add the ASA Electronic backup camera for a little piece of mind. With 2 years and 20,000 miles behind me, it clearly helped many times. Last trip out to the Rally, the screen was all cloudy. I thought maybe the camera was just dirty. A closer look found that it was full of moisture! I sent ASA an email and that got right back to me. Bad seal was the diagnosis. They issued a RMA and I removed it and shipped it out to them. A week later I got a Brand new camera. No charge. Got to love companies who do things right. Thanks ASA, you have a customer for life.

I bought the amp and found out that it was not needed for either my full sized Ram pickup or my shorter Land Cruiser. There have never been any issues with connecting, except when a sensor battery gets low, which is to be expected. I have never even needed to raise the dorky antenna mast on the display.... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2482-review-tire-traker-tt-500-tpms/ IF you needed to install it, a good spot would be in the left overhead cabinet at the bathroom divider wall. You could splice into the power and ground wire for the cabinet lights, that is where I mounted the Garmin backup camera transmitter. John Davies Spokane WA

I am looking to install Garmin Backup camera and trying to decide how and where to put. My question is do you need a power switch if you splice into the power line for the tag light since the camera would only be powered up when Ollie is plugged into TV. Then I could just attach the camera to the tag plate and if the signal is adequate... done. Thanks in advance for any input. Mike

I got the Voyager backup camera system when I purchased my Ollie. I like it a lot, but my only complaint is that the monitor is so large. At the Oliver Rally I noticed that their demo trailer had a smaller Voyager backup monitor in the unit. I went to the web site, and found that the new monitor is a 5.6 inch model, as opposed to the 7 inch model I currently have. The 5.6 inch model is available from eTrailer for $286, which seems a bit steep to save some windshield real estate. The 5.6 inch model appears to have a much better cable arrangement than the larger one. My main reason for posting here is that ASA Electronics has a Replacement Rearview Mirror Monitor, that shows your Voyager backup camera image in the rearview mirror. Seems pretty slick. The web site says The Voyager mirror monitor works with all Voyager cameras and is a perfect replacement option for rearview mirrors on Ford, GM, Dodge and Sprinter Chassis. While it would not work with John Davies Toyota, it might be useful for others. I searched on Amazon with "Replacement Rearview Mirror Monitor" and found a variety of manufacturers.

Update, I have used this system for two camping seasons without any issues. At first I was pretty paranoid about the hardware loosening from the often violent up and down motion at the rear of the trailer. I retorqued the bolts a couple of times, I got a little nut movement the first time, but never after that. I do check them annually, when I check stuff like the front jack attach nuts and the hitch and suspension bolts. Even when I forcibly backed the rack into the stone siding on my house, it did not budge. But the stonework sure did 🤭 Note to self: a trailer backup camera only works when you actually turn it ON! John Davies Spokane WA

You'll need at least a Class III hitch receiver, and a single, standard 7-pin connector. I think that most any ½ ton truck with a tow package will come with both of those. They may all come with stronger Class IV hitches - mine did. The backup camera that Oliver sells is a wireless unit. I believe that if you want, Oliver will wire the trailer for a physical camera connector, but it's not something that's necessary unless your truck specifically has onboard systems that you want to take advantage of. Oliver University

Look! I backed up without Annoying Park Assist thing on, and this almost looks doable alone when it comes time to re-hitch, am I right? Used the Ram’s backup camera.

I followed Topgun2's advice and executed a similar install to enable a swivel arm in our new F350. (EDIT - I also pulled the 20A fuse for the Power Port before doing this work.) 1) I started by removing the dash tray (I used painters tape to protect your dash from scars from the plastic pry tools). 2) Snap off the "speaker cover" it is hard to pull off as it's secured by clips in 4 corners. 3) Remove 2 - 7mm bolts in the front (windshield side) of the tray. 4) Remove the 2 - 7mm bolts on the top of the radio stack front surround. 5) Pull out the radio stack surround, and loosen 2 more 7mm bolts below the radio facia to remove a retaining facia (holds on the side trim stacks.) 6) That allows you to pull straight out on trim to the right of the radio which includes the a/c vent and more importantly access the back of the power point (cigarette lighter). 7) Splice onto the wires from the Cig Lighter port. Feed the wires up into the area above the radio and below the speaker tray. The wiring diagram below was supplied by the Ford BBAS service for 2021 F350. The Cigarette Lighter B+ is the Green/Brown Stripe wire, and Ground is Black with Blue Stripe. Finished install with Garmin all setup. Since the tray removal and wiring was a little tricky I made a quick video showing tray removal and re-install. I considered using the up fitter switch, but realized that there wasn't enough current draw to warrant all that effort and using up a switch. Also, I learned that the "through the firewall" wires ended up making me wish Ford would allow 6" more wire for the "through firewall" feeds. They are so short, you need to completely remove the fuse panel to get access to the bundle of 4 through firewall wires. So I stopped that effort. I wired into the same dash 12v power port circuit as Topgun2. That port dash circuit has a 20Amp fuse, and my devices don't pull more than a couple of amps normally. My backup camera plugs into the 12V power port in the tray, and my Garmin into one of the 2 USB ports. Here's the video showing dash tray removal and reinstall. Dash Tray.mp4

We have two full camping seasons under our belts now with our Elite II, and we’ve only had a couple minor problems with things that are out of Oliver’s control. We had water in the backup camera lens (Oliver sent a replacement next day and it was an easy swap out), and a gasket on the bathroom fan cover came loose and needed replaced. Everything else still works as new. We shopped around for several years, going to RV shows and dealers comparing trailers, and were very close to purchasing an Airstream Nest, but found a lot of articles and web posts about huge problems with the Nest (Airstream has since discontinued the Nest). Once we did a visit with another Oliver owner and then did the factory tour and saw how they were built, we were convinced. The Oliver company and people have all been great to deal with. When the family name is the company name, it makes a difference.

John, Excellent installation. Thinking about installing a back-up camera on our Ollie, too. Edit: Hope you don't mind if I build a similar back up camera installation. Been looking at different backup camera systems, was not aware of the Garmin backup camera used with the GPS until seeing your unit.

I'm looking at backup camera options and I noticed a pretty large wiring bundle running to what I'm guessing is a light for the license plate. Does anyone know if there is a reverse light wire also grouped into that bundle?

Good idea regarding practicing on large empty parking lots, it will definitely help to gain some confidence. Regarding backup or rather rearview cameras. The backup camera we have on our TV is invaluable and makes it so easy that I can do this by myself, love it. We also opted for the rear view camera on our Oliver and my enthusiasm for it is not so positive, though it is still helpful to some degree. This might be the one and only complaint I have about our Oliver. Image quality on this thing is abysmal especially when compared to the factory installed Ford backup camera. Perusing the manufacturers website one would think this thing has crystal clear vision and image quality, nothing could be further from the truth. Worse yet is there are no guides to tell you how close things are and given the very wide angle lens you can't depend reliably on your own judgement. And the monitor is a technological cruel joke that only a troubled mind could have invented. After this last trip I came home and started shopping for an alternative that can be used with our iPhone, turns out there are quiet a few options available. Haven't purchased one yet but probably will. I hope the good folks at Oliver read this and make plans to change to another more capable rear view camera for future customers.

FYI, all factory truck backup cameras, and many aftermarket cameras, only work when in reverse. Typically they get energized when the reverse lights come on. This is not so great ... I think most of the rvs we've delivered yo Alaska have a fulltime rear view camera. It would really be nice if all of them worked that way.

(1) How difficult to future pull wires and piping/tubing ? (2) What standard wiring is put in place in all trailer builds for electronics options even if they are NOT purchased from 'Oliver Trailer'. . . . Helpful to know for owners that might need to do aftermarket install of some electronics ? *************************** - (1) I was wondering about asking for empty sections of PEX tubing to be left in place during the build as conduit for future installs of wire , tubing etc. / / / / Perhaps this is overkill as it might be just as easy for us to do ourselves. . . . Any thoughts ? The stories about modifications and some pics and videos of the basement areas make it seem doable to run things in the basement. Wiring to the overhead / roof seems another story. -(2) Electronics Options: Cellular / WiFi / Antenna / Backup Camera / / / / / / / - - Looking at the current state of electronics both capability and cost it is no surprise to anyone that electronic things are changing quickly. For example: WiFiRanger was bought recently by Winegard and there are WiFi boosters in the Winegard lineup with integrated LTE cellular for a few hundred dollars. Keeping up with technology is a bit of a nightmare for a manufacturer and getting the most bang for the buck is challenging for the consumer. e.g. $449 Winegard , ConnecT 2.0 4G2+ (4G LTE + WiFi Extender + Over-the-Air TV + AM/FM Radio) for RVs (WF2-95B) ( 16" x 8" , 3.7 lb) / / / / / This shows up on Winegard website as 'NEW' and as 'Not Purchasable' so I am guessing it is the latest greatest and is on hold for virus delays or some such manufacturing hold up, but it shows what is around the corner. Seems like one $500 item to replace three Cell, WiFi, Antenna gizmos totaling about $2000+. BUT . . the 3 gizmos are available right now even if they are a bit long in the tooth. *************************** POSTFACE: As we try to fill out our 2021 Build Worksheet . . It seems that we have just missed the era of Wild West free-for-all factory custom modifications and are now somewhat locked into the standard configurations. It is understandable that as Oliver grows and services multiple markets each with their own regulatory systems they must to some extent standardize their products . Oh Well . . . So be it . / / / "Tell us again grandpa about when 'Oliver Travel Trailer' custom made this and that gizmo and modified such and such widget on 'Old Betsy' that we have known, loved and traveled in for all these years."

OK let me update. I looked over my 'Build Sheet' as it currently stands. Yes, they added the ANDERSON ($799). But the BASKET comes as part of the "Outdoor Pro Package" which includes, in addition to the "Aluminum Storage Basket," the following: Front and Rear Propane Quick Connects Rear Bumper Receiver Additional 30 AMP Convenience Connection ------ Not sure I can do away with "the basket" and still get the other stuff (which sounds useful) because the basket is part of the "package" addon. I will ask. ---- My other options/addons on the build sheet are: AC Easy Start; Hypervent Condensation Prevention Matting Water Heater Option: Truma AquaGo Comfort Tankless Water Heater with Electric Antifreeze Kit Power Package Option: Solar Pro Package for Legacy Elite - Two 6V AGM Batteries, 230 Watt Solar Panels with Charge Controller, 2000 Watt Inverter. Electronics Pro Package Option for Legacy Elite: 4G Cell Phone Booster, WiFi Booster, Electronic KeyPad Door Handle, Backup Camera. And lastly, the "Shower Track Package Option."

Not the large vent I had envisioned, but I do hope it's the white version . . . . it will blend in with the Oliver's white exterior. Here is the info I received from Matt Duncan, OTT Marketing Director We just started building 2021 models. Here is a list of most of the changes on a 2021. - Girard Awnings replace Dometic (standard is powered) - Furrion stereo replaces Jensen - Vizio smart TV replaces Jensen - Furrion backup camera replaces voyager (option) - MaxxFan bath fan I believe we added a 12v/5v charging station back under the dinette and a few other electrical changes. Decor options are now packaged to included flooring, upholstery, and countertops. These are on our website.

We don’t have our Oliver yet; delivery is scheduled for December 7. Once you decide to purchase an Oliver and put down a deposit which secures a build date, you will be assigned a sales agent. First and foremost, meet with him/her in person or by phone and explain your camping expectations: where will your travels take you; long road trips or short outings; camping facilities; recreation; etc. Also share your budget and anticipated options. We did this when we ordered our Leisure Travel Van and were very successful with our choices. Getting input from Ollie owners is also a good way to “talk through” the options decision making process. This is how we’ve outfitted our Oliver Elite II Twin, based on previous RV experience, including the reasoning behind our choices (items in red are no cost options). Two Mattress upgrade - $1598; regular pads would probably be fine. You can always add memory foam toppers or upgrade mattresses if you find the need. Fiber Granite décor - $1799; this is purely cosmetic as I don’t think either countertop choice is more durable than the other. I wanted to break up the mostly white interior. Ultrafabric upgrade - $299; we had Ultra-leather upholstery in our van and love its durability Hypervent option - $179; protect sleeping pads/mattresses from moisture damage No TV antennas - $0; we don’t watch much TV on the road; only an occasional movie when it rains; one less thing on the roof. Standard Curbside Awning - $0; no street side awning since we use awnings very little; manual awning is no longer available as Oliver has changed awning vendor. Black Cabinet Doors - $0; I don't want to see the things inside the cupboard when doors are closed. This option will also break up the white interior if you choose the standard counters. No Microwave - $0; will use some of the additional cupboard space to store a Breville Mini Smart toaster oven No Outdoor Pro Pkg - $0; we’ve never wanted outside propane connects, don’t want the tongue storage basket since we plan to use our bike rack between the pickup and the trailer, and rear bumper receiver is too small for our bike rack. 30# LP tanks and 30amp convenience connection will be ordered separately. We have a small, portable LP tank we can carry in the pickup if we want to use a propane grill or fire ring. Standard Porcelain Toilet - $0; I have no desire to maintain a composting toilet. Standard Water Heater - $0; we wanted this in our van, but Truma was standard and we could not downgrade. With the standard heater you can run on LP or shore power, on demand hot water is not a “must have” for us and Truma service techs are scarce in our area, should we need warranty work. In the past, we would turn it on 10-15 minutes before we need hot water, then turn it off until needed again. Lithium Pro Pkg - $8999; this was a tough decision, but we decided it offers the least maintenance, shorter charging times, and more amp hours available with an installation designed for the Oliver; Plus it pays to keep on top of technology these days. Solar Pro would be my next choice - $4999 No Electronics Pro Pkg - $0; will purchase cell phone booster separately 30 AMP Convenience Connection - $499; to connect auxiliary generator from back of pickup Cell Phone Booster - $629; I went back and forth deciding on this option. We do travel in areas where cell coverage is marginal. The cost is comparable to what we could purchase elsewhere, but with the wiring done by Oliver. It will also serve as a WiFi booster, using our jet pack cellular data plan. No WiFi Booster - $0; we have a jet pack for data No Backup Camera - $0; my husband is a confident “backer upper” (retired truck driver) and we are always traveling together. In addition, it would be just one more electronic device to manage. No Keyless Entry – $0; again, one less electronic device. Keys work fine and we have keyless entry on our pickup so we can lock a spare key in the cab. As someone else mentions, this is an easy DIY project if you decide you need it. No Weight Distribution Hitch – $0; our tow vehicle is an F-350. You should discuss this option with Oliver since you plan to tow with an SUV. No Storage Basket Option - $0; this would get in the way of our bike rack. Other factors; It is just an additional step to secure cargo when breaking camp, security of things stored here, plenty of storage in the covered pickup bed, plus I like the clean look of the tongue without the basket No Rear Bumper Receiver - $0; our bike rack is 2”, thus the smaller Oliver receiver would serve us no purpose. No Lagun Table - $0; we would eat at either the dinette or outside. We might use it, on occasion, but it would be yet another thing to stow away at bedtime. Basement Access Door - $179; I plan to use this to store things we don’t want to go outside to get, such as bottled water. It will also be useful as an access to a clothes hamper or for storing shoes. I think it’s a good value and not something I’d want to DIY. No Auto Drain - $0; another electric component. The manual valve will do fine No Shower Rod/Track - $0; I’m not keen on the way this looks/works. I plan to use a short tension shower rod in the doorway and possibly suction cups over the toilet area, if we find a curtain necessary. I do like the idea of being able to shower with the door open. Graphics - $150; one color silver grey metallic pinstripe graphics on sides, no front graphic, no graphic on tire cover, no rear name or hull number If we had opted for the Solar Pro Package, instead of the Lithium Pro, and left out the decor upgrades of ultra fabric dinette cushions and metallic graphics, our options would total $9882 - within your budget. Before making any final decision on options, be sure to watch/read material in the Oliver University as it pertains to your choices. Hope this helps!

Fantastic guide! I currently have the Oliver supplied backup camera excluded from my build and I've been doing some research on what is out there (not much!). The Garmin BC 35 is my first pick so I was once again surprised to find that you have already shared your experiences with the BC 30. Are you still satisfied with the BC 30? The BC 35 looks pretty much identical other than the slightly improved resolution (640x480 vs 320×240).

I know solar will top off any batteries (Lithium included) during a day trip. I'm hoping there isn't a problem with just a fan or a few small things running in the Ollie while towing at night without the hot lead from the TV. My understanding is that the configuration of the trailer harness lead does vary from vehicle to vehicle, so your mileage may vary with this answer. With my TV (older Silverado), I have a standard "always hot" lead on my trailer harness - nothing fancy - it's a 12v x 40amp circuit on my truck. I removed the 40 amp fuse to kill that power just about the day I brought the truck home 14 years ago to "not use" the lead. I didn't like the idea of having to worry about disconnecting the trailer every time I parked the truck to protect against phantom power draw or whatever else might lead to a dead battery - and at 40 amps it could happen very quickly if not careful. Some trucks are wired so that the lead is only hot when the ignition is on and many come with a dummy fuse in place of a real one so an owner can enable the lead only if needed. I'd prefer that but I've never bothered rewiring my truck. I am going to wait and see what other owners do here because of my inexperience with travel trailer batteries in general, but if I have to put my fuse back in to make that lead hot I'll look into a heavy duty alternator and rewire to have it only hot when the ignition is running. As it stands now, I'm running a small data center in my truck already so power is more limited there than it will be with the Ollie. When on a roadtrip, we typically have 2 iphones, an ipad mini, my truck performance monitor, my backup camera, our cellular hot-spot/wifi router, our cell phone signal booster, my wife's laptop for work and a 12v powered dometic cooler running and being powered simultaneously!

I see no need for extensions. I can see down the sides perfectly well, I canNOT see behind, at all, through the mirrors. In heavy traffic at slow speeds I turn on my Garmin backup camera to let me keep an eye on tailgaters and people pulling out to pass. I strongly recommend a backup camera, spend your money on that instead of mirror extensions. I just added rear airbags in order to allow me better control of leveling when fully loaded. I will report back after my next trip. I think they are going to be useful. The downside is that at minimum pressure (5psi) they raise the back up 3/4 inch and they do stiffen the empty ride slightly. Not necessarily a bad thing, considering how soft the factory springs are. Show me some pics of your 200,how do you like it? Here is my current setup: 5 psi in the airbags, lightly loaded (no water, nothing in the jerry cans, nothing in the back of the truck), Anderson hitch lowered to level the trailer. When I add heavy stuff in back of the 200, I can pump up the bags to carry the extra weight. It may only need 10 psi, I will experiment. Before adding the bags, the 200 was butt low and the trailer was too....it was a little dorky looking, like this: Now it is more betta! John Davies Spokane WA

Hi Jaque It sounds like your truck just might be sufficient to pull a 5000 pound Ollie down the road. We also believe in massive overkill in a tow vehicle. We tow Legacy Elite II with a Nissan NVP 3500 making our rig about 45 feet long. Since we picked up the trailer in March, 2016, we have accumulated over 8000 trailer miles. Suggestion #1: Get the backup camera and USE IT. When I tried backing into the driveway without using the camera I backed into the second story deck and cleaned the camera right off the trailer. Replacement camera was $300. I am also considering side cameras since the monitor will accept 2 wired cameras in addition to the wi-fi camera. Suggestion #2: Before driving on any gravel or narrow road, disconnect and check it out first. After boldly entering one such road, it took the towing company all afternoon to free first our trailer and then our tow car from a sand trap. Suggestion #3: Don't always trust your GPS. Ours led us in circles around a development with very narrow streets that we should not have ever gotten into, and down a gravel road with a sand trap at the end. Len R.

Yes, I went from an eighteen foot stick built to the Elite II. I've found that the main difference was not the length, but, the width. Since the Ollie is basically the same width as most 1/2 ton trucks you do not need tow mirrors AND when backing into a site, driveway, etc, it is much easier to see even if you do not have a backup camera (I still highly recommend that you get the camera). Absolutely no regrets! Re the Anderson - I have no problem with it and have found that it is actually easier to use than the Equalizer WDH that I had on previous trailers. All you have to do is learn how to use it (the Andersen) and it is a piece of cake. Bill