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Muppy, SeaDawg's suggestions are really good. To access the pump and the plumbing you do not need to remove the drawers, but lift the curbside access hatch beneath the bed. The pump and valves are right there. My experience with a plumbing leak, in this thread, may be useful to you. You would need to remove the drawers if you wanted access to the kitchen sink plumbing, and that is covered in this thread.

Trainman, I'm really sorry to hear of your issue. However, I can think of several reasons to follow up with Oliver and Suburban before ordering a non oem part out of pocket. The first, of course, is the $100, since a new board under warranty would be zero, and I'd rather spend the money on something else. ? Second, using a non oem board could void the rest of your warranty, which, I think with Suburban is 3 years. Not just the one year wrap you get from Oliver. A number of rv appliances have warranties well beyond one year, if maintained. The third... if warranty issues go unreported, to Oliver, and Suburban, they think everything is hunky dory. And, the cycle continues... There are really only two major manufacturers of standard tank six gallon water heaters, both based in the US. Suburban has been around forever, as you know, and they do stand behind their products, installed in rvs made by a great number of manufacturers. Unless something has changed (and I'm unsure, as we now have a Girard tankless), they offer the longer warranty of the two. Atwood, the other, sold out to Dometic, and I believe has a 2 year warranty. As far as being " cheap Chinese" as referenced in another thread on this topic, I'm pretty certain the Suburban is manufactured in Tennessee, USA, where the factory and warehouse employ three to four hundred people. Sure. Some of the components come from offshore. Just like American cars. But that's pretty much the way the world works today. Global economy. Over the last three years, I've seen half a dozen or so posts about suburban water heater issues. At least two were faulty connections, corrected immediately after pickup. Several others were boards. That's a little over 1 per cent failure rate, which I doubt Suburban likes, but it doesn't make them "junk." Honestly, if I were in your shoes, I'd take a step back, pick up the phone tomorrow, and start the warranty process. See how it goes. No one has reported a second failure with a factory replacement board, that I know of. If you do go the Dinosaur board route (which I would only do in an emergency, or after warranty expiration on the unit, but that's me), keep your old board if you ever need warranty service. Any authorized dealer will look at the non oem board, and blame any problem on the board... Just my thoughts, and my personal process with all warranty items, rv, home, or boats. Sherry

Thanks Sherry, I did contact Oliver Service and talked with Jason again and he is sending me a new board for me to install in our new Oliver. I feel it's only right for Oliver to correct the problem and they are doing just that, so sending a new board is the correct thing to do, thanks Jason at Oliver. The only thing I know about Suburban water heaters is that our Casita had one and to me it looks to be the exact same one as in the Oliver, it never gave a problem all the time we owned the Casita. I will plug in the new module and see what happens, for the time being I just hope it was a isolated incident. trainman

Muppy, I'm really sorry for your issues, but sounds like you have narrowed some possibilities. Here's what I would try. Since you have a big leak on both city or tank ( with pump), I'd start at the pump area. In our older trailer, we can see all the valves and pump clearly. Can you? Since you get leaking water from both sources, I'd first look at valves ( check valve, particularly), . Turn on just the pump. No faucet open. Give it a few minutes. Do you see anything near the pump? Take this slow. Put a paper towel under the connections at the pump. See if it gets spots . If not , try the sink faucet, only. See if you get any dripping. Wait awhile. Look again near the pump. Also, Open up the area under the sink by pulling out the drawers. If nothing there, after several mintes, shut off the kitchen faucet. and try the bath faucet. The good news is, pex lines rarely rupture, even if frozen, by the previous owner. The bad new is, you definitely have a bad leak somewhere. Probably at a valve or visible junction/ connector. Others may have a better idea. This is just mine. I like to follow the water, one step at a time.

We Dare You I write this to y’all as Dorian dumps a bucket of water on us and sends puffs our way… It’s not our first hurricane Rodeo. In fact, this year we’ve taken on the rally theme, “We Dare You”. Camp Hatteras is located in Dare County, NC. Named after Virginia Dare, the first English child born in a New World overseas. The Outer Banks folks are pros and everyone needs to take "recovery" lessons from them. Your concerns are recognized, however, I have the confidence in our camp to pull it off. Only if another hurricane is imminent on our rally weekend (like Matthew), Camp Hatteras will make it happen. I'm currently returning from the SD rally, Inyan, sitting in a McDonalds parking lot for the night (and thank you McD for free, super strong wi-fi) just 100 miles out of Wilmington, NC. The wind gives just a gentle rocking in the trailer, and I know where I'm going for a fast breakfast and coffee in the morning. So far, all roads are passable. The best part about all this pelting rain is the plethora of dead insects and birds stuck to my car and trailer from the long road trip, which are naturally getting pressure-washed away. Makes the destination wash down SO much easier! I know that our OBX camp will be ready for us as they have multiple years in the past. That's why we're the salty adventurers who Dare… So join us salty, sandy adventurers. “We Dare You!”

John, Take a breath! Nobody is trying to argue that an F-350 is better than a Wrangler off road. Alex was just asking about towing two trailers, one a Wrangler. Given the legal, structural and logistical problems with that, it seems it's better to use the F-350 to make runs to the store or for sightseeing when disconnected from the trailer, and leave the Wrangler at home. This is not about extreme four wheeling in Moab, it's about not having to take the trailer everywhere.

Hi Trainman, Have you spoken with the Service Department? They can help you with any issues you are having. You can reach them at: 1-866-205-2621

Thanks Jason, I did talk with Jason in the service dept. and he is sending me a new module for the water heater. trainman

My Suburban water heater has had no problems in almost 4 years. We are boondocking in Roosevelt NP in North Dakota now with plenty of hot water. I don’t think it’s fair to say that all the original boards are junk. Some, maybe? Not an Oliver issue.

Glad to see you got your awning in, I can see where that could happen. I was told to only crank out the awning to where the white was solid, there is a line there where the color changes. I purchased these poles on Amazon to stabilize the awning, tested them last week and they work great. They are tent poles by Green Elephant , they have a 1/4" pin at the top and a pad that slides over it, this is for padding on the tent, but I use it as a means to hold the awning to the poles. I did have to drill a hole in the awning cover on the bottom side about 4" from the ends. I also installed a rubber grommet to make a nice fit for the rod on the end of the poles. If you want pics just ask, I can do that. Here are the poles I used. https://www.amazon.com/Green-Elephant-Telescoping-Tarp-Poles/dp/B072K1B91Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2VBYYNKHC6CZ0&keywords=green+elephant+telescoping+tarp+poles+set+of+2&qid=1567705986&s=gateway&sprefix=green+elep%2Caps%2C175&sr=8 trainman

The Wonder Egg, hull #14's awning says HORIZON on the outside, the arms are marked FIAMMA, and the housing has a DOMETIC sticker. Go Figure! When my end caps became brittle from UV, I ordered new ones from gowesty.com. I ordered for the F45i. Here are the part numbers. Left end cap - part # 04275-01C Right end cap - part # 04274-01C Before putting the new end caps on, I painted them with a white Krylon plastic paint, which has UV protection properties. They have lasted much longer than the originals, at this point. (Although it looks like they will need some TLC when I get home)

We have Hull # 39 and it has the Dometic Horizon. The paper work has model # 97xxxxx.065. That is all I can find on it.

Mr Walmsley it may be a good idea to review all of the recent posts with different problems and report them to upper management also. Thanks

Hi Muppy, I am sorry to hear about your trouble. I am forwarding this issue onto upper management and to the service department right now.

I experienced the same thing this year in a new Elite II. This has happened to several new owners recently In the basement area there is a connector brass fitting that connects the city water to your internal plumbing. It is located under the floor of your basement on the water connection side. You can check this in two different ways. (1) You can take up the floor of the basement to see if it is wet. If so, look for a brass fitting that connects to your outside water receptacle, city water. Look to see if it has a crack in it. (2)If you cannot determine if it has a crack, turn the city water on low, as you watch it. If this connector is split, it is probably from over tightening at the factory. When the water comes out many of the weep holes in the trailer.

Hey Muppy, We always fill the fresh water tank & use the pump. City water can cause problems because of surging pressure. Good luck.

Was the water under your refrigerator area coming from the fresh water tank overflow or from the refrigerator drain? If coming from the refrigerator drain, was it coming out of the tube or from a gap between the tube and the hull?

Welcome to the Oliver family. Sorry to hear your first experience was not as expected. Overland and others have given you some good advice, a good thorough step by step problem solving process is in order. I would do as Overland suggested, test the supply system first - put some water in the tank and see if it holds pressure - if it does- then you know where to look next, use the city water connection, if it holds pressure, great, if it doesn't, find the problem and repair. It is possible your water system is not the issue, could be a drain system issue. A good flashlight and some compartment sleuthing are in order. When you overfill the h2o tank, water should flow out the overflow hose, no where else. I use the overflow as my indication the tank is full. I have no issue with using the city water connections, all SHOULD work fine, I have no need to run my pump when the city water connection is available. Good luck, let us know what you find RB

Muppy Sorry to hear of your problems. For the drain value being closed in the shower I’ve done it and i think it has happen to everyone at one time. You connected to city water got all the air out of the lines, then saw water dripping outside. One thing to check which is happening a lot, check the level of your fresh water tank. If it is full and you didn’t fill it your city water is bypassing the water pump filling your fresh tank overfilling and leaking outside or it is a leak in the system one of the connection may have failed or wasn’t installed properly read Hobos water related problems it may or may not help. Good luck i know your frustration.

Be sure to check the curb side as well, since that's where most of the plumbing connections are. One way to verify a leak is to add water to the fresh tank and turn on the water pump. If it runs continuously or starts and stops, then you know you have a leak, and also how bad, depending on how much the pump runs. Also, the hull drains (weeps) have screens and usually a layer of dust and debris over those, so if you get water in the hull it will often pool and then slowly drip out of the weeps.

O.K., so it does sound like a leak then. If you've checked all the access panels and can't see any obvious leaks, then I think the next step is to pull the kitchen drawers out. There are two plywood panels on the back side of the cabinet that can be removed to inspect the lines to the kitchen sink. I'd also suggest on the dinette seat closest to the bath, really stick your head in there and look around. There's a 'curb' in the outside hull under the front of the trailer, and if the bathroom plumbing is leaking, you might be able to see it dripping down that curb. I would suspect that it's something in the bath, since there's water dripping from the drain to the front of the door. I may be mistaken, but I don't think that water from any other part of the trailer can make its way over there, due to the inset in the hull for the steps.

John and Cheryl: Welcome to the best source of info on the planet for Oliver Trailers! A follow-up to the drain lines and water system. Some of us owners simply don't use the high pressure water system as a supply to our trailers. Pressure surges from the city water main or well pump can be an issue. Instead, we fill our Oliver fresh water tank and use the pump to provide water for our needs. When filling the fresh water tank, you want to monitor the tank fill level. Flow water at a reasonably fast rate until reaching a level such as 75% full. Then significantly slow down the water flow rate until you reach something such as 90% full. Then slow it down further until you see water coming from the tank overflow tube located at the refrigerator area (To the rear of the entry steps). When you see overflow there, shut off the water from the city/well. This process minimizes the potential for water system problems. It would be good to know the following: How fast is the water leaking out of the trailer weeps? Have you tried to disconnect from the city/well pump and see if the leak stops. If you fill the fresh water tank, does the leak return? Does it return just sitting there or does it return when using the pump? Geronimo John

Muppy, I would guess you do have a leak in a water line, time to remove panels and investigate, the good news is pex plumbing is pretty easy to repair, depending on where your leak is, that and with an Oliver at least there’s no wood to rot when leaks do eventually happen. The shower drain valve was doing what it’s supposed to do if it was closed and the water from the sink or shower wasn’t draining, it’s actually a back flow preventer to keep water from your gray tank from backing up into your shower when you’re underway. The refrigerator shouldn’t have anything to do with it. Good luck, Steve

Muppy, it's hard to say, because you've got a bunch of things going on at once. It does seem like there would be something simple to connect them all, but no idea offhand what that might be. So forgive what might seem some obvious questions - One clue is that you say there's water coming out of the overflow drain by the fridge. Are you certain that you have the water connected to the City Water port (which goes directly to your plumbing) and not the Fresh Water port (which fills the fresh tank)? When you say that you forgot to open the shower drain, does that mean that you've run water into the shower and the pan started to fill? If so, did it overflow over the curb where the toilet sits or into the cabin? That would be the easiest answer to all your troubles - since water can get under the toilet and from there could find multiple paths to the hull drains. If the shower drain isn't opened, the bath sink is also shut off, so I'm going to assume for now that's what the problem is there. Have you looked around in any of the access panels with a flashlight to look for a leak?