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We are staying at a great little RV resort in Gulf Shores Alabama called Bay Breeze. The staff Is friendly and it’s very neat, clean and well run. The local fresh seafood is excellent! Time to go explore Fort Morgan. We were originally headed to Fort Pickens and discovered it was closed due to flooding of the main road leading to the park. Naturally. We did well landing our Ollie here. Adventures Onward!

I recently posted on a thread about storage boxes that fit into the basket on the Ollie tongue. One photo showed a grey water waste tote that I sometimes carry on top of the storage tote. I got a PM from @stlipa asking what kind of tote I bought, and why I chose that one. I decided to post my answer here on the forum. I started researching totes and discovered that they come in various sizes, 6 gallon, 10 gallon, 11 gallon, 12 gallon, 15 gallon, 18 gallon. I just looked on Amazon and I even find 25 gallon and 38 gallon models. One gallon of water weighs 8.34 lbs, so you can do the math. The smallest ones have no wheels, some have two wheels, and the larger ones have four wheels. The larger models allow you to off-load more grey water at any one time, but the weight increases proportionally. The higher volume models are also proportionally larger in their dimensions, taking up more room in the tow vehicle. I did not want to carry the tote in my tow vehicle, an SUV, and I wanted to get a tote model that would conveniently fit into the storage basket. I made a list of all the models, with their volume, the weight when full of water, and the length, width and depth dimensions for each. I decided on the 12 gallon Thetford 40505 SmartTote, which I purchased a local RV supply store. Amazon has it for $79. I chose the 12 gallon Thetford 40505 SmartTote primarily because it would conveniently fit into the Ollie storage basket along with three of these five-gallon water jugs. BTW, the jugs have “Property of US Government” stamped into them. As you can see from these photos, the waste tote and the three water jugs all fit into the storage basket. When we are boondocking, we can go and get 15 gallons of fresh water, and we can offload up to 12 gallons of grey water. I leave the water jugs at home when we are going to a campground with water hookups, and put the yellow storage box and the tote on the tongue as shown in the earlier post. I had wanted to get the largest tote that could fit in the basket, but I soon learned that bigger is not always better. A better aphorism is that bigger is always heavier! My 12 gallon tote weighs 100 lbs when full. While I can walk it short distances when full on its two wheels, the weight becomes prohibitive if going a long distance. Imagine wheeling a 100 pound suitcase through an airport! My guess is that the larger totes with four wheels are easier to pull by hand. I do find that I can pull the tote fairly easily when it is 2/3 full (approx. 65 lbs), so I will often make two trips with 6-8 gallons each to dump the grey water, rather than one trip with 12 gallons. I bought one of the recommended accessories, a tow strap, that allows me attach the tote to the ball hitch on the tow vehicle. I have done that when the dump is more distant, with the tote filled to capacity, and it works fine. Just drive slowly. But if possible I prefer walking the tote over. At one campground the dump was too far for me to feel comfortable pulling the tote behind the car, and I was able to heft the partially filled tote (65 lbs?) into the tow vehicle. A larger tote would not be of greater benefit in this situation. A couple of other points for those considering getting a waste tote. The stuff I read online suggested getting hoses and connectors. (Some of the larger four wheeled totes have hoses that store in a built-in compartment.) I got a five foot sewer hose, and a sewer fitting. With these, it is easy to dump my grey water into a standard sewer fitting, moving the tote from horizontal to vertical and letting gravity do the rest. I later discovered that some campgrounds have a different type grey water disposal sites, and my sewer connection hose did not work well. These disposal sites look like they are designed for campers to pour in a dishpan of soapy water; these can be elevated off the ground, and thus difficult to lift a heavy tote. To circumvent this problem I bought a bayonet hook waste cap with a garden hose thread connector, and I got a short length of garden hose with the female end intact. Starting with the tote in a horizontal position, I open the air entry valve, hold the hose end above the sink for grey water, and then raise the tote into a vertical position. Water pressure forces the grey water though the hose into the waste water receptacle. When the tote is mostly empty, I can lift it off the ground and get the remaining water to drain out. I use this tote only for grey water. No black water in the tote for this camper! Finally, the pictures of the tote and the three five gallon water jugs in the Oliver basket were taken from other pictures, below. One is a picture of Ollie at Devil’s Tower, and the other is Ollie in front of a rainbow in South Dakota.

I like the Drivin’ and Vibin’ videos and Kyle makes some good points on why not to get solar. I disagree with his first point... we’ve found that camping in National Parks is usually a dry camping experience. Having electrical hookups is the exception rather than the rule, especially in the west. I agree that if you like campgrounds with hook ups then solar is not necessary. That’s what we thought we would do when we got our Oliver 5 years ago, I got the solar package “just in case”. As it turns out, we camp a lot in BLM and FS campgrounds, so I’m glad we opted for the solar. Mike

Here is one more option to consider. It works very well for us. Lifetime cooler from Walmart it serves multi purposes, takes up all the space in the basket just enough room on the back side to store two 2x6 wood blocks water tight, can be used for extra dry food or put food on ice which lasts about 4 days or just use as a anything storage. I also added a theft deterrent chain and lock on the back side. i also plan on getting another fuel pack for the other side of the basket. 4gals of fuel plus all the onboard propane I’m set for hurricane season.💨💦⚡️

I feel confident that after I park and spend the day away hiking or site seeing my roof top panels will still be there when I return. Unless I’m in deep shade they will provide some charging during the day. I wouldn’t want to leave portable panels out while we were gone. Portables would be a good supplement. As John points out, charging while on the road is a big deal too. Mike

Just wanted to say "Hello" and thank everyone for providing such great resources at our fingertips. I've already learned quite a bit by browsing through the threads. Hope to one day have my own Oliver Trailer.

We’ve been using TST for about 5 years. Works well. There are others out there that also work well.

John, I like the the Furrion port and wish it was rated for 20A, but when purchased all I could find was a 10A Furrion port. Last time I checked 1 1/2 years ago Oliver installed Zamp ports. I installed the Furrion port, still have the plug on my desk drilled out of Ollie, looking at it right now. Had to be sure where I was drilling! 🙂 I'm not an electrical expert either. 🙂 Zamp website shows connecting your controller directly connected to batteries. Zamp installation Page 4: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0344/2973/0953/files/ZS-10AW_15AW.pdf?v=1617051298

I have left the vent open - but it was in error - and your right it doesn't make much difference on the inside temp's. However, I have thought about a cool looking deflector - AKA - the roof mounted bike racks- mounted to the solar panels - Say a blue tinted plastic - with some graphics matching the Ollie. Not sure what good it would add - but hey - then I would have something - JD would have to catch up........😀😄 ( I am so far behind on his new improvements to Ollie)

Well, as has been said - how you set up your Ollie and the solar - should depend on how you use the RV - for me its the amount boondocking you do - or not. Honestly, with the increase in the numbers of folks that are now RV'ing and pretty much filling most campgrounds, not having the ability to stay off grid - comfortably - is a real issue. As much as I detest detailed trip planning - (where we will park) - I have attempted to secure sites for June/July across several of the western states - and -not to my surprise - a few places I would like to have found a fri/sat spot are packed full. Luckily, most of where we plan to head has lots of great - free - boondocking. With this in mind - I finally added a small gen set - just for the days the Sun is on strike. (and for running the AC when we are trekking across the plains in summer) Having a fully capable off grid RV really adds to the versatility of the experience. Now I will say - if commercial RV parks are your thing - you can find a spot in most places - well - it was tough during spring break in Florida. But having the ability to park in B.O.B. places- for weeks on end - are , well priceless. RB

Especially the zamp. Really nice, and very efficient, but pricey. If somebody stole my old $100 Coleman panels, I wouldn't be too stressed. I'd be very stressed if I had a more expensive system. You already have ordered almost 4x the useable battery power that we have in our 2008 shorty. That can sustain you a long time, with conservation. Guessing you've quadrupled or better the available power from the normal single Casita group 27, so there's that to consider, too. (That can put a serious damper on boondocking.) It's a balance, and personal (and budget) choice as well. We're committed to making our own power, from renewable resources, as much as possible. We're also committed to conserving power and water, wherever we are, at home, or camping or sailing. If, however, you usually camp with hookups, and boondock three or four days at a time, you probably don't need rooftop solar.

John Davies: Take a look at the port visors offered by Seaworthygoods.com. Used as rain deflectors mounted over vessel portholes. Come with 3-M tape ready for mounting. It may be that something may be adaptable for what you want. I have a port visor over the bathroom window and it has stayed in place for the last 2,000 miles. John Shkor SailorsAshore

Followed Overland’s suggestion and looked for Hardigg cases on Facebook Marketplace. I found dozens of good candidates for less than $60 within 50 mile radius. I’ve got some smaller ones, but plan on getting a bigger one for cargo tray. Search “aluminum storage tray dimensions” in this forum if you need to figure out what sizes will fit.

We've had test for over a decade. Works well. Customer service and turnaround time on replacement excellent. Long warranty. Only system we've owned, so can't compare.

I have the TST system and it works great. There are several that probably work well, but it is the one I ended up with.

even twice - i don't know what you said 😵

If you're looking for something bombproof, I've used Hardigg cases for years. I don't know what you'd have to do to destroy one, and you can spray them down with a power washer without them leaking. You can always find them on eBay in different sizes, sometimes very cheap. Appearance quality is hit and miss since most of them are military surplus. I've got a bunch of grey ones in the 1818-0603 size, which is about the largest that I'd want to lift over my head to put on a rack, but you could use a larger one on the front basket. I've thought about getting a huge one for the back of the Ollie to cary my wife's telescope. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=hardigg&_sacat=0

I would like to suggest an alternative to the 24 gallon ActionPacker, the 27 gallon Greenmade Tote. It is available at Costco for $8.50, much less than the ActionPacker 24. It is also available at other stores for $9-$14. It is lockable, although a determined thief could easily overcome the lock. I have driven through rainstorms with it, and in my hands it is waterproof. It fits perfectly in the Ollie storage basket. I carry my empty grey water waste tote on top of it.

If you pull this photo you can see it with a white truck....this is only the 4th one that I have ever seen....does it belong to anyone on here..

Seen one in mountain home Arkansas Last week. Besides mine 1st one I've seen. On the road.

I'd like to add to DavidS' comments - which are spot on - in that even if there are no "regular" dumpsites available, with the smaller tote you can always simply use a regular toilet. Of course this assumes that you can lift the tote and that is just another reason to go small.🙂 Bill

I close everything when we’re on the road. Especially in the west, dust can pop up quickly. If it’s hot outside it will be hot inside even with a vent or window cracked. If it’s cold outside, same deal. Mike

Thank you, Mike. I would definitely lock it away when we're gone. As you well know, those panels are not cheap! 🙂

That depends on where you are camping. In the arid west, it's perfectly ok in many places, as long as you're dumping only "clean" grey, away from the site. In many places in the east, this could garner a heavy fine. Best to ask and know, ahead if time. Also, scrape and wipe dishes before washing, so you're not emptying food particles, wherever. Better for your tank drainage, better for everyone.

Your photos are beautiful, as always. And I appreciate your thoughtful comments on your experiences.

Just checked they also have a video of a bear chomping one one LOL

Check you tube there’s a lot of videos and reviews on them.

Only ask, because we camp in bear country a lot. I wouldn't argue, either. 😄

Sea Dawg I remember seeing a bear sticker on it you my be right. Bear proof or not if he wants it I won’t argue. 😳

Have you thought about not running the fan, and just opening the bath window a bit, instead?

Johnwen, do you boondock much? Travel a lot? Camp normally with power? All these things contribute to the decision. Even if you have rooftop solar, you still need a separate controller for the suitcase solar, as the Oliver port (like those installed by virtually everyone) goes to a fused line to the batteries.

I think a portable unit is a great accessory, but ONLY if you have the rooftop array. As a stand alone charger it is really limited, because while you are towing, obviously there is no solar charging! So you might miss twelve hours of charging at up to 20 amps, until the time you arrive at camp, and THEN you have to hope you can find a clear spot for your portable unit, and the day is ending or the sun has gone behind a mountain. Your tow vehicle, as the trailer is delivered, will not do it. With a roof array, your system will always be operating, even when you fire up the inverter and microwave at a lunch stop, to keep the system as fully charged as possible. There is no shade on a highway to block them. Buy the roof panels, then if you feel they are a little lacking, buy a small portable panel, and put the controller inside the Ollie if you want to tweak that device’s performance. John Davies Spokane WA.

I don't understand! What is all the fuss. I use a heavy thick black grease - just goop it on, smear it around real well - and then use a torque wrench with Loong bar with a special tool end to tighten and take off. Works beery beery well. 😵 NO wait - that was a dream/nightmare - neverminded. Still recovering from that Russian pop music fiasco......

Sure do hope that "A" liner deal has some weep holes in it. I assume that you are talking about the bathroom vent. And, I assume that you are wanting to create a "cross breeze" of sorts by leaving both the bathroom vent and the Max Aire vent open at the same time? Certainly a fairing of sorts would not be too difficult to fabricate. But to make it look nice might be another story. Bill

When I ordered my Ollie I had always intended for the street side to be a couch - not a bed. When I saw that this bed extension had been installed I called Anita and said that I wanted it removed prior to delivery. Anita said that I should give that decision some thought in that with the extra seating cushions that I have ordered plus a few throw pillows this area could still be a nice couch, plus, by removing the back cushions and the throw pillows it would still be a nice bed. After some further thought and discussion I told Anita that I'd give it a try. Sure am glad that I listened to her - even though my wife is small, the extra room is welcomed by her and the occasional fishing buddy that tags along. In addition, the extra room makes lounging there a bit more comfortable too. Bill

I've got the EEZ TPMS and have had no issues in the last five years. Technomadia on their YouTube channel rate it highly too. No matter which TPMS system you purchase, strongly consider getting 6 sensors - 4 for the Ollie, 1 for the Ollie spare tire and 1 for the tow vehicle spare tire. Of course this assumes that the TV already has TPMS from the factory - if not then get 10 sensors. Bill

I believe it’s 25” vs 30” for the twin.

Lol. Pat, I did (do) have an swr meter to tune the antenna, but I think the problem was not having a proper ground plane. Just the wrong antenna for the situation I suspect. I would like to revisit it just because I’m a nerd, but I think I’d rather get a ham license and go that route rather than CB. Someday maybe.

Glad you mentioned distance - the shipping cost for those cases can be pretty high just due to their size.

Me, too

It’s on my radar as well. It’ll be interesting to see what they come up with..

WVHills, welcome! Hope you’re in an Ollie soon. We’ve camped in the WV hills and need to go back for more wonderful scenery and friendly folks. Mike

And a "Hi" back to you and glad that you are with us. Let us know if there is anything that we can do to make your "one day" actually happen. Bill

Attached is the 2022 Brochure....below are the color choices for 2022. Oliver Travel Trailr 2022 Brochure.pdf

I need to rebuild one axle before I head up to Alaska in the Fall, I already did the other one due to a seal leak (and I swapped the brakes for the much more reliable manual adjust type). I would love to install disk brakes but that is not going to happen for a while. I blew my Ollie Ca$h Re$erve already over the winter, big time. 😥 I need to order a pair of manual adjust brake assemblies and 2 hub assemblies. I found these. And these: They ship FREE and the cost is a whole $100 less than the same exact OEM parts from eTrailer.com. Any other suggestions, or is this a winner? FYI I will install really good Timken bearings, races and seals, and use really good grease. Thank you. John Davies Spokane WA

I think Oliver uses a good quality decal material on their trailers. I personally wanted to not go with the Oliver logo and have my own design to set our trailer apart from others. I like walking thru the camping grounds at rallies and find it easy to spot Oliver owners by their logo's and find it a opportunity to know who I will be meeting. Our logo pretty much says, Ft. Worth, Texas and that is our home state, are the Lone Star Travelers". trainman

So many things I use are online or on my phone/tablet...so I'll break this down into 3 parts: 1) My favorite "online - web based" roadtrip/camping planning tool: RV Trip Wizard is an Online tool I used for planning my trip to/from Hohenwald...it's great. - https://www.rvtripwizard.com/ 2) Apps my Phone/Tablet Tools for Finding and Reserving Campsites: Allstays Camp & RV - also a good lookup tool for campgrounds - https://www.allstays.com/ Campendium - For reviews of campgrounds - https://www.campendium.com/ The Ultimate US Campground App - For locating boondocking sites.= http://www.ultimatecampgrounds.com/ All Trails - for finding localized hiking info - https://www.alltrails.com/ Recreation.Gov - for doing many of the reservations in Nat'l forests, and parks - https://www.recreation.gov/ Harvest Hosts App - for one night stays at wineries, farms, etc. - https://harvesthosts.com/ RV LIfe - All round app I use as a portal into reviews and new campground info. - http://rvlife.com/ 3) Seeing the actual campground sites: I've found so far that I use several apps when planning a long trip. Some are great for finding "camping" others are good for planning the drive. In addition, there are resources we use that help us plan by showing actual campsites as photo's or drive through's including these three sites: Campsite Photo's - https://www.campsitephotos.com/ Campground Views : https://www.campgroundviews.com/ - featuring drive throughs of a campground in 360 deg format so you can look around. The Dyrt - a great site for what's good about a specific campground: https://thedyrt.com/ Hope that helps... Craig & Rose Hull 505 - Galway Girl

As our Oliver has the same type of marine gelcoat as our boats, we've stayed with the marine paste wax we use on the boats, 3M Marine Ultra. It's not inexpensive, but one can lasts for several applications, and it's formulated for fiberglass and the harsh marine environment . It's worked well on the sailboat ( now over 40 years old) , the powerboat and the Oliver. The wax lasts, even in the Florida sun. It's been one of the top two paste wax products in Practical Sailor's testing over the decades. Sherry

I think that the most recommended polish here is Duragloss, which I can personally attest to, but also many owners have had good success with other products like 3M marine wax, Maguires, etc. Some people really like Rejex, but I personally didn't care for it. Some searching will probably provide you with a handful of threads on the topic. Many of us use a mixture of 4 parts Duragloss 923 and 1 part Duragloss 952 in a spray bottle for cleaning the interior and as a touch up spray on the exterior, cleaning off bugs and such. I don't know who first came up with that mixture, but it really makes the interior shine. On the exterior, I think waxing twice a year is the typical recommendation, adjusting for use, climate and storage conditions. I don't know if I remember a discussion here on which type of pads to use.