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In NC looked liked the fuel shortage was easing so planned a trip to Wilkesboro NC. Debbie and I had the privilege of spending time with David and Kathy (Patriot) for a few days at Bandit's Roost ACE campground. We had a fine time exploring the area for a few days with perfect camping weather! Patriot's Beautiful Ollie: Our Ollie: One of the places visited was Raffaldini Vineyards NC:

Sorry for your issue,, orca We've camped in odd places , around the world, without a builtin toilet. Usa, Australia, Iceland, etc. Luggage loo, thunder down under. Basically a five gallon bucket with a seat and a snap on lid to seal it. It's not necessarily pretty, but it works. Another alternative. If anyone else has a failure. ( I've not heard of this type of failure, til today, which makes me think it's pretty rare .) You can also use a trash bag in the toilet, with gel powder, and dispose of the bags .Or, drive to the nearest camping world, and get it fixed Or, a portapotty. Or, go to home depot or lowes, buy a flange, and modify it based on the old one. Might have to buy a cheap file . The last would likely be my first option. Everyone makes their best decisions, based on personal options and skills. Having my trailer trucked across the country, by some stranger, would truly be my last choice.

I’ve been looking for some time to have a security camera above the entry door. Most wireless cameras are not wireless they still need a power wire. I also didn’t want to drill holes and fish wiring though the hull. Roaming around Walmart I spotted this back up camera by Whistler. The camera is totally wireless and once fully charged via USB it has built in solar to keep the battery maintained. The monitor is 4in and plugs into a 12v outlet. With a suction cup mount. Looking at the picture on the box it looked like it would be a perfect fit above the entry door. The purchase price was $100,00 I rolled the dice if it didn’t fit perfectly it was going back. I did a Amazon check it appears this model is only sold at Walmart. The reviews on the whistler models were mixed good and bad. Once the camera was charged I turned on the monitor within seconds the picture appeared. Very nice color image it has inferred for night time haven’t try it yet. Very few features it is not a continuous on you can choose 20 sec to 120 sec on then auto off plenty of time to see who is outside your door. Also no audio or recording capability. Simple setup no frills. Mounting the camera I used Scotch outdoor heavy duty Velcro very secure. Very happy on the looks of the camera attached to the hull above the door it looks like a factory installed option. The Big question?? Will it last, does anything these days? It’s the $100.00 question. We shall see I'll give a review in 6 month’s the warranty is good for one year. attached are the photos of the install.

Wondering if anyone has ever asked Oliver about the possibility of adding a window over the kitchen counter? Seems like it would fit. I'm thinking it would make for a nice pass through when one of us is grilling and the other is inside using the cooktop, and also it might help vent the cooktop area. You could even put a small fan in the window maybe to help send the cooking odors outside.

The original trailers, like ours, came with a plastic toilet, Thetford aquamagic . Which version, i don't recall. Still working. Still in place. Season 14 . Lighter, too. Maybe look there?

I had the same problem several months ago. I just noticed that the toilet seemed unusually wobbly, First thought the bolts loosened from the flange, not the case the plastic flange where the toilet bolts onto was broken. Service sent me a new flange and explained that the flange is not glued in but you will have a little fight up and down to get it to come loose. It was a good fight and almost kicked my ass. It finally came out and the new flange went in fairly easy. It appears its the fault of the toilet. Only the bowl is porcelain and the shroud around it is thin plastic. So you have this heavy porcelain toilet attached to a 4in plastic flange the shroud around it doesn’t help to stabilize the toilet it is there just for looks. I can see that any type of movement vibration of the toilet or slightly over tight flange bolts would easily cause the plastic flange to break. I will but not as yet looked at finding a better toilet that will sit more firmly to the base. Any ideas out there?

I made sure I read your post correctly. Twice. Well you had a fourth choice : Stay at campgrounds with toilet facilities, use facilities along the way - tow the Ollie - stay in motel/hotel - I'm sure many do this - we did for 40 plus years. I am empathetic to the cause and feel for you and the inconvenience, but really. Yeah I get it - Stick it to the manufacturer - tell the world. That is what it says to me. Well the axle didn't come loose - or worse - a tire fell off - now that was a trip killer. I will leave it there - I'm not sure how people make it across the country without a personal RV toilet - but somehow it happens. As for me - your complaint is noted - somewhat deafly. Why - because I see it too often - as I have actually attempted to help people in these kind of cases - but I have learned my lesson. I'm sure the wrath will come down. Worse has happened. I should just let it go - but that is a trip killer. I wish you well. RB

I am not a fan of vast vertical glass displays, maybe I could get used to it, I think this is beyond ugly…. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/money/cars/article-9598583/Ford-unveils-40-000-F-150-Lightning-electric-pick-truck.html John Davies Spokane WA

Hi there Oliver Family, I'm Claudia and I'm the new proud owner of hull #184! I had the pleasure of meeting Char and inheriting their beautiful rig! It was a bittersweet meeting in light of her recent loss but I made sure to let her know that their trailer couldn't have gone to a more impassioned owner. I owned my Casita (OCD - obsessive casita disorder) for nearly ten years and I'm busy transferring, organizing and decorating my new home, who's now been christened 'ILOVHER' I'm struggling a bit with storage (believe it or not) as OCD had a rear cargo box. Drawers are going to take getting used to as well since there is no storage under the dinette seats! Where do y'all put pots and pans and the daggit cleaning supplies??? I'm enjoying the process but I do have a lot to learn, esp. the Andersen WDH, but I'm determined to figure it all out so I can get out and CAMP! I realize the 'search' function is my friend and I'm very adept at that since my membership at casitaforum.com and casitaclub.com started in 2012. I learned all I know from those amazing folks! OK, now.. I've dewinterized the trailer and started the process of making sure the basic appliances and water are working but I DO have a couple initial questions that I can't find. I had some issues with little to zero water in the bath and or toilet using the city water connection. I studied the 'normal use' valve diagram and still couldn't get water to flow. After removing the toilet tank supply line, I was able to clear a ton of sand and debris from the intake valve with a mirror lying on my stomach over the toilet (lets just say ~uncomfortable) using a pair of blunt tweezers! I didn't want to take the valve off to create a leak. The valve screen was completely blocked with dirt! After that, I was able to get water to the toilet. The other issue I had was the bathroom faucet needed to be taken apart and cleaned along with the pump pre-filter. I am going to use vinegar in the lines overnight to make sure there isn't any other crud 'hanging' around... So here are my questions: 1. I haven't quite figured out how to use the pump to draw water (or vinegar mix) into the fresh water tank but I've watched the video. Do you really have to move all of your bedding to access the valves to do this?? I find that somewhat inconvenient since we have big custom mattresses. My simple siphon method used on my Casita was easy-peasy! Am I missing something obvious?? Do I really have to go in and out of the trailer to accomplish boondock water refilling? Is there a simpler method? 2. I have the city water connection hooked up streetside to the correct input and works fine at the faucets BUT... IT IS SLOWLY FILLING THE FRESH WATER TANK TO CAPACITY THEN LEAKING OUT THE OVERFLOW under the trailer. What would cause this?? Is there a check valve not working properly? How do I go about repair? PEX fitting/crimping or valve replacement is out of my realm of comfort. 3. After flushing and scrubbing out the crud in the water heater and replacing the anode, I turned the bypass valve and filled it up. It is working fine on electric but I haven't tried gas yet. I am noticing an intermittent chirp/start from the pump every minute or when disconnected from city water. Do you think I have a check valve issue in the water pump from the pressure of the dirt in the toilet valve and bathroom faucet? I've had this on my Casita before and I just can't remember how I solved it. Thank you for your help in advance. Nice to meet ya'll and I'll try not to be too much of a pest! Claudia and Rex Maximus

Hi Bobfirst, I just went through this a couple of weeks ago. Please see the attached link. Randy Champion https://www.amazon.com/222090-Sea-Dog-Line-Marine-Chromed/dp/B01MR71N5K

I want to put a picture of my dad and husband in their military uniforms

I think it looks nice, but personally I'm a fan of tactile controls, especially the big beefy ones in the current F150. I've said before that I think it's a bit silly that electric trucks keep the same form factor as regular trucks. But I guess for Ford it makes a little sense that they have an entire line that they want to look at least similar. Plus I was thinking that for towing, you could possibly use the big frunk to distribute your load maybe enough to not need a WD hitch. The range is no worse than the Cybertruck, which I think is probably the absolute minimum that allows them to show it towing an airstream. I'd guess 150 miles towing? This is still a big problem. But we've been surprised by the useful range of my wife's hybrid BMW X3. The electric range for that is only about 25 miles, but that's enough to get her to work and back, stores, pretty much anything we do around town. It's enough range that she get's pissed off when the engine starts. So, with a 300 mile range, I think this would be a really useful truck to have in town and for short trips. I know we have a few owners who are signed up for the Cybertruck so I'm very eager to hear their reviews.

I'm reviving this older thread as one of things that was on my wish/mod list for my Casita was a kitchen window! I know a few Casita'ns who've tackled this mod with sliding windows purchased from Scamp or Hehr direct. In a recent post someone used a boat hull port window! It's certainly above my skill and pay grade but I love my home kitchen window and would welcome a campsite view from my sink. I also like the idea of passing something outside to cook with. Anyone since this thread was created tackle this or is willing to? Suggestions welcome!

I queried Craig on the Oliver Facebook page and thought I'd recap his answers here for continuity.. Ralph>> I know you worked closely with Oliver, but wasn’t sure what they provided. Did you source all your major parts via Oliver or just the Lithionics? "Craig Short Author It was a team effort as I originally planned to have it done at the factory in the fall, but my Agm’s died in February. All the wiring, cables, buss bars etc. were locally sourced from Marine Suppliers. Lithionics was able to supply the GTX315 batteries, Xantrex XC2000 inverter/charger & Bluetooth controller, and the Victron Orion 12/12-30a chargers. (They resell those brands.) Oliver provided guidance on how to disable the 7pin, how to disable the Progressive on board converter and how to hook up the new inverter to existing circuits. They also suggested where & how to safely drill holes for new 6awg DC/Dc charger wires and how to use the Through Hull CableClam for waterproof Hull penetration. Ford Body Builder Service told me where to hook up my 6 AWG wires and how to put in a new chassis ground lug. https://fordbbas.com/home"

Thank you Overland! Sounds like a good idea to just replace it since I can't seem to make the chirping stop. I thank you for your reply, John. I guess I meant there are no 'cupboards' below the seats by the dinette. I am used to having easy access there without having to remove cushions or disturb plumbing/electrical. The other back one under the bed also requires moving a mattress...not especially convenient...except for things not used often and padded up with soft fabric boxes... My pots and pans hopefully will stay in the drawers without popping open around curves. Its a new trailer and new methods of organization will follow I'm sure. For such a young trailer, there was quite a lot of sediment inside the WH tank. I have a valved flush wand and a brush that I've used for years on my Casita's water heater. It's spic and span now! My driveway is asphalt and old as dirt so no etching here!

Bobfirst - That thing's pretty beefy - any idea of how it broke? Bill

Actually, I can only find it in their catalog using the part number, 222090 - 'door hook' brings up some other styles but not that one. I shouldn't be surprised, I've had that problem with some other parts on their website, too.

Jason helped me out with the link.....I was at a loss.

I notice they kept the spare in the rear and I guess the batteries are under the floor? Having decent weight distribution is probably a first for a pickup. I think it's a safe bet that this truck handles a ton better than the regular F150.

I am so excited to get my Oliver. I plan on putting a wrap dedicated to veterans similar to this.

I’ve wondered the same. Seems like something quite a few folks would like. Mike

Troubleshooting over the digital domain is very Iffy. I like risk so I will have a shot. To number 1 - Yes - I don't find it all that big a deal - but I understand. 2/3. I would guess there may be a leak or broken something - causing the slow fill - as it leaks into the bottom of the trailer. Thus the intermittent on/off of the pump - loosing pressure. Is it the check valve - hard to tell from here. Were it me - I would remove all the hatches - open everything, have a flashlight handy - maybe an extra set of eyes. Make sure the valves are set for normal operation - hook up to public water - turn on hose and observe - run all faucets, toilet etc - observe. And go from there. If one or more faucets don't flow correctly - attack each individually. With the foreign matter in the lines it will be a chore to get it all out. Try to be systematic. Water will go where the hole is - The valves are hard to see - but do your best. Next - if all seems ok -move to the pump system. However - a leak will show under both systems. Next - make sure you have water in the tank - disconnect the city water - run the pump- observe see what is happening. Make sure you have cleaned out the filter just ahead of the pump. It will have something in it - it just will. If the pump continues to chirp/cycle - you most likely have a leak - but could have an issue with the pressure switch- or air in the lines. A few raps on the pump helped solve mine - never faltered again. If there is trash in the system - run it a bunch to flush - Also reset valves for boondocking fill - and follow directions - why - just make sure all works as designed - and nothing has come loos or broken. Then return to normal configuration. While you are at it - Under any water source - make sure the outside shower is off - turn it on, cycle both valves. If it was leaking or slightly open. close securely - and go back to pressurizing the system and observe. hope I wasn't too remedial - good luck. For my money - there is a leak somewhere - the pump cycle on off is the tell. Guaranteed or your money back.😀 RB

The AGM’s were Trojan brand, but the ones in a black plastic case made in China. They are cheaper OEM versions with a one year warranty. The Trojan support line told me they are inferior to the US made Trojans in the maroon cases. There wasn’t a specific event that caused them to fail, other than one having a short and taking out the other 3. For the upgrade I estimate the total cost including all the parts, cabling and main gear a bit over $10,000.00

Welcome Stevon & Mary. We are Wendy and John and we won't be picking ours up until mid Jan next year. We're full timing in our Casita ( a little over a year now) and appreciate the places we can go that the big rigs can't. Getting rid of our "stuff" has been a difficult chore but we are thankful for the liberation! Every day is an adventure and our only regret is that we didn't start many years sooner. We wish you the best and hope to "see you out there someday" 🙂 John

This is certainly a bad turn of events! I’m not sure what exactly happened. Is this the normal toilet or the composting toilet? Does “using” mean sitting on or flushing? Did Oliver give you any idea why this would happen? Any answers you can provide might help the rest of us avoid this situation. Thanks for posting this! Mike

Here's another thread on shower mods You'll probably find the memory foam would not help. I'd probably check out some higher density replacement foam squares, if the seats are too soft. We ordered our 2008 with high density foam. (We had a choice then.) It's great for seating, but a bit firm for sleeping. I use a memory foam topper on top of the cushions. On the boat, I had new cushions made some years back with 3 or 4 inches if high density foam, and an inch of memory foam glued to the top. A good compromise for seating, and decent comfort for sleeping.

At least a few people have replaced the shower head. NCEagle's lovely upgrade: And, Overland's beautiful total bathroom remodel I seem to remember a few more. I'll edit and add if I find them.

An update for the forum on my project to upgrade to 2 new Lithionics GTX315 Batteries for Hull 505 - Galway Girl. Some slide ware below is self explanatory...but if you have questions, please ask. We'll be doing a month long road test in June. Craig Short Hull 505 ________________________________ What are we adding? ________________________________ Project plan: _________________________________________________ New System Level Block Diagram: ___________________________________________________ What we are removing from Hull 505: _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ How to disable the existing onboard Progressive 4060 converter / charger: _______________________________________ New Components Installed: _________________________________________________________________________________ The finished installation: ______________________________________________________________________ Battery Bay with (2) Lithionics GTX 315's Installed: _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ Victron DC/DC Charger Modification - new wiring run and hull penetration: In this case we used a Blue Sea CableClam for the hull penetration to maintain a sealed exterior. 1242127529_Hull505Upgrade.pdf

We are starting to look at next year. Hopefully there will be a Ollie rally in Guntersville in May and from there we head to Alaska. Looking for any info from those who have already made the trip. We want to concentrate on Alaska and the Yukon for this trip. We plan to be out of Alaska mid September.

Ollie in the Wild! Bandits Roost CG in our beautiful home state of North Carolina. Nice large sites and clean facilities. Highly recommend this CG.

We are located just north of Seattle and planning a similar Alaska trip starting out in Mid June and Return Mid Sept. Hull 505 - Galway Girl Craig & Rose

I brought this idea up way back when we bought ours, and Robert shot it down. I still think it's a good idea. Might be worthwhile to revisit the idea again with the folks at Oliver. Stan