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Take a moment to remember those that gave the ultimate sacrifice for the freedoms we still enjoy and hopefully will enjoy forever. I lowered our flag this morning as I do every year in remembrance of my brothers and sisters in Arms.

Since I'm dealing with a number of messy issues with my new to me LE2, I wanted to shift my attention and share with y'all a couple recent mods that I'm proud of. Some were the genius of others on this forum that I copied and some are my own.

Since the year 2000 it has been recommended that at 3pm (local time) every American pause for at least one minute to remember. Certainly even with all of the "other" things that we have to do we can all find that one minute out of our busy day to remember.

Hello to the Oliver world, my wife and I have been a fan of the trailers and the craftsmanship for a few years. We're pleased to be able to become the new owners of Hull #36, bringing it back to TN after a long stay in MN where is was taken care of wonderfully be Kent and Mary, and Terry and Catherine before them as I understand it. Very gracious and interesting folks who have treated us so well during our transfer. We live in East TN, a few hours drive from Hohenwald. We have lots to learn and are excited to start this new chapter. We've been T@B owners for many years, and love our T@B and it's community. But as our life changes, we believe this is a great next next step. Lee and Linda

UPDATE- Ok - I fixed my POS Dometic AC fan noise. The squirrel fan that feeds the interior had come loose on its shaft - allowing it to slide back and forth to scrape against the housing shroud - The tick tic is the fan. An allen set screw had loosened up just enough to allow the fan to slide. You need to remove the top side cover 4 Philips screws - then the insulated cover, it slides up, - then the plastic cover, 6 hex head screws. There are also some plastic tabs that need to be unclipped. The fan shaft will slide back and forth some - but the fan should be tight to the shaft - it should sit flush with the end of the shaft. You do not need to remove the interior cover. All ok now - jet engine dB's aside. RB

I imagine the VHB tape is used just to hold the lense in place while the sealant is applied. I'll probably do the same and use this to do the caulking:

After recently upgrading to new 30 gallon LP tanks I decided to add a thin piece of rubber door mat to the shelf that the bottom tank rings sit on. I simply patterned it and cut it to fit the shelf. $4 for the mat at Wally World and 15-20 minutes to install. This should help prevent metal on metal corrosion from forming between the bottom of the LP tank ring and the metal shelf. I lightly sanded and cleaned the shelf, taped it off, and shot it with a rattle can coat of flat black rust preventive paint. Happy Camping!

The last few years, we've adopted loctite marine fast cure. Good adhesion, good elasticity, for both the boat and the trailer. So far, so good. And, it gets good ratings on Practical Sailor testing, which is why I first considered it. Polyether, not polyurethane, and compatible with fiberglass, polycarbonate, and most plastics. If the lens is acrylic, which I really suspect it is, you would want to avoid polyurethane.

Our black tank valve was not sealing completely when closed allowing liquid to find it's way into the capped dump hose while camping. Made sure the cable was shifting the valve completely. Ended up replacing the black tank valve & seals fixing the problem.

Jacking up the front without unhitching is the solution. If the trailer is level or slightly nose down when dumping, greywater will backup toward the black valve, partially filling the section between the two valves. While the hose may empty, when it's capped and you pull away, any water left laying in the drain line will find its way back into the hose.

What a PITA wet bedding during a boondock trip can be! This past week, I also encountered what appears to be the same problem as yours. With the help of my daughter (Allison), we were able quickly fix our two leakers without spending a dime. The first one took us an hour to figure it out. The fix took ten seconds. The second window had the same issue, and also took another ten seconds to also fix. Not saying it may be the same as your problem, but it is darn sure worth a 30 second look see! In the below picture you will note the +/- 2 ½” gap in the operable window bottom track & water diverter (TWD). The TWD is a black track that extends under both the operable and fixed windows. It is about ½” wide, and has holes drilled through the material for water passage and seals against the sides of the aluminum window frame. This seal conveys water that has gotten past the flanks of the operable window, and ports the water down to the window weeps. An important function of this black thing is to distribute water flowing from the operable window side of the track to the weeps of that the sealed window weeps. As the picture shows, this section of the TWD has slid forward, allowing all the water to flow to only the weeps of the operable widow. Use a pair of needle nose plyers, or a similar sized tool, and push the TWD back to the rear to meet the section from the back window edge. Then close the window and spray water onto the side of the trailer and observe if your flooding issue has been corrected.

That new engine has a towing capacity of 3500 pounds. It would not even tow the Elite.

It took me about 8 hours to remove the previous sealant and sign. Guess I was lucky being able to remove the sign without damage to the sign and re-use it. Used several layers of micro fiber cloth under the modified wood paint stir stick tool to help lift the sign preventing surrounding fiberglass damage. Did not see any signs of epoxy under the sign on our 2015 LE2, but the sealant used to install the sign was very tough to remove.

You have been very, very busy! Nicely done! I especially like the shower head holder for the outside shower. Very useful.

I think you could do it, especially if you’d be ok using propane outside the trailer, which would take care of cooking. You’d want to replace the fridge with a 12 volt compressor. Electric heat and hot water would be taxing, but many people carry a small electric heater and have found that they work quite well, and I would think that with a larger lithium bank and sparing use, you’d do ok. Assuming that you go with the 630ah lithium package, you’d need a lot of solar to reliably recharge that from solar alone. 1260 watts, to be precise. Even then, I think you’d want generator backup since you’ll be so dependent on electrical. So, yes it would be cool if you can get extra solar on your van, but in practical terms I think you should assume that you’ll be dependent on a generator or hookups for recharging - and with that in mind, you may decide that adding the extra solar isn’t worth the trouble. I don’t know Anything about the GMC van, only that typically vans don’t tow particularly well. If you decide to go another route then you might consider the new hybrid F150, which would really give you some good options for recharging quickly.

I attended the Non Rally last week and thought I would list, (not in any order) what I saw/learned from all the Oliver Guys/Gals I met. I made my list, starting on day one of things I thought would be of value to me, maybe others also. I don't have pictures of each of these, but maybe the "Guilty Parties" could follow up. On a personal note, I did experienced a Flat Tire on my TV, which needed a new tire. Also had an Andersen Hitch Link failure, which I'll cover separately. The Gas Shortage wasn't a big deal, but I did see several Stations that limited purchases. My list: 1. Reflective Red/Silver Tape on the lower parts of their Oliver, like you would see on a Semi Trailer, to improve visibility at night. Great Idea! 2. Motion Detector Lights mounted on all 4 sides of the trailer, I liked this idea to improve security. 3.Andersen Hitch Pin Handle, available from Tractor Supply, 8000 lbs capacity. This replaces the "Bat Wing Pin" and greatly assists in pulling the Pin in/out. 4. Mount a Level on the Front Basket or front of the trailer, that is visible in the TV's Back up Camera to assist in leveling (side-side). This tell you when you are level, without having to get out of the TV and checking several times. 5. Umbrella Storage PVC Tube mounted inside the door. 6. Entry Door Clear Window Kit, I go to add this. 7. Bed Mattresses, KTT or Southern or just Cushions, I am still on the fence! 8. Screen Door Towel Bar, of course. 9. Andersen Hitch Chains, Link or Dog Bone connectors? 10. Trailer Jack to change a Flat Tire. 11. Reverse the Window Shades to improve privacy! I've already done this! 12. Extra Back-Up Lights mounted on Back Bumper of the trailer. I likes this idea and plan on adding these. 13. Business Cards, great to exchange when you meet people. 14. LPG, Fire Pit. both Outland and Heiinger offer them. No wet wood to try to get to burn! 15. Apple/Sirius Radio added to the Oliver, must have. 16. Apparently the 2021 Olivers have added an extra 3 way Switch, in the lower Panty Cabinet to turn on/off the Courtesy lights, nice addition. Overall, the Non Rally was a big success, I understand there were 28 Olivers in attendance, very nice time. I look forward to next year's Rally!

Ours did that occasionally. To remedy, while hooked up to city water and getting overflow from the fresh tank, I turned on the water pump for 15 or 20 seconds. Turn it off and the problem is resolved. There’s probably an explanation that involves physics and fluid mechanics but as long as it works I’m happy.

We started getting organized today for the Maine not rally. We de-winterized today. The Ollie seems to be in good shape. Just needs a wipe down and we should be ready to go. I will start the fridge the day before. We are only an hour from the campground. We will load up next Monday morning and head to the campground. We are looking forward to seeing some Ollie folks we know and meeting some new folks too. Hopefully we get great weather and the black flys and mosquitoes stay away. Ticks too!! See ya next Monday.

I agree. $4 mat is great. Let us know how it works out.

Thank you , very helpful except mine are tight and together. I've cleaned that entire track!

Thats nice. We just wirebrushed an repainted our propane shelf this year. Looks like you have plenty of ventilation. I might add a few drain holes, if I did this, for condensation.

Absolutely. Buy a quality stinky slinky.

I think the cause of the slow drain from the fresh water tank is the same problem with slow water flow with the inlet line and the screen on the electric pump. Pieces of plastic that are left in the fresh water tank from drilling into the tank are getting stuck in the lines. Not enough to clog the lines just enough to slow the water flow. This plastic gets wedged in the lines I only had to clear the stainless steel inlet line to the water pump. Using coat hanger it was only about 8” long. If this is the case for the fresh water drain line I would say it may be easier to replace the drain line then trying to snake a wire through it. Compressed air may not work it will only clog the lines more. I’m sure others had the same problem. Just add it to the list.

Hull 806....I had a similar issue after I dumped the first time. The black tank drained to zero but even though the flow stopped the grey tank did not drain completely. I discovered this later and I also had water in the sewer hose. I thought that I had the Ollie level at the dump station but the next time I dumped I jacked it up a couple of inches past level....the grey tank drained completely and no water collected in the hose afterward.

In my limited opinion, that is not near enough engine, transmission, or final drive for pulling an Oliver. There is a huge difference between a Diesel engine built for fuel economy, and one built for heavy towing and rugged use. Buyers many times believe that simply because it is a diesel, that it is capable of heavy loads. There are light duty Diesel engines designed and built for economy....and this is one of them. Also, consider what is between the end of the crankshaft and the tires on the ground. Drivetrain and suspension are just as critical. Steve R.

You've done it the proper way. Believe me, I tried everything else before resorting to this method. My biggest problem with the project was we were on the road and in a forest service campground in Idaho. It took me all of one day. As Sherry said do not use 3M-5200. I used 3M-4200 mainly because that was what the factory was using at the time. I did not use butyl tape in my repair, only the 4200. I personally believe that the factory's use of the butyl tape to hold the lens in place while caulking led to the many failures I've heard about through the years. As you've discovered, the tape is not continuous and does not provide a leak-proof seal. One tiny pinhole in the caulk where it joins the tape and you've got a leak! If you decide to caulk the marker lights, do it from the inside. You can't see them and you would not have to be careful with the looks of the caulk.

For those of you reading this thread.. I've been documenting my progress here:

A new lens cost us something like $30. It was a pain to remove, with the spots of epoxy. Ours already had hairline surface cracks, so we ordered a new one before we began (Remember, our trailer is now 14 years old.) Like you, we're not newbies. We could have cut a new lens ourselves, but thought it easier to order. I don't love the "new" typeface, but, its ok . The lens was a perfect fit in our 2008

It's all good. I just don't want people to use 5200 indiscriminately. It's a bear to remove, from personal experience. My evening tonight. Get out, and camp. And, enjoy your new trailer.

This is Chris, I will make Erika take it off in five years. I'll be too old then. She's 10 years younger. LOL I blame my boss, he's the sailor who recommended it. He's such a jokester. Darn him.

@Erika E, not criticizing your decision, its just not one id l would recommend. You'll likely get 3 to five years. Maybe more.. Depending on how you travel/hull flex. I just think 5200 is not the best choice, and lots of people look at these posts for years to come . My reasoning is the lack of elasticity in 5200. And its incredible bonding, which we've personally experienced, even when the stuff cracks and leaks. It is really really difficult to remove

At least my sign still says "Oliver", and not a stop sign. LOL Poke poke.

In theory, it's quite possible. Especially, with lithium. This week, we're running two fridges on solar, only, as a friend brought his thermoelectric fridge to camp with us. It's been slim, with only two agm 105 ah batteries in our 2008 legacy I, but we manage. We unplug the thermoelectric at night, as we did, camping in iceland with a thermoelectric cooler. (It's a beer cooler, and it's not hot here. We park it in the shade at night, and it's still 40 in the morning. ) Add up the amp hours. Add 100 per cent extra to solar for expected charge. Carry a really small genset for a string of crappy days Pretty sure we could do it . I'd carry an outdoor gas/butane or propane burner, for cooking. The big gas hog is the furnace. If you pack good sleeping bags or bedding, you won't need as much heat. 12v heat is a mystery to me. I doubt it's worthwhile.

I might pay the price for my decision in 5 years or so. Or, when asked why I'm trading in this Ollie for a new one, I'll simply say the Oliver sign is "stuck". Thanks!

Before I found Oliver I took a look at the Little Snoozy camper (made in South Carolina). While a few owners of the Snoozy have put propane into that camper, they do not come from the factory with any propane connections in them - they are all electric (kind of). I understand that with a relatively recent change of ownership they are (or are intending to) offer a solar option. If, indeed, your intent is to never boondock or only boondock for very short periods of time going all electric is possible even without spending copious amounts of money on solar. Bill

Back to Claudia's third tail light lens question. In our 2008, the lens was attached directly to the fiberglass with some type of tough marine adhesive sealant, I'm guessing probably 3m 4200. We were able to remove that with a heat gun on low, from the inside, and a putty knife, working carefully. Unfortunately, a couple spots were held in place with a dab of epoxy, which was much tougher. Yours is likely held in 3m4200, or something like that. I know you've seen my thread on what we did, using butyl and stainless screws, but that's an experiment in progress. If you can get the lens out in one piece, (we couldn't, because of the dabs of epoxy), you'll want to clean it and the surrounding fiberglass thoroughly, and apply and seal with a compatible marine adhesive sealant. If we had gone that route, my choice would have been loctite marine fast cure, or Dow 795 (dowsil), as they're compatible with fiberglass, polycarbonate, and most plastics/acrylics, and easier to deal with and remove later than silicon or polyurethane. I don’t know if the lens is polycarbonate or acrylic, so I'd want a sealant compatible with both.

I think it would be better to switch to diesel fired appliances - a Webasto combination furnace/ on-demand hot water heater and a stovetop, and a DC compressor fridge. These fridges run at about 50% duty cycle typically and use about 3 amps, way way less than the electric heater in a 3-way fridge, which is about 15 amps. The diesel stuff is extremely compact and reliable, you would gain a bunch of storage volume in back where the existing furnace and HWH are now, and you could ditch the propane bottles and the doghouse and mount a neat cargo rack in their place. A 3 gallon plastic diesel tank could be located in a number of places. The cost of a whole bunch of panel$ and a whole bunch of lithium batterie$ would be more than the cost of switching to diesel, and you would not be in big trouble if the sun doesn’t shine or you want to park under a tree. Most locations out West other than commercial RV parks don’t have any kind of hookup….. John Davies Spokane WA

Will you be using the refrigerator? It will tax your solar/batteries at night. We currently have a propane leak (regulator needs replacing). We're on the road and while I'll keep the fridge cool using solar/batteries during the day, I'll turn the fridge off at night. We use the propane alot, we have the propane outlets at the front and rear to hook up a Weber grill, some folks use them for propane fire-pits. Our Truma water heater uses propane,, I just can't imagine being propane free, it's messing up this trip for sure! LOL

When we had three ways, I learned to use manual settings, never auto. What probably happened was there was air in the line, causing the fridge to go back to dc, as default. Before running a fridge on lp, I always ran a burner on the cooktop, first. The cooktop draws more fuel, and isn't as sensitive to an air bubble in the line. Fills the gas line.. the fridge uses a very small amount if lp, and will shut down with just a bit of air in the line, in my experience. After running a burner for 20 or thirty seconds, I'd shut down the burner, and fire up the fridge. Glad you checked everything, and didn't deplete your batteries, running the fridge on dc, unintentionally. Good for you!

Coffee, beer, wine, nachos, Cheetos, popcorn and donuts. If my wife is coming along then some other stuff. 😇