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I would certainly follow AndrewK's advice above. The following screenshots are from the SeeLevel II manual. It looks like there are 2 power wires to the panel. One for the display and one for the pump and the pump circuit is working ok. The picture below shows the character in your picture and it’s a T. And the solution is to see the wiring diagnostic section. Seems like good place to start since you reinstalled the batteries. You should be able to access the back of the display through the pantry to verify the panel wiring connector. This last picture picture references frozen or unresponsive displays. Good luck! Mossey

I have talked to the service department and management. We will take care of the tank modification for free if you can bring it to our service center in Tennessee. You will need to call 1-888-526-3978 to schedule the tank modification. Let me know if you have any questions!

Shutting off the 60A breaker to the batteries for a few minutes did the trick.. thanks Mossey

I will try to find out tomorrow. Originally we mailed everyone a kit. Some of you got it and did the modification on your own. Some brought their units in to us and we did it. It's been a long time since we have looked at it and might take a few days to figure it out again.

Mark/Deb, I would contact Gabe Morales at Garnet Industries. He is Oliver's contact with Garnet and is very helpful! Gabe Morales <gmorales@garnetinstruments.com> Andrew

Don't you just love autocorrect? I need to proofread better. Windex, not wine. Lol.

I think like a lot of Elite II buyers, we were torn between the twin beds vs the king. We chose the twin, but not so much for the size or comfort of the beds as it was the utility of nightstand and easy access to the overhead compartments. But we liked the idea of having a table and a large lounging area in the back, and so I set my mind on the idea of trying to have both. At first I designed a custom table for the back that would latch into the nightstand in the back with a pole in front, similar to how the dinette table works. I showed it to Oliver and they thought they'd give it a try, but as time went on and things got delayed or forgotten, I sort of gave up on that idea and asked if they would just sell me the standard table top and legs and I would figure it out. They did, and it was a big mistake since I could never figure it out. The table was just too heavy and bulky to put up and take down, and there was absolutely no place to store it. Plus the height with the standard legs was too short for the mattresses we had (another poor decision on my part). So on our first trip it was labeled the Albatross Table and it was just in the way the whole time. It didn't make another trip, just the two mounts screwed to the floor to remind me that not every problem has a solution. But the solution does exist in the Lagun table. I'd seen them before in the king bed model but I had sort of dismissed them as being too small to be of use. But that was before @rideadeuce started this topic about their upgraded table top. Their top was much larger, foldable, and just generally nicer looking than what I'd seen before; and so it clicked with me that with the Lagun mount, we could have a foldable table that could easily be stored or moved out of the way for access to the upper storage. Also the height could be whatever we wanted and unlike the table we had, could be quickly locked for travel. There were just two problems for us - the mount in it's normal location would block the nightstand drawer; and on top of that, we had opted for an access hatch to the basement right in that same spot where the Lagun is usually bolted to the hull. I needed a way to mount the table to the side somehow. So I made one of these - This contraption is made out of 15 Series extrusion from 80/20. I cut, mitered, and erector setted this little block and associated connectors to go beneath the bed overhang. The Lagun mounting plate (the vertical piece) bolts to the mount and then the whole thing gets bolted to the side wall under the bed in four places and to the bed overhang in four places. It looks complicated but if you have a miter saw and can play with Legos, you can build it. Here are some pics of the block in place so you can see how it mounts. The top two bolts on the Lagun plate bolt into the side of the bed extension, then there are two bolts on the block that secure vertically into the base of the extension, then another four bolts that go into the side wall of the base of the bed, opposite the basement. I marked and drilled for the two vertical holes first, then temporarily bolted it in place to mark all the other holes. You need to do this since not all of the surfaces are perpendicular to the trailer or one another. But the flat bottom of the bed extension runs parallel to the floor so if you use that as your starting point then the table top will end up parallel to the floor as well. The end result is extremely solid - The table top I chose is the 35" Nautic Sail top from Marine Teak. Look around on their site and you'll find a number of styles and sizes, any of which would be a great choice. (This is the same company as this one, btw, but they have more choices in table tops on their UK site.) I debated oiling it, but came to my senses and coated it in a couple layers of low gloss poly. Taking it apart to seal is no problem, but you do have to keep track of a number of shims that go under the hinges to make them flush to the wood. So here's the final result. I really like the versatility of the top. Use it folded, unfolded, bar height, table height, sideways, lengthways, stick it over the bed for travel or to get it out of the way, or...however. With the mounting plate where it is, we can raise the table hight enough to clear the nightstand and lower it enough that it sits on the bed locked in place for travel. As you can see, the drawer clears just fine. The table will work best once we have our cushions made to replace the mattresses, but we just did a quick weekend trip with it and it works well even as it is. And best of all, it fits in the closet -

Well after great trips in CO, UT and SD this year our Oliver is winterized at the RV storage lot. I though I would share my expeience with a generic-size cover and exteral solar set-up to maintain my batteries while the roof-top panels are covered. The 100-watt Renogy exteral solar panel with charge controller that has been discussed in other forum threads was just reduced in price on Amazon. At $189 now it's well worth it! The included battery clamp cable is long enough to reach from the battery compartment to the rear of the trailer where I have it to get morning sun. The cable can be routed to exit the battery compartment at the bottom corner and still close and lock properly. It's just long enough to reach to the back of the trailer where it can absorb morning sun. I was worred about possible theft but have added a locking cable to the very robust steel solar panel handle on the side which is rivited to the frame. The cable is locked to the frame crossbar on the underside of the trailer. Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Off Grid Portable Foldable 2Pcs 50W Solar Panel Suitcase Built-in Kickstand with Waterproof 20A Charger Controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JVBVL3/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 I decided to try a cover that is sold by Costco Online knowing that if I wasn't satisfied I could easily take it back to the store. I've been pleasantly suprised at both the quality and fit. Just thought I would share in case others are looking for options when covered storage is just not an option. The cover has already disappeared from the Costco website but here it the link to Amazon for the same model. The 15-18 ft cover reaches to cover the propane/electric jack and the rear spare tire. Once the straps are secured, its a pretty nice fit. Classic Accessories SkyShield Travel Trailer Cover, 15'-18'FT https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Accessories-80-382-103001-EX-Travel-Trailer/dp/B01KHX27HS I've only had it set-up for a couple weeks but so far it's working well and hasn't cost me a fortune. Wanted to share in case others are considering similar options. (Photos attached) 2020 Elite II, Hull 627, 2020 Silverado 1500 3.0L Duramax

Hello, we are Steve and Tammy Roark and we are perspective owners. We live in southwest Missouri and have RVed for fifty years. We still have our Country Coach Motorhome but want to downsize. We use VRBO extensively but miss the RV lifestyle. We had the good fortune of seeing two Oliver Elite II’s, both in twin bed configuration. Thanks to Mike and Carol who showed us their unit while we were all visiting Branson and Steve from Rogersville up by Springfield Missouri. My wife and I often travel with our two German Shorthair Pointer dogs (70 and 45 pounds) and they each take turns sleeping with us. We are concerned that the twin bed model beds would not be big enough for us. So I saw where the gentleman that offers the nice wooden upgrades offers a center section for between the twins that would likely satisfy our pups and it appears to be easily removed for times when you want to leave the twin bed set up. We don’t think we want to lose the night stand by going with the standard model. But having said that does anyone leave the standard model bed set up as a bed full time. Looks like it would be at least a queen size. We know we will go with custom beds, so next question, can you make the twins wider by starting out at 30 inches then widen out by two or three inches once past the night stand area. Just searching for any tested ideas. Thank you Steve and Tammy.

The "issue" with the 30 pounders is that they MUST be refilled at a facility that refills propane tanks while with the 20 pounders you have the additional flexibility of "swapping" these tanks for filled ones at many gas stations, WalMarts, grocery stores, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. This ability to swap really comes into its own in places like Vail Valley, Colorado where they have prohibited "refill stations" throughout the entire Vail area. On the other hand, if you are going to be doing a bunch of cold weather camping then the 30 pounders really come in handy. Bill

I have a 2018 LEII that I pull with a Toyota Tundra 5.7L. I have the anti-sway hitch. As John eluded, I have never weighed anything. I have the front utility tray loaded with a big cooler full of beer and ice everywhere I go (It probably weighs 75 lbs by the end of the weekend just from melted ice). We also carry a bunch of mostly unnecessary camping gear in the bed (of unknown, but significant weight). I have never had a problem with sway or porpousing. I would say my biggest concern is with my brakes.

My wife and I have an Elite II standard floor plan on order. We chose the standard floor plan for two reasons: (1) it allows a 75"x79" king bed with no night stand in the middle and (2) when we recently toured an Elite II with the twin bed floor plan, we both felt a bit cramped lying on one of the twin beds, which the owner graciously allowed us to try. I am a big guy and one shoulder hung off the side of the twin. Not o.k. for me. We plan to use the Elite II for just the two of us, and so will exclusively use the dinette area for meals, reading, etc., leaving the king bed "permanently" made up. Hope this helps your decision. Ralph Pond a/k/a Rivernerd (I am a catarafter and look kinda "white & nerdy") No Hull# yet Central Idaho 2019 Tundra Double Cab 4x4 with tow package

Another person that did the standard to twin bed conversion is Mossemi, Bill

Spanning the area between the twin beds doesn’t take advantage of the full space since the nightstand is there. Plus, there is the issue of cushions/mattress to make the area level. The “Twin Bed Conversion” post above is mine and after a year or so of experimenting with it we don’t really use it anymore, at least not the last couple of years. We don’t have big dogs, but it might get a little crowded with a big dog in a twin (30”) bed. Mike

I don’t think Oliver would sell these trailers without a tongue tray but with a rear bike rack if they were concerned about sway. There are plenty of clueless owners who don’t weigh anything at all, and they heavily load the back. Most of their LE2 advertising USED TO show light tow vehicles such as a Sequoia, so that was perhaps misleading. Their current images rarely show a TV at all, maybe they got cautious about what those earlier pictures implied. OTH as I pointed out, my LE2 with 480 pounds TW tows beautifully, with minimal Andersen chain tension, just enough to stabilize the vertical motion... I don’t think we should blindly use stick and staple 10-15% recommendations for these much higher quality trailers...**** IMHO **** Of course a higher TW won’t hurt if you have a stout enough TV. And it would be beneficial if you are in an accident and find yourself in civil court. But I have never heard of a court case where they actually weighed the trailer as evidence…. As long as you don’t hang a motorcycle off the back, and stay within the recommended guidelines, no worries. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks so much! That looks perfect! I didn't want to lose out on the basement door or the bedside drawer. Great idea!

Hello all! We recently picked up a "new to us" 2010 Elite II (hull #45) and couldn't be happier to finally be part of the Oliver family. Outside of needing a thorough detailing, she seems to be in excellent shape for the year, and came with a mountain of service records. It's been crazy the amount of Facebook private messages we've received on our Ollie.. Everything from "it's a scam, they didn't make an Elite II in 2010" to "must be a prototype", and that it being Hull #45 it "must be the last one made before production shut down in 2009 because only 45 total were made up to that point".. whatever the story is, we love it and look forward to making it our own over the next few months by adding solar, new flooring, LED lights, etc. Looking forward to being part of this forum, to educate ourselves, and to hopefully able to contribute where we can. Chris and Chris Some pics of our Ollie https://photos.app.goo.gl/YGDFPmbSwGrzozVBA

Steve & Mary Allyn in San Antonio here, introducing ourselves to the group. Delivery of our LE II is just a few weeks away. It's supposed to hatch November 29. We had been considering an Ollie for a couple of years when last January we saw one by chance up close during a rest stop on a road trip. Its build quality and design aesthetic sells itself. We placed our order in February. As owners of a classic GMC motorhome we're not new to RV'ing, but this our first travel trailer. The LE II is a bit smaller inside than our GMC, but we're already familiar with a wet bath and small walk around space. We've enjoyed following this forum as our egg has been incubating. Thank you to the many contributors of the interesting and useful posts on this forum. The collective wisdom is awesome. We hope we'll soon be adding our experiences and ideas to benefit the community.

John, do you have the Stone Stomper? Looks great! SeaDawg, it took me months to come to grips with the amount of money I had to spend on the T3, but like the Oliver, I think it will hold it’s value very well. I don’t consider it a depreciating asset like the tow vehicle. And, I’m 72 years old—no sense in compromising at this stage of my life!

Oh, and 30 lb propane tanks and NH toilet....

Fully loaded with food and clothes for a month, solar, lithium, Truma, no basket or bike rack, full freshwater tank but empty gray and black tanks, our LE2 weighed in at 5,900 lbs. Of this, 5,250 lbs were on the axles, leaving a 650-lb hitch weight. Hitch weight is about 11% of total weight.

Islandgrl, 2019 Elite II twin with solar, (2) 100 amp/hour Battle Born batteries, 20 lbs. propane tanks and no front basket or rear bike rack. With full propane and all our gear, food and clothes for a two week trip, our tongue weight is 400 lbs. With full water it is 500 lbs. These weights are from a CAT scale. Hope this helps. Andrew

I have paid close attention to tongue weight as I have a marginal tow vehicle. My 2020 Elite II came out of the factory at about 5,500 lbs with full fresh water tank and a tongue weight of about 550-570 lbs (Shurline 1000 lb scale). It had the front cargo carrier (since removed and stored) and 20 lb tanks plus the solar option. I do not have a composting toilet. Since every pound of cargo capacity in my tow vehicle is precious, I have endeavored to reduce my tongue weight to no more than 9% of fully loaded trailer weight which for me is about 520 lbs, and succeeded. (I agree with others on this forum that 9% tongue weight is just fine for the LE II). All I did to reduce tongue weight was remove the front basket (-35 lbs.), switched from 20 lb steel tanks to 17 lb composite tanks (-20 lbs) and switched to four 105 Ah Lithium Ion batteries (-100+ lbs). As others have said, how one loads the trailer for travel can have a large affect on tongue weight. Anything loaded behind the door has a negligible affect on tongue weight, or even positive effect if loaded in the very rear of the trailer. Anything loaded in the bathroom or closet has a significant effect on tongue weight, as do the contents of the black water tank. I suspect those reporting tongue weights in excess of 600 lbs carry at least 50 lb. in the front basket, and have the 30 lb propane tank option. This alone would add close to 100 lbs. of tongue weight on top of the 520 lbs that I now typically see when pulling my LE II.

Using a tongue scale at pickup, without water and before loading anything aboard my 2021 it had a tongue weight of 700 lbs. Options include: solar, 6v agms, microwave delete, composting toilet and outdoor pro package. Total dry weight listed on trailer title was 5,235 lbs. hope this helps

490 is for a “no option” trailer with no fluids or cargo. Whether you have the tongue tray and/ or the bike rack will have the most effect on tongue weight, by as much as about 200 pounds. Equipment mounted close to the axles really doesn’t matter, it adds to the empty weight, reducing the available payload, and the TW will go up a little, but it isn’t that big of an effect. Solar panels and the batteries are centered over the axles. The latter especially is an excellent (and very uncommon) design feature. I do not know the TW for a fully loaded (7000 pounds) LE2 without a tray or bike rack, but on my trailer, I shifted the factory tray from front to back, onto a custom mount. With the same 120 pound load (2 full jerry gas cans and other stuff and including the weight of supports and the tray itself) the TW dropped from 720 to 480! This is with a trailer towing weight of “about” 6000. I haven’t had it on a truck scale, but I do use a TW scale. This was with four AGMs, solar and full 30 pound bottles; since then I reduced the empty weight by 200 pounds by going to lithiums…. Picking a number from what I have read here, IMHO you should use 650 as a baseline. The amount of stuff you carry including water and waste is a factor, but be very aware that hanging a heavy generator on the tongue or a couple of ebikes off the back could skew this number dramatically! At least one member is really into Power Wagons, please post a pic😀 Are you planning to use the Andersen hitch? I suspect that it could be helpful since the PW has such (wonderfully) soft suspension, and a very small payload for a 2500. Does yours have the Ram Boxes? The Andersen would add 50 pounds to the TW but it would shift a little weight onto the front axle (if you tension the chains very hard - I do not). Or alternatively add rear airbags, for leveling. If it were mine, that would be my choice… along with an off-road coupler, hitch, and an Extreme offroad tongue jack, as overland has done to his LE2 and Ford Raptor. That setup just won’t work on my short LC200😤 I suggest that you try towing with a $40 dead weight ball and drop mount and later buy the Andersen if you felt it was needed to control jounce on choppy highways. And IMHO do NOT buy the tongue tray, instead put your generator in the front of the truck bed to reduce the TW. A location six feet in front of the ball is way better than two feet behind it. I forget where you will be living - East Coast? If so, you won’t use a generator that much anyway, until you get out West. John Davies Spokane WA

There are those on the Forum that claim much higher tongue weights than others. Some of these differences can be attributed to "caution" or conservative guessing. But, I would guess that most of the differences can be attributed to what is loaded or how it is loaded in any particular Ollie. Each Oliver is weighed at the end of production and has its specific weight noted in that Oliver. In my case - a twin bed with solar, 20 pound propane tanks, nothing in any tank and ready for a trip, the tongue weight varies from 600 pounds to 640 pounds. Again, the standard configuration and the twin bed configuration will each have their own individual weight depending on the specific trailer. Having said this, I don't believe that there is very much difference between the two with regards to total and/or tongue weight. Bill

Thank you all for this information. We pick up our new Oliver Legacy II on January 04, 2022. We purchased the Lithium Pro package with 390 AH. I am absolutely the new guy that has no idea about power consumption, charging, solar, care and maintenance of batteries etc. Seems a bit overwhelming right now. I'll continue to read/digest info in the forum. Suggestions on where I sould be starting? My pull vehicle is 2018 Expedition 4x4 Max. I'm hoping that is reasonable. Jim

I do consider wine to be essential. 😁 therfore, not to be wasted cleaning the bath floor.

Perhaps you could explain that technique? 😃 John Davies Spokane WA

We left the bath vent open when Fred swept through Western North Carolina several weeks ago. We measured a foot of rain in 24 hours. The rug in the bath got damp, not wet. Not a big deal, at all. I took the rug out and dried it in the sun after the storm, and wiped the floor with windex and a paper towel. We do have ez rain gutter on the windows. We have the same Maxx Dome vent that Oliver uses now, but never had much of an issue with the Ventline vent either, until the seal failed. That was more than 10 years in.

If it’s a gentle rain you can deploy your awning and open your curb side window. If you have double awnings your can deploy both and open windows. Personally from experience, I find the Ollies sliding windows provide much better cross ventilation than the swing out windows.

The bath window is small and only opens upwards a few inches. I would worry more about a kid peeking through the little gap than the tiny amount of water that could enter. Some people put a little curtain there. Or buy the optional shower curtain track. I use neither, I am not shy😬. Or just leave it closed as suggested above, the bath vent is big enough by itself. Remember that water entry is nearly a non issue, the only thing that might happen in the main cabin is damp bedding. Though having a LOT of water drip down onto the electrical stuff along the street side lower cabinets through the access hatches would not be good. The hull structure and frame itself would never be harmed by water trickling in…. Unlike your stickie. Enjoy your tour, it will be a little overwhelming, find the time to just sit quietly inside without the owner, if he is amenable, to contemplate the space. It is very different, you will either love it or hate it. It is so much like a nice boat, rather than a wood paneled Rv with faux electric fireplace, acres of empty floor space and outside entertainment center. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks to all for the replies. I think we're really close to pulling the trigger on purchasing an Ollie. Going to see one tomorrow. Just going through the mental exercise of looking for potential issues so we can make an informed decision. Very different beast than our "stickie" rigs have been.

We keep both vents open which is generally enough. We’ve had the bathroom window open during rain and it’s not really a big deal, like Mcb said. EZE gutters around the windows also help. Mike

We’ve never had more rain come in through the bathroom window or vent than a paper towel could handle..

Just open your awning about a foot and it will shield the curbside window. That's SOP for us when we set up camp. Works great, and at 12" the awning isn't extended far enough to catch any wind, so you can leave camp or sleep without worrying about it. One of the main reasons for opting for the second awning IMO is to be able to do the same on the street side.

No problem, there’s plenty of room under the doghouse cover for one on each tank. I’ll take pics of my gauges on tanks first chance I get. This video gives a better explanation of how it works. https://youtu.be/_g38JponlN4

Agreed, I bought two of those before I took delivery of my Elite 2, based on a video I watched onTechnoRV.com. They seem to work fine. You just have to remember to give the active tank a few pumps after you turn the valve on. https://www.technorv.com/gasstop

I don't know how reliable they are but some folks add an emergency shutoff device to their setup which is supposed to stop the flow of propane if the flow gets too high. Tanks have some sort of emergency shutoff valve internally nowadays too but I don't know the details of how they work other than that I need to turn my gas grill on tank first then burners or else this valve will engage and the flow while not dropping to zero will be VERY low. If this engages, I need to shut of the tank and wait something like thirty seconds and then turn things back on in the correct order (an order that avoids a sudden rush of gas when turning the grill on).

I’m in agreement with Fritz, I am relatively new to this and have been using our 3-way Norcold fridge in 12V mode when in transit…..sometimes….depends on the situation. We have hull 797, with standard 340W Zamp solar package. I replaced the new, standard lead-acid deep cycle batteries with 2 x 100AH BattleBorn lithium. It has the Zamp controller, no Inverter. The TV charge wire is disconnected inside Oliver, per Oliver protocol for lithium packages. As an example of my experimenting to date, our last trip we drove a few hundred miles per day for last 2 days, and dry camped each night in a different location. No generator. I ran the fridge on 12V both days for about 6 hours each sunny day when driving, including gas and rest stops, then switched to propane when parked for the night. Ran the Maxxair fan at low or medium full-time, except when driving. Used all the 12v lights whenever needed, used awning LED and courtesy lights at night, and water pump for dishwashing and showers. When I arrived home, my Victron BMV monitor showed SOC at 80%. So in those sunny conditions, I think I can run like this daily for many days with no concerns, but not always. If I expect overcast skies, and perhaps no AC plug in to re-charge for several days, I’ll run on propane. I understand most Trailers/RV owners run propane most of the time, which is simple, trouble-free, and most efficient. I do it too sometimes, but I have safety concerns in the event of an accident. That rear propane quick connect is just behind the rear bumper, and I have nearly been rear-ended several times in stop & go interstate traffic, which is one of the most common type of crashes. I understand the stats show that propane related fires are rare, but insurance & liability concerns have me a bit paranoid. I studied the fine print on my insurance policy, can’t find a reference to this issue. If someone has some legal or common sense insight on these liability issues, please let me know. As I mentioned, I’m relatively new to this and appreciate the wisdom from this forum.

Hi John D. We picked up our trailer last month and when we travelled back from Tennessee to Washington State, we had the fridge on 12 volts all the time. (we have the lithium pro option- 390ah) . The batteries at the end of the travel days were always just under 90% according to the Lithionics Battery app. We are new, but we love our Oliver!

When Steve began this thread, I thought fantastic! However, I took the concept in a different direction. It is true an Ollie is nice and multiple Ollies camping together is very nice, but an Ollie is a possession. I believe Ollies are special due to the owners! I sense we are very different from the average travel trailer owner. With that thought in mind, I began to think about how we would describe a collection of Ollie owners. Thoughts? Buzzy