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At the Oliver facility campground tonight. Just pulled in. We are the only one here so far. Our Ollie goes in for service at 8AM. This is so nice. They even have a dump station. I can't tell you how much I appreciate that Oliver did this. I know it helps them with new trailer delivery too and not paying for David Crockett State park. I don't care, to have this after a 7 hour drive and to be so close for service is awesome. Thank you Oliver. The sites are nice and we hope to meet either a new owner or someone in for service when we pick up Tuesday afternoon. We will be here again Tuesday evening. Before heading to South Carolina.

Switch was indeed from Amazon.Its rated for 12VDC at either 5 amps (according to Amazon) or 7 amps (per the packaging), so make sure that's consistent with the current draw of your TV or whatever other device you're switching... Not exactly heavy duty, but easy to replace if/when it dies... just unplug it and put the original power cord back into the TV power input jack. https://www.amazon.com/button-switch-universal-driving-lights/dp/B07G17HWW8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=JIANFA+Car+Push+Button+Switch&s=industrial&sr=1-2

These are the connectors I used to avoid cutting the TV's OEM power cord and also to make the whole switch assembly easily connector-removable: https://www.amazon.com/Pigtail-Female-Connectors-Security-Adapter/dp/B07C7VSRBG/ref=pd_sbs_328_2/147-5472012-5513723?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07C7VSRBG&pd_rd_r=4d4a4233-ce04-4370-a00b-c599dcee81af&pd_rd_w=auQA9&pd_rd_wg=FsjF2&pf_rd_p=52ff3488-8ecd-4341-9663-52e4fb00f500&pf_rd_r=TX8N0D8R7FK6E6ANGQS2&psc=1&refRID=TX8N0D8R7FK6E6ANGQS2 Not exactly heavy duty either... the wire is very fine and definitely not 18 AWG as the Amazon listing claims. Works with the Jensen JTV24DC 12v television in our 2018 Elite. If you have a different TV, you may need a different connector or beefier wire size...

Thanks for sharing your experience with the smaller 900 watt EU1000i and the Progressive Dynamics 60 amp converter/charger. I checked the specs on the PD60 amp model and it requires a 1000 watt input to deliver 60 amps to the batteries at 13.6 volts which means it has a conversion efficiency of less than 82%. Since the charging current is not adjustable in the PD60, anyone with a PD60 must use a generator rated at a minimum of 1,000 watts continuous to charge their batteries and the EU1000i will not work. So to summarize: If your Oliver has the Progressive Dynamics 60 amp converter/charger, then you cannot use an EU1000i to charge your batteries. If one has the PD45 (45 amp converter/charger), then the EU1000i is more than adequate and moving to a larger generator would not provide any charging benefits. Finally, if one has any one of the inverters (2000 watt or 3000 watt), the EU1000i will definitely work because the maximum charge current is user selectable. Also, because the inverter/chargers are more efficient (rated at 91% nominal efficiency versus 82%), the EU1000i should be able to comfortably charge the batteries at a 55 amp rate and possibly even 60 amp.

I just removed the PD9160AL 60 amp converter/charger from my Elite I and installed the PD9145AL 45 amp so I can use my EU1000i to top off batteries when needed. The EU1000i could not power up the 60amp version without overloading. I have the EU2200i as well but prefer lugging around the smaller generator.

Yes, indeed. We have a 45 amp charger, now. And, we had an even lower amp charger, in days gone by. We don't have lithium batteries, don't even have an inverter, so no 110 appliances, thusly, we use less power than many people. And, we're ok with that. We camp. When it's cold, we put on another blanket, and keep the furnace on the lowest setting. We tend to use our Oliver like a hard sided tent. That's not the ultimate for everyone, but it works for us, and, we enjoy it. I'll be interested in your results, if you decide to carry a little 1000 watt, like us. It certainly won't suit those who want to run ac, or microwave, from a genset direct but it charges batteries, just fine, for us.

i agree with SeaDawg on the point that you should go to see each of the two Oliver trailers yourself (if you have not already done so) and decide which one fits your needs best. It is best to see each trailer in person and not just look at pictures. Oliver sales people can set up with existing Oliver owner's in your area for you to visit.

We store food for two for easily two weeks and more in an elite. You'd have tons of empty space in a 2. See both. Decide what you're comfortable towing. Either is great for a single person. The lighter, smaller Elite opens up a larger universe of campsites, and tow vehicles. But the price is pretty steep for a little trailer. Making twin beds in an elite is tough. At least one will be narrow, at 24". We leave the rear/big dinette set up as a bed. The small dinette is fine for inside dining, when we hit ugly weather . We usually eat outside. Good luck in your decision.

Thanks! The dimming stickers look interesting & worth a try! We have an Elite with less solar / battery capacity, so phantom current draw is more of an issue than it is for the Elite II's. We replaced the factory USB charging outlets with higher capacity ones with no LED; less phantom current draw and faster charging. We put a rolled up pair of socks in front of the surge protector display in the upper rear attic compartment 🙂 We also added an in-line on/off switch to the TV in between factory power cord and the jack on the TV, which was very bright and in-our-face all night since we sleep "sideways" in the smaller Elite. It kills the light when we're not using the TV, is easy to turn on/off, and eliminates yet another phantom current draw.

Search for LED Dimming Tape. Here's an example: LightDims Original Strength - Light Dimming LED Covers and Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances and More. Dims 50-80% of Light, in Minimal Packaging. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLVEQCO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_23QKMHRXF291XRET77YH

This is how I did it. Cheap faucet line from Ace and the cut-off bottom from a antifreeze jug. No squirt, splash or mess to clean up.

Kirk: My wife and I have an Oliver Elite II on order for delivery next summer. We have found the folks on this forum to be incredibly helpful and knowledgeable. It is one of the reasons we ultimately chose to order an Oliver. When we began investigating Olivers, we quickly learned that they are in high demand. Used ones sell quickly for close to what they cost initially, and there is presently a 9-to-10 month lag between a new factory order and delivery. Good luck with your decision.

Nice place you're living in. And, there sure is some pretty country out there. Welcome to Oliver! If there is anything that we can do to help you - just let us know. Bill

I've modified structures in the past using various means. Steel will offer the shallowest option for you, and an engineer can calculate it for you. There are alternative garage doors (barn style operation designed to look just like what you have, for instance); that would eliminate overhead obstructions inside the garage as well. Alternatively, you could approach the garage from the side wall near the front corner, if you have the space to make that approach. But construction these days of any sort is not only prohibitively expensive, it's also frustrating and slow due to lack of materials and parts.

The 2022 Ford F-250 gas 7.3L engine uses 87 octane & 6.2L engine uses 87/E85 gasoline. Found the above in the specification section of the following link: https://www.ford.com/trucks/super-duty/models/f250-xlt/ Hope that's helpful.

All really good information in this thread. I am bumping it because I have also considered getting a 1,000-watt generator (Honda or Yamaha) to use for topping off my batteries instead of my current generator which is the Honda EUI 2200 Companion. My LE II charges the batteries via the 2000-watt inverter/charger so while boondocking last week, I decided to determine how many charging amps I could deliver to my batteries with a Honda 1000-watt peak generator (900 watt rated) before overloading the generator, after accounting for electrical losses through the inverter charger. The 2000-watt inverter/charger in my Oliver can be set to a maximum charge current limit of 0-80 amps in 5-amp increments meaning it is capable of delivering 80 amps to the batteries IF the batteries can accept 80 amps. I have the lithium phosphate batteries so they will always accept 80 amps charging current up to full state of charge with my EUI 2200, but the smaller generator would not be able to deliver 80 amps to the batteries without overloading. It is straightforward though to calculate how many watts a generator must deliver at 120 volts for the converter/charger to deliver any given number of amps to the batteries at 14 volts, ignoring losses. What I did not know was how many watts the generator must deliver to also make up for the losses in the converter/charger and wiring. Using the formula volts x amps = watts, I knew that the minimum watts that a generator must deliver at 120 volts to provide 80 amps to the batteries at 14 volts would be 1,120 watts. 14 volts x 80 amps = 1,120 watts. The Honda EUI 1000 is rated at only 900 watts continuous so I knew it could not support 80 amps charge current to the batteries, but I did not know what the maximum charge current that a 900 MW generator could support when accounting for losses. The maximum charge current with no losses would be 64 amps 14 volts x 64 amps = 900 watts. While I was charging the batteries at 80 amps with the EUI 2200 last week, I read the 120-volt input amps to the inverter from the panel, and it showed that the generator was supplying 10.2 amps of 120-volt power to the inverter. This meant that the generator was supplying 1,224 watts to the inverter including any bypass current to any other 120 trailer loads. 120 volts *10.2 amps = 1,224 watts I did have my satellite receiver operating on 120-volt power at the time, so I assume that the inverter/charger itself was requiring approximately 1,200 watts at 120 volts to deliver 80 amps to the batteries at 14 volts. This implies that inverter/charger losses were about 7% meaning 93 percent of the 120-volt input power was reaching the batteries. (1200 watts - 1,120 watts) / 1,120 watts = 7% losses Now, using the loss factor of 7%, a 900-watt generator could be expected to deliver a maximum of 837 watts to the batteries in my Oliver. 900 watts x 0.93 =837 watts This means that the I would need to set the maximum charge current in my inverter/charger to no more than 60 amps, or the 900-watt generator would overload and shut down. 14 volts x 60 amps = 840 watts For me, this means that if I switched to the 900-watt Honda generator it would take about 33% longer to top off my batteries than it does now with the larger EUI 2200 at 80 amps charge current. For example, if it would otherwise take 3 hours of generator operation to top off my batteries with the EUI 2200 at an 80-amp charge rate (i.e., 240 ah into the batteries), it would take 4 hours to get the same 240 ah into the batteries with the 900-watt generator. Some with the inverter/charger may find this longer run time unacceptable. I personally think it is a reasonable tradeoff when boondocking, given the much lower weight, quieter operation, and lower fuel consumption of the 900-watt generator. (of course, it would not run the air conditioner) If I can ever find the Honda EUI 1000 in stock anywhere again, I will probably pick one up. It also explains why SeaDawg has been more than happy with their Honda 1000. I assume they have the 45-amp converter/charger so there would be no charging benefit for them of using a larger generator. It would not charge their batteries any faster. I am not a professional and may have made mistakes in this assessment. Please correct me if I have.

You aren't THAT "Bill," are you????!!!! 🤣

I have ideas and I’m great at spending other people’s money but my elite II is not being delivered until spring. My practical experience is lacking but I’ve read some of the install reports and a common theme is short running cycles. My thought is the unit should be sized so it runs almost continuously on the hottest days but has enough reserve capacity to quickly bring the temp down. To be honest I’m thinking about taking apart the new unit and remote mounting the temperature sensor if possible. That might take care of the short cycle behavior. Looking at total power draw the short cycling might be advantageous, not sure.

Sure I tried it - but - I never inhaled! 😁 Bill

If those things coat the walls and other surfaces I wonder what it does to the human lung….

I don’t think you need to be too concerned with weight even if you get all the options you list. I haven’t weighed our trailer fully loaded but I don’t think we’re anywhere near the upper limit. We load the fridge and freezer with as much as we can stuff in. Our pantry is also packed tight. We travel with a full fresh tank and carry bottled water as well. We carry plenty of clothing, way more than 20lbs. Add in pots, pans, coffee makers etc and we’re still good. We’ve got the big propane tanks, inverter, 6 gallon water heater and more. I wouldn’t let weight concerns cause option elimination. Mike

Within this long thread from a year ago, there was a discussion about the dimming stickers Steph and Dud linked. Looks like @WhatDa found them to be useful. "TV Led (it turns on when the TV is off), Zamp Panel, Stereo Display/time, USB port LEDs, Microwave Display, WiFi Booster LED, and awning LEDs up front. We used 1 or 2 dimming stickers on each of these. TV got a blackout since it projects straight down on curb side - just had to be careful as the IR receiver for the remote is right next to the bright blue LED." In our older Elite we have a stereo switch that turns the panel light off. The dometic fridge lights bothered me when we had the dometic, but didn't bother my husband. Our solar monitor goes dark when the sun goes down. Tv is usually unplugged. The lights under the small dinette don't bother me.

That dimming tape looks great, I might try it. You can kill the power to the radio and the “inside the window” antenna completely, in my hull 218 there is a switch type breaker in the rear “attic” cabinet, I don’t know where yours is. Please add your Hull number to a signature so we don’t have to ask. When I added extra USB charge ports, I intentionally picked versions that have no LEDs, they are very hard to find. All those lights are not just a nuisance, they create a parasytic electrical load, that runs down your batteries. The fewer there are (or the more you can switch off manually), the better, when you are boondocking. John Davies Spokane WA

Bill - From my experience with the Ford 3.5 liter twin turbo and from THIS up to date review of actual MPG, you might be a bit optimistic on what gas mileage you will receive. With my Ford I get right at 22mpg when doing 65 mph on the interstate not towing. When towing my Ollie I get between 11 and 13 mpg averaging out in the low 12's. Certainly the Tundra in the sighted review is still new/not broken in, but, I don't think that the mpg will change more than 1 gallon at the most. However, I really do hope that I'm wrong about this because I've got my eye on a 1794. Bill

My husband is not quite 6', I'm much shorter at a bit over 5'4". The Elite has been fine for us for 14 seasons. Most of our indoor time is spent seated or sleeping,, anyway. Published height (interior) is 6'1", I believe, which is the same interior height as a 17' Casita, so @topgun2 offered good advice. The Casita does, however feel much more "cramped" to me, and all the cupboards are smaller. I think it's the carpet everywhere, and the casitawood doors that make the Casita feel smaller. (One of my best friends owns a Casita, and we've camped together many times, so I'mpretty familiar with the interior of her Casita.) The Elite bed is much smaller than the Elite II. The east/west bed is a full size (some people call it a double), not a queen, and the curve of the hull at the rear robs a few more inches for a bit, so it's best if the shorter person (me) takes the spot next to the hull. If you're a back sleeper, you may not find the shorter bed to be as comfortable, at probably 6'1" barefoot. @VBistro's idea of deleting the ac has merit, for either unit fitting your garage. We have a recpro houghton, replacing a 2008 Dometic that was much, much taller, but sometimes I think we should have just installed a vent instead, as we rarely use the ac. The rough opening for ac units and standard vents are the same.

Ghostrider10-32 I am 6’3 and my bride is 5’11 we momentarily stood in an Elite at the factory sales office and it was a complete no go for us. The Elite was just a little too cozy and lacked the room we knew we were going to need for our comfort level while traveling. You are very wise to view both before deciding. And yes, I agree never buy sight unseen. All the best with your choices!

I have a Elite II on order. I asked Oliver if they would install a different AC unit if I bought it and had it delivered to them. Answer: No. Some folks who post on this forum have replaced their noisy Dometic Penguin II units with Houghton/RecPro units themselves. But, a quick internet check revealed that the RecPro unit would only save you about 5/8" in height, not the 3" you need. So, I cannot offer a solution to your quandry, but can help you rule out AC replacement. FWIW, I am 6'0". When I stood in the bath of an Elite II we were allowed to tour, my head almost hit the bath fan handle that hangs down below the plane of the fiberglass ceiling. That is acceptable to me, but I decided then that an Elite I would not work for me (and the bed in an Elite I is too small to suit my wife and me, as well).

You will enjoy your Oliver. The solar is the way to go as mentioned in the above posts. Plus the solar keeps my AGM batteries charged during the winter months when my Ollie has gone to sleep.

We replaced the stock 11K BTU Dometic Penguin (A/C only) with the 13.5K BTU RecPro/Houghton Heat Pump (Cool and Heat) on our Elite II. Lower profile than the Dometic, lower amp draw and as has been mentioned frequently, less than half the noise level. Great to hear it will run on the inverter, although probably only on the lithium models. The price has gone up a bit from RecPro, but you can get 5% off if you sign up for their emails. https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/ Still the best $1300+ we have spent on the Ollie (besides the Ollie itself).

Invert a paper cup or bowl over the top of the 1/4” ball valve outboard from the Natures Head toilet. Otherwise you will poke yer eye out! Seriously, it comes out with a lot of force and will end up in your face. Don’t think “Hmmm, no worries, I will just crack it open a little” - that makes it WAY worse. Go ahead, ask me how I know😳 John Davies Spokane WA