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A couple of years ago I added a master switch to disable all of the leveling jacks as a theft deterrent. It’s probably difficult to move the trailer with all three jacks firmly lifting the trailer a bit. I moved the USB charging outlet from under the dinette and used that location for the leveling jack switch.

40s at night makes for good sleeping! We had several of those in Colorado this summer. Heading out next week and hope to have more. Mike

Jason Essary addresses this in his 2021 Oliver Elite II Delivery Walkthrough video. He states that code requires fusing within a certain distance from the power source, so Oliver installs fuses for all three jacks near the batteries. Jason also notes that the front (tongue) jack comes from the manufacturer with the fuse already installed on it, and Oliver chooses to leave it there, resulting in redundant fusing for that jack. See the video below at 1:36. So, Oliver owners get to check BOTH fuses should the tongue jack fail. Or, follow John Davies' suggestion and install an Anderson Power Pole in place of the fuse on the front jack.

Actually, if you ran the A/C for an hour off your batteries you'll pull out more than 100 amp hours. Realize those amps have to be replaced somehow. Solar would take most of a good sunny day at lower latitudes (think Southern Arizona rather than Northern New York) to do it. Running the generator is much faster but likely would still take a couple of hours. Why not just run the generator for an hour to power the A/C and get everything cooled down and call it done.

Good idea. Another approach with those bluetooth leveler devices is to use something like the curved Anderson leveling wedges and drive onto it on the clearly low side until the device reads as level (or close enough that you can finish the job with the trailer jacks).

There’s another camping humor thread that has some of the same funnies. Should we merge them?

No "secret" Ollie rally that I know of but I do remember when I saw my first Ollie in the wild. I waved like crazy and honked my horn - to no avail - but the look on the face of the lady in the car next to me was priceless. Guess she thought that I had lost it. Camping at 40 degrees in that little camper really shouldn't require much heat with one or two people inside it. The Oliver is going to be sooooo much more comfortable. Bill

Pardon the sort of off topic nature of this post, but the above was such a great segway that I could not resist. Here are three easy suggestions to make stealing our trailer a PITA: I use a high security lock on a bulldog coupler lock as others have suggested. This forces them to use our cables/chains as a connection method. I use a second lock to lock the cable hooks to the storage box. This makes them shorter and more difficult to use to attach Ollie to their tow vehicle. I pull the 30 amp fuse at the jack to again cause them to strain their back by having to lift our 600 + tongue weight. Combined so far they have not bothered with my trailer. 🙂 GJ

With today's smart phones, it is real easy to have a level measuring device that tells you how many degrees of tilt your trailer is experiencing. You then get out your leveling blocksTrailer Leveling Table.xlsx and use a hit or miss technique to get your trailer just right. Wouldn't it be nice to know the exact height you are going to need? It turns out you can calculate it based on the trailer's wheel base and the degrees of tilt. Using the tangent function, the attached Excel spreadsheet shows a table of required trailer elevations based on a user-specified wheel base, and the degrees of tilt. I printed it out and put a copy in my blocks case. Hope people find this helpful. My Oliver Elite 1 has a wheelbase of 67". The resulting table looks like this. Wheel Base (in) 67 Deg of Tilt Elevate (in) 0.2 0.23 0.4 0.47 0.6 0.70 0.8 0.94 1 1.17 1.2 1.40 1.4 1.64 1.6 1.87 1.8 2.11 2 2.34 2.2 2.57 2.4 2.81 2.6 3.04 2.8 3.28 3 3.51 3.2 3.75 3.4 3.98 3.6 4.22 3.8 4.45 4 4.69 4.2 4.92 4.4 5.16 4.6 5.39 4.8 5.63 5 5.86

Thanks for the info. But you may be overthinking it 🙂. First I assume you mean track width (side to side) and not wheelbase? Wheelbase is the distance between front and rear axle centerlines on a vehicle. Track width is the distance between the right side and left side wheels. And notice that you can use what’s referred to as the small angle approximation, where at small angles near 0 degrees, the SIN and TANGENT values are basically approximately equal to the angle, normally when the angle is measured in radians, but works close enough in degrees also with the Oliver width as the adjacent leg of the triangle, as evidenced in your chart. Even at 5 degrees, the elevation is 5.86”, only a little over a 1/2 degree of difference using the small angle approximation method, especially since the Lego type leveling blocks stack up in 1” increments. So I’ve just been using the Lego blocks as a “ degree”. I put my iPhone on the main aluminum tongue beam of the trailer at the front and use the Clinometer app. One degree out of level side to side means I will use one block, 2 degrees and I’ll use two blocks, etc. Once the trailer is leveled to within 1/2 degree that’s usually very comfortable as a “level” trailer, and is well within the limits for the absorption type refrigerators. 1/2 degree within level is waaay better than most folks that I’ve observed camping 🙂. And we are usually 1/2 a degree up at the front when camped to help drain the tanks.

Whenever our trailer is parked unattended for a period of time, I remove the fuse at the jack to make the trailer harder to steal. I think it is a good theft deterrent. Andrew

Steve, We too are waiting on our Oliver LE II and saw one yesterday going through the pass at Black Mountain, NC. We were heading east and they were westbound. Looked like faded blue graphics on the front (or light blue). We did park across from one out at Flathead Lake, MT two years ago but we were Airstreamers and they didn't seem too chatty. LOL. We are burning through 30 years of Marriott points on this trip, good thing too with all this rain in NC. Travel Safe, Brian

Snuggle up!🥶

Eight years for AGM batteries is a good life span. Two of my five year old AGM batteries were starting to swell and two were leaking because the tie down hooks were rubbing holes in them. I now have three 100aH Battle Born lithiums. I had to install an updated PD 4045 that was lithium capable and reprogram the Blue Sky controller. These new batteries have been remarkable. We’re going on two years and we are happy with the switch. Mike

My hull 218 has TWO inline yellow fuse holders for the tongue jack. One is at the back with that “gang of three” and the other is at the jack itself, which is a big gotcha, because either fuse could blow and if you did not know there are two, it would make you swear! The front one should be replaced with a simple single pole wire connector like an Anderson Power Pole. That is on my To Do list John Davies Spokane WA

Hello! I introduced myself once before but now I actually have my brand new Oliver Legacy Elite Hull #1241 “OSerenity” picked up 9/12/22 in Hohenwald. I live in central Ohio but plan to do extensive traveling. I’ve been having major problems with my lithium batteries so I’ll be posting separately about that. I’m excited to be a part of the Oliver family.

I just freeze stuff in freezer baggies, flat. Use a pan that fits the freezer. For my freezer, just baggie between two cookie sheets. They do look nice, though. I sometimes freeze lemon juice or other things in an old ice cube tray. It all works. When I was a child, we'd freeze corn and other veggies in 1 lb butter cartons, in thin baggies, tied off. No zip locks in those days . When frozen, remove the big rectangular cubes, and re-use the carton forms. Same idea. But, pretty much free. Very stackable.

Done.

I wouldn't have guessed that because you would still have to replace half of the connector anyhow if replacing the jack. 🙂 I was thinking the wires inside the jack could be easily disconnected and reused for the new jack but I may be wrong - I serviced the jack earlier this year but didn't pay attention to how the wires connect.

FYI … https://carbuzz.com/news/ford-accused-of-using-cheap-steel-on-super-duty-trucks John Davies Spokane WA

I wonder how across the board this is. If they indeed made super duty trucks less safe to save a few cents, then maybe they did this to all models. My pet peeve is corporate greed that for some corporations knows no limits. John

I apologize for the new-guy oops of posting a commercial link in my first post. To Steve’s point, it sounds like you currently have a Honda 2000, which can not support the momentary surge of the Truma AC compressor and adding the OTT installed EasyStart is not an option. Even installing one on your own, which is fairly simple, it appears it would possibly void the Truma warranty (this seems to be the case with many RV AC manufacturers). A possible solution, specifically to bbrault’s concern of not wanting to upgrade to a new generator, is the aforementioned external soft start. Without the link this time 😉, it is called a SoftStartUp. You can see my previous description. I have no affiliation of any kind with the company, just trying to help someone out based on personal experience with the product and a similar solution based on a similar need. The cost isn’t cheap, but would allow continued use of the Honda 2000, which is what we currently use as well.

Well, the idea was my husband Dave has a login & I have a login. Every so often we end up using each other’s. Yes, we are a couple and own Hull #55. Sorry for the confusion; will do better.

The answer appears to be: To give us something to ponder. 🙂

It is nice that we now have three options. Dometic, Truma and the Houghton. From experience I know that each owner has his/her unique perspectives. Some of them maybe: Group One: Hard of hearing and would perfer the Dometic with it's 80 DB rating on high and 75 DB on low fan setting. Group Two: Those who don't like talking to their significant other, or who wear head phones may prefer the Truma with it's 77 DB rating on high annd 60 DB rating on night setting. Group Three: Those of us who like to converse and sleep in a quiet environment the new Houghton AC is available with its 56 DB rating on high and 47 DB on low ratings. This summer we ended up chasing Katanga PIlot and his lovely bride across much of Alaska. I recalled his great posts about upgrading his Ollie (Hull 628) and asked if I could see their trailer. When I steped up into their OE2, I assumed that the AC was not running as it was to my ears totally silent. He smiled and said it was running at the High Setting. For the first time I realized that I could be a Group Three member. OTT may want to consider updating their video and A/C Options so the Group 3 folks can also be happier. 🙂 GJ PS: Here is a video that shows how they achieve their class leading DB numbers as well as their Owner's Manual: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zQkBDPOLW4 2010454645_HOUGHTONRP-AC3400LowProfileAirConditioner.pdf

Our first Oliver siting in the wild! I-71 Nortbound just north of Columbus, Ohio. Thursday, Sept 29 2:45 PM Orange graphics on the front. 👋👋 And then an hour later, we saw another one, also heading north on I-71, but a bit south of Columbus. We’re either of these someone on here? Y’all having a secret rally I’m missing out on? Meanwhile, we’re in our squaredrop at Caesar Creek State Park, where it is supposed to get to 40 degrees tonight. Brrr!

My guess would be that if you ever have to replace the jack, you don't have to cut the wire and you wouldn't have two fuses to hunt down if one of them blew. Brian

Thanks for sharing this tidbit John! Our hull #688 also has two inline fuses for the tongue jack. I have seen both fuses but I never really connected the fact that they were both on the tongue jack mentally, so troubleshooting may have frustrated and embarrassed me at the same time - especially with no electrical diagrams. 🙂 This is now on my To Do list as well. I was thinking of using a crimped butt connector with heat shrink tubing for this task. Any reason you recommend a single pole wire connector like the Anderson?

Kirk, did you choose the Truma a/c? We did. It's more $ but I hope it's worth the extra. That was quite the decision process as every decision was more $. John

Sure - but did you ever think about all those poor thieves out there that now have bad backs? 🤣

2019 F-150 3.5 EB, 10 Speed, FX4 Lariat: Houston to OR to AK and back over four months, 15,500 miles, 61 fuel stops (Love the 36 gallon tank!), 1,149 gallons of fuel (87 octane 10% ethanol) costing $6,097 USD, and ran speed limits minimum and almost always higher. Got 13.5 overall MPG. 90% of the miles were towing Ollie OEII. GJ

Your surge protector is under the rear dinette seat. That's just the box with the electronics. You also have an electronic readout screen inside the rear cabinet, streetside. It displays codes that mean different things. Check out the manual for the code definitions and other operating info. It seems to be a competent surge protector, and you won't need any others.

Welcome! I also struggled to understand all the different systems and how they work with each other. My confusion led me to think that things were broken when they actually just needed a button pushed or setting changed. Definitely call OTT service (they call that "opening a ticket") for any question, or put it up here on the forum. Like they say, there's no such thing as a dumb question.

Indeed - the jack fuse holder for my front jack is located right under the jack head at the front of the trailer. None of the three jacks have ever given me any problem but I do complete annual maintenance on them each Spring. Bill

Frank, I was just thinking about that fact last night and I believe you are correct. I seriously doubt there are any two Oliver's that are EXACTLY alike. And I guarantee that none of the first 100 or so are anything like each other.

For future reference if you ever need to change that fuse, here’s a pic of the fuse holders for the three jacks (the three yellow inline fuse holders). Located under the access hatch under street side (driver’s side) bed on our 2019 Elite II. I can’t guarantee that yours will be in exactly the same place since I’m starting to think that no two Olivers are built exactly the same, especially in the early years 😂.

You are correct in that this is a 30 amp slow blow fuse. It goes into the jack circuits and is common to every Oliver made so far. My advice is to order a few more, you'll eventually need them. These might not look exactly like what you pictured but they are the same and will work just fine. I'd shop around, you'll probably be able to find less expensive ones, possibly at a local auto parts store. As @dewdev suggested above, please add all your pertinent information about your Oliver and your Tow Vehicle to your signature. Since Oliver has made numerous changes in components and options over the years, when posting related to these, please list your Oliver’s year and model, and the brand of the component you have questions about. It will make the group’s responses much more informed.

Avalo: I think you would be best to contact Oliver Service Department (or open a new service ticket) and ask them your question as we do not know what Oliver you have. If you add to your signature, the year, hull number and model of your Oliver, and your tow vehicle information, it would help people to answer your questions in the future. To add this information to your signature: 1. Click on your name in the upper right corner. 2. On the next page, click on Account settings. 3. On the next page, on the left side of the page, click on Signature. 4. Fill in your information and click save. Add welcome to the Oliver forum

Actually, the opposite on the Xantrex. Priority is given to the AC loads. Any excess supply after that goes to charging the batteries, up to the max amperage draw you specify in setting #28. Your batteries charge faster if you have minimal AC loads. As your AC loads go up, battery charging current goes down.