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I never buy anything that I don’t absolutely, positively think that I MAY use one of these days.

NEVER MIND!!!! It suddenly occurred to me that because a red light came on when I tested the GFCI circuit, there actually was power to that outlet. I plug something into it and it worked! Plug something in outside and everything else works too! My problem was that I was relying on the microwave turning on and beeping at me when I turned on the inverter to indicate that all the systems were working. Turns out the microwave had come unplugged during travel and I didn’t have my usual signal that everything was working well. Sorry for the bother. This was definitely operator error!

My college classmate, the late great Dave Pickerell was known as the “Johnny Appleseed” of craft distilling. I lost track of him in the mid 90s when he left the Army and joined Makers Mark as their Master Distiller. A position he held for 14 years until 2008 when he left to do independent consulting. He worked with Whistle Pig and developed a whiskey for/with the Heavy Metal band Metallica. Dave passed in 2018 and left with him tons of wonderful stories and some pretty fine spirits enjoyed by Steve and Deb and prolly several other Ollie owners!

These are LED lights so more than likely it's the switch. Open the access plate in the cabinet above and reach in behind the switch panel to feel for the switch wires. Count the wire groups over until you've found the one for the kitchen light switch. Wiggling the wire connections slightly will sometimes cause the internal switch contacts to start working. Otherwise, push the switch out of the panel from behind and have Oliver send you a replacement.

I am focusing on safety and trailer protection. There's always the must haves and the wants. TPMS was expensive but I felt it was a necessity. That's my approach. The forum has been great for ideas of those must haves.

No trouble - glad you got the "issue" figured out. Many times "issues" can be solved in being able to see the forest for the trees or the trees for the forest. We get so involved in the bottom line problem that we simply do not step back and think through the events or systems that are involved and then take a step by step approach to get to the end. Certainly I'm as guilty of this as anyone! Bill

John, I applaud your approach to purchases. I don’t think we’ve yet had the pleasure of actually meeting each other. But those that know me and have seen our truck, probably recognized the tongue in cheek sarcasm of my post. When we meet, you’ll see what I mean.

Then most likely you just need new bulbs which are probably G4 type. I'd swap the bulbs with one of the working lights to confirm.

An update on our deformed overheated battery issue: The RV Tech who installed the converter a year ago & the batteries this spring worked with us last Thursday. Our primary question: What caused the problem? Is our electrical system safe to install new batteries without damaging them? We still do not have answers. He determined that the batteries, although bloated (and 1 has had a slight leak), are still intact enough to do testing of the system, and perhaps for other limited uses. We have spent the last 3 days observing what happens when we operate the electrical system 1) on shore power only, 2) on shore power plus solar 3) On shore power plus solar with the LITHIUM switch on. Can we recreate the problem? After 3 days of testing, we observed no problems, and have not recreated the overheating. A technician with Progressive Dynamics sent some documents, among them, on General Operation of this LI ready converter was this description: "....the OUTPUT MODE SWITCH sets the converter output to either a constant 14.6 VDC with the Charge Wizard disabled (switch in "LI" position) or a nominal 13.6 VDC with full Charge Wizard function (switch in 'LA' position). We have not observed any battery overheating from having the converter set to LI for more than 12 hours, including while the batteries were recharged from 70% to full. At one point it seemed possible that the Lithium switch was the source of the problem, but it doesn't look like it. Maybe it's the batteries, but we haven't seen others posting about problems with Brightway AGMS. We are frustrated, and out of time. And wishing we knew more about electricity. Normally when we leave for the winter, we put the Ollie in a barn plugged into shore power. Winter temps to zero and below are possible. Now our question is whether to leave these deformed Brightway AGM batteries in the battery tray for the winter, without shore power (because of not knowing what might happen), with the thought of trying in the spring to figure things out before installing new batteries. Or, do we pull the batteries now and dispose of them, so as not to risk damaging the battery tray? Does this make it harder to do more troubleshooting? Thank you for your advice.

Two big thumbs up on that TPMS! Good for you! Bill

OK - great - we are making progress! I agree with bhncb - the inverter is actually working and producing AC (alternating current or 120 volts). The GFCI he mentions is the next thing in the line to check. Easy to do if you have one of THESE or THESE. Lacking a tester then about all you can do is "trip" the GFCI and then reset the GFCI. This is done via the two buttons located on the front of the GFCI outlet. Make sure that you do this a couple of times - you should hear the GFCI "click" when you test it. Bill Bill

Load icon on the display indicates the inverter is outputting AC. When you test the GFCI under the dinette, are you sure it's actually resetting?

Unless the trailer is connected to an external power source with a cord, the transfer switch and the EMS aren't in the picture. You need to focus on the inverter. Check for 12V battery power at the input lugs, correct power settings, then AC output to/at the power distribution panel.

Blocking the rear jacks is prudent… if you have a major brain fart aka senior moment and drive away with the jacks down, they will hopefully survive without bending. I flag my gear shift with red surveyor’s tape whenever the trailer is hitched AND a jack is extended… John Davies Spokane WA

Just goes to show how lazy I really am! My six inch by 11 inch wood blocks are either placed on their sides (6 inches) on on their ends (11 inches) depending on how much room I have. Certainly as Mike points out - the less you have to extend the on-board jacks , the better - whether that be for leveling or for changing a tire. Bill

Depending on the situation - a single Andersen leveler may or may not be enough to get that tire off the ground. Therefore, Frank C's suggestion of carrying some form of "blocks"* (certainly these can be "lego" style that JD mentions)** in order to take lateral "pressure" off the onboard jack is worth considering. Also, as per Frank C - keep the Ollie attached to your tow vehicle and clock the opposite side. Try to find as level a spot to do the repair as possible - most roads and their shoulders are sloped such that if the flat tire is on the curbside it will require you to lift more weight than necessary. Finally, if there is any doubt then call for help. The couple of hours that you might save by doing the job yourself is simply not worth the possible negative outcomes. Bill *I carry both wood blocks and lego style blocks. The wood blocks can be had free either around your own workshop or by "scrounging". ** note - these lego style blocks can also be used for help in leveling the tongue when the throw of that jack is simply not long enough to get your Ollie level from front to back. Or when the Andersen's need a bit of extra help. Or when your outside grill can't find a level spot. Or when .....

I carry a large scissor jack (a military surplus HUMVEE jack with frame adapter, referenced in the other thread link that John posted above) and some pieces of 4”x4” lumber for raising the trailer for tire changes and wheel bearing maintenance. I lift the trailer with the scissor jack and then put the stabilizer down as a safety backup just in case. Tire chocks on the trailer wheels on the opposite side, and the trailer still hitched to my truck, so the trailer won’t shift at all while lifting. This setup has worked well and is very stable and safe when I have to work on the trailer. I prefer overkill when it comes to safety 🙂. And I don’t trust just using the stabilizers only to lift the trailer for tire changes after seeing how small the welds are on the stabilizer mounting brackets.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2202-how-to-fix-and-flip-your-blinds/ John Davies Spokane WA

Hi all, do I need to bring a jack along for the unlikely, but still possible, flat tire. My 2017 Ford Expedition has a jack. As I understand it, the stabilizer legs aren't meant for lifting the trailer, but only to stabilize it. I assume on a 2022 LE2 if I was to ride one tire up on an Andersen leveler that the other tire would remain on the ground. I am getting a few items in preparation for pick up in less than a month. I did buy a Proven Lock, yoke and Abus lock because I don't want to have this trailer stolen! John

After a Saturday of yard work and car washing, I have found myself with the need of a liquid pain reliever on Sunday afternoon. A Maple Cinnamon Old Fashioned, a rocking chair, and a perfect 70 degree South Carolina afternoon. A great way to ease away the achy muscles and enjoy the taste of fall in a glass. Obligatory Oliver content….We’re heading back to Mt. Pisgah on the Blue Ridge Parkway Oct. 19-23rd. We met Mr. & Mrs. Hokieman when we were there on the first weekend of fall.

Since we have a long, multi-day trip home to Idaho after we take delivery on November 10, I purchased (at John Davies' suggestion) a Safe Jack 6-ton RV Jack. It includes extenders that should enable it to reach the jacking points on the 2022 Elite II, from the ground. The kit includes a u-shaped frame adapter that I hope will fit the Elite II frame and enable a more secure connection with the trailer. https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/safe-jack-6-ton-rv-jack-kit-37m-rv6/_/R-SAJK-37M-RV6?ppcfon=1&gp=1&ecmp=s:google_15843829820___&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SC Shopping - Tires & Wheels - Performance Max&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhY-aBhCUARIsALNIC06UbEzgITJgaGQn_rPib0QBhxX7NiH5oVwxeWUM_qjnkqbeLh5T-FgaAsOiEALw_wcB Not cheap, but worth the peace of mind to me. I also have a set of the Camco Large Stabilizing Jack Pads, to provide a solid base for the Safe Jack, if needed. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Large-44541-Stabilizing-Jack/dp/B005BNZ9UM/ref=asc_df_B005BNZ9UM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198056825273&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9575626206363820960&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-438289870527&psc=1 If I have to change a tire, I plan chock the wheels on the side opposite the flat, jack up the side with the flat using the Safe Jack on a Stabilizing Jack Pad, then lower the stabilizers to provide additional support and stability.

We visited Makers Mark last year. The grounds and buildings are first class. The tour was great, the tasting greater, and the gift shop was fun!

I believe that was supposed to be “plastic bag”. Or just wrap the positive (red) wire’s terminal with electrical tape to prevent it from inadvertently touching something that’s grounded and releasing the white smoke.

For everyone posting at this point, please go back and read the entire thread to get you up to speed on what has happened so far. Definitely do not leave the batteries in the tray.

Mary: 1. I agree that it would be best to remove the bad batteries for the winter. You do not want leaking acid dropping onto the battery tray or the fiberglass underneath. 2) If you are going to replace the batteries with AGM's in the spring take the LIthium switch off, so you do not forget when installing new batteries. 3) For the winter without any batteries in the Ollie, be sure to temporarily seal the ends of the wires from the solar collectors. Put them in a good plastic bag. Even though in a barn, there may be enough light to allow the solar collectors to make a little bit of power.

If it was me, I'd not risk leaving the batteries stored in the Oliver. If those batteries leak it will cause one heck of a mess and expense in getting that cleaned up. With the winter temps you are looking at, hopefully there is a place where you can store the batteries (out of the Oliver) where they will not be hurt by zero degree temps. If there isn't such a place then I'd either give them away or trash them, find a neighbor who would be willing to store them for me, or (if you are driving) take them with you. Good luck! Bill

Oliver sells them for $3.15 each. I’ve lost 2 total in a year and a half. I ordered 6 spares last week.

The touch lights are flakey. Mine over the sink particularly so. You can remove the cover and see if the spring contacts are messed up, but I've not read of any true repair process. I got a few spares from Oliver Service. FWIW, they aren't crazy about them either.

Does your inverter have a GFCI outlet that feeds the AC circuit? Are you getting any output directly from the inverter? My inverter mimicked failure by having a faulty GFCI outlet that is the outlet to the AC system. The inverter was operating and thought everything was fine but the GFCI was not letting current flow. Had to replace the inverter due to an inaccessible outlet inside the inverter. Not a great design!

Most of these things are really not "necessary" for you to enjoy your Oliver. However, they do make the experience more relaxing and or easier or safer than it would be without them. They tend to save you time, energy, worry and simply make the whole camping/traveling experience more enjoyable because you spend less time working, thinking, worrying and more time doing what you really want to do. It will not be long now and your delivery will pass you by as if being played in triple fast speed. Try to resist buying anything but what you feel is necessary and then add later depending on your style of travel and camping. Bill

Actually it was JED above that suggested the Lego blocks and they are good to have on board. Having said this - I've only actually used my legos one time in the last seven years! Bill

There is a lot of past discussion about this. I’ve used the on board jack a number of times to raise tires off the ground for various reasons. I won’t get under the trailer with just the onboard jack but will change a tire. YMMV. Mike

Most travel trailers do not have disk brakes. There are several members of this Forum that consider our drum style brakes to be "garbage". However, over the years these drums and brakes have done the job in a simple, cost effective manner without major difficulty. If one keeps them clean and in good repair they should give you years of trouble free service. Having said this - there is little question that disk brakes perform better over a higher range of conditions as opposed to drum brakes. But, RV's are not sport cars or airplanes. Nor are they normally subjected to the same kinds of wear and tear as even our daily drivers. Bill

You need to have blocks, either wood or the yellow Camco lego style, You can raise one side up with the stabilizer enough for the tire to rotate and block the underside of the axle on that side if you feel like it. I don’t ever bother unless I am about to crawl underneath the trailer. I really doubt that your truck jack has enough lift without using blocks under it. FYI: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6549-recommend-a-heavy-duty-mechanical-scissor-jack/ John Davies Spokane WA

That’s not one of them

What about availability during natural disasters? How did EVs do in central Florida after Ian? Emergency responders and electric company responders needing to charge when the grid was down…. Maybe hybrids are a better solution, best of both worlds?

For those of us who are dog lovers, IKEA has rubber coat hooks which are normally hung with a screw but a command strip will also stick it securely to gelcoat. I put one up near the bathroom door as a coat/leash holder. https://www.amazon.com/Ikea-Hooks-Mounted-Hanger-Green/dp/B01G69TM84/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=1LYH4THAC7HLH&keywords=ikea+dog+tail+hooks+for+wall&qid=1664730182&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjk0IiwicXNhIjoiMi40NCIsInFzcCI6IjIuMzkifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=ikea+dog%2Caps%2C240&sr=8-9

If your tech installed the pd converter/charger, set for lithium, you should be talking to him/her. Settings are different for lithium, obviously. Lithium setting charges at a higher rate, not suitable for sla, la, or agm. As far as original batteries, most folks would be absolutely delighted to get 8 years from trojans. Checking settings is an install prerequisite. Please update your signature. We can better help you when we have info on uear, model and hull #. I am very sorry for your troubles.

I am fairly sure that is a piece of a cabin drawer slide. It is the same gauge and color.... . I don't know if Oliver trims any material off one end. I wouldn't worry about it, unless you just want to be reassured, in that case you can open a service ticket and ask. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6734-how-to-drawers-remove-and-reinstall-your-galley-and-end-table-drawers-fix-loose-or-stripped-screws-and-glue-the-bottoms-for-extra-strength/ I hope you did not step on it with bare feet.... John Davies Spokane WA

Ours - over the stove - glows faintly when it's very, very dark. If you close your eyes, you can't see it! Charlie.