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LE2 2022 Hull 806 here, I utilize a HFreight ramp I already had on hand....it works great to lift either tire off the ground. It has 6.5" of lift and is as simple as it looks. I use the ramp to take tires off when I grease the zerks. I hope I never have to use it on the side of the road, but I have complete confidence if I need to do so.

Make a check sheet. Follow the check sheet. To drain the water heater: Step one, open the T & P (temp and pressure relief valve). Step two, then remove the anode plug Failure to open the T &P valve first could cause that anode plug to fly out under extreme pressure. Some idiot just did that, and the anode flew out over five feet and soaked the unaware actor. Lucky that no one got hurt. (I should have known better, as I had written the check sheet. And in a former life I used to winterize over 40 units a year. And boy was that water COLD) Another note: the anode had a lot of holes in it. That is great. It means it is doing it's job. And the more holes means the more area exposed to the water. Over 6 years and don't have to replace it yet. Guess we are lucky and have used "good" water. Will only replace it when it is down to a wire and about 3 or 4 inches long. Some dealers like to sell tnem. Think Spring

I think you will win the post of the day with that one!

This project is to create an inlet port for Starlink cable into the attic where I put the Starlink router. I decided to repurpose one of those TV/Sat ports. Below are the pictures of the Furrion coax inlets. The left picture is the original and the right one is modified by drilling a big hole using hole saw. This is the waterproof RJ45 inlet port I got from Amazon. Next steps are removing old Furrion and enlarge the cable hole. To my surprise, I found a nice gift from the factory hidden under the seal. No big deal, I can add a little bit of 3M sealant to patch that up. Then install the RJ45 connector, left picture is from the outside, right is from the inside. This is what it looks like after putting back the cover. Next is to fish the cable from attic down to the belly near the furnace and pull it along the back and plug into the RJ45 inside port. You will have to cut the cable and install RJ45 male connectors. There are a few video on YouTube about this. Then plug it in at the RJ45 female at the inside of the inlet. The cable end from the dish will be on the outside. Plug the router in and enjoy fast Internet!

You can buy marine white gel coat on Amazon and repair it. Easy to do but the color will probably not be the same white…..

1st question - nope, you are good to go. Over time, dirt and grime will tend to collect in those chips and you might notice them more. 2nd question - Kind of like fixing paint chip on a car or truck. I've never been very good at it such that the "touch-up paint" doesn't show. One of the big problems in doing chip fix is getting the correct color - yes all Olivers are white but they are not all the same white. Or, you can wear those chips with pride. Kind of like a hard earned patina. 😉 Bill

Overland West is based at a county park and RV camping is in the existing campground. They also have a boondocking camping area which is for tents and small overland trailers. I'm guessing with the corporate buyout a few years ago and the expansion to multiple events, it's just more structured and likely dependent on the facility they rent.

@John E Davies John, We just got back from Overland Expo East and, when we arrived, we were surprised to see a 30' Airstream, a 28' Jayco, and a 45' Class A among many other "larger campers" all in the camping area after we read the same thing you posted. I tracked down an OE rep and asked what gives? He said, they essentially have an "Overlander Camping Area" and that is what they refer to in the FAQ. He said, if you were to fill out the form for camping, it asks how long your rig is and if you say it is over 15', they explain you cannot camp with the overlanders but they will accommodate you. I told him that didn't make ANY sense because if you read the FAQ you would never fill out the form to camp since it clearly states a 24' camper is not welcome. His final answer was, they would look into adding details to the FAQ page so more people would know you CAN attend with your trailer. The Oliver team got a tremendous reception, everyone seemed to really like the trailers. We plan to go to at least one or two Overlander Expos next year and will take our Oliver, we just have a longer walk to the beer tent. Brian

I just ordered two items mentioned on various threads here that are on the Prime Early Access sale. The Progressive Industries SSP-30X is 15% off, and the Kamenstein Perfect Tear Paper Towel Holder is about half price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015G2YYN0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024AKCTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The Squatty Potty folding step isn't on the prime sale, but does have a 20% off coupon, so added it to the order. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSR1DHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Alos not on the Prime sale, but added to my order is an adjustable water pressure regulator that's been linked here at 13% off with an additional 5% coupon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7JZTYX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There may be other items on the Prime sale of interest to Oliver owners, but these were the ones in my Oliver list. I hope this helps someone else save a few pennies.

Spotted an E II on I-81 southbound in VA MM 9 yesterday Monday at 3:50 PM. Li’l Ollie E I was northbound headed to Hungry Mother SP for 3 days. Hear the crickets and bagpipe in the distance! IMG_6501.MOV

These are so cute and 42% off! Camco Life is Better at The Campsite Nesting Bowl Set with Lids | Great for On-The-Go Lifestyles | Features (4) Durable Melamine Bowls with (4) Plastic Lids (53451) https://a.co/d/36eRx7V

Certainly noting wrong with those split logs and the rubber chocks at HF do go on sale several times a year for under $6.00. A number of owners claim to always check the power pedestal prior to plugging in anything with at least one of THESE outlet testers or a multi-meter. But, I must confess, I do not. Perhaps this is being lazy but I believe that the Oliver surge/circuit protector will take care of me and the electronics in the Oliver. Also it is because I rarely am at a place where there are pedestals - I boondock most of the time. Bill

For what it's worth, I plan to take an electrical multitester with which to check power at the pole, and have purchased an external surge protector that detects miswiring, low voltage, etc. There are differing views among Oliver owners regarding external surge protectors. See, for example, this thread:

Sorry. i missed this one. Based on your hull number I’m guessing you’ll only have three wires in the existing thermostat cable. Probably red, yellow, and green. Since the thermostat must be battery powered, pick any two of them to represent voltage from and heat call to the furnace. Looking at the furnace wiring diagram, the two wire colors chosen will logically be representing the blue/white wire going out to the thermostat R terminal and the solid blue wire coming in from the W terminal, respectively. However, since the installer will have to choose a remote-interface method for the thermostat, the method should be the deciding factor for which two of the three wire colors are most function appropriate. There is at least one, or maybe two, other threads dealing with Houghton A/C installations. Various How-tos for furnace thermostat control have been discussed at length in these. Maybe a more forum savvy contributor can provide some links to these discussions?

After a Saturday of yard work and car washing, I have found myself with the need of a liquid pain reliever on Sunday afternoon. A Maple Cinnamon Old Fashioned, a rocking chair, and a perfect 70 degree South Carolina afternoon. A great way to ease away the achy muscles and enjoy the taste of fall in a glass. Obligatory Oliver content….We’re heading back to Mt. Pisgah on the Blue Ridge Parkway Oct. 19-23rd. We met Mr. & Mrs. Hokieman when we were there on the first weekend of fall.

The chocks that come with my Rophor Camper Levelers. https://www.amazon.com/Rophor-Leveler-Version-Leveling-Non-Slip/dp/B09NJSXRRB/ref=asc_df_B09NJSXRRB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563823049430&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7131554787834866815&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1637492471943&psc=1 I figure they can do double duty: (1) part of the trailer leveling system when camped and (2) chocking the wheels on the side opposite from a flat when changing a tire. I also plan to follow wise counsel received on this Forum and leave the trailer hitched to the tow vehicle, set in Park with parking brake engaged, for added stability.

Cheers!

I like that solution. Simple, easy, cheap and quick.

There is a lot of past discussion about this. I’ve used the on board jack a number of times to raise tires off the ground for various reasons. I won’t get under the trailer with just the onboard jack but will change a tire. YMMV. Mike

What year is your trailer? I just went through this similar situation on my 2017. I found that the jack is grounded through one or two of the mounting bolts to the frame. I noticed that there was rust under two of the stainless washers and found out that Oliver uses steel star washers to cut through the paint on the jack. The shifting load may be moving the jack enough to lose the ground. I ran an actual ground wire to the frame to permanently fix the grounding issue. You may check the bolt tightness and/or add a ground wire.

Another excellent option for waterproof RJ45 port from Neutrik. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01L46SRCQ https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019LPMOTY

If you camp in humid areas where morning dews are common, wait until the trailer and your truck are wet - the bugs have soaked overnight (“hydrated”) and come off a lot more easily in the morning. John Davies Spokane WA

@SeaDawg We’ve had our Ollie custom detailed and we’ve also waxed it ourselves twice this season, we use Rockguard mud flaps and that helps but those bugs splat like paint and stick like glue!😬 Using elbow grease is an understatement. We do use microfiber cloths, I’m a big fan of microfiber cloths for inside and out.👍🏼

A hose, a bucket of water with car wash soap, a soft carwash brush, and microfiber cloths. And, topgun2's brand if elbow grease. Good microfiber cloths actually make pretty quick work of bugs, without a lot of work. (Our trailer is waxed twice a year. Prevention is the best policy, imo.)

Perhaps its getting to be a little late but thought and prayers are with all of you located within the path of this storm. Please be as safe as you can. For those not familiar with these storms, the predictions of the track of the hurricane is still not certain. This makes it difficult for those wishing to travel away from the major impacts. Bill

Cameron, predictable events like a hurricane give plenty of warning, just clear out promptly and head a couple of hundred miles inland. You definitely do not want to be near sea level. Tornados OTH are completely unpredictable. If a truly nasty storm system was approaching, I would hitch up, disconnect any hoses or cords, retract the awning, and pack everything for a really quick departure. I would also retract the stabilizers! With them down, the trailer can’t move around on the suspension, and any severe wind might rock it and drop it back down, which would break things. I do this routinely in wildfire areas, they can flare back up without warning, and I always try to have an emergency exit route different from the way I came to the site. I try hard to never camp at a short spot that won’t allow me to stay hitched. Super volcanoes (Yellowstone Caldera), wayward asteroids, widespread nuke attack …… let’s not go there. You would just be SOL. I hope you Florida members stay safe and secure. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

That is true but the charger/converter section of the Xantrex will still charge the batteries and pass 120v AC to the outlets when the inverter is turned off at the control panel and you're connected to shore power. We usually only power up the inverter section when we need to run 120v appliances off the batteries. I had never considered leaving the inverter section on while connected to shore power. I can see that could be useful if you have some sort of critical 120v equipment that you would want to ensure constant power to. OTOH, running the inverter when you do have shore power adds inefficiency and heat. You're basically taking 120v AC, converting it to 12v DC to charge the batteries, then inverting it back to 120v AC to feed the outlets. In special circumstances I can see value in that. Maybe you're running the air conditioner for a pet while you're gone and don't want it to stop if the shoreline power failed. Leaving the inverter on would be an elegant solution (provided you return before the batteries are exhausted). The downside, however, is increased runtime for your inverter - which might lead to its failure earlier than if you only ran it while boondocking. Just another way of looking at it.

Yes, we do leave it turned on. The Xantrex is a single unit that both inverts and charges. It switches back and forth automatically.

Thank you John. I am not too far from you in Ellensburg. You're right. The tube is wide open at the bottom. There is a plastic cover plate for cable management but I don't use it. I think it's mostly for permanent mounting option.

I finished the roof mount over the weekend. Luckily, it was super easy than I thought. The 2 holes of the Starlink short wall mount fit perfectly into the existing awning screws on my Girard. I am not very tall, 5'4", and need a ladder or climb the rear bumper to connect/disconnect the dish. I always take the dish downs when towing. Question: should I be worried about galvanic corrosion. I don't know what kind of metal the mount is but the awning bracket looks like a stainless steel? The installation manual, Short_Wall_Mount_Guide_Rectangular.pdf.pdf, doesn't say much about the mount itself.

Well, it finally happened. Got our first chip in the gelcoat. It's a tiny chip, about the size of the head of a pin, just below the beltline. First question: is it hurting anything (other than my pride)? On a regular trailer I'd be worried about water intrusion, delamination, etc. Second question: Easy fix for a tiny chip?

Okay! The batteries are removed! Two of those lunkers were fused together, a 140 pound mass that was worth something, just months ago! Thanks everyone for the advice. You're the best!