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I believe you have the 3000 Watt Xantrex Pro Charger with that package. The OUTPUT Current for charging is user selectable from 5 to 150 Amps. If you are running on Shore Power/30A connection then this setting is usually set for 150Amps. If you are running connected to a generator (not shore power) then what it delivers will depend upon the power output available from the generator. If

We had our bulb seal replaced by Oliver under warranty as it was not sealed to the roof properly. Oliver dropped the seal down a bit and drilled holes in the awning mounting brackets to allow water to drain quickly instead of puddle between the brackets. Now it works as it should. It does require up keep and periodic cleaning. Trade offs for sure. Patriot🇺🇸

@MobileJoy A quick google search - You could try ordering these. I would check your model numbers in any info you have for filters prior to ordering. Also shop around you may find a set for less dollars 💵 cabbage. here- https://www.rvonline.com.au/products/truma-filter-set-aventa Yikes this vendor seems to high. https://apollorvparts.com/products/truma-aventa-filter-set-pair Patriot🇺🇸

Few, if any, other manufacturer's dealerships will service an Oliver (or any other RV that they didn't sell) but most of the components in an Oliver are standard RV equipment and can be serviced by any RV tech. We use a local independent RV repair shop and there are mobile techs that will do it, too. For a damaged hull, others have used boat repair shops with good results.

HA, I tried the same exact thing, then the sun got blocked by clouds. Dryer it was. Hehe.

I did mine on a hot day. I left the EZ Gutter on my black tonneau cover for a half hour or so, very pliable after that. Mike

Wow, I'm pooped. Even with 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (08984), a 3M Scratch Brite sponge, and flat razor, it was a "BLEEP" to get the sticky residue off the hull. Thankfully the Bulb seal was only sticking well to half the trailer. Still took me over an hour to scrub-down and get clean. There's still grime to pressure wash off, but I think I will like it better than having the seal on the trailer. Time will tell. I have the new seal on the way, if I change my mind. I have already installed a EZE Gutter Guard over the door, just to keep the door seal, what's left of it, drier. I'm not sure if I will have time to pull off the door and reseal before the rally. Who wants to help? LOL 😜 I'm mean, it's not like raising a barn! 🙂 Pro tip: Putting the Gutter guard in the dryer for 15 minutes with some rags quickly softens up the rubber to make it go around curves easier. I had no sun that day.

You should be able to fill out the form on the "See an Oliver in Your area" page and that should get the ball rolling. Mid way down the page is a long blue button that says "Request to see a customer's Oliver near me" Fill out the form and submit. They will coordinate the process from there. We did this three years ago and it was as simple as exchanging a couple emails and picking a date. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/see-an-ollie/field-visit-request/

Yes Oliver now drills awning brackets to mitigate the pooling and facilitate drainage. They drilled ours with what I measure as a 7/16 hole and here is a pic-

The Truma Aventa filters are washable plastic grids. I have removed them, but have not needed to use the air conditioner enough yet to need to clean them. They are reusable.

A harder tire will have less sidewall flex and, therefore, run cooler than a tire that has less air pressure and thus more sidewall flex. Heat in a tire is one of the main causes of failure. Additionally, higher tire pressures are required for increased load on the tires. So, if you want to carry the maximum load that a tire was designed for then you must also inflate that tire to its maximum tire pressure as recommended for its manufacturer. Bill

What else could go wrong? 😅 Adapt and over come is the flavor of the day! Always try and have a back up plan. One is none and two is one! “Whatever can go wrong, will go wrong” into something that only YOU can do something about. You did well! Patriot🇺🇸

The way I look at it (for both my vehicles and trailer) is that there is a mileage (wear) OR time limit on tires. The BF Goodrich’s on the Oliver had plenty of tread after 5 years and over 60K miles. Some small cracking could be seen if I looked close enough. Same on my Audi S3, the tires had lots of tread left after 5 years (but only 25K miles) but I replaced them too, not cheap. Peace of mind is more important to me than squeezing another year or so out of older tires. That’s just me, YMMV. Exactly. I don’t either. Mike

I took ours off 4 or 5 years ago. I was tired of trying to keep it clean, there was always a build up of stuff behind it. We’ve found that during normal light rain, sitting under the awning is fine without it. I have the EZ gutters so I’m not too worried about water running down the side. Mike

There have been a number of owners that have taken that seal off and left it off primarily due to having difficulty in cleaning the area on the roof behind it. Obviously, if you remove and then don't replace it, there might be a fair amount of water that will run down the side of the trailer when it rains. This just might obviate the use of the awning during a shower. For what its worth - I've still got the original seal up there, have not had difficulty keeping the roof behind it clean and have enjoyed a few beverages while sitting under my awning during a light rain. Bill

It will probably be fine as a static load, just don’t hit any potholes or washboard. Check with the factory, I bet they say no. Maybe 10 gallons sitting on an extra piece of 3/4” plywood… John Davies Spokane WaaA

Unless you have FLA batteries, you’re putting an additional 160 pounds on the already heavy side. The floor will easily hold up the weight.

The rate of charge going into the battery is dependent on the amps available. The best that 340 watts of solar can do is about 25 amps. The onboard charger is 45-150 amps depending on the type you have.

The batteries can actually take a charge faster than some small generators can provide. That's why you may need to adjust your converter settings to avoid overloading your generator. Either way, they charge very quickly on a generator or shore power.

I just ordered from Oliver, what they call the Bulb seal (18 ft ~ $66). That large rubber-like material that goes directly under the awning mount/housing. My bulb seal has been leaking in some areas, especially over the entry door; and since the door needs resealing to the hull it's time to replace. However..... I'm still not convinced I want the bulb seal there at all. Someone on the forums mentioned they removed it due to the gathering of tree junk. I'm considering taking my old one off and seeing what I think of it. Yesterday I did place a small EZE Gutter Guard strip over my door frame, to divert heavy rain water from hitting the top of the door frame. Not sure I'll get to resealing the door frame before the rally. I'm not retired, dang it.

Sounds like a mis-communication. We have shown our Oliver multiple times through the “see an Oliver” program to potential buyers before they placed any order or made any down payment. Some did end up ordering a new trailer afterwards, one couple didn’t want to wait for a new one and found a used one after visiting ours, and others didn’t buy one.

Will do. It will make me feel good after ordering new tires for Wayfinder. 😞

@Patriot - All good points, brother. It was a random thought... It definitely wouldn't look too red hot, for sure. Thanks for sending pix of the weep hole drill out of the awning brackets. I'd like seeing the sizing and placement of the holes by the OTT maintenance team. Thanks, and cheers!

I just tilt the Oliver nose up a little and just use a strong nozzle water hose and honestly just about everything washes out after a few rinses. A battery blower would work as long as the leaves are dry. Most dry debris flys off the roof when under way. My little HF battery powered blower. A great little toy, I mean tool. The broom is retired as this travels well and is fairly quiet. Just go buy one.

Maybe give a quick call to Mike Sharpe at Oliver Service, I feel sure he could assist you with ordering replacements. Or where you can order them? I don’t think Oliver stocks filters from the new Truma, great question! Patriot🇺🇸

Received my new awning seal from Ryder at OTT Parts Team a few weeks ago, will be installing before our road trip later this month. I like the idea that @Patriot mentioned about OTT service team dropping the seal down slightly and drilling weep holes in the FIAMMA mounts for drainage. We will also install the EZ Gutter over the main hatch and windows... brilliant!

Interesting all this came up again because just recently I became aware of the torque values for my F150 pickup. Ford states in the manual 150 ft lbs of torque. Given that the size of the Oliver LE2’s have about the same size wheel and tire configuration why wouldn’t 120 ft lbs be more accurate. There is barely any difference in weight either between the two assuming a fully loaded trailer. And as for tire pressure I have always ran mine between 45-50 with no issues and still on the original tires. What would be the advantage if any running them at their max rated pressure. Seems like it would be a bumpier harder ride for the contents of the trailer.

I ditched the original sleeved lug nuts and replaced them with solid stainless steel ones.

This is applicable to lithium batteries only.

The generator feeds the converter through the shore line. The converter converts the 120 VAC to DC to charge the batteries based on the settings in the converter. The solar panels also provide DC power to the batteries through their controller. The two systems supplement each other. As the battery level of charge rises they lower their charging current until the batteries are charged. The final say is the Battery Management Software in the batteries themselves. If they aren't happy with the amount or type of charge they are receiving from those 2 systems they shut down charging.

😁I am the wife. I'd be happy to give lessons on a microwave-free life, but many are disinterested. I rarely use my home microwave, so it is easy for me. Back in 2008, my husband really wanted the convection microwave, (I didn't), so we got it. It eventually died, probably from lack of use... Since we almost never h ad power, the microwave was useless. We now enjoy a little pantry cabinet created from the microwave cabinet. Everyone's needs and wants are different. Our trailers can accommodate them, with whatever accessories buy. Our lifestyles, and camping styles, are different, but we can all work together on solutions.

And I'd have no wife 😜 Charlie.

In our experience of 15 years with the ollie, using solar as our primary choice of charging, but using a genset when we have a string of crappy days, I'll offer this: We use the generator (in our case, 2008 Elite I with only two agm 105 ah 12v batteries) in the morning hours, when most depleted, so the genset is charging in "boost" or "bulk"mode, most efficient for the gas running the generator. Once the on-board controller throttles back to "absorption", and definitely if we take a walk and its in "float", if weather is halfway decent, we shut down the generator and let the silent and efficient solar panels finish the job. The next modes step down, and solar works fine. Actually, better than a genset, at low amp charging. (Side note: if we have to charge a tool battery or something else, we'll do that while the generator is running.) This has worked extremely well for us. A few notes: we have no microwave. We have no inverter. We camp, not rv. We do have an electric dc fridge. But, the principles would be the same. If you use a lot more amps (microwave, toaster oven, electric coffee pot, etc) you may need to run a generator at night, for a bit, as well, even with lithium. The cool thing about lithium batteries is that they actually "like" the middle charge range. Agms want to be topped off every day. Lithium doesn't need that. You'll find your sweet spots, whichever batteries you have. With agms, I try to not go below +/- 75% charge, as I know that extends the life of my (arguably expensive) batteries. With lithium, I'd be ok going down to ten or 15 per cent , but I'd try to keep them in the mid range (30 to 85)

The value was reduced to 110 ft-lbs GJ, thanks to your previous communications to Oliver. See link. Wheel Torque 2023 That snip from my older post was taken out of context. It was a direct quote from the 2021 manual. I personally have been running 100 ft-lbs since Day 1 with never a loose wheel nut.

Btw, @Patriot, I was unaware of the veteran discount at Northern tool. Thanks for that info.

Years ago, "everyone" thought we "needed" a 3000 watt generator, so we bought one. Fortunately, I found an almost new used unit, at a great price, (probably 70 per cent off new.) The 3000 has never gone camping with us. The Yamaha 3000 has wheels, but it's ridiculously heavy, at +/- 150 lbs, even for the two of us, to lift in and out of the truck bed. (We used our atv ramps to pick it up and put it in the garage.) It does not owe us a dime, however, as it has saved our bacon (and frozen turkeys, other food, etc), plus our neighbor's, and charged cell phones and sparked the home gas water heater, in a number of power outages here on Florida's west coast. (One hurricane left us for a week with no power.) I know a few people have heavy gensets mounted to the tongue, but we didn't feel that was a good option for us with a single axle 2008 Elite I. So, we normally charge with a Honda 1000, which I can easily lift with one hand. Still works great, at age 15, with regular maintenance. If we "upgrade", it will be the smallest Honda that can do the job, and still allow me to lift and start it. If we need ac (almost never), we seek out a campsite with power. We also have a Westinghouse 2000-something that we bought to charge and run power tools when we built a pole barn on our camping property a few years ago. Surprisingly quiet, and it ran our small 9500 Houghton, on a test. Though it's a nice unit, I don't think it has quite as pure a sine wave as the Hondas, and of course, it's a bit louder, but not obnoxious. (5 per cent, I think, and I believe my Honda is 3 per cent THD, much like home electricity. ) Harmonic distortion is definitely something to think about, with all the electronics, especially in the newer trailers. Good luck in your decision. I'm obviously in the camp of the lightest unit to do the job, 95 per cent of the time.

Finishing up a week of spring turkey hunting in the Montana badlands. Endured a couple of nights at 24° F. Our Ollie performed flawlessly. Couldn't be happier.

A review of the online Standard Features manuals shows they switched from a PD4000 series to a PD9200 series converter/charger in 2020 models. For trailers with solar options, they include a Xantrex PRO 2000 or 3000 depending on the option. My 2021 EII has the Solar Basic option ( no longer available) with no inverter. My converter/charger is a PD 9260C, which is a 60A charger. It is a separate unit, the 12V fuses & 120V breakers are in a separate PD panel, not all-in-one like the older PD4000. It is lithium capable with the purchase of a $20 plug-in pendant, which I have but rarely use. Progressive Dynamics offers model 9160AVL, which is a 60A lithium charger, sells for around $300.

Yes, the Xantrex Pro is THE charger for the Lithium set up. Also, it is a 150 amp charger versus the 65 amp charger that PD provides with the standard charger. From what I was told, the PD is removed on models that have the Xantrex. Not sure if that is the case but it does make sense. Xantrex Pro 3000 Video The new Victron MPPT Solar has a 50 amp capability, still using the 2 x 200 watt panels. Brian

Yes they do. I called the factory yesterday to see how the batteries are charged on the new trailers. They said it was the same set up as it always was. This is where your 120V breakers and 12 V fuses are. Apparently, the Xantrex inverter/charger comes into play also as it functions as a combination of an inverter, battery charger and transfer switch in one complete system. When AC power is available, the inverter/charger recharges the house batteries. It also allows any surplus AC power to pass through and power downstream AC loads, such as a television set or microwave oven. When AC power is disconnected, the unit inverts DC battery power into AC electricity. Trailers that have a front generator hook up port in addition to the standard side port also have a transfer switch to determine whether the outside power is coming from a generator or from shore. The default is generator. It would take some testing to see how the two transfer switches act when used together.

Have you considered a Dual-Fuel Inverter Generator? I have a 2500-Watt Dual Fuel Inverter with CO Shield® and it delivers nicely on the power but is still very compact and quiet. Brian

Sales told me that the folks at Truma had said that if the MICROAIR Easy Start system was installed in one of their AC units that the warranty would not be honored. This is the reason that it is not offered as an option. I copied this from this Site: Will My Generator Run a Truma Aventa RV Air Conditioner? You’d need a 3,000 Watt generator (or a 3,000 Watt inverter) to operate either model of the Truma Aventa. This is due to the power surge required at start-up. We have no information as to whether the Truma Aventa is compatible with something like our Microair EasyStart 364 to handle the initial surge, but that would be a good question for Truma!

Lily Bay, Greenville, Maine on Moosehead Lake is always a favorite...

If you haven’t been to Amber Falls Winery near Hohenwald, you should go. Good wine, friendly folks. We camped there with HH for the first time this year although we’ve been visiting and buying their wines since the fall of 2015.

Went down to the Wind River Range in Wyoming the 3rd week of July and just now finishing up with photos from the trip. We camped one night the Grand Canyon of the Snake River which by the way is a drop dead gorgeous canyon with some nice USFS campgrounds although close to the road. From there we headed down to the Green River Lakes area in the northern part of the Winds. Had crystal clear blue skies and no fire smoke until the last day. Great hikes beautiful country just an awesome trip. For anyone inclined to take this on be forewarned there is 20 or so miles of very rough gravel road to get back in there, no cell service for at least an hours drive out. Figure about 15-20 mph going in with a few patches of smoother gravel for a few but not many miles. To provide an idea of how rough the road is, we shook 3 of the window frame shades of their mounts, the solar controller in the basement became dislodged from its installment screws, one of the cables for the pins that latch the rear bumper broke loose. Anything not tied down was strewn all over the camper. I'm probably forgetting a few things. Trudi and I had briefly visited this place some 40 years ago and its been on my bucket list ever since. Highly recommended, I would go back in a heartbeat. Regarding true boon docking there are many places along the Green River to accommodate and initially this was our plan until talking with another family who tried it for one night but the bugs and ants were so bad they couldn't even get out of their camper, a Lance in this case. With those words of encouragement we opted for the USFS campground @$6 per night for the geezer crowd. By any measure the vast majority of campers here are tent campers, and the new rage of clamshell tents that carry on top of trucks, suvs and fold out into a top mounted tent. There are two loops here, one small higher the other a bit large and closer to Green River Lake. No reservations, its far too remote and in fact never saw a ranger and there was no camp host at all for the entire week. No problem at all getting a good site and most people only stay one or two nights. BTW the lake and campground itself are approximately 8,000 feet elevation give or take a few. Posting a few quick and dirty iPhone photos below. Green River camp above. Most of the sites here are very large probably between 1/4 or perhaps 1/2 an acre on average. Campsite at the Grand Canyon of the Snake River. Green River Lake sunrise with Sqaure Top Mountain. Preferred a b&w for this one. Beach at the far end of Green River Lake, about a 2-3 mile hike one way, we did the complete loop around with a few other excursions for a total of about 8-9 miles View from the west shore of the lake returning from hike up Clear Creek Canyon Clear Creek approximately half way to the end of the canyon where a natural bridge crosses the creek. Another view of Square Top on the route out from Clear Creek. I was nursing a plantar fasciitis one one foot this day so the almost 12 mile hike just about did me in. We had a few outrageous sunsets accompanied by a rising near full moon. Thanks for looking.

We had our first boondocking experience this past Friday when returning to Texas from picking up our Oliver. It was a short overnight stop through Harvest Hosts (our first time using them) at Melrose Plantation in Melrose, LA. Just parked in their parking lot and the next morning after breakfast we took a tour of the plantation before heading home. It was a fun stop with lots of history. And look at the size of the 150 year old trees with resurrection fern growing on them.

Big Bend - one of the gravel pit campsites down by the Rio Grande

Mount Lemmon, north of Saguaro in Tuscon, our first trip with the Ollie

This is at the campground at Great Sand Dunes NP in Colorado. Easy walk to the sand dunes.

This is Franklin Mountain State Park outside of El Paso. There are only 6 sites.